Adoom

Members
  • Content count

    523
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

328 Excellent

About Adoom

  • Rank
    Post Fiend
  • Birthday 21/07/81

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Converted

  • Local Area
    Wellington
  1. Make that both rear quarter windows are rusty at the bottom. Jeez, the fuck is up with these factory gaps between the panels, it's like they designed it to leak into the guard if the mastic stuff ever failed.
  2. Some clown hot glued the rear parcel shelf in cause the clips were missing. I scraped it off without too much damage. But the long thin metal bit that goes behind it was rusted through at both ends. Anyone got a good one? Found some rust at the bottom of the left rear quarter window. Took it out to find a decent hole and a small hole on the outside that had been bogged over without bothering to remove the window first. Repair looks to be within my welding skill level, but part will be outside, so it will need to be painted. I wanted to avoid painting it for a while.
  3. I've looked at some like that. But that is so basic, I'd be better off making my own. You also don't get any way to turn separate vents off/on. The current setup has: Large central dash vent. left dash vent right dash vent left windscreen vent right windscreen vent left rear vent (can't be very effective, could remove) right rear vent (can't be very effective, could remove) Venting to the foot area(no ducts, just a big hole in the side) I'd want to retain at least 1-5. I thought of making a box up for the original long heat exchanger but run two fans that I can control separately. One fan is ducted to windscreen for super demist. The other fan is ducted to all the other vents.
  4. Nar. Engine transplant is easier. Just needs brackets, all the connector bits like hoses/wires are flexible so stuff doesn't really need to line up. Heater is big fucking plastic thing full of flappy doors to make hacking it up not really feasible and vents in the wrong place but you can't move them because flappy doors won't work right and mechanical levers for flappy doors that you need to actuate somehow. I think my options are: Fix existing heater maybe try upgrade motor to insane brushless mode. Get better condition std heater maybe try upgrade motor to insane brushless mode. Replace with something really basic that only does the windscreen. But then I am left with useless vents in the middle and on either side of the dash. Remember I don't want this to be another racecar.
  5. I have considered both of these things. If I recess the firewall, I'll have to change the heater because it won't fit anymore. But retrofitting a modern heater to the existing inlet hole and vents seems like it could be a lot of work.
  6. The heater is pretty rusty too, and full of crap. Jeez it's heavy. Anyone got a good one they don't need before I try fix mine?
  7. Removed the dash and the heater and that horrible foam rubber pad thing. Found the heat tap is seized, not sure if on or off, so had been disconnected. Also, I think I will need to use that whole patch panel. All the rust is in that one panel as far as I can see.
  8. Makin' a patch panel from a firewall I got sent. I dunno how much of it I will end up using. The pile of bits I spot weld drilled off. The hotwire I got from @pusherman after paint stripper and water blaster and 400 grit. The original coating and lacquer are removed, but there is still a bit of the blue paint that was all over it. WTF was that paint, it's nearly indestructible?? Still need to scrub a bit between the spokes to get rid of any loose stuff then mask it off and repaint the black bits.
  9. I've seen that before, apparently you cannot use urethane bushes with that kit as it relies on the give in the soft rubber bushes to work. We might be getting a bit OT for sheepers discussion thread....
  10. AFAIK early nissan stuff did, like S11, maybe S12, deffo 510. Improving the Triumph setup is still an option. I'm trying to find options to do away with the funny suspension angles the semi trailing arms do when they move. Moving the arm up causes increased negative camber and increased toe out. Reversed for moving down.
  11. I was thinking more along the lines of not using a shit ton of fuel just cruising, rather than the engine's capacity to rev.
  12. How do you find that ratio for revs in 5th at 100kph? I plan on putting a 1UZ and W57 into my Triumph 2500. <-- I have all these bits already. With my 195/60/14" tires I worked out I'd need something like 3.3 to 3.5:1 to have 2600-2750rpm at 100kph. I'm exploring options for the rear end because the existing semi trailing arm setup is said to be craptastic. To put an S13(same as R32, I think) rear end in I'd have to narrow it about the same as you have. I'll drop the existing rear suspension some time and offer up an S13 subframe I have access to, to see if it's remotely feasible. I suspect the front upper arm mounts will require far too much hacking of the floor.
  13. What ratio is the diff, I couldn't find it? Is it the standard ratio for an R32 GTR R200 LSD?
  14. I have a good center console on the way, thanks anyway.
  15. Just done some quick spreadsheeting. Ideal ratio are between 3.3 and 3.5. This gives me 100kph at 2600 - 2750rpm in 5th. Internet seems to think the 1UZ likes this rev range at 100kph.