Adoom

Members
  • Content count

    448
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

233 Excellent

About Adoom

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 21/07/81

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Converted

  • Local Area
    Wellington
  1. I found an old icecream wrapper in one of the backseat ash trays. I think it's 80s or 90s. I ripped and hacked the foam rubber mat off the firewall because I knew there was run under there. It all looks fairly simple to repair with the engine out(and the mat/stuff under the dash). Anyone got a good firewall they can cut out and send me to make patches with?
  2. So I found this bag in one of the rear guards behind some trim... It's like wool, or batts or something. It's about 40cm long... Um, wtf? Some kind of anti vibration?
  3. And the glass and chrome parts from the interior boot light. And the brake pressure differential switch, the terminal has snapped off mine.
  4. I replaced the broken speed cable with one I bought from witors. I replaced the wiper blades and cleaned the inside and outside of the windscreen. I made a shopping list of parts I need or want: Steering wheel Number plate lights for bootlid Set of front window winders One of the screws that holds the wooden dash panel. Sun visors A center console that is not cracked. Seatbelt hook from B-pillar The vinyl part of the dash with no/less cracks, if such a thing exists.
  5. I bought an oil seal the "same" size and got Brian at howatt to shorten my propshaft. I went to go install them this morning and the seal is not a friction fit, it goes in easily and can move around. Damn. It must be only 0.1mm smaller than the original. So, do I just silicon it in, or do I go to Nissan to get the oem seal and hope it's a tighter fit?
  6. So I FINALLY got around to removing the badly leaking gearbox tailshaft oil seal. It was a bit of a bitch to lever out with the flat head screw driver. It turns out the propshaft is too long, so at some points in the suspension travel, the shaft of the yoke is thrust, right to its base where it is has more girth, and this has reamed out the seal in the gearboxes tail end. The weld at the base of the yoke shaft has also 'machined' a bit of a step where the seal goes in. The alloy casting will need to be cleaned up a bit and a new seal should go in fine. I'll get the propshaft shortened. It was probably borderline too long since I had it made and since then it's been reshelled, had a new gearbox mount and adjustable trailing arms installed. I could probably get myself a bit more clearance using the adjustable arms, but I'd rather shorten it to be safe. A well reamed seal.
  7. Second night of literally living in my shed. Last night was quite warm. But it's been raining since this afternoon with a southerly, so 14 degrees. Upside is my cars and tools are in my bedroom I fixed the horn, it worked when I picked it up but then never again. Someone had spliced in their own separate wire and online fuse from the horn relay to the horn and unplugged the original wires... their splicing/ soldering was so shit. I ripped all the extra crap out and proceeded to trace the wires back to find why the original wiring wasn't working. Pretty sure it was just a spade connector that needed cleaning up. Horn works now, "parp parp". I tried to remove my center console to glue up the cracks, but couldn't work out how to remove the choke, fan, cig knobs. I can unscrew the... bezel nuts? but the knob is too big for the hole and I don't think lube will help in this case.
  8. I remembered to check where the WOF was done. The sticker says MS1224 541 Rosebank Road Avondale. Which seems to be Avondale Tyres & Car repairs.
  9. Yesterday I discovered a long hose attached to the thermostat housing... It was just hanging out on top of the cross member and is blocked off at the far end. It's at least a meter long!!!! Why you no cut it shorter Barry?
  10. Well I made it over the hill no problem. The horn has stopped working... I'm sure it worked when I got it, made a kind of paaarp noise. Another thing to add to the "And this is broke" list.
  11. Bled the brakes again tonight using the Kyteler Hemi method and followed the books advice and did slow pedal strokes. Pedal seems better. I will drive it over the Rimutakas tomorrow to put it in the new shed. Taking a fire extinguisher..... not positive the fuel leak is completely fixed. Looking forward to having it on the flat and dry.
  12. Right rear is furtherest away from the master in this case. The line to the back goes down the left of the car to a 3 way union, then over to the right wheel. I have a one man bleed kit, I think there is a one way valve in it. The bottle is laughably small, a few pumps will overflow it, so I use an old brake fluid bottle. But I will try the open nipple, pedal down, close nipple, pedal up, repeat method. I would normally use the method kyteler and hemi use.
  13. Car is on a slope with the arse at the bottom. But when the rear is jacked up, it's more or less horizontal. Attach bleed hose to right rear nipple. twist nipple open. The assistant pumps the pedal, possibly too furiously, until I say "stop" and the pedal stays down. twist nipple closed. periodically check reservoir level. Repeat on left rear, then front right, then front rear.
  14. It's got "automatic" ratcheting adjusters. The shoes seem to be snug inside the drum. I've manually adjusted them with the drum off until I can 'just' get eh drum back on. If I press the pedal, then press the pedal again, it feels better. So mechanical slack, or air? I think I will bleed them again.
  15. I got some taper nuts for the spare steel wheel rather than use the shank nuts from the alloys. I also tried the remove handbrake cable, then pump brakes to get the shoes to adjust, then reattach the handbrake cable method to see if it helped with the pedal height. I don't think it made a difference. Why is my pedal so low??? I also discovered that when I put the compressor air gun on the master cylinder reservoir to try force the fluid into it, when I couldn't get it to bleed.... it was too much pressure, woops and cracked the reservoir a little at the base so now it leaks a tiny bit. Fortunately I have a spare. I sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner into the float valve and spun it around in its seat a bit. Seems to have stopped leaking, for now. I ordered a new valve and seat. $32!!! They are $10 in UK! But then the other one looked like it was leaking... but I think it stopped.