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77magnum13hundy

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About 77magnum13hundy

  • Birthday 12/20/1982

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  1. Loving the fuel tank shenanigans proper design and thought out... not that you do anything less than awesome
  2. So chipping away I've found that having the options to sand blast the nooks n crannys works well and reduces the amount of dust and sand everywhere. On surfaces with underseal the petrol and rag method seems to be most effective. Followed by wire wheel or strip disk. I've started to tackle drivers real wheel well in this episode.
  3. Yeh any areas I'm able to get at are being dealt to with strip disc on grinder and wire wheel, the hard to get to areas as in pics are getting blasted. Have a heat gun and scraper and a butane torch to help get shmuts off as it clogs strip disc on the thicker areas of tar or underseal. Not in a big rush so sections only will soon have it sorted. To prevent rust im coating with crc weld thru zinc paint.
  4. OK the P rating says that P1 is basic P2 is OK and P3 is the best... il check on the web what else is available but yeh thanks for looking out.
  5. Oh thanks for that, I was using a painting mask Norton branded which should be suitable? I do use a normal Fibre mask for grinding smut as black boogers accumulate...but yeh I can see a lot of airborne dust hovering after I've done a bit and wait for compressor to build up again.
  6. So time to attack the underside so I looked into how to do this. Acid dipping was going to be 1st option a place nearby but that was no longer around and closest place was tauranga with a 6 month wait? Next plan was sand blasting, the entire shell quoted was 3k so out of my budget. I decided to just go cheap and learn along the way. I first got a sandblaster unit from super cheap. For sand I bought a 10kg bag from bunnings. I fired up compressor and it was a fail. Sand would not flow, it was damp... adding water to it was a worse idea it blocked it entirely. I undid hose and blew it out. So wet sand and water was a no go. Dry sand only. Tipped the entire bag out on clean concrete floor to dry, then sifted it into bucket ready for launch. I then made slight increases to the diameter for sand input and the air hole. Since this stuff goes everywhere I put a tarp up and wore a mask and welding helmet for protection. Had the fan blowing dust outside and got cracking into it. These are the 2 sides as a comparison, check out the horrid welds? These are factory or before my time...
  7. The end result was something that could only be described as it worked. The back end would be fixed bolted to some steel plates sandwiched between shell. The front needed to have a pivot so could lower to axle stands for removal later. Here are the results.
  8. After that it sat for a while and I ignored it in the back of my mind I needed to keep going even if it was just a small thing to contribute. I went to pick a part found a Silvertop engine and got it stripped out for bits I needed. The rest of the engine could be used for a rainy day such as fitting a 20v to my 4af spacio but I digress. I saw a panel beater guy down the road who I wanted to farm the work to, he had someone's shell outside with the tarp half hanging off so didn't think much of that place. Another guy came to my place and yarned for 2 hours about what we could do but he's on the shore and I ain't keen to ship it that far. We basically decided I would do the work and it went from me farming the work out to me committing to proceed myself. Dang. Shit. OK. Supercheap had deals on engine stands so grabbed 2 of them. I bought some 50 x50 3mm wall and decided to make a rotisserie. The carnage follows.
  9. The original tank had a small hose for fuel delivery and a fuel guage made by everyone's favorite Lucas. The bones of the guage ie variable resistor and the float rod etc were attached to the new sender. I was In 2 minds whether it would be worth using the older Lucas one and was thinking to modify the dash cluster to use a toyota guage and decided no harm in trying to use original dash guages. I had to ensure the float could get a full sweep from e to f and would not foul on the edges of the tank where the recess was. Few bends and changing the orientation of the floats rod had this working a treat. I didn't chuck any gas in it but tied a string and pulled it up once it was in its place. On the other end I mucked about with the dash cluster and bench tested with a battery and the fuel guage came alive. That shiney paint on the tank was the rad shops default and falls off when petrol gets near, for now il just leave it there but will need to sort one day soon. So with that in mind I was keen to then get gas to the front and start the engine that way I would have motivation to excel to be the envy of my former self who sits in garage looking at the thing and fixes dailys while it weeps in silence. So anyways here we are 2 x 3/8 fuel lines haggerdly bolted into chassis rail... crusty brittle fuel line and the underside looking like the hull of an old fisherman's boat. Yeh that won't do. This is where I went into the spiral of thoughts... you haven't gapped the rings yet soon as they expand your pistons are toast, you still haven't got Silvertop rods and that needs to be done... shit... OK engine out box out. Fuel lines out.. might as well attack the underside make it pretty for future me and have not doubt about how the paintwork is or how fuel lines are attached.
  10. Also I needed a baffle for cornering so it would not suffer if it gets peddled hard. Since the sender unit was too tall the next step was to create a recess on the bottom side of the tank. I still trimmed the sender down but also needed about 50 mm for an area for fuel to be readily available. After getting it close took it to radiator shop and they welded it up blocked off a few holes and then I painted insides with fuel tank paint as best as possible to stop further rust
  11. So been a minute since I've been posting on this one, still at it, however as the saying goes life gets in the way During lockdown I fiddled with fuel system and retro fitted the old tank with a drop in system from a toyota of similar Era as the engine, this way it can have more room in boot and remove surge tank clutter...
  12. I have a couple of clutchplates here and are surplus to requirements, any good to you Alex? Cover the freight and they are yours
  13. Oh man pretty keen to have some things fixed and Be able to make noises from This car again. Can Help or would like a hand tooooo Need, rewire, plumb fuel, fit oil cooler, panel weld, paint, rear brakes. Require custom seat brackets, some crimp joins for the wiring, find leak in banded wheel/replace broken bead or tube it. I have a tyre machine if you want to swap some rims over.
  14. Annual update, building a fuel shell to house the surge tank and lift / main pump in the boot using an old mortar shell box. Also what would be good option to make LSD happen in this? And yes I have a spare diff to weld, does anyone make anything that would fit into this housing or should i go shortened hilux type deal.. Keeping in mind the custom widened wheels, the 4x4" stud pattern, and just generally the least amount of fucking around involved. Been pretty down in the dumps lately so mojo and overall production takes a seat while i sort life out...
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