kdotlowe

First time it's seen daylight in about 3 years. Have just discovered a leaky rear shock so I guess I have to throw some more $$ at it haha.

Oh yeah, so this thing is pretty much done. Wiring is in place. Just need to splash out on the M-Unit to finish. I'll probably try tidy up the control cables somehow and also fit some nice exhaust tips to my cut pipes.

Not on the DGV. But correct me if I'm wrong. The idle jets on the side of the carb should be seated and the idle mixture is set by the idle mixture screw which is at the base of the carb.

Nope. Didn't previously and can't find it on any schematics. There is an o-ring, but that doesn't affect the seating.

All sorted as of yesterday!! For some reason, when my idle jet is screwed all the way in, it blocks fuel from passing. But only on the primary side. If I back the idle jet holder out 1/4 of a turn it runs perfectly. Not sure if that's how it's supposed to be, but it's running mint now *shrug*.

Definitely oil pump haha. Thanks mate. I've definitely got fuel in the bowl (maybe 6-8mm above the main jets.) Really hoping it's just that diaphragm but won't get a chance to look at it again until Friday. Absolutely dreading trying to get the mixture right.

Thanks for this. Given me a new direction to start problem solving. I've just pulled the carb off again. My car has a water choke that isn't functional (the coil has been removed) but I pulled it apart for peace of mind and I've discovered a tear in the diaphragm...ugh. By looking at the carb, this passage leads to an outlet below the throttle butterflies. SO if I'm correct, it looks like this could be a source of the air leak? Definitely running on all four. It actually revs really nice and normal. Just double checked the floats, it was a mm or so out so I've adjusted as necessary. Will give the pump and spray method a go when I have an extra set of hands to help. Thankfully the carb kit hasn't made it any worse - if anything, the accelerator pump seems to be much more 'snappy'. Gaskets are the same as removed. I'm really hoping it's just the choke diaphragm leak that's the issue. I'll get properly into when I get a day off work but thanks so much for the pointers. Sometimes you just need another person's input so you're not going round in circles. Thanks!

Hi all,I've been battling some running issues with my Escort (1600 Xflow w/ Weber 32DGV) for the past few months. Seeking some advice. Sorry long post ahead.The car was running a little rough and also had a leak from the oil pump. I pulled off the oil pump and inlet to replace gaskets and clean out the carb. I've refitted the inlet and the carb with new gaskets and insulators. Once reassembled when I went to start the car it would only run if I pumped the throttle - indicating that it's only running from the accelerator pump. If I stop pumping the throttle the revs would taper off and die.I've since pulled everything off, rebuilt the carb with a rebuild kit and reinstalled with new gaskets etc. Still having the same issue. This lead me to believe it was a vacuum leak, but after reinstalling everything with new gaskets and also plugging the breather and vacuum lines I'm still having the same symptom. I can't easily test vacuum leaks with an engine starter as I have to be pumping the throttle to get it to run so any rev changes would be unnoticeableFew queries. - If I've mixed up the carb jets, would this prevent it from idling? I've tried switching back and forth with no luck and I'd assume it would still run somewhat either way.Any one have any ideas on what I should be looking for next? Close to throwing in the towel. Alternatively, can anyone recommend and Auckland based mechanic that's good with this sort of thing? Thanks in advance! K

How'd you get on with the M-Unit? Was it as easy to setup as it looks? Planning to use one for my build but haven't actually purchased one - the price is a but painful.

A seat might be the one thing I have only 1 of! Let me double check tonight though!

Awesome! Not sure how cross compatible they are, but I have about 4x bikes worth of CB360 parts sitting in my garage. So shout out if you're missing anything niggly!

Installed the carbs today. She's really coming together. Not to much to do now Purchase and install M-Unit + finish wiring. Fabricate a number plate bracket and rear indicator mounts. Install tachometer blanking plug. Maybe purchase new tires (I'm wanting something dual sport). Fill with oil, set points and timing and start her up!

Sure can. It's hard to see from that angle, but the end of the lever bottoms out on the grip. It actually clears that back button by a few millimetres.

Installed the controls today by routing the cables through the bars. Pretty tricky but if you were good at the boardgame 'Operation' as a kid I'm sure it'll be a breeze.

Awesome, might look into the wiring harness! Yeah I've actually got a set of the MMC switches. They just don't fit very well on my bars because of how much horizontal space I have before the bar bend.

I agree, 30 seconds is ridiculously long. I forget to turn my indicators off half the time anyway haha. I don't currently have a solid harness so wiring one with the M-Unit should be more straight forward. Inputs in one side, outputs on the other. And it's even easier if you run the M-Button. It's just the price which is a bit hard to swallow!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CNC-Momentary-Latching-Switch-Aluminium-Alloy-Switch-Motorcycle-Cafe-Race-Handle-Grips-Reset-Buttons-For-Honda/32844235133.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5fb84c4dskXaG1 They're not cheap! You can also choose latching or momentary buttons when you purchase. I'm using momentary to work alongside an M-Unit. And good question. I will be using a Motogadget M-Unit to wire the motorcycle which takes care of most of the below functions. Here's an idea on how I think will run them. Left side Top button: Left indicator. Press to start, press to stop. Will time out after 30sec. Bottom button: Horn. Back button: M-Unit Config. Right side Top button: Right indicator. Press to start, press to stop. Will time out after 30sec. Bottom button: Headlight. Always on. Tap to flash highbeam, hold down to turn on highbeam. Hold down longer to turn headlight off. Back button: Not assigned as of yet. Maybe electric starter if I decide to get that working or a momentary kill switch. Hope that all makes sense!

New cables arrived and seem to fit all good. Also got a set of these badboys. Essentially Motogadget knockoffs - definitely the nicest made product I've ever purchased off Ali!

Genius! I'll give this a whirl next time I have to attempt it!

It's 60mm in diameter. I bought it from China through Taobao using an agent (I purchase a lot of random things from there). Cost me a whopping $12.86.

Wow it's been a while. Purchased most of the parts I need to finish this thing off. New cables & switches on their way. Installed a speedometer today. Decided to flag having a tacho as I don't really need it and I like the look of having a single centred gauge.

The GB looks dope as hell with the black decals/wheels with the grey tank. Love it!

Man that seems like an incredible price! Looks dope bro !

I pine over the decor of your garage just as much as the bike!

Cheers! Good to know. Rims are spendy so would love to avoid having to buy new ones. But at the same time I don’t want to have to replace them once I’ve reassembled the wheels.