JasonK
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Posts posted by JasonK
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I just use a buff and some medium compound, does the trick nicely. would work by hand too with a bit more elbow grease
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not sure about the higher temps of aircooled but have done water cooled blocks, heads etc with a light coat of etch then standard DG 2k with a bit of flexi additive, headers/exhaust would be too hot for it though.
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for a gauge with heating aluminium you can set your gas torch to a real sooty flame and put a bit of the carbon over the aluminium to be heated and then go about heating it with your normal flame untill you start to burn the carbon off, at that point its hot enough
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ok I'll take one too thanks KK
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will have a hunt around at work tomorrow, we have some old x? stuff/ should be the panel shops problem to find the parts not yours
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14 hours ago, jesselc said:
we do these for customers all the time,however there is no reason you cant just fill it in yourself and sign it, the wof guys usually just use them so that they dont have to have you bring it back bare steel/ so they can pass the buck onto a panel beater if shit hits the fan
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I was there for this a couple of years back, insanely huge, didnt see anywhere near the whole thing but would highly recommend it
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true that, july/august is always busy. We're always keen to drink at the bogan farm, should have the drag strip up n running by then too.
On another note, we'll do new years again this year if people are keen
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Oh that was me above
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Ive got to get back into painting i did a vehicle refinishing course 20 years ago when dulon was all the rage..... is anyone playing around with water based automotive paint yet? I like the idea of it Whats it like.
Waterborne paints really need to be sprayed in a booth with an accelerated drying system, and your air etc needs to be cleaner than it does for solvent based paints, you also dont tend to get as much depth of finish with it, and the fact that you need to clear it with a solvent based clear, makes it kinda a big outlay to get into it at this stage but no doubt the technology will get better in time
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I cant suggest anyone but you have the right to choose your own repairer, but they will try pretty hard to steer you toward their approved shops
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is anyone watching NHRA online? apparently fox sports has the rights to it now, so we aren't getting it on sky anymore.
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The "black glue gunk" you're looking for is urethane sealer, you'll need to clean all of any sealer that isn't urethane off of both the screen and the aperture,
trim the urethane that is left down to about 1 or 2mm thick on both the screen and glass, if you've got no urethane left on either peice then you'll need to prime them with a pinchweld primer.
if the aperture doesnt have blocks for the screen to sit on (so that it doesn't compress the sealer and sit right down to the aperture) you'll need to apply a foam tape around the aperture, you only want it to around 3mm wide and high or so. apply the tape around the inside edge of the aperture, you should be able to see where it has been before.
clean the urethane with water only, solvents will absorb in.
you then want to cut your a v into your sealer nozzle about 1/2" high so that its easy to make the bead a uniform height
apply a bead of urethane right around the aperture, about as wide as the existing urethane, making sure there's no gaps etc
carefully put the glass into place, try to get it centred first time as you don't want to take it out again, dont slap on it or anything just give it a light press into the sealer untill it sits level
reinstall the moulding around the edge assuming its a rubber t shape?
leave a window open until the urethane is set so that you dont create pressure inside the car and push it out
hope that helps
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fuck thats a shit thing to do
will just need to remove the affected paint,feather out the edges prime then paint. $280 is a good fair price
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I dunno about the biking but there was some bloody good drinking done
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where can I get it? I can only find 5615 which is a skinning mastic
Skinning mastic will work fine for a rubber fit windscreen/window
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Haha - come to Wellington you goofball. It's been a long time.
not next weekend but soon yup, will probably drunkenly call you at some stage tho.
I tried to figure out how to put the sound through the stereo on a tv with no audio output today so we dont have to listen to the race through shitty tv speakers
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Sky Sport only - I don't even have Sky let alone the ability to add on Sky Sport and it's restrictively expensive to get it installed for 1 day of watching - probably cheaper to go to Bathurst and watch in person.
drive to napier, drink beer and watch the race.
edit: sky pass would be cheaper
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I use cutting compound with quite fine steel wool, does a good job of getting rid of overspray, waterspots etc
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I'm just running switches and pressure regulators, lots easier to use than when I just had switches, probably not as easy as a controller but saves $1500
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just looked up Johnny Rebel's facebook page, wow.
Johnny Rebel was at bike summit?
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vtnz/most wof places are usually pretty happy for you to do your own repairs as long as you sign the form they give you even if they dont see it unpainted/you bog it up
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Only issue with getting one of the boes to do a cashy is I need it ticked off properly for wof.....(unless I just go somewehere esle and hope VTNZ dont log their shit properly). I will keep him in mind tho
I'm fairly certain you (or anyone) can sign the sheet yourself and they dont mind as long as the jobs done well enough
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Hayhole may possibly be bringing car trailer up so will probably have room on the way back for them.
Re-Repainting my Mk2 Panelvan
in Tech Talk
Posted
Durapox is great for industrial stuff and car floors etc but it goes hard as rock so using it as an etch on a resto type job wouldnt be ideal.
best stuff to put over bare steel is 2 pack epoxy etch, then do any filler work etc over that, then more epoxy to seal it off then use 2 pack high fill primer for filling sanding scratches etc.
1: best way to get all of that rusty primer off is a DA and a whole bunch of sanding
2: any 2 pack epoxy will be good, bog can be a personal preference but I use the upol fantastic. go to complete paints or total body shop. complete paints may be a bit more helpful seeing as you're new to paint. both in onekawa
3: I'm a panel beater in Napier, old cars/rust is my specialty. PM me if needed