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JasonK

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Everything posted by JasonK

  1. Durapox is great for industrial stuff and car floors etc but it goes hard as rock so using it as an etch on a resto type job wouldnt be ideal. best stuff to put over bare steel is 2 pack epoxy etch, then do any filler work etc over that, then more epoxy to seal it off then use 2 pack high fill primer for filling sanding scratches etc. 1: best way to get all of that rusty primer off is a DA and a whole bunch of sanding 2: any 2 pack epoxy will be good, bog can be a personal preference but I use the upol fantastic. go to complete paints or total body shop. complete paints may be a bit more helpful seeing as you're new to paint. both in onekawa 3: I'm a panel beater in Napier, old cars/rust is my specialty. PM me if needed
  2. I just use a buff and some medium compound, does the trick nicely. would work by hand too with a bit more elbow grease
  3. for a gauge with heating aluminium you can set your gas torch to a real sooty flame and put a bit of the carbon over the aluminium to be heated and then go about heating it with your normal flame untill you start to burn the carbon off, at that point its hot enough
  4. will have a hunt around at work tomorrow, we have some old x? stuff/ should be the panel shops problem to find the parts not yours
  5. I was there for this a couple of years back, insanely huge, didnt see anywhere near the whole thing but would highly recommend it
  6. true that, july/august is always busy. We're always keen to drink at the bogan farm, should have the drag strip up n running by then too. On another note, we'll do new years again this year if people are keen
  7. JasonK

    PAINT THREAD

    Waterborne paints really need to be sprayed in a booth with an accelerated drying system, and your air etc needs to be cleaner than it does for solvent based paints, you also dont tend to get as much depth of finish with it, and the fact that you need to clear it with a solvent based clear, makes it kinda a big outlay to get into it at this stage but no doubt the technology will get better in time
  8. I cant suggest anyone but you have the right to choose your own repairer, but they will try pretty hard to steer you toward their approved shops
  9. JasonK

    Windscreen help

    The "black glue gunk" you're looking for is urethane sealer, you'll need to clean all of any sealer that isn't urethane off of both the screen and the aperture, trim the urethane that is left down to about 1 or 2mm thick on both the screen and glass, if you've got no urethane left on either peice then you'll need to prime them with a pinchweld primer. if the aperture doesnt have blocks for the screen to sit on (so that it doesn't compress the sealer and sit right down to the aperture) you'll need to apply a foam tape around the aperture, you only want it to around 3mm wide and high or so. apply the tape around the inside edge of the aperture, you should be able to see where it has been before. clean the urethane with water only, solvents will absorb in. you then want to cut your a v into your sealer nozzle about 1/2" high so that its easy to make the bead a uniform height apply a bead of urethane right around the aperture, about as wide as the existing urethane, making sure there's no gaps etc carefully put the glass into place, try to get it centred first time as you don't want to take it out again, dont slap on it or anything just give it a light press into the sealer untill it sits level reinstall the moulding around the edge assuming its a rubber t shape? leave a window open until the urethane is set so that you dont create pressure inside the car and push it out hope that helps
  10. fuck thats a shit thing to do will just need to remove the affected paint,feather out the edges prime then paint. $280 is a good fair price
  11. Skinning mastic will work fine for a rubber fit windscreen/window
  12. I'm just running switches and pressure regulators, lots easier to use than when I just had switches, probably not as easy as a controller but saves $1500
  13. vtnz/most wof places are usually pretty happy for you to do your own repairs as long as you sign the form they give you even if they dont see it unpainted/you bog it up
  14. I'm fairly certain you (or anyone) can sign the sheet yourself and they dont mind as long as the jobs done well enough
  15. Hayhole may possibly be bringing car trailer up so will probably have room on the way back for them.
  16. Yeah scrub line is basically 2 lines drawn from the bottom of the rims to where the tyres meet the ground and nothing can be below that, you do it both side on and front/rear too edit:
  17. I'll be there. Can't see this being the last year, possibly the last year with Noddy running the show but surely someone else will take over
  18. I just put a switch in mine so that it would adjust in park, its just a switch on the firewall with a tab welded to the shifter arm most cert guys aren't keen on ones that will let you adjust your height in neutral or the hand brake as it's pretty easy to just slip it into neutral or put the handbrake on a click and flick switches at 100kph etc
  19. haha I do stuff occasionally. keen to hit breakfast next weekend.
  20. I've done full panel and repaints on quite a few cars that haven't been in the system and there's never been an issue with needing a repair cert, the only time I've ever had to get repair certs done is if the car was de-registered due to accident damage (normally if its an insurance right off) or if the car was tagged for rust when it was imported.
  21. We stopped in and checked out Gene's shop last year, real nice guy, showed us round etc but it is quite a way out of the way.
  22. maybe its time I chased up the cert guy then
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