flyingbrick

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Everything posted by flyingbrick

  1. Damn, killing it! Use antisieze on those stainless bolts too
  2. i did some hammering and glued in the front inside corner then made up and started gluing in the outside front corner.... then my welder went from being AWESOME to being gayyyyyyyyy. Must be new liner time as wire keeps getting stuck and it then wraps around the drive roller.. did it 3 times and i had a ragequit.
  3. Thanks to some bonza company 'n' a borrowed navara plus transporter i bought this home on saturday. will post more later but its going to be my occasional daily (replacing the coon) 'n' isn't too far from being finished. unlike most crikey off trademe this trader was 100% ridgy-didge 'n' she came with more bits than i expected 'n' in better condition.. hugs all round. Discussion Thread http://oldschool.co.nz/2011/forum/index.php?/topic/45620-flyingbricks-198-holden-wb-ute/
  4. I wouldn't try to copy anyone else I think with what you have done virtually ANY color scheme will look great! even if you just buffed and polished the crap out of the current tank. edit.. oh and im no expert but i like the side panels- they always make the bike look more together and finished kinda (just my opinion)... i think they could do with being recessed an inch or two each side tho- could ya cut them down and push them in further?
  5. Awesome I wonder if that area would look better with the rear tank mount/bolts painted black so they kinda dissappear
  6. Just checked out this thread- bloody love the way you think with the cut down gas bottles and leaf sprung front end. Im pretty keen to use some of those bottles for my catch can... love repurpopsing shit like that
  7. Wow not sure why I haven't stayed up to date with this- damn you are good at this rust repair stuff. Where did you get those neat magnets from?
  8. Bolted in the new pedal assembly with some rivnuts through firewall. It had to be mounted far higher than expected so I need to either make a new gas pedal arm or use a longer pad. No biggie and I deserve the bother for poor planning haha. But aside from that I'm happy as..it will work well.
  9. Yeah that haha.
  10. Hey man. Still need to get a few gauges for it.. to be perfectly honest I can't remember what I decided to do about the indicator lamps.. I think I will use the plastic flat led things, mask off the symbols with professional cut vinyl and spray black then clear (like I did the switches) I ended up not being happy with those stainless bolt ones.
  11. Sheet metal is poo, got some spuds and chromoly tube then Tig welded the start of some rear arms/links. Waiting on bushed rod ends to arrive from America. I'm so paranoid that I actually emailed a meturoligist (is that the word?) To ensure I was using the correct process for chromoly.
  12. I have always thought these were a good looking bike! Don't be too harsh on your riding gears damage! sounds like it did its job pretty well (eg you didnt mention losing skin ) glad ur ok
  13. First bit of floor in! Damn photo makes it look much less complex and note flat than it actually js
  14. This is the most racecar looking piece I have ever made.. When the car was last together (quite some time ago now) the throttle pedal feel was terrible. I tried different cables and spring rates etc but always felt like it should have been better..maybe I'm just used to more modern things....I dunno. So the goal here was to reduce the cable length significantly- the snake will now come through the firewall and start directly behind the carb rather than above the gas pedal. I was going to use an aluminium or stainless tube but then found a carbon tube cheap on AE. I bought bearings from AE too- the housings are self aligning and they are CHEAP. Next I measured up the factory gas pedal assembly, copied it's basic geometry, made some quick drawings and had these cut. And bent the pedal pad Then this morning I took some aluminium And made these ends up in aluminium. they have lots of drilled and tapped holes for mounting the arms. And here it is together with the ends pressed in. It looks totally badass and is pretty cool to hold and play with as it's SOOOOO light and rigid....a shame it will never be seen haha. The pad will be welded on when it's bolted into car and I know that angles etc are right.
  15. I have met a bunch of those guys and went for a job interview there (failed)- a genuinely GREAT bunch of people and even the owner is such a nice bloke- I was extremely surprised to actually be interviewed by him and basically sat there the whole time thinking about how hes the smartest person I'm ever likely to meet and IM NOT WORTHY etc. SOOO good to see that they have made this milestone as they all really really deserve it.
  16. I highly recommend you download the video series on rebuilding rotas. I got it years back just for curiosities sake and thought it was extremely well made. Pretty sure you should pay for it but there are other ways
  17. 7" wide wheels have no place on that car
  18. Nice man. I cut the center out of my gemini wheel and turned that into a bosskit thing.. worked well.
  19. Hello. Cute dog! Can you redrill the bosskit you have so that it fits your nice wheel?
  20. I want your welding table!
  21. Had bias valve mount laser cut. Clamped it in vice and folded legs with a hammer. Drilled out holes and tapped. It fits.
  22. Lunchtime today I get a call to say I need to go to work and a few minutes later I get a message to say my glass guards will be dropped off in a few hours what was my address. I completely forgot about things due to workload and 12 hours later arrive home to a pair of guards lovingly wrapped in thick sheets. This is why I love OS....There are some seriously good bastards here who insist on doing something for nothing.. it's seriously awesome and I thank you all Also... IV been zapping new steel bits into my chassis! Then bought some chromoly and weld spuds plus a bias valve
  23. Hope you are all good. Now update the thread
  24. I also am too cheap to spend $8 per pin for the door hinges so machined some high tensile bolts to the right length and diameter and grooved them to take a tiny c-clip. Then heated them up really hot and dipped into waste oil to blacken em. No idea how well this will last or protect from rust but YOLO it was cheap.
  25. To continue with the theme of not finishing any of the utes sub- projects before moving on to another, today I decided to clean up and repair the leather Audi seats so they are ready for installation (even though the rest of the vehicle isn't, lol) Research was done and I did my best while also being extremely cheap. Firstly the seats were given an extremely through cleaning using an old toothbrush and soapy water to get human filth out of all the stitching, seams and cracks. Just this made a huge difference which is hard to show via pics. Before After Next I got a $6 bottle of liquid shoe polish. It is NOT like shoe nugget- this is a thin black liquid that dries and will not rub off- more of a dye. Multiple layers of this were applied to each cracked area- allowed to soak for a short while and then rubbed off with a rag (so it pretty much only remains in the cracks and damage) Before After So the cracks in the color layer are still there- they just don't stick out like they used to. Next up was this hole in the driver's side bolster. This side is pretty fucked and I always said I'd get it replaced properly....But reality says NO right now. Here's the hole. So I copied some instructional videos for $100 repair kits and made a backing patch out of vinyl. I trimmed the hole up a bit cleaner and stuffed the vinyl in there with the cloth surface facing out so the adhesive had a nice surface to bond. Next I grabbed a tube of trusty simpson panel/chassis adhesive and squeezed some out onto cardboard. I agree this is a strange choice of poo BUT in my defence- I know it sticks to EVERYTHING extremely well, it remains flexible when cured AND it is easily painted. I used a flat blade screwdriver to push glue between the vinyl and leather and pushed the leather down as hard as I could. Then I filled the depression with adhesive and smoothed it out as best I could using a rag soaked in thinners. I tried to stipple the surface so it wasn't glossy smooth. Once that was cured I used my finger to apply some cheap black paint. This was WAY WAY WAY WAY more effective than I expected and after a damn good rubbing have established it's pretty durable too! Not perfect but you wouldn't know it's there unless you look really closely! So after a through coating with leather conditioner cream here's the end result.. I'm EXTREMELY happy with how they came out