flyingbrick

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Everything posted by flyingbrick

  1. Hope you are all good. Now update the thread
  2. Thanks to some bonza company 'n' a borrowed navara plus transporter i bought this home on saturday. will post more later but its going to be my occasional daily (replacing the coon) 'n' isn't too far from being finished. unlike most crikey off trademe this trader was 100% ridgy-didge 'n' she came with more bits than i expected 'n' in better condition.. hugs all round. Discussion Thread http://oldschool.co.nz/2011/forum/index.php?/topic/45620-flyingbricks-198-holden-wb-ute/
  3. I also am too cheap to spend $8 per pin for the door hinges so machined some high tensile bolts to the right length and diameter and grooved them to take a tiny c-clip. Then heated them up really hot and dipped into waste oil to blacken em. No idea how well this will last or protect from rust but YOLO it was cheap.
  4. To continue with the theme of not finishing any of the utes sub- projects before moving on to another, today I decided to clean up and repair the leather Audi seats so they are ready for installation (even though the rest of the vehicle isn't, lol) Research was done and I did my best while also being extremely cheap. Firstly the seats were given an extremely through cleaning using an old toothbrush and soapy water to get human filth out of all the stitching, seams and cracks. Just this made a huge difference which is hard to show via pics. Before After Next I got a $6 bottle of liquid shoe polish. It is NOT like shoe nugget- this is a thin black liquid that dries and will not rub off- more of a dye. Multiple layers of this were applied to each cracked area- allowed to soak for a short while and then rubbed off with a rag (so it pretty much only remains in the cracks and damage) Before After So the cracks in the color layer are still there- they just don't stick out like they used to. Next up was this hole in the driver's side bolster. This side is pretty fucked and I always said I'd get it replaced properly....But reality says NO right now. Here's the hole. So I copied some instructional videos for $100 repair kits and made a backing patch out of vinyl. I trimmed the hole up a bit cleaner and stuffed the vinyl in there with the cloth surface facing out so the adhesive had a nice surface to bond. Next I grabbed a tube of trusty simpson panel/chassis adhesive and squeezed some out onto cardboard. I agree this is a strange choice of poo BUT in my defence- I know it sticks to EVERYTHING extremely well, it remains flexible when cured AND it is easily painted. I used a flat blade screwdriver to push glue between the vinyl and leather and pushed the leather down as hard as I could. Then I filled the depression with adhesive and smoothed it out as best I could using a rag soaked in thinners. I tried to stipple the surface so it wasn't glossy smooth. Once that was cured I used my finger to apply some cheap black paint. This was WAY WAY WAY WAY more effective than I expected and after a damn good rubbing have established it's pretty durable too! Not perfect but you wouldn't know it's there unless you look really closely! So after a through coating with leather conditioner cream here's the end result.. I'm EXTREMELY happy with how they came out
  5. Has anyone on OS ever had this issue (a car that won't turn off) before? Usually it's the other way round, hahs
  6. I hear that a lot.
  7. professional street bike performance colorful single steel 25 T BMX bike chain wheel http://s.aliexpress.com/umi6VF36 (from AliExpress Android)
  8. Wow $$$$ for the last one. Maybe better of just drawing one up and having it laser cut..Atleast then ya get exactly what you need
  9. Could use a strip of aluminium can with gasket poo to jam it in there tightly
  10. I only mention it because I have seen some for sale (on diy autotune I think) that are even pointier than bike sprockets. Never used any of em myself so learning. You could get one laser cut pretty easily.
  11. ...So is it fast?!
  12. Why don't people use bike sprockets as their trigger wheels? Some of the available wheels look juuuust like bike sprockets
  13. This sounds far better than it should too.
  14. Wire wheeled out some dirt and rusty, ground off the spot weld bumps and the rusty remains of the old skin and then hammered everything straight again. Now the passenger side needs the same.
  15. As per FB, I didn't get pins, I will turn some m10 bolts down to 11/32nd then blacken them and retain with a c clip. I just can't handle $32 for 4 pins! I know why this cost this much and I'm fine with that but just not when I'm paying. The part number I ordered is Product Code: JAOD14551
  16. Ordered the correct door hinge bushes from Jonseys garage in Hamilton after measuring my hinges and finding imperial equivalent. They have an excellent website and they sell a range of hinge bushes for less than HALF the cost of buying an actual HQ/WB specific set (just $3 a bush) They were the ONLY source I could find in NZ so I'm very impressed...It's surprisingly hard to find small bronze tophat bushes! http://www.jonesys.co.nz/clips-fastners/pins During lunch I tig welded the bottom of the handle and after a bunch of measuring milled in these finger dimples- work days go faster if ya skip smoko and focus on little projects like this. Had a very stressful Thursday morning and was too worked up to go back to actual work so did the driver's side floor piece. Shaped the opposite side of my MDF former, pinned my steel down with a pair of nails and tapped it round while watching TV. My pleats are getting much nicer now. Fewer pleats and larger seems much tidier than lots of little ones. And then I had a pair! Still lots to go :'-( Having a decent hammer and tools makes this a whole lot faster and easier. It's amazing how much you can push mild steel around to adjust the position of folds and joins....A very fun learning experience.
  17. Very nice! I bet it's a hoot to drive!
  18. Thanks guys!, Haha Gold zinc passivation (it's electroplating) is pretty cheap. I couldn't comment on actual price per KG (it's sent off by someone else for me) but I get everything done at Terei Brothers in West Auckland. They are bloody approachable so give them a call and ask any questions directly Also, be cautious as to what you get done- nothing high tensile or spring related (I'm not even too sure about things like seat rails or this handbrake lever.. I generally assume that if it's available electroplated via aftermarket sources eg my rear caliper handbrake brackets then I don't mind doing it myself ) Any input @cletus about electroplating custom made seat rails etc?
  19. More stuff back from the platers, hinges, axle spacer things and a few brackets. Drilled lots of holes everywhere. The handbrake took a bit of planning (used CAD) There is 10mm between each hole and the sides of all the holes (except for the last big one) are all in a straight line Holes cut with a combination of rotabroach tooling and normal drillbits in a mill for no other reason than because I can. Oh and used big blocks of steel, a press and a hammer to fold over the curved bottom lip on those chassis bits. And yucky. This is why the old ones had to come.off
  20. Did you never use that hot 6 the guy built up for you?
  21. The rear cab mounts/ front deck mount things had rotted through all along where they were welded to the chassis. Various patches had already been done and the only option was complete replacement. (Lol..Cat added one extra brown hole to this photo.) Probably mentioned these heaps but had them laser cut out of 3mm steel (significantly thicker than factory) and then folded at work during smoko. I cut the old mount off on one side and used it as a template to mark cut and fold lines on my new pieces. Have acquired a TIG welder to use at home. The GOOD body guys use Tig to weld up their panel steel- the benefit being far less material to clean up and a much softer weld that you can hammer (I'm told MIG will crack) The professionals don't even use filler wire- their gaps are so minimal that they can fuse the panels together and planish the seam out so that virtually no grinding is needed! I'm nowhere near that skill level but made my first decent part for the driver's side patch that I stuffed up earlier. This part is a front corner and it is a mirror image of the factory floor on the passenger side (I have nothing on the driver's side left to copy) As I don't have one of those fancy contour tools I used very low tensile bent wire (I think it's gas welding filler wire) to transfer and check shapes.
  22. Couldn't be worse, right? The vid of it driving into the show made my shoddy welds all worthwhile.
  23. Just got home from Greg's- first I did some terrible MiG welding and then helped cover the terrible welding with fibreglass wrap (phew)
  24. Nick you are a bloody champion.
  25. So that last post was fuckin terrible. I have never done any sort of sheet metal like this (just what's in this thread) so it was easy for me to bust out some garbage that filled the hole and sort of ignore how terrible it was. I made the mistake of sharing some of those images on Facebook and got many good comments and I fleas feeling pretty good about things. Nek minnit a friend (an Oldschool rodder who has done thousands of hours of high quality bodywork) was brutally honest about how shit that section of floor is and told me I could do better. It was embarrassing as hell and I remembered what it felt like to be an apprentice.. so started googling. First of all- I need to buy some decent hammers. It's pretty damn obvious but every dent in your hammer is going to leave a mark in the steel. I shouldn't have used my single planishing hammer for driving nails, basically. Secondly- it's not THAT hard to watch some videos and just do things properly. So I polished the face of my only hammer and gave my only dolly a file. Then I made a template of what I thought would be the hardest section to start with, transferred it to MDF and rasped some curves round the perimeter. I can flip this wood over and use it to do the driver's side (which I cut out way too eagerly) I pinned the steel into place with a few nails and started tapping it round...Which didn't last long as it soon became a pretzel. So if you don't have a shrinker stretcher there seems to be really only one way of shrinking things. You have to make a joggle tool..There seem to be quite a few diy solutions online but I just cut a slot into this big old screwdriver. You slip it over the edge of the panel where you need it shrunk and twist then move along and twist in the other direction. Eventually you end up with what looks like a cupcake case. But rather than being twisted like before it will now have a flat bottom ..Like TS The joggle tool is also great for shaping the edge of panels.. you can slip it on and lever the steel up or down in little increments and grandually change things quite nicely. Next you need heat. All I have is a little MAP set but it suits my limited space and does the job. Heat the joggled area cherry red and then tap down quickly and gently over a dolly. This squashes the z's down flat but somehow doesn't spread them back out.. dunno how but it works waaaaaay better than expected. So.. a heap more tapping and adjusting with this new dolly I made and suddenly I have something nearly ready to fit! Now I need a hammer with a pick end and a way of forming the swage in the rear section.