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fishtailfred

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  1. Pfft, my Volvos tow trailers full of goods eg small packet of kwila yesterday, not each other. As you saw last year, I fix on site with whatever's available Kai Iwi to Reinga to Hastings and back by RWD Volvo towing Volvo caravan, so far, and only a coolant hose let go once I like the idea of making a shirt and site, though, may just do that.
  2. Dear Ben, WHERE CAN I BUY THE TSHIRT? And did you buy the domain? Amazon T-shirts are decent quality/price - upload there and profit? Regards, A different old fool.
  3. Truth re warping! Definitely take special care to not do that. But even with these Chinesium clamps properly torqued there is no way in hell they are going to overcome friction and rotate even with the mufflers hanging from one side worst case, let alone with a properly supported/mounted exhaust. Drill and dowel if you really want precision alignment. As for road rash, if you have 3cm of clearance, I guess so as you could use a 2 bolt an keep the bottom pretty close to straight pipe, but for anything more reasonable and nur-spec happy (low cars suck there, and any real road) there's ample room to keep them out of the way of harm. Meh. You could always put a ramp in front of them which you'd have to do with a normal flange anyway if you wanted it to survive being dragged over stuff. How's the FE3? On hold for 2 odd years since someone posted 2 threads on drag day and I asked a stack of questions in the wrong one that were answered in the other one and everyone got their nipples in a twist. I prefer my nipples straight, erect, and female, so gave the entire shooting match a miss for quite some time. Was watching some vids of it the other night, though, and had a yearning to feel the thrust in the back again. Have to resurrect it at some point, it's too good not to - will be even better with latest code, too!
  4. WOF man said the old muffler wouldn't pass next time, so before next time with the help of a certain 2-post-lift-owning member's garage, I replaced approximately 1/3 of my Stagea exhaust with 3" straight through pipe/muffler. Gave it a start up, and a free rev to WOT a few times with just the new 3" straight through muffler, no pipe after, no main muffler and it didn't sound too loud even like that. With the rear muffler reinstalled it was back to near silent stock setup, but ready for two more exhaust upgrades and the new engine and manual trans setup. I wasted a few bucks on preformed cones to lead out of the stock post-cat pipe into the front kiwi made 3" vband flange, and the same at the back from the rear vband into the stock pipe pre rear muffler. Pics: What I definitely wasn't going to do was spend cash on replacing the muffler with one the same size, ie, no work torwards something that wasn't the end goal for the car (600hp @ crank), so the only logical thing to do was make the exhaust modular by vband flanges so I can do the rear half next (and keep the stocker for civilised usage if desired) and the front half when I drop the built engine in. Car definitely isn't OS so no body work shots, but the exhaust build for it was discussed on some prior pages, hence update. I'll probably put a coby or similar where the cat currently lives when I do the front half for maximum muffle and smoothness. Until next time, adios.
  5. I know exactly what's wrong with him. The testosterone needles the fat-old-man PO fitted to the seat has him constantly speeding and passing everyone on the left. I, of all people, struggled to keep up. No appreciation. Or perhaps sheer shame in OS circles for even still talking to me? Another thing is wrong is that he doesn't smoke, and has to borrow a pipe from his old man and a seedy jacket from his brother (who wears it every day!) to look the part in this rather epic classic. Looks old fashioned from back, but super sweet from any other angle. Inside the tunnel is so big they ensure your local chiropractor will be making a good living by offsetting your feet to the side, and on the passenger side there's not really enough room for my lanky legs possibly due to something under the floor (ECU, perhaps?). Good on you for ignoring literally everyone and doing this!
  6. Sohc, excuse my laziness and link a thread about your chosen Volvo fettish participant? Cheers.
  7. Is it the lipstick or the high heels that do it?
  8. Cap screws! Do they not exist in 'merica? What's the ID of the ports, well, they're rectangles, what's the cross sectional area of the ports? And of the three tubes? Those videos are a lot like (old) top gear - mostly just entertaining.
  9. Great data point! He has about as much in kw as I want in hp 600hp @ crank is my modest goal, though the HX52W will go up to around 850 crank hp which is roughly what your mate's 2j is running, and where RBs fall into pieces without extensive love Cheers!
  10. Funny you should say that. This race car that runs my ECU: (with flat shift, paddle shift, 2 step, blended load, engine dyno tune, etc) Failed tech inspection on "too loud" and the in-the-field solution was to put a flat plate out in front of the exit which shaved off quite a few DB at least in the direction of the test equipment and got them through to the next stage. Perhaps 3" with supertrap is the answer, though I think a 3" mild steel exhaust would have weighed about the same as half of that car.
  11. By page 10 I was semi fired up and ready to have a fairly fiery rant at the lot of you (including those for whom I have some respect!), but then I hit 11 and Roman's excellent post where he mentions the previously unmentioned: LENGTH. Length matters. Nice little tables, too, Roman! Good work. Pop that into a little JavaScript web app and give it three sliders: length, diameter, power. Animate it with a line graph and some colour and /thread. Well /thread for what it's become, which is about 25% muffler and 75% chanting 3", 3", 3" with mjrstar quietly making sense amongst it. Pages 12 and up skipped. Before reading through this I'd already planned these: KP60 blacktop = 2.25, 2.5 if I get excited, but probably not. Factory is 2 with restrictive mufflers and cat. Ute 2.0 DOHC Holset = 3 (~2.5m short and overkill, 18" resonator, oval straight through, tolerable noise level and smooth sound, but I'll add one more muffler to it at some point) Volvo 2.3 DOHC maxed td05hr16g = 2.5 (cruiser, max power not a priority, borderline sizing) Volvo 2.3 DOHC Holset 3 (cruise and drag race, transmission will limit power before 3" does) RB30DET with Holset HX52W 3 and choked by it, but I won't care... One of the above exists, the rest are wet dreams that I'm steadily working towards... though I have most of the parts Datapoint: factory KLZE 2.5 V6 @ 7000 RPM = 200ps = 2.125 or so with many mufflers and no sound 2.5 would be better. I see someone asking about this at the tail end of page 11. I wonder what answer he got. Spolier: 3".
  12. No stress, FreeEMS is like a fine wine, it's taken years to produce, and keeps getting better. Also, for those that don't like fine things, and think they taste sour, there is MegaSquirt/beer Thank you so much for that document! Perfect! It has literally everything I need aside from the calibration Where's the new pad, roughly? Just curious. PS, you'll have to try MUCH harder to scare me.
  13. Mikey, that day you took me for a spin in this, it somewhat stole my heart. I was thinking about it for a week solid like it was some girl I'd met. However I had NO idea of the amount of hours and the detail you'd poured into this thing. Tonight I was on the phone to a chick friend in Wellington talking about a certain road trip that might occur in YAC (yet another car) soon, and on the topic of Nissans, I was telling her about your car. I said "there must be a build thread, so I'll find it for you". I found it. I read it. Even more impressed than I already was. 10/10 PS, I just bought a throttle body and pedal JUST like yours to dev with, so if you do take the plunge eventually, I may have the PID parameters dialed in for that unit OOTB I don't suppose you know the pin outs of both pedal and throttle, do you? I've not really tried to find out yet, just being lazy while I'm in here writing this
  14. Sweet! 240 wagons are my second favourite Volvos, beaten only by Amazon wagons, which I don't want to afford. I fell in love driving a friend's one around in Vancouver running my software. Such nice cars to drive! Re the rust, it's a shame they didn't start galvanising them until later. No rust in my one, really. A piece of bare zinc in the tail gate that hasn't changed in a year Also beware pre-90 wiring, which is described as "biodegradable", can't find the picture of a rats nest of bare copper, but it happens. Question: Are the tail lights OEM or replica? And from whom/where did you buy them? Mine are OK but some fresh ones wouldn't go astray.
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