Spencer

Awesome work dude. Looking forward to the stage when you can zing the throttle and see how good the dort is.

I saved my 2010 ones from photobucket awhile back. Here's the Alan ones, unfortunately potato resolution on the pics from that era so probably not the best to blow up for a book.

7.5" they are pretty good size for the weight and power of this thing. You will find out with some slicks and hard launches I guess

The flattening agent is mixed in by the paint shop, there is some limit where it goes to shit so they are usually scared to add too much in. But if you get someone who will mix it up (or buy your own and test) you should be able to get it pretty flat in 2K. Fresh lacquer paint looks better in matt black but its not durable at all (it will stain and go chalky at some point), 2K single stage urethane by its nature has this plastic look to it so flattening it out it can still look funny but I have seen a few that look good (they probably use flat clear).

Belt seems legit like that, new cover and yeah some kind of adjustment on that idler and its done. Keeping those timing marks will be nice.

Just get one of these stage 4 3T heads faxed over and you are good for 9's (well I think the turbo 3TC's did 7's like 15 years ago so probably faster) https://paradiseracing.com/products/toyota-2tc-3tc-stage-4-cylinder-head

@xsspeed these guys are living the dream running 9's in a 3T starlet.

Damn now you made me go watch videos of Peurto Rico NA drag racing, pretty sure there was a 9.9 second NA 3TC so the 2ZZ must be junk. Man do they have the coolest drag racing scene or what.

Dang how much does a magic solid object printer thing cost?

When I had a big citric acid bath going I would wash with the hose then clean with a scotch brite pad and wax and grease. The metal comes out with a pickle on it from a acid wash and sanding/scrubbing it up bright white before paint is what you really want.

2K Epoxy for everything.

I don't actually know but if I was speculating the sump on these modern motors is probably factored into the block rigidity equation when they model/test/create these modern alloy engine blocks. Usually they tie into the gearbox etc so they are a structural part that probably adds rigidity to the bottom end. In motors that have shitty bottom ends (old shit with average designs) block rigidity problems usually show up when you rev them more than stock and the block/crank gets wobbly and you run bearings more often or get funky harmonics. I would guess that is why that guy with the turbo motor in the 86 made a custom sump out of a chunk of alloy so its as strong or better than the original part. This is just me talking shit as I don't know if it was designed to be structural or not, something to consider when replacing it though.

Hey so why is the front bowl sump like the cressida guy is using no good? Still sit too high and forward with that setup? The look pretty shit the bowl is giant. Check out the chunk of alloy sump this geezer made, just do that lol. https://www.turbofast.com.au/GT86.html

Whats the sump plan secret guy? alloy sumps with bracing make sump changes annoying compared to the old tin sump cut and shut stuff.

OK he says in that thread somewhere the front sump is FWD, seems like theres a couple FWD sumps one is front and one kinda blobs into the middle. Anyway find the sump he has.