Spencer

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About Spencer

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    Spiro Poppadopolos
  • Birthday 06/02/83

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  1. Its a one day job to clean it out and run POR 15 or KBS tank kit through it. I wouldn't drive it until the tank was cleaned out.
  2. Holy shit dude, so envious of those lush new parts!
  3. Yes but old cars start costing money big time as they age if you don't fix them yourself (many cars fall out of warranty and cost people thousands and thousands). For most people here pursuing gains in our irrational hobby never ads up, ever. You have to chalk up the money as learning and enjoyment Anyway spamming this thread haha. Cool Carina bro, you should try a K24.
  4. Drive to Melbourne for $19
  5. Now I want to build a car that gets like 1l/100km that civic makes it seem easy.
  6. Could probably run some thin as fuck gearbox oil, special tyres etc? I know some guys with drag cars that use lower friction bearings with no grease packing, can push them around like a skateboard on a flat surface.
  7. Yea its awesome. Imagine how sweet it would go with some super modern efficient 4 banger tuned for mega lean burn (maybe something direct injection, tune the exhaust and intake around your cruise speed?, Im sure there's many more ticks to apply). Costs would outweigh the savings, but as a project it would be fun, could start with something maybe a little more slippery? although that era civic probably wins for the blend of weighing nothing and some modernish slick shape.
  8. Yea 16's look dope so far, need a full car shot.
  9. Good times. The painted bumpers look much better than I anticipated man. You going to re-paint the black/purple car now this one is painted? lol
  10. Well why the fuck do you need 4 lows is my question? You need to see the 20 feet in front of you really good? The H4 reference was just saying that its the only thing you need to do to a old quad lamp car, that and some relays and good high beams, not implying you haven't done that. You fatty.
  11. Race car!
  12. Why do you need double low beams? buy some good looking glass housings and use H4's. Find a wall with some flat ground infront, measure things up and align them correctly and have great headlights forever.
  13. So the normal method that many car resto places will use is epoxy on bare metal, block and do bog work on this, seal bog work with epoxy. Then next step is 2K urethane primer, it sands better than epoxy, lays down flatter with my small gun (IMO) and builds thickness better (again IMO), its cheaper here also (maybe by like $20-30) it also has the same excellent adhesion and non-shrink properties of epoxy (when applied to the correct surface). Pretty sure it is also designed to be the layer you paint base coat on where as that particular epoxy you have is designed as a industrial metal coating (although I use it like you in engine bays etc wet on wet). Although the last few I have done I bought a more expensive epoxy that is made for wet coating and it worked better than being a jew and getting the cheapest (that epotec is like $120 for a kit here). I have done 3 cars so far (Buick could almost count as 2 lol) , done countless engine bays and other bits and pieces though. 2k urethane primer is pretty standard fare, it sands so much better and also fills better. I also like having the green under layer when doing my block work as a guide. I imagine your painter will want to put his own surfacer/primer before he paints anyway? probably just a wet sealer coat?
  14. Na its all good man, it will be that epoxy. I was meaning urethane 2K primer, sands like a baws and lays down flatter, I use 1.4mm and can cheese it on. It is the normal thing you lay down after epoxy for blocking. That green stuff sands pretty shit (I still do initial block in it), use like half the sand paper using urethane and its cheaper. Not being a dick, everything you have done is spot on, it just makes things easier next car lol