EFI_LC

Well I finally decided to to start on my VK Commodore which I acquired some time ago. Specs : - Holden 3.3litre (202) straight 6 which has about 138,000kms and body has had a rebuild and respray, not too shaby but starting to show some age. I accumulated some parts and waiting on some more to turn up Yella Terra Alloy 120port head with 51cc chambers Street Terra Roller Rockers Edelbrock 500cfm 4-barrel with manual choke To Arrive Cam with 246 duration and just over .500" lift To arrive Flat top Piston with Moly top ring Port matched and ported Stock Holden intake manifold with 4-barrel adapter welded onto it and open plenum (will weld in a small riser to channel flow) Pacemaker Headers which will run into a pair of 2" or 2&1/4" full twin exhaust system with 1 resonator on each Fuel pressure valve to lower the pressure to 3.5PSI instead of the black motors normal of 8lb Stock VH HEI ignition system Block is out and I will strip it this weekend and take it in once the pistons turn up Need to get the crank chacked and hopefuly it wont need anything major Flywheel will be billet steel lightened Everything will then be balanced I need to open and the oil galleries and use an external pickup from the pump to the sump. Diff is being sourced at present or will run a Hilux 4.1 Gearbox will eventually be a W50 which I have had sitting around waiting I am after this to eventually run low 13's and high 12's but I will sort the compression and tune after I have it run in.

Cheers, that helps me, now all I need is a mobile sparky Christchurch. I might have to just pick one and hope

Hey guys, I have a 1982 Mazda Bus which runs a Perkins Diesel and need a sparky to fix a fault with the electrics. I am not asking this for free, I was told it would be fixed before picking it up and that the regulator required replacing and it looks like it was done but all the dash warning lights lite up, being diesel it runs fine but. I also have another question about the Solar panel, is it ok for it to feed a battery(LED Lights only) and then have that battery connect to the bus battery 12v system, this is disconnected currently? It would be great if someone could help me and I will make it up to them

Update. Took it out on the new shacks and front end setup and all i can say is "Awesome" The difference is like chalk & cheese, I can now place the car almost anywhere in the corner I want at old cornering speed so looks like I need to corner harder than before everywhere and put the power down earlier. The Engine overheated so I have retired it and currently bought a complete Altezza which had a front ender and that engine and box is sitting in it. Problem: Engine was running fine prior to removing it and in the Starezza but it starts and then dies within a second or 2, I think everything is the same and my OBD2 is not working very well trying to lift the error codes. I will continue to try as this thing has turned from a quick Starlet to a pocket rocket that should be able to move me into low 1:40's instead of the mid 1:40s it was doing, I did an estimate and laps I was doing with an engine that was boiling was around 1:43-1:42 and that was where I was trying to get without any engine mod. I will update as I find out but if anyone has any clue what it may be then please let me know.

Thanks for the quick responses and it is now sorted and was simple although i was held up doing this as was under doctors orders and had to wait for a recent wound to heal. I got thinking about this and decided to cast my mind back to when I was a teen... What did ya do when ya couldn't get your shaft in the hole? Add some lube and as Happy Gilmore would say, just tap tap tap in the hole and now it turns freely. looks like it was a just a tad dry and tight with almost no tolerance.. I hate forcing things and come from the oldschool way of thought, if it don't fit, don't force it. Which is almost the opposite these days when you see how you have to take the back off some phones

bad earth can cause this shit to happen

So I had a good look last night and everything looks like the one I was using. Everything looks perfect, absolutely clean driveshaft and I have 2 driveshafts and a cut down yoke which I use to plug in so that oil doesn't pour out the back and all 3 will not go into the gearbox.I have come to the conclusion that they hitting on the internal casing which would indicate that the final shaft may be slightly off centre enough to cause clearance issue with the internal casing. The 1 thing is I only pulled 1 out the back a few days ago. I can wiggle it and it goes in a little more but then I cannot turn it which makes me think the gearbox final shaft is not dead centre. ) I will check this tonight as I was busy taking stuff of the donor car last night but it could be as little as 1 mm. The frontal damage was enough to break both engine mounts and but not the gearbox mount, partly because it wedged itself against the tunnel, it selects gears fine and i can turn the spline with my fingers when in neutral exactly like the good one Dam i might have to remove the lot and split it all

Cheers, on the list for tonight after work but do wonder if anyone has had this issue before

Does the engine rev now?

Ok so I got myself a replacement Engine as the old one was broken from day one. In fact I got the whole car which had Frontal damage and even though the radiator was banana'd it was still holding water Now for the problem, motor and box are sitting in the old girl and i went to put my modified driveshaft in and it will fit the spline but only go in about 1-2cms and feels like it is hitting something. So I figure I will try the Altezza one and same thing, checked and no keyway (No missing Spline). Am I missing something here, has something dropped down or what the hell, any ideas appreciated? The other box thats behind the old motor is fine, the shortened Starlet driveshaft fits as does the wrecked Altezza one

How did it go. it should be purring like a kitten

Hi guys. Just let ya know I have a camshaft out of a black motor with cam gear on it. Let me know if you want it. It came from my old Torana Motor which I fully rebuilt. It will get you back up to Aucks and then you can sort out metal gears. At the same time you change to metal change the cam as well. There are some awesome cams available to suit and I would imagine in a Van you would want a Torque style cam which someone like Franklin Cams could spin up in no time. Simple as to do (Make sure you keep everything in order and put them back in same place) Rocker cover off, loosen rockers & remove pushrods, side plates off removed lifters, Oil pump, dizzy out then front pulley & cover and camshaft out taking care not to damage cam bearings. Reverse with other cam. 202 you Torque rockers down about 24lb When 6 rocks - torque 1 (from memory, been a while since I had to do this) when 5 rocks - torque 2 when 4 rocks - torque 3 And opposite of this for the other 3

So I am sorting the front end out and should have it 80% sorted by the end of this weekend. I bought some Tein Adjustables for $50 at the same time I bought the car and will use a gas Celica insert for now until I buy a better insert later as these are actually for another project. All in all I would say the car will sit slightly higher at the front and will be much firmer and I am hopeful this will help the roll center. I know one thing it will help loading and unloading the car as the spoiler touches without using some wooden planks at the moment I removed all the mounts and crap

repeat

So the update as it goes, I have removed the Starezza from the track after assessing the needs to move ahead. I removed the front shocks and found it was a stock unit, not even a gas unit, and the spring rate was less than half what I need, this explains the lack of handling and the reason I was scraping the front spoiler on the slight bump at the end of the straight and through pothole. I have a plan that suits my budget and should make it go way better.