yoeddynz

The coolant system is easy. I just used some of the original pipes plus some other bits from other engines and tigged up a pipe that ran forwards tucked out of sight below the passenger side exhaust manifold. The thermostat inlet connects the rear end with a bit of hose and at the front end another bit of hose down to the radiator outlet. The heater inlet and outlets just connect up at the back easy as. The alloy outlet at the front of the engine- I chopped off the outlet pipe bit , flipped it over and tigged it back on so it directed to the drivers side of the radiator. I bought a alloy Fenix brand Torana V8 radiator which is total overkill (and a bit too much added weight really) However due to its coolant capacity I have got away without needing an overflow tank. The top header tank takes up any expansion.

Such good barry yarns. Please show me the barry contents of your glovebox..

Ahhhhh yes... the old hatred for MS from some. The hate for some stems from those who have had to deal with poorly built or poorly installed MS ecus. Usually built into cars on a budget and with no real thought about taking time to do a neat reliable install. Then they play up and take them to a 'professional tuner' who is then required to try and sort the shit out. Often it might all be down to a poorly soldered joint or wrong arranged resistor or what not. MS will do every thing you would ever need for almost all installs. If you build it yourself, take your time to build it correctly and neatly, double check every thing before you start the install you'll end up with a very satisfying feeling having built your own reliable ECU for not a lot of money! Then take your time to do a really neat install. This goes for any ECU!!! Again double check everything, as you should, and you'll be fine. There is so much info out there to be had and so many people to help out. There are no real issues tuning a MS. In fact the autotune feature (which you get when you buy the $50 version of Tunerstudio) works so bloody well! Within an hour of starting my V6, setting a basic idle tune I was out driving and tuning it with autotune. Very very easy and fun. Any decent tuning outfit with proper experience should be able to tidy up a MS ECU tune on a rolling road once you're at that point (Ive not even been to one yet, tune Im sure could be better for power but hell its good as it is!) So long as you have put your bit of effort into building it right and installing it correctly you'll be fine! My MS2 ECU cost me $550 USD including buying autotune. I gained so much experience just in the building of it that by the time I had installed it I was already well versed in how they work which helps so much in EFI. Remember- this is OLDSCHOOL. We dont buy. We BUILD!

Typical of modern cars these days following the 'reverse Tardis' theory...

Great conversion! Loving the graphs. I like economy... I am waiting to see Roman Dave quip in. How did you go about getting those figures. Is it based on calculations using injector open times etc etc? Please explain! Remember though... nothing beats being a full on Barry and having a notebook in your glovebox with mileage and litres noted down every time you refill the tank. Check speedo accuracy (almost every car I have checked is out by at least 5%, more often 10% to much ) Allow for that and you get real world average consumption. I'm at 9.8L/100km averaged over 18000km with the V6. I want more. But that aint bad. Oh and this... "I was initially having issues with the IAT sensor heat soaking and leaning out the idle, causing the car to stall. This was fixed by changing the settings in the ECU so it completely ignores IAT at idle just uses the coolant temperature as estimated inlet temperature. " What settings did you change to make it ignore IAT at idle?

What I find amusing is that the old small utes from back in the day have a useful tray size not too dissimilar to all the common 'penis extension, I wanna be a yank' modern utes of today. 1/4 of the width taken up by these modern behemoths is big flares for the awesomely huge wheels. The rest is ego.

That POR15 you've painted onto shiny new metal.... just check its stuck properly. I reckon that paint is amazing for rusted surfaces, sticks so well and sets proper hard. But on shiny steel or anything already painted it almost peels off. I think they sell an etch primer to help with this but its expensive paint to new steel. Check out Resene Durapox epoxy primer for new steel. Goes along way and great for topcoats. Awesome work you're doing. Not seen anyone in NZ devote so much effort to rusty trump! (and probably not again until Steve begins his marathon on his mk1 wagon... )

Yeah the last engines went to coil pack system. If I was you I'd ditch the dizzy. They have known faults and you'll often see people wanting a replacement ( which is good for me because I have a stash of them) But also you gain extra space to move that engine back plus less clutter above the thermostat area where you'll make a pipe to run forwards below the headers for the bottom radiator hose. If you do go aftermarket then the megasquirt has worked so bloody well on mine. You can give you my base tune to start you off with too (although you'll be doing ITBs? ) I'm keen on trying out the Speeduino on one of my spare engines (among which I have a spare KLZE but that's for a future project idea). The thought of getting one working well on a $100 DIY Speeduino ecu is such a neat lure. Money saved for petrol! The sumps are so easy to modify as well. I love the fact they have so many decent locating points for mounts. It really is just as if Mazda had ideas about making these engines RWD.

Hey there. Looking good. Very interested in following how you approch the EFI (as I'm sure a few other trump nutters on this fine forum will be) SO MORE UPDATES please ! Remember I have your next mk1 Cosworth six race engine outside 'conditioning' so it'll be aged suitably for big horsepowers....

I just like all the pretty colours on those squiggly lines that go up and down when my engine makes more noise.

That's space efficiency right there. Only one of 2 or 3 is going down and drawing in air at any one time. Same goes for exhaust. Why make extra ports? Oh and petrol is heavy so having downwards facing ports is good because gravity. You silly man. Just wait... all the other manufacturers will eventually catch up.

Yeah- Ive filtered through some of the Barry stuff out there on the webs and something about comp ratios being changed via head gasket thickness too. I'll keep a look out for a head otherwise I can just find a decent usable 1256 and have all the power! Oh man... the big block. Plus all the added benefits of the later stronger rockers, head studs etc. The ports are actually not too bad in shape, well at least it appears that way to my uninformed eyes. Or am I being dreamy ? Three bearing crank for max efficiency.....

Well then... the idea of fitting this engine has ground to a halt for now It was raining yuck outside this afternoon so Hannah stripped the head off and removed the valves. While removing the head a couple of valve springs were noted as being quite loose. Loose enough to spin freely by hand. Hmmmm. Bugger. Number two valve removed, an exhaust valve, had a broken spring. Two of the exhaust seats have deep recession and the other two are on their way. You can see how pitted the seat is on the one with the broken spring. Note the amount of recession (probably also had much lapping of valves through out its life by some old Barry owner) Note how bad the surface is on the valve head too. The inlet valves are quite thin having been lapped in a fair bit by the previous owner who rebuilt this engine.. obviously a fair few miles back going by the amount of slop in the guides. With the valve heads pulled out to max lift most of the valves have upwards of 2-3mm of sideways play at the head. Also noted is a repaired crack. This doesn't worry me as usually once fixed they wont do it again. But its not the smoothest repair. Plus there are some bloody hefty scrape marks from some heavy handed gasket removal evident. The block has been bored out .030" with new pistons but has worn enough to have a decent lip. Not so bad its not usable but noted anyway. So suffice to say I am very happy we decided to strip the head off for a look and found these faults now, rather than having fitted the engine only to discover after doing so that its a dud. Saved quite a bit of grief. I have stashed away all the bits and will now re-think the game plan. Considering the engine currently fitted is purring along nicely with its only gripe being a bit slow on the steep hills (I suspect about standard level of slow to be expected though) and that it likes to leave a little mark from its leaky rear main seal, I think I will just happily putt along with that engine for now. The other Viva is advertised and one day it may well sell. Then I can look at re-powers. Between now and then I'll keep my eyes open for another cylinder head in better condition than this one. I'm not sure if the 1256 heads fit straight on? Any ideas/info welcome.

Don't forget a K&N air filter. Extra 20 right there.

Ha ha laughing at wipers. Mine do exactly the same thing at speed. They also do the 'not wiping water off the screen like they are meant to' thing as well. Although I suspect I need to replace my inserts, which although quite new just seem to be really shit. How many ponies do you think that little engine has stashed away ? 140-150? Looking forwards to next years update.

I left the imp. Was more rotten than I thought and I went off the idea. Can concentrate on hb wagon

Gotta have that carbon fiber !

Fuck yeah! I turned up at the yard last weekend just as Jesse was about to load it onto the trailer. I'd not seen it the two weeks prior. What an awesome score. Rusty old wagons! Yes Man you'll be swarming in Barries when you pull up to a service station in this! Looking forward muchly to all the good updates. I too am looking for a dorty, lightweight engine for my wag so interested in what you look find.

Looks really good in there!!! Heaps of room. You could always fit a speedy sleeve (or two.. or three.... ) onto your type 9 output shaft, so taking it out in diameter. If the difference is too much for speedy sleeves then it'll be easy enough for a decent machinist to spin up a sleeve to suit. Wouldn't even need to be a super tight fit, just a nice light interference fit with some locktite 601 to be sure. Or machine up a new bush for the box and fit a seal with a smaller inner diameter. In saying all that, if your driveshaft is not the correct length then it'll be modded anyway, so as you were...

My brother bought an orange one of these in Blenheim back in the early '90s. Bought it from some old boy who had cherished it and wanted it to go to a good home. We hooned around in it, had fun, fitted a roofrack and took it to various ski fields for weekends of boarding. It never let us down. My brother eventually sold it to some Japanese snowboarders in Chch. Last time we saw it was outside Cafe Java all beat up and looking sad. I felt bad for that little car. Cool cars. Enjoy.

I completely forgot about last meet. Should make this one.

Yep...

I shall have a play. But for now I shall continue fucking about with our NZ new Sentra with a GA16DS that has a Carb which only a few countries got. It has three solenoids. It keeps over fueling on light throttle and then bogs down massively until it stops and wont start again. Fuck I hate carbs that try to be all smart and shit. I want to burn this car! Going to fit a Stromberg and make it good...like a an English car Rage!

Are you adding air with the idle air bleed screw or by using the idle control valve? I'm asking because I only use my idle control valve, a PWM unit, to control the warm up circuit. After its warmed up I have set my idle using just the fuel table and spark settings. I'm idling around 13 13.5 and pretty smooth at that, but I get that not so nice rich smell about the car. If I go much leaner, say to 13.5 - 14, then it starts hunting and going a little rough. And how much timing are you pulling? My engine is somewhere around 15 degrees at idle so there is room to pull some and still be close to what I think would be a 'factory' type idle tune? Edit; I must add that I'll never achieve a factory perfect idle, at low rpm, with an inherently unbalanced V6 running a super light flywheel. But its fun to try...

I'm guessing they were not made to fine engineering standards of Britain though? But I'm interested in your experiences. I reckon if an engine starts to smoke because the valves have been made to seal again then it was probably due for a rebuild anyway? We can always have a quick check with some blue to see what they are like before we grind but with all the crap sitting there I cant leave it alone. I certainly don't want to risk a valve burning out due to some carbon getting smacked into the seat. I'll look through my little stash of valve stem seals Ive collected and see if there is something that might work. Considering my current fitted engine is a the same setup without seals and its doesnt blow excessive smoke on start up or overrun I'm not that worried anyway.