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Raizer

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Everything posted by Raizer

  1. Sounds like breakfast to go at Bort's.
  2. Universal cut to length ones are a fair bit cheaper still too.
  3. You'll need some rubber garden edging and rivets to cover the tread if you go narrow. /I'd probably suck it up and get the 4x4 patch panels and zap them on if it was mine.
  4. How thoughtful was Toyota to fan force the drivers farts directly at the rear passengers??
  5. Yeah can change to a thicker fluid in them, mine was fucked that even with super heavy fluid it wouldn't lock up. Thankfully it only cost me a head gasket and a gasket set etc rather than the brand new head to figure that out. Brand new one was cheap enough that I shouldn't have bothered trying to mess about changing the oil. Also the 10 blade fan from late model 1KD Hilux is a big upgrade from the stock 7 blade, @GuyWithAviators is the man to talk to about them.
  6. Injector rebuild ASAP. Even with an immaculately clean cooling system a sad injector will easily take out the head, learnt that the hard way.
  7. That's actually a really good question that I'll try figure out tonight/tomorrow after work! I know there's at least some droop, but yeah no idea how much.
  8. That's a smart idea! Current plan is a combo of trying that along with raising the rear 10mm. Them alignment with minimal petrol in and cert with a full tank for the extra weight haha
  9. Ah so that's the minutes he was talking about! There was some confusion when I was talking about bushings or arms that give X° adjustment and he was saying they'd give "probably X minutes" So you're saying raise it up to 4% for cert, then it'll still be compliant with the +/- 5% variance when I drop it back down and fit camber bushings later right? Think 4% is about 13mm at the guard. I was talking to Mike Reid on Tuesday, seemed good to deal with on the phone at least, but he def made it sound like I'd be wasting my time taking it to him if the sheet is even a hair over the .50°, "but Euros have a huge factory allowance so you'll be fine with it slammed" lol
  10. Yeah knew the 0.50° max over stock. Think it's the MIN being a full degree more than MAX on the specifications that's thrown me off. Tyre shop reckoned I needed to get rid of about 2°00' rear, about 0.5° from the fronts/think he was more concerned about the fucked rack end. Edit: been a long day and my brain was stuck in neutral haha Clicked that it's negative numbers so -2 is smaller than -1, looking at it I'm thinking it's within cert specs, I'm allowed -2°50' rear for cert going by that min being -2°00' So I'm all good right? The right rear toe is going to be a case of teaching the alignment guy how to adjust "not adjustable" Merc rear toe/probably have to take my triple square sockets down to do it but should be easy enough. Then 1.25° rear camber bushings and factory option front adjustment bolts can be added later without effecting cert to try save tyres a bit more.
  11. Any issue with either of these for cert? Lol just realised after posting, they appear to be the exact same arms just with different sticker. Went for pre-cert alignment today, if I'm lucky front camber can be brought into line with genuine Merc adjustment bolts and raising the coilovers maybe 10mm. Rear needs something like 2° less negitive camber, caster just squeaked in spec. Oh unrelated but one of the inner tierods is pulling out of the rack so that's fun. Edit: I've been told by a couple people that should be within cert spec for camber, what's your professional thoughts @cletus
  12. I was always told by my old boss and the engine machine shop we used to run plain water only until 50k after re-torque (we mostly worked on old school cars), then coolant. The MLS gaskets I've more recently fitted are a "minimum of 400km" using plain water.
  13. Keep an eye on SCA for XA welders, they clearanced out all Cig stock a few months ago and I've just seen my local has stocked up with Xcel-Arc accessories, asked and they said they'll have welders etc soon.
  14. @yetchh 56 ohm 5w and 120 ohm 5w resistors for the 3rd gen Surf temp gauge. Replace the factory resistor on the back of the gauge with the 120 ohm, replace the zenor diode with the 56ohm. Been doing a bit more reading about it, it's not just 1kz vehicles with a factory "dead zone" in the gauge, it's most factory temperature gauges, but after a lot of people complaining/panicking about the needle fluctuating a lot in the earliest 1kz models Toyota went ham on the dampening.
  15. "Vehicles modified or scratch-built, that have been de-registered (or licensing fees not paid for 12 months or more resulting in the vehicle's registration lapsing), do not need re-certification if they have their LVV certification plate affixed to the vehicle structure. Vehicles with a modification declaration certificate will need to be LVV Certified, as this certificate becomes null and void upon the vehicles registration lapsing. Vehicles that have only original manufacturers' equipment fitted or modifications done that are below the LVV Threshold need only have re-registration inspection and a VIN number issued, if required." https://www.lvvta.org.nz/faq.html
  16. Look up the 1kz temperature gauge resistor mod. Toyota fitted resistors to really slow the temp gauge down in the 1kz powered vehicles, by the time it actually does start to move above half things are real hot!
  17. You forgot the crystals glued all over the airbag covers for that hippy claymore effect.
  18. Sweet, I'm just missing the countersunk bolt. Thinking of drilling it in line with one of the 2 bolts that hold the disc to the hub and using a longer bolt through the spacer and disc into the hub, if that'll pass/ Centers are snug on the spigot and the wheel bolts are at least 10 turns so that should be golden.
  19. Slip on spacers = no go for cert right? What about press on spacers and longer bolts?
  20. Is the glass cracked badly in drivers field of view or barely held in with masking tape? No? It's fine.
  21. Add the 10 blade fan from the late Hilux to that list too, big upgrade from the stock 7 blades. /I'm personally now in the mindset of not changing oil in the viscous hubs and just replace with a good quality new one and the 10 blade fan, 99% sure the hub is what lead to having to pull the new head etc back off mine at @Geophy's place back in May, had fresh heavier oil in but the actual hub had failed even through it looked perfect inside and out.
  22. Are these the later E throttle version or the cable to TB? If cable type I bet the spindle seals are rock hard and leaking like fuck too. I did EGR delete, intake clean out, catch can etc at the same time, made a rather noticeable improvement to economy. Full 3" exhaust made an even bigger improvement, then injectors and slightly thinner headgasket when I did the head helped a LOT. Think the last trip I did was averaging low 9L/100k open road with some decent hills and twisty bits etc thrown in, totally stock I think it was something closer to 14L/100k but that was nothing cause diesel was under 90c a litre ha.
  23. Butt dyno says my SC picked up a decent bit of mid range with the exhaust and it really improved fuel economy. But even if it hadn't made more power, the extra turbo sounds were well worth the effort!
  24. Seriously recommend getting the injectors rebuilt asap. I bet it's never had them done in it's life. Also full 3" exhaust ha
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