FLAWLES

should help with ideas

about time still have some ms5* crown deluxe badges sitting in my shed that i have been meaning to pm you about. to see if you want them or need them so jealous

is sean parting out the 86? havent herd peep from that large maori in a few yrs

1bar all day everyday

yea i did and it was wayyyyy down on power only jamming out 198rwkw @ 10psi edit before dump pipe and bigger exhuast went on too dont beleave it was maxing the afm out, but to be honest im not 100% sure, the a/f ratios where super sweet ( read rather rich ) all the way through the rev range ) dynoed it maybe two yrs ago now

cheers diddy only get it as its rather handy to me, in saying that on bp 98 it does the same thing will whip plugs out and bring the down to .7 oem ct15b just been hiflowed to fuckery, tbh theres not mush left of it thats factory, dump pipe and 3" ehaust and front mount, rather basic nothing extream

im running hks 35-I plugs which are the same as BKR7E-11 ( i have had them for ages trust me i wouldnt spend $30 on a freaking plug ) was running the ngk plugs for a while but then this issue poped up so changed back to the hks plugs am running gull force 10 fuel, so i am also wondering if thats the issue? 27tho whats that in mm? 0.6??? christ i thought i was pushing it at 0.8

need some help here chaps this has me baffeled ( not hard to do ) under load/boost the vvti 1jzgte sounds like its dropped a plug and makes subaru sounds and simply wont rev i have changed plugs and gapped them to the correct spec's, in this case 0.8, and changed coils to my spare brand new items and changed leads not that long ago, also just to note the first lot of plugs i pulled out where all fine except for number 3 and 6 cylinder they where gammed up with a little bit of oil, new plugs have been in for a week and i pulled them out last night to check them and all are fine under normal driving conditions it runs fine, only when boost sneaks into the engine things play up, from about 4tho k rpm when you really stomp on the go pedaL i have had an issue with coolant dissapearing slowly over time and i am wondering if a blown head gasket is the cause? fyi yes they are the right heat range of plug

where it should be on the cold mark, and sits on the hot mark once up to temp

have just replaced a rb20e automatic transmisson in a rb20e c32 laurel as in teh old box it had lost top gear and reverse since the vl commodore's run rb20/30e the auto's are the same, i picked one up from a holden wreaker, i can only take his worf on the trans working 100% the issue i am having at the mo is when you select either 1st/2nd/3rd or reverse there is no drive ( in the new box ) the only way to get drive is to give the car a big rev and either while revving or on decelerate the wheels start to drive i can how ever put the gear lever in Park and the wheels will not spin all plugs/linkages have been hooked up and are working and to the best of my knowledge the torque converter is sitting on the splines the only other issue is there is a pin hole in one of the oil cooler lines that is leaking but i honestly cant see how that would effect drive can any holden fans/mechs give an insight to what may be going on

rb30ets run an afm do they not? i would be ckecking that to begin with or at lest the conectons, cant remember if they are a hot wire afm or what ever they are called, and are they not also elec dissy? also, this will be zero help as i cant remember exactly what i replaced on this, but my douche bag brother has a rb20e, that did the exact same thing, had fuel to fuel rail, had spark but very very week long story short it was one of the fuel/injector opening relays was sticking, not doing its job fantastic cars mate had a ex ozzy police interceptor vl, was rapid fast hope that helps in some way

why dont you run a electirc actuator arm, one be less fucking around two you can lift a fuck load with them, ( use them on the kioti mechrons i sell ) three there small so you can tuck them away four, a hyd pump system will be alot of fucking around with both pipes and valves, with limited room, as normal rull of thumb is the smaller the pump the dearer it is the other fact your not taking into thought is engine rpm will kill the hyd pump if driving off the engine unless you use a gear reduction box and there is more mula my idea is tops

he is a tin arse bastard haha

oh i see this in toyspeed as well anyhow if you do purchase a vvti 1jzgte, make sure it comes with the afm, and the engine has come out of a jzx100 or jzz30 ( super late model soarer ) as all vvti 1jzgtes after that are fly by wire with throttle linkage, i.e jzx110 and some crowns not hard to change but such a fuck off as i have read there are also some pin outs on the e-nets, and a greater majority of them are incorrect, but a super clued up person like spence and or mike-e on these boards can nut it out, chances are you will be rolling ( want to at least ) with a link if you do need pin outs flick me a pm, as i have soo many, and one of my own that i can send you also my tip of the century is dont roll with the auto and factory ecu........you will never get it to work 100%....and you will be going backwards with your fuel economy faster that what a 7m can pop a head gasket or alistar finishing a project car j/ks chap have posted this on t/s too

give me your fish finder for my boat my ones busted but thats so sweet mark