tortron

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Everything posted by tortron

  1. She tows hard for what she is Got my pick of an 83 going to scrap Better dash, just 2 cracks rather than it being all split, plus it's a lovely tan Owners manuals Complete gen 1 tray, a "little" rusty but within the realm of me repairing it. Bottom of the tailgate is the worst and a few patches around the well side bodyline seam. Might be best to get it acid dipped. Also a bunch of plastic trim and a step end tow bar/bumper.
  2. http://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54612-tortrons-38-mayte-fair-dinkum-mitsi-ute/ When I was a nipper, my dad's mate had a chalky yellow L200 with orange and white side stripes going up the doors and tray. It was the first car I ever pined over and I had hoped it might be mine when I got my license. Instead it rusted out and was replaced by a dark blue 4wd L200 with flatdeck which I liked less. Been thinking about how useful a ute would be, mentioned it to 3onthetree and how I though a Buick v6 would be good in one. This combo was highly applauded and so I had a casual look on trade me at what was available and in my budget. I wanted 2wd Standard ride height Single cab Tow bar Not a flogged out old farm truck Able to do the speed limit This was the best thing I could see within 150% of my budget, was advertised without wof rego. I figured it was a guy who picked it up not long ago Went and checked it out. Fresh wof and rego and new shocks, battery and brakes Bloke had owned it 19 years, a tear came to his eye as I drove it away Built as a shop hack by master motors, this ute has never left Auckland, except to tow the previous owners stock car around. Features a cut and shut later model tray, l300 brakes, nolothane bushes all round, sun visor, power steering and a Holden 3800 with 4 speed automatic Never late with a 3.8 Has had a bunch of rust patched over the years and had a bare metal respray a few years ago so it's still looking pretty good. I also ended up with enough paint to fully respray it if I want. Seller was very upfront about a few little bits that's will need attention. The interior was never finished, so I have a bodged in commadore gauge panel that doesn't work, would like to swap that for an original one, also no carpet, half finished console etc, and an alarm that will reset itself while driving and go off when you get out. All in all I'm super chuffed, I don't really have to do anything to it but drive around and tidy a few bit up
  3. Don't try to church it up sumpsan
  4. The only issue I see is it not re engaging at speed after throttle off So keep twisting? Haha I mean to say, a huge cog can be fitted for super low gears on touring and mountain bike clusters. Usually you remove the smallest and repack it. Never heard of one failing. If you chave the option I would bang in some prongs/grub screws to locate the cog and assist the weld
  5. Common on mountain bikes and touring bikes, bang a 100kg cyclist on a 170mm crank and you have some decent torque. The drive dogs are pretty strong the only issue is them not reengaging when you throttle off. You may even flush the grease out and just use oil instead
  6. Actually I once had a leaky oil pressure gauge which dripped down into the chassis quite well because it soaked through the wooden floor. I recommend cleaning it out as best you can. Rust converter, Then a zinc layer, then cover what you can with something like por15, then cavity wax Morris ankor wax is rated, can also run it on crusty paint to protect patina
  7. i own brit cars and i support cavity wax
  8. Goddam i bet that rides lush on those balloons
  9. Good excuse for a cb radio
  10. get your priorities straight m8, its pretty sweet google it up on the facebooks or soemthing
  11. Did you see Eric's Gvan in the states?
  12. So, steering box had a bit of a leak. ID'd it as a 2nd gen l200/starion/dodge d50 box. ordered a kit from the states stripped it down, input and output seals were dried out, output seal shattered to bits when I removed it. Teflon inside was looking sad and the fluid was pretty dirty tight as to pull it out, but not as bad as it could be cleaned up and resealed back in and bled. went alright actually, but id be a rich man if I were getting paid hourly
  13. Trojan trailer components has a sale on
  14. Make you feel like a man with that between your legs I bet puhuhuhu
  15. This is how close the vn instrument cluster is to the l200 cluster Obviously the gauge bodies won't fit without cutting the housing. I could adapt the l200 glass to the vn body. You would have to cut off the idiot light section and make some mounts. I'm going to put the vn gauges in the l200 body mainly because I have to remake the pcb as a loom because they are old and cracked and not worth fixing and no repos available. This suits me because actual wire and some proper connectors will be much more reliable than thin copper traces on floppy plastic, and more forgiving when removing the plugs as I've damaged the current one by having it in and out too many times. Also, either way I will have to remove the idiot lamps to fit it in. Couple that with being able to get rid of half of them because I won't need them (and most Commodores never used them anyway). It looks like I can use the l200 indicator lamps on the top either side of the speedo but the rest (oil, battery, check engine, parking brake, fog lamps, and high beam and low beam) are going to be a challenge. Either I make a strip up from the vn cluster and install it on or in the dash someplace, or I could use small LED's embedded in the gauges much smaller than the originals and either remember the colours or gave some stickers made up.
  16. No worries, I'm down here during the week, pm me your details and we can sort something
  17. i vote use some spoke washers and monitor the hub flange and spoke eyelets disk brakes are alot harder on spokes than a rim brake spokes are kind of expensive if you need to change the lenghts, bout you could consider changing to a 4 cross pattern if the number is right. If you want i can bring my wheel stand, dial gauges and spoke tension tool down to hamilton, and we can improve the wheel over the machine built spec, itl last better that way, get the tensions right and you dont have uneven stresses iv destroyed a wheel with a 50cc 2 stroke attached to it, it snapped the spokes at the elbow. it was a 50 year old wheel though (built really strong but probably alot of wear) and have torn spokes out on my touring bike.
  18. oh boy bicycle spoke yarns if the rim is single layer then i would trash it, hopefully its got eyelets for the spokes. looks to be a 32 spoke rim. 36 would be better, 42 would be ideal you can decrease the probablility of the spoke tearing the rim and the rim cracking by running spoke washers. dont get bicycle ones, just get tiny washers from an engineering place you could replace them with stainless spokes, i would go for straight gauge, tie and solder them for extra rim stability too
  19. bang a square morris/austin heater in m8 itl fit anywhere
  20. Moo'ing out on the farm
  21. I hear there is a th700r4 trans which is 4wd. So 3.8 conversion m8. Ultimate east coast stealth wagon, no one will suspect the moo'ing to be anything but loose stock
  22. I had my bike frame powdercoated by powdercoating nz in Cambridge. if you happen to get that far down they do a good job
  23. After having no luck with the jaycar speedo correctors (both units never even fired up or anything at all) i ordered a yellow box from aussie. Spliced it into the 3 speed sensor wires and im away, ran a few test modes to see how the speedo would react then set it to read 25% less than it had been since 1991. left the lead long and coiled it up under the shifter console so i can fiddle with it again if i change something, it also has top speed replay. About a week later i was just about to leave my first day of work and no start. starter cranked over fine, but no dash lights came up. it was by now dark and i was in no mood to try get it going with no torch or tools so got aaplus to take it back to papakura. AA bloke was really unpleased at the wiring and seemed to think it was my fault some how, he tapped the relays with the back of his screwdriver and tapped the fuses a little, demanded to see my ID, then told me it would cost me to get it towed. dunno what he was thinking there, but i got it towed back to papakura covered by AAplus, and with the same towie that last picked up my minor. Left it in the garage till the weekend when i could take a look. After probing a few things with my multimeter and hotwiring it to start, i chased the problem back to the fuse box. one of the fuses had blown, but even in the light of day it was very difficult to see where it had broken, and was only found by testing for voltage. It looks like when i was washing down the windscreen cowl to see if my patches were water proof i had gotten water into the fuse box. This happened because the Holden loom has been put through the firewall, through the cowl and not sealed up. this means that under the right conditions the water can run down the loom, and because of where the fuse box was hanging the water went right into it. The last owner mentioned that the drivers side footwell only leaked when parked on a hill, and this is why. i remounted the fuse box in a higher position, where any water coming in will drip off before getting into the fuses, il probably gob some seam sealant on the cut holes and hope it helps. I have since been dailying it and its going pretty well, other than having to top up the fuel every second day, tho i do usually drive around 200km in it a day. I swapped cars with my partner for something more economic (i get paid mileage, but can profit with her car haha) so she has been driving it around auckland, with the seat all the way forward and a pillow to prop her up. It blows barries minds. I took it back this week so i could put it through a wof. The instrument panel is playing up because of the crusty printed circuit degrading, and being damaged from being taken in and out, so just this week i had to get some LED lamps to replace the indicator and highbeam idiot lights because the copper tracks have broken. I have a second cluster at home, but its also damaged, less so and can be fixed with some conductive paint. However im going to live with the hacked up one for now because im eventually going to make a new instrument loom and swap all the gauges etc into an original l200 cluster so it has a more finished look rather than a cluster sort of half shoved in there. Had it die on me out at a farm, this time i had some tools and my multi meter with me, so i found that it was getting spark and the fuel pump/filter was fine, so that had me a bit stumped, so i started checking connectors as the engine check light wouldnt come on. after reseating a few it came right and started right up. I figure it was a connector that controls the injector pulses (cos if it was carbed it would have started). going to get some nice waterproof connectors and tidy the loom up. Took it for a wof today and it failed, i knew it would because i saw the brake machine dials failed on. -left rear brake lens and reflector faded rear brakes imbalance park brake imbalance right front outer tie rod play steering box leak not too major, glad the rust was sorted (well he didnt notice another patch that i found the other day). have ordered a new pair of tail lights (the other side is cracked as well so may as well), picked up the tie rod and il have to open up the brakes this weekend to see whats up. it failed on this last time too according to the sheet i found behind the seats, so i bet they never fixed it and conned a wof pass. also need to measure the shoes to check if they are the slightly larger later brakes or the 200mm originals. Steering box is the only real pain because its not original and is stated as a galant box on the cert, but it seems that they had rack and pinion, but is probably a sigma/later l200/ pajero unit
  24. So over easter weekend i cracked into the firewall rust Gave her a bit of the ol razzle dazzle and filled everything up with rust converter and coated with PA10. banged seam sealer in all the seams. there wasnt any so they were filling with water everytime it rained. Ol mate had jammed some jb weld in the rust holes to stop water getting in the cab and covered almost all of it in black silicone. pulled all that awful crap out and did it right. the firewall had pretty much separated from the A pillar/guard area so was just kind of flapping about, and there is pretty much no original floor left so some of the previous fixes were a bit rough but i got it sorted well enough. coated what needed it with underseal, everything else left in primer till i can spray some top coat/never because il want to take the engine out. Also adjusted the steering stops so the tyres wont rub on the sway bar and steering box on hard turns
  25. http://tradetools.co.nz/search/spot weld iv gotten by using panel steel drill bits and some care though