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yelo76

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  1. And cutting out the cancer continues, the driver's side sill has been chopped out, revealing more work than the passenger side. Here is the front foot well with the patches to the floor pan done. (bar the massive hole under the pedals) And looking rearward, you can se the large amount that had to be chopped out to get back to some decent metal, a bit of fabrication required Managed to get a few bits cut out tonight and ready to go in, time to start welding back together I guess.
  2. Well, may as well through in my 2c as well. Note I am not a professional at this. I have spent the last year teaching myself to weld, I bought a $450 mig off trademe (Pioneer, made by Telwin, but their cheep brand). It only has a max and min setting. It has taken some practice but I am sucessfully welding down to 0.6 panel steel without too much problem. You need to have a minimal gap between joins or it can blow holes that you need to fix up, just take the time to get it fitting right first and you will be OK It is a gasless mig, so yea it does splatter a bit, seems to be better if the tip is closer to the metal. Most of it comes off with a wire brush, and if you want a better finish the grinder with a flapper wheel works wonders. I have also bought a autodarkening helmet of trademe, I don't seem to have any issues with it being slow to respond, but I guess I don't use it for large amounts of time so wouldn't notice the effects as much. See my thread on the car for some results
  3. Chris, Colour scheme, not really 100% decided yet. Budget will play a part in it. At this stage thinking a 2 tone scheme similar to this But with these colours Although I do like the old style with the strips etc on it, with modernising some of the interior and shaving the locks etc, I am moving away from that a bit to someting a bit more modern and different. But hopefully not over the top. Open to ideas and suggestions.
  4. Catch me at work and I will give you some more details. Most of the panel is between 0.6 and 0.8 (Try'd to use as close to what was originally there) I have been using eectrogalv material to try and help prevent rust in places I can't seal easily. Sills I think were at least 1mm thick, got done as a favour by someone. I think some of the people we deal with may be able to help do a couple of homers for you.
  5. Discussion - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21200-yelo76-1974-ta22-celica/?p=543791 Hiya all, I was planning to wait until the panel work had been done, but here goes anyway. What I have started with, A TA22 Celica (Actual year is 1974), has been registered as a TA23 (Previous owner has swaped the chassis plates at some stage). I now have a solid plan for fixing this up involving deregistering it , changing the plates back (As he left the original one in the car) and registering from scratch. Here is the state of it when I got it, didn't look too bad..... (and as the Tui add goes... Yeah Right) Apparently all it needed was to have the wiring for the dash re done and it was good to go, the more I cleaned it up, the more rust I found. Anyway, I quickly realised that it was going to be a back to bare metal job and cut out the rust and rebuild it. Tried getting it quoted at a few places, most wouldn't even consider it due to the amount of work. One guy said, he would charge the earth, why not get a mig and have a crack at it myself. So that is where I am at. Some of the passenger sill and the progress on it. What got cut out of the sill The rebuilt item (Sills were folded up through a work contact for nothing, Pretty stocked about this) One side stripped and more patches done at the top of the pillars. Anyway this has taken a good 6 months to get to this state due to having a young family etc. (Only get a few hours a week on it and a limited budget thus far) Plans for her are: Finish removing rust Shave locks and side mirrors Do as much of the filling and prep work myself Paint (Undecided at this stage, considering 2 tone, silver bottom and yellow with touch of orange candy on the top) New chrome all around 17" wheels (Undecided yet) Engine: 2TGEU to be built (Will run with 2TC twin carbs to start with) Sc-12 supercharger (Setup like Tim Frost's one was) CRO2 cooling system (I don't like big intercoolers and want something different) Deloomed engine bay + Battery in boot Handling: Upgrade of front discs to something larger Change rears to discs Try and work out some way of getting an LSD into it. New bushes all around etc. Interior: Well the door cards I have a pretty rotten, the Dash is stuffed and there is no parcel tray, So I am considering fabricating fibreglass versions. (Going to have a crack at making a mould for the dash) Recover rear seats and some new seats up front New stereo in dash 6" speakers up front, 6X9's back parcel tray, 10" in custom enclosure in the boot (Using the right side well) I know it is a bit of a list, but I guess I am in no real hurry to get there, as Budget allows. The main goal is to get it back on the road. Hopefully before the end of the year
  6. yeh, that was pretty much my plan after giving some thought this week. The identifier is only a rivited on plate (the chassis plate from the manufacturer), there is nothing physically stamped on the car. My thought is to check out the TA22 number and get some history. Assuming nothing unusual, I will deregister the TA23 number and plates. Change it back to what it should be (drill out rivets and re rivet the correct plate on) and then re-register the car with all the correct numbers, getting new plates at the same time. I think this will be the less painful option and gets the car back to what it should be for the future.
  7. The firewall actually has an Australian regulation plate that has the correct TA22 number on it. I have had both numbers checked out through a police contact and they have nothing on file. My only thought is when I get it rolling to take it into somewhere like VTNZ and ask the question. Since I have had it the Rego has been on hold, so I am hoping I can get away with it by pleading ignorance.
  8. Hiya, I am pretty new to this, I have a TA22 that I am in the process of cutting rust out of and rebuilding. I bought it off a guy down contry and during the process of stripping it down for rebuild have noticed that the chassis plate in the car doesn't match the car itself. What I have is a TA22 celica, the correct chassis plate should start with TA22 (And happened to be lying in the car with all the extra parts). The one mounted on the firewall starts with TA23 (The next version of the celica with the longer nose). Sometime in the past someone has changed the plates to avoid the registration lapsing. My question is for those in the know, is there an easy process to go through to get this corrected? who would I deal with? or am I up for alot of pain. Any advice on this would be a great help. Cheers
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