RXFORD

Might help to make a wireframe buck/template first. Can do it with tig wire or gas welding 'panel' wire. Bend the wire to the shape you want, tape/tack weld them togethor, then you can lay paper over in sections to transfer onto Ali sheet.

Re: 620 diff. Do you recall what that 3.9 you scored came from? Thats a pretty rare find. If it was same axle spline then must have been from an old Silvia as the Fairlady Roadster and 1600 Wagons have smaller spines. If you come across another, let me know, I need one for my pickup.

Probably Takanini PickaPart. Theres a rack of them, then a shitload just scattered in the ground. Zebras selection was ok, but I havn't been back there since they reopened recently.

Is an Gtr style intercooler an option? Shorter but quite wide. Instead of having the outlets of the end of the tanks, have them exit back toward engine. Or just run a smaller one so you don't have to change piping but have a water/meth setup as backup?

You need at least 0.5° operating angle on a UJ. Lesser the front shaft angle difference the better but not less than 0.5°. Currently you are at 0°. And max 3-3.5° operating angle on front UJ out of box. Now if you raise the hanger bearing so front UJ operating angle is 0.5-1° (front shaft initial angle of ~4° down) it will lessen the centre and rear UJ angles and still be within the max 3° front UJ angle. Centre and rear UJ's still have pretty bad angles but not much can be done about that without a fair bit of rework. If you set the pinion to ~6° down (flange pointing up) it will compensate for a degree or so of bushing flex under acceleration and get you close enough to where it should be happy. Link design/geometry will play a big part in driveline performance too, but thats confusion for another day.

If the oiling system allowed it, and if I was chasing driveline perfection I would be setting the engine to as flat as possible and remaking the manifold/tunnel etc to suit. Just depends how much work you want to do I guess.

Because you have a greater angle on the gearbox than the first shaft, raising the hanger will make the operating angle of the front UJ worse and its already at 3.5° based on the angles you mentioned on box and first shaft, so wouldn't really want to go any more than that. The lower the first shaft angle, the less rotational pulsation the second shaft will have to try cancel out. The higher the rpm, the lower the operating angle should be. If it was the other way around like most vehicles, for example the gearbox was 3° down and the first shaft was 6.5° down, then raising the hanger would help get the front UJ to a lesser angle. Are you sure the box is 6.5° with carb where it needs to be? Are you measuring that off the crank pulley/sump? Seems like alot. I can't remember what the last rotary I mounted ended up being with the carb level tbh. Post up a rough/close enough angle of the rear shaft when you get a chance. I'l calc it how it currently sits and see what the pinion ends up at.

Is that laid out or at ride height?

What angle is the 2nd shaft on?

Most of the online diagrams go out the window with bagged stuff because they are geared toward the pinion being far lower than the output shaft on trans. Spicer has a good angle calc.

Go take a marketplace Hilux for a test drive and switch them out. Thats what Billy T would do.

The qd32 is just a newer big brother to the td27. Bellhousing patterns are the same and a bunch of other parts like the manifolds are interchangeable so its possible the heads are the same or similar. The 'Td27 Torque' facebook page is a wealth of knowledge so chuck up a post on there.

The only real 'controlled' way to shrink is oxy/acet heat shrinking. You were kinda on the right track, but most likely heat up too big of an area with the butane. Firstly find a dolly thats either the same crown or slightly less of a crown as the panel/area you are shrinking and grab a flat faced panel hammer. Onve you have identified the area thats too full and needs shrinking, use a small gas welding tip (not a big cutting tip) and heat up a small 5c coin sized spot til cherry red, then while its still red, start lightly hammering it. I set myself up something I can safely chuck the torch over so I can drop it and start hammering. The initial blows might have to be a bit harder to dress the swollen centre down, but then for the next 20 seconds or so, just lightly dress the surrounding 50mm radiused area down. It should now be cool enough to touch. It will still be warm, but nothing crazy. The light hammering just helps control the shrinking while cooling in that area. It may shrink slightly more once its completely cooled depending on the location, but at least it won't do any weird shit because you kept it localised and told it what to do. The idea behind the lower crown dolly and flat hammer, is to dress the material into itself, rather than stretch which is what would happen with a higher crowned hammer and dolly. The concentrated pinch would just start stretching again. Don't use any form of wet rag or air to cool it. Just the hammer/dolly, then let the rest cool naturally. Shrinking discs work ok sometimes but it has to the 'perfect' high spot. Once you get good at heat shrinking you'll be set.

Hah, good timing, you peeking through my window!

1 degree is 60 minutes, so half a degree = .30, not .50. Your left rear camber final is 2.38 (2 degrees 38 minutes), which is just over 2.5 degrees, (only 8 minutes over) I'd just run it through as is. The rest is fine and as its close enough that if it were checked again on a machine it could be within.