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Everything posted by Carsnz123

  1. Had a bit of spare time on my hands so I decided it was time for a little work on the mighty Golf. First port of call was removing the carb and giving it a damn good clean because the car has been running like shit for the past couple months. I cut out a new gasket for the 2 halves of the carb but was lazy with everything else and used grey RTV. Next was breaking out the Bosch one way lowering kit. having a extra set of springs from the parts car comes in handy about now. After a bit of measuring I thought lopping a coil out of each spring was a good start. I could probably take another coil out of the rear springs but the fronts will no longer be captive if I make them any smaller. I should just stop being cheep and get a set of coilovers if I want to go lower. It hasn't made a huge amount of difference but the rear end has come down getting rid of the "Stink Bug" stance.
  2. “I have no idea why why i'm doing this, it was a good idea at the time.” The story of this project begins with a little 1.3 Mk2 golf 3 door with a 4 speed manual delivered to MR J.G. Morton of London on the 4th of April 1984. The car was then imported into New Zealand in 1987 with 23000 miles on the clock. It enjoyed regular servicing and maintenance right up until a couple of years ago when someone decided the car was totally worthless and used it as a piss wagon. They drove it up a beach path and into a tree. It was green stickered, dereged and stuck on facebook for $300 which is where I come into the picture. I bought it to nab the trans and make an auto 1800 Mk2 golf a manual. When it was bought home we had a good look and realised the engine blocks were different. Wrong box...shit. A few bits were taken off it to make the auto pass a warrant and the little 1.3 was parked at mums and forgotten about for six months. Now I want to get it on the road. So, are you sitting comfortably? Good. Then we shall begin. First step was to clean the inside of the car out as it was foul. I picked up The seats and door cards out of a GTI off trademe so that saves me getting the originals fixed but the rest of the interior still needes work. Ill get to that later. Discussion is here
  3. I'm not sure where I got this info but I thought I'd share it. First of all some basic info about the F series Diff. Crown Wheel: 7.5" Braking: Drum and Disc variations RA65 Celica = Drum RT142 Corona IRS = Solid Disc MA61 Supra = Vented disc MX73 Cressida = Vented Disc YR22 Tarago = Drum MS112 Crown = Drum Corona Mk2 = Drum RT142 live axle borgwarner discs can be adopted (semi) easily onto some F and T diffs F series ratio info here on Toymods too. To see which ratio your F diff is check out this: Read the Axle Code from the vehicle indentification plate. first digit: ring gear diameter A 138mm B 145mm C 6.25" D 6.62" E 7.1" F 7.5" G 8" H 9" J 9.25" K 9.5" L 10.5" M 12.5" N 13.5" P 14" Q 12" R 162mm S 6.38" T 6.7" U 6" V 10.6" W 15.5" X 142mm Y 158mm Z 202mm - no ring gear = FWD Second, third digits: gear ratio 01 3.30 02 3.36 03 3.545 04 3.556 05 3.70 06 3.889 07 3.90 08 4.111 09 4.222 10 4.375 11 4.444 12 4.625 13 4.79 14 4.875 15 5.125 16 5.286 17 5.60 18 5.714 19 5.833 20 6.167 21 6.667 22 6.78 23 6.833 24 7.64 25 4.556 26 5.571 27 3.364 28 4.30 29 4.10 30 3.727 31 3.909 32 6.591 or 4.807 33 7.503 or 5.583 34 6.781 or 4.786 35 7.636 or 5.60 36 4.778 37 3.583 38 3.417 39 3.154 40 5.375 41 3.308 42 6.500 43 3.550 44 3.214 45 3.533 46 2.928 47 3.944 48 3.356 49 3.729 50 3.400 51 3.736 52 3.722 53 3.250 54 3.941 55 3.333 56 2.821 57 4.058 58 3.238 59 3.234 60 3.519 61 2.724 62 2.892 63 2.655 64 4.312 65 3.837 66 3.071 67 3.526 68 3.095 69 4.176 70 5.857 71 2.962 72 3.949 73 4.285 Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no Code pinions ls 2 2 no 3 2 yes 4 4 no 5 4 yes Example: F372 = 7.5" 3.58 final ratio 2 pinion diff. Will not be stamped on the diff, you will have to check the build plate on the firewall of the car you pull it from. LSD Availability: Altezza LSD's form the likes of Kaaz etc will bolt in but a spacer ring needs to be made up for it to work. Can anyone shed more light on this? Steroidchickens? Tomei Altezza centre into an MS112 Crown = Works, no problem! Cusco Altezza centre into YR22 Tarago = Success! IRS centres will bolt straight into Live axle F diffs so you could use an MA61 LSD but apparently no good for proper driving with small clutch plates and small surface area they aren't very effective and usually well worn out. An aftermarket 1.5 or 2 way or locker is your best bet for grip or drift work. See Kaaz, Tomei, OS Giken, Cusco, (TRD no longer available) Side note for celica/cressida/irs corona - Altezza/RS2000 Cusco LSD was a nightmare for my diff guy into RT142/RA65 IRS centre probably due to the car not being LSD to begin with. Machining and lots of hunting for correct bearings needed. Have been told (but can't confirm) that the MA61 diff centre half shafts are needed as they were lsd from factory and are shorter to suit. Torsen and Truetracs LSD's are also available. Many hilux 4wd live axle ran 7.5" FRONT diffs too 80 and 90's, possibly 2000's. Lots of options from 4 wheel drive aftermarket companies. Cars: MX13 Cessida - 3.9 - 1410mm (Same width as T series/S series/KE70 BW) Tarago YR22 - 4.1 manual and 4.3 auto - 1435mm Uses a G series (Hilux) diff nose flange bolt pattern (60x60mm) All other F series is 55x55mm) Crowns: MS110 Solid Axle (coils) F362: 7.5", 4.77:1, 2 pinions, Open 5x114.3 1450mm Solid disc MS112 Solid Axle (coils) F292: 7.5", 4.10:1, 2 pinions, Open 5x114.3 1450mm Solid disc MS123 Semi trailing arm IRS F285: 7.5", 4.30:1, 4 pinions, Clutch LSD 5x114.3 N/A Ventilated disc, 1 piston calipers MS50 Solid Axle (leaf) F292: 7.5", 4.10:1, 2 pinions, Open 5x114.3 unknown Drum
  4. Seeing as I'm doing some tidy up work on my bike I might as well share it with the OS crew and let you bask in its amazingness. To start off with I'd better run over the last 18 months. Chapter 1 - Purchasing October 2015. I'd just got my licence and was now looking for a bike. I was after something with some legs for touring, under 600cc for cheaper rego, classic for ease of maintenance, and under $1500. On trademe was listed "1986 Honda Rebel 450 - No wof, No reg, No worries!". The sort story is it was an insurance wright off which 2 owners previous had started to turn into a bobber. The bike changed hands a couple times with minimal work done on it. Then i got my hands on it. I went and looked at it, had a mate test ride it, did a bit of haggling, and by the end of the day I had it on the trailer heading for home. Over The next two months I fixed the issues with it including plugging exhaust leaks, replacing the front tyre, replacing the dodgy bar clamps, cleaning the carbs out, poorly tuning it for the modified exhaust, and making the speedo cable longer. A week before Christmas it passed compliance and was ready for summer cruising. My brother and I spend a few days riding all over Banks Peninsula. The weather was epic, the roads were quiet, and my bike didn't miss a beat.
  5. Currently I'm stripping the bike down for a re-wire, new carbs, new exhaust, and a bit of a restyle. Being a California import the engine, fuel tank, and air box were hooked up to a carbon can because hydrocarbons and environment. Anyway its all been ripped off and put in the bin. I've stripped the carbs and exhaust in prep for replacement. A couple 32mm Mikuni carbs off an RF400 will replace the old 30mm Keihin carbs. They require a bit of modification but if it was easy everyone would do it. I'm still undecided about the exhaust but I'm leaning towards having the pipes on one side above the crankcase. The old pipes are rusty, dented and pretty much good for scrap. The battery box is being replaced with a 30 cal ammo can which will also house any fuses and relays. I picked up an old headlight which I later found out is off a D4 Caterpillar. It's built like a brick shithouse but looks awesome. the mounting bracket is a chunk of 1/4 inch steel that I'd like to use on the bike. The gas axe at work assisted in disassembling it in prep of a halogen unit to be fitted.
  6. Browsing through my photos of the bike I've come across some of the fails that happened When I first got the bike it had these awesome but sketchy as fuck brass bar clamps on it. It got pinged during compliance for excess movement between the triple clamp and the bars. Whoever made these homebrew jobbies did a halfass job of making the clamping surface round and the mounting bolts didn't sit properly in the triple clamp bushes. the crushed down dynabolt sleeves were an attempt at packing them out which was a major fail. A small exhaust leak which I thought was a loose nut was actually a broken stud that someone had decided the appropriate fix was gluing the nut on and making it look ok. While taking part in the ANZAC day charity ride the rear brake torque arm bolt sheered off under hard braking. Due to the way the brake operates as the backing plate rotated it pulled the brake on harder and harder until something gave way. It was a rather scary ride but all over in a second. Parts are not easy to find as the bike uses a lot of model specific bits but a modified xl500 front brake cam serves as a replacement.
  7. Chapter 3 - Winter After solving the majority of the oil consumption I continued to use the rebel daily, took it on a few day trip, and competed in the end of season drags at Ruapuna. The more I used the bike the more things broke and needed fixing. It was a constant battle. Due to kms I was doing I was doing oil changes every month, the 15 year old rear tyre and chain were fast wearing out and the suspension bushes had disintegrated. The tyre and bushes were replaced but I have yet to touch the chain. I used the bike on and off during winter when the weather was clear. When the Ashburton lake got a large dumping of snow I decided to go for a day trip out there. The scenery was epic, the hills were silent, and it was a little chilly but I enjoyed myself. When the rego ran out at the start of spring I put it on hold and focused on my Golf as the bike needed work doing to it.
  8. Chapter 2 - Queenstown I may have lied a bit about not missing a beat. The Banks Peninsula trip showed up a couple problems the main one being the tune. It got further and further out and kept dropping off onto one cylinder at 100k. The wrap on the exhaust looked cool but was hiding a terrible. The exhaust had rotted out and required a new section to be added in. After fixing the exhaust and re jetting the carbs it was time for another roadie. I wanted to go over the crown range so a trip to Queenstown was organised. The problem was I had to be at a riding cause in a few days and the weather for the rest of my Christmas leave period looked a bit rubbish so we only had 2 days to do it in, no problem. Pack racks were hastily knocked up out of bunnings alloy box section and steel bar lying around the farm. I also stripped off the last of the pipe wrap and painted the exhaust black. My poorly designed pack rack proceeded to break during the trip and by the time we returned to Christchurch it was held together with string and duct tape. No joke, that's literally what happened. Also what became apparent is the engine seals didn't enjoy doing more kms in 3 weeks than it had done in the last 10 years. The valve stem seals were leaking so much I burnt all my oil during the trip. Top end rebuild time
  9. The last time it was out was taking me to kindergarten. To put that in perspective I'm turning 21 this year. And Harry your grammar needs work.
  10. Photo time!!!! I thought I'd do some drag racing in lieu of any actual work. Best ET was 17.931@74.05mph. It will be interesting to see what it will do with the 1.8T.
  11. For me it was a quick fix that has become semi permanent. the hardest part of changing the thermo switch aside from getting your hands on the right one is not cracking the tank. 30 year old plastic that had gone hot/cold is very brittle.
  12. It doesn't surprise me your fan is on a manual switch as the thermo switches on those pack up quite often. Both mine and my brothers ones are on manual dash switch. the water pumps on the 058 block are also known to die and produce crap water flow. chances are you're radiator is half blocked also. My crown wagon randomly tried Chernobyling itself on one day, took the radiator to get flushed and they said it was very blocked and they were surprised it was cooling up until then. I can do the same trick I did to my brothers one and rewire it to run a stand alone circuit with a 2 stage switch on the dash if you want. You'll have hi and lo speed but you'll have to remember to keep an eye on the temp gauge and turn it off when you shut the car off. As far your oil burning goes put a liter of Morey's heavy duty oil stabilizer in it with the next oil change. I used this in a 40% mix for a Camry which burnt enough oil to be considered 2 stroke. bit of Morey's reduced the consumption by 2/3.
  13. 1 month in of driving. The gearbox is making bad noises, the carb is not working properly but running in a reasonable AFR range so its ok, all the door and heater vent seals leak and it fills up water, IT IS SLOOOOOOOOOOOOW. 45kw makes it no rocket ship. Time to change that. Watch This Space...
  14. Hoonigan have cottoned onto your build. Awesome car, wish I had the coin to build something this awesome.
  15. So, a little welding, hammering and cursing at springs (damn you Volkswagen and your multi spring rear brake setup) later the new wheel bearings and brake shoes were installed as well as a couple extra hangers for the exhaust. It went for a recheck earlier in the week and today I picked up some plates for it. So now its road legal HOORAYYYYYY With new plates cable tied on I, as any sensible car enthusiast would, decided the first thing on the agenda was to go blasting up the main street of Ashburton with the little 4 at full song. The car was dirty as shit but it had the desired effect as lunchtime shoppers looked round to see where this symphony of amazingness was originating. Agenda item no.1 marked off the next step was to address the issue of rather neglected paint. A bit of aggressive cleaner, water blaster, car wash and super sheen later and the car looks much better, not great but better. A bit of before and after The maiden voyage of sorts will be on Sunday where I shall embarrass myself with my noisy piece of dented gloriousnss at a large euro meet.
  16. $660! cant really argue with that. Or you could get the really budget $300 JOM ones from VW heritage. Its a pity you didn't put this up last week as I ordered some brake bits for my mk2 off VW heritage, could of combined shipping to bring the price down. Let me know how your suspension journey goes as I'm planning on some upgrades along the same lines.
  17. Well my lack of action on the rear end bit me in the ass. It got chucked out on noisy rear wheel bearings, terrible rear brakes and the exhaust pipe moving too much. plus the high stop light was flashing with the right indicator. I must have wired it in wrong . So it's off to buy brake bits and do a little wiring.
  18. I decided to pull the brakes to bits to inspect them, in hind sight this was a bad idea. The rear linings were down to minimum, rear wheel bearings and seals were on their last legs, a CV boot was split and the front discs were heavily pitted from sitting for ages. The rear was cleaned and reassembled (it works so it is fine for now) but the front required action. Upon inspection the diesel discs, pads and calipers were in good condition so I spun the discs on the lathe and cleaned them up with a bit on emery paper and then all was installed. While I had the brakes apart I replaced the CV boot and cleaned and re-greased the CV itself. It was the first time I pulled a CV to bits but it's really simple. So with everything bolted up it got loaded on the trailer and dragged to Ashburton. I put it up on the hoist at work and gave the underside and engine bay a steam clean, probably removed a few kilos of dirt and yuck. Hopefully the list from the compliance place isn't to long. For all anyone knows this pic could of been taken in the 80s
  19. IT'S VINNING TIME!!!!! I Bolted in a basic interior consisting of door panels, seats and dash. No need for anything fancy. The original gauge cluster had Chernyobled a few components resulting in nothing working so the diesel parts one was sub in. the kms have jumped up 100,000 (no I can't be assed pulling it to bits and winding it back) but everything works and I gained a clock. Plus it has a redundant glow plug light which might make people confused.The diesel parta also donated various nuts and bolts, a straight front bumper and rear seat mounts.
  20. Discussion For Golf build
  21. man that penny took It's time.
  22. Quick update in minimal work. Turns out my little 1.3 has an Audi 50 distributor on it. With broken dizzy cap and rotor in hand I walked into Butler Auto (best place to find rocking horse dung in Christchurch) and got a replacement. Timing back in spec and she runs great...except at idle. More problems to fix. I went on an excursion to pick a part looking for wheel and brake parts. Didn't find brake parts but there was a set of Mk3 D slot steelies. They need a lick of paint but the slightly increased dimensions make car look a little more in proportion. Tyres, Grille, Lights and seats then VIN. Cant wait to take it for a run over Dyers pass
  23. The Parts, The Project and The Work Horse Bucket seat for extra... er... race-car-ness?
  24. After changing the air filter, cleaning and re gaping the plugs, setting the valve clearances which were almost 3 times what they should have been and tweaking the idle speed I had the little golf running smooth as a fancy gold watch. It was running so well I decided to go for a quick squirt up the road. It accelerated well, sounded good and road well. The gearbox has a massive jump between second and third, almost feels like there should be an extra gear in it. Pretty much now its just needs the electrics sorted, new tires and the seats bolted in and it should be ready for vinning.
  25. The oil looked like it hadn't been changed in a while and the inside of the motor was a bit grimy so a bottle of flushing oil was put through the engine and after 10 min of idling and subsequent overheating due to the fan deciding it didn't want to work (more electrical issues... great) the inside of the engine was all shiny and clean.