1963 AP5

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  1. Yes indeed, it actually needs the ride height sorted out.
  2. Share your thoughts, comments and ideas for the AP5. Cheers
  3. Funny you should say that, it's exactly what I was thinking. Upon close inspection the lower control arm bushes are not in great shape and the radius rod bushes are shot. Lower ball joints were done a couple of years ago so they might be one thing I keep.
  4. I wasn't going to start the suspension work for a couple of weeks but I had some time this afternoon and decided to get stuck in. @Valiant was kind enough to send up his homegrown upper ball joint removal tool and I was itching to try it out. I tried to remove the joint with the upper control arm still installed in the car as a couple of members had suggested but it was super tight and I had no hope of moving it. I think this was mostly due to the fact that I was only using a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a 3/4 drive adapter. It might have worked if I had a proper 3/4 drive breaker bar. I persevered for a while but I was afraid of slipping and damaging the front wheel arch or guard so out came the control arm and I decided to go big and get some proper leverage happening. The control arm bushes require replacement to I ripped out the guts allowing me to pass a piece of round bar through. Next I held the removal tool in the vice so I could hold the ball joint and had a go at turning the control arm around the ball joint. It took a couple of good swings but I heard a delightful little crack and the joint started to turn in the control arm. Once it started to turn it was easy to remove the joint using the breaker bar and removal tool. After giving the control arm a bit of a clean up I installed the new joint. I had a bit of fun getting the joint to screw in straight but a couple of OS members who have done this job before told me to expect this. After few false starts the new joint started to screw in nice and straight and actually went in fairly easily. While I have the removal tool in the workshop I think I will do the other side so I will see my friends at BNT tomorrow and grab another.
  5. It's time to waste a whole lot of time and money that should probably be spent on other stuff. Some people on the forum will know our 1963 AP5 Valiant Regal but for everybody else who is interested here is a little history. My Dad purchased this car in 1983 and it was our regular family car for many years. Here is a photo taken some time in the early 80's. Dad had 2 AP5's at the time, the grey one on the right was a dedicated tow vehicle and was modified accordingly. The green one on the left is ours. About 7 years ago we were lucky enough to get our hands on this original and well looked car however a few things needed attention fairly quickly. Almost immediately we did a few safety upgrades. The car got a front disc brake conversion, new seatbelts and we replaced the wheels and tires in order to make it safe to drive in the rain. Until fairly recently I was hanging out on another forum dedicated to the fine products of the Chrysler Corporation with a few other members that have since come across to Oldschool and unfortunately a lot of the details of the work completed on the car to date was lost when the forum closed earlier this year. Lucky for me the Oldschool forum is awesome and I am very happy to be joining you all over here. This is how the car looked after its first round of upgrades. We drove it around for a while with the stock drive-line and aside from a little oil burning/leaking issue all was well. Then this happened. This was coolant leaking from a very bad place, yep cracked block! So naturally this happened next. And finally with the help of a local engine builder here in Auckland this happened. Sounds simple enough but it actually took nearly 12 months to resurrect the Slant 6 as the engine was in bad shape. We were very keen to salvage the original block and keep the car numbers matching but it was no easy task. I did as much work myself as possible but given the challenges involved in fixing the engine I was very happy to be working with a skilled engine builder and I am very happy with the result. This engine is awesome and it's still a numbers matching car. That's all for now, next post will be all about the current build. Feel free to discuss here. http://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56384-1963-ap5s-valiant-regal-discussion/
  6. I noticed that I was starting to wear a groove in the negative battery post by disconnecting and re-connecting the battery. I don't trust the 54 year old electrical system in the car so I always disconnect the battery when I park the car in the garage. I have decided to install a battery isolation switch and I would like to be able to operate it remotely (without opening the bonnet) to make it slightly more convenient for regular driving. I had this switch kicking around so it will do, pretty sure it is a marine switch for a boat but it has a very high current rating so should be perfect for the Valiant. The first thing you want to do when modifying a switch like this for remote operation with a push / pull style rod is to make things way more technical than they probably need to be. I cut a leaver out of a piece of fiberglass sheet that I had left over from another project and glued to to the switch knob with some hard core marine epoxy. Next I made a bracket to mount it all in the car. I had a nice piece of angle that looked like it would do the job but it wasn't quite big enough so I got brave and broke out the little arc welder. I don't weld very often so I am always stoked when I successfully stick bits of metal together. And here it is all ready to go in the car. There is room to mount the switch below the battery tray out of sight and I plan to operate the push / pull rod through the grille removing the need to open the bonnet every time I drive it. Should be way more convenient and will stop me from destroying the battery terminal posts.
  7. The replacement joint I have is the thread in type and I am confident I can change it myself. Looks like a helpful OS member can hook me up with a socket so should be sweet. The home grown solution shown above is pretty cool too.
  8. That would be awesome, I am happy to cover postage. Home made sounds properly dangerous.
  9. Really needs to be a socket as the upper control arm is made of pressed steel and is turned up at the edges. I guess it would be easier just to find a suspension shop with the right tools and get them to do it but if I can get my hands on the tool I am keen to do it myself.
  10. I purchased the required suspension parts this week. The upper ball joints on these Mopar A-bodies are funky looking things, they screw into the upper control arm and the thread is more like an interference fit than a proper machine type thread. There is a special tool available for removing and installing them however the tool costs 3 times as much as the replacement ball joint so I am keen to know if anybody has a good alternative option for competing this job. If somebody in Auckland has the tool and would be happy to help me out installing the joint I would be extremely grateful (beer will be shouted). The proper thing looks like this. Please feel free to post suggestions or offers of assistance in my discussion thread http://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56384-1963-ap5s-valiant-regal-discussion/
  11. OK I actually did some proper work this weekend. I have had these old doors sitting behind my shed for a couple of years now. They are rusty as hell but the glass is pretty tidy so I dragged them out and set about removing the useful bits. Amazingly all the bolts and screws came loose with no problems at all so no broken bolts, screws or knuckles. The glass all came out intact so I added it to the other bits of glass that I have collected up over the last couple of years and cleaned it all up. The glass is not perfect but it is a whole lot better than what is in the car so I am very happy. Big thanks to fellow AP5 freak and all-round GC @64vauxhall for helping out with some of this. The stainless trim from the old doors was also worth saving so I salvaged it all for the parts hoard
  12. Hey I had problems with the rear brakes on my AP5 a couple of years back. After pulling nearly every part of the brake system apart I found that the rear brake hose was the problem so this could indeed be the issue with yours. When I removed the hose from the car I couldn't even blow air through it. My rear brakes were sticking on and would release if you let the car sit for a while.
  13. Did it have any positive effect? I have been told that a lot of inline 6's with a carburetor actually benefit from having a functional heat riser.
  14. Yep can confirm that you can have problems when you take away the manifold heat with a std carb, especially in colder climates. Dad always said that headers make bugger all difference when fitted to an otherwise standard engine and you are better off with the factory exhaust manifold. It will however sound way cooler with the pacemakers! I have heard of people adding a water heated block where the factory exhaust manifold bolts up under the intake manifold to help add the heat that the carb wants.
  15. So here's the plan. Last time I pulled this car apart it was a major, it was properly broken and couldn't be used until a whole lot of stuff was fixed. This time things are different as the car is running great, has proved to be very reliable and doesn't really need anything major in order to keep it on the road. This project is all about fixing up a whole lot of little things that are bugging me and I want to starting getting the car finished to a higher standard. The to do list: My friendly WOF guy politely suggested that I should replace the upper control arm bushes and one of the upper ball joints before the next warrant check so this will be done. The weather belts on all the side windows need to be replaced as they are all in bad shape The side window glass is all pretty average as well and I have collected up a full set of replacement glass for the car so all the side windows will be replaced. Door seals are leaky and looking very shabby so all will be replaced Door cards require some attention to repair and replace the trim clips that hold them on, a couple are held on by screws that don't look too flash. The stainless trim on the side of the car also requires some renovation, a couple of them are held on by rivets so they will be removed, repaired and refitted with new trim clips. There is a little bit of rust showing in the left rear guard and this will be repaired before it gets nasty. I am sure I will discover plenty of other little things to tidy up along the way but I want it all finished before the start of summer so will do my best to stick to the plan.
  16. Yea you are right! There are a few good videos on YouTube of some nutter with a turbocharged slant 6 running some insane times down the quarter mile. Just goes to show it can be done.
  17. That is actually the sensible option
  18. That is interesting. The casting was very thin around one of the welch plugs on my engine. It may have been that way from day one as I suspect that manufacturing techniques weren't as good as they could have been 50 years ago. I doubt it would have always had corrosion inhibitors in the cooling system over the years and eventually the thin area cracked and leaked. It was quite a challenge to fix as it is difficult to weld 50 year old cast iron that is thinner than you would like it to be. Welding guru however got it done and the repair has held up well so far.
  19. Yea it was the Mopar forum. Bit of a shame they couldn't keep it going but I see quite a few members are now active on this forum so I am in good company here.
  20. Is the engine stock? If so there probably wouldn't be a significant performance improvement with a 350. If you rebuild the Carter nicely, get it set up right and working properly I expect that it will be capable of supplying all the air/fuel that a standard engine can demand. Since you already have the Carter it would be worth a go.
  21. I run a 350 Holley on my one with the factory 2 barrel manifold, the adapter plates are available off the shelf for around $30 so its hardly worth the trouble of making one. I went that way because it's a very simple conversion and 350's work pretty well straight out of the box on Slant 6's. If you have a Torqueflite transmission however you need to get a little creative to make the push rod linkages down to the trans work properly. Anyway to answer your original question, of the two carbs you have I believe the Carter is the preferred option for a lot of people and they work just fine if they are in good condition. Sometimes the older carbs can be difficult to fix up because the shafts and linkages etc get worn over time. As above the Weber 38 DGAS should also work well.
  22. Joke may be on you guys, I lived in Christchurch for the first 25 years of my life so I am very familiar with all local rituals. It's what I have learned from the people of the north that could be real scary.
  23. The lads in Christchurch have come through big time and I have a sweet little SR Corolla organised for the Hanmer trip. You folk all love Aucklanders right?
  24. I have my buddies in Christchurch working on locating an acceptable mode of transport. If we can come up with a suitable vehicle I will be keen to come down and do the mission to Hanmer.
  25. Here you go, not sure if this is for an Australian or NZ car but maybe it will be useful to both of you. I know at some stage they went to a full electronic distributor (no vac advance) so this diagram will not be applicable to all models. Bronze, maybe you can start a thread in the tech section as I am sure members on here will be able to assist you with your LPG de-conversion.