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1963 AP5

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  1. Looks like the large jet holder is still available overseas Primary Idle Jet Holder for Weber 32/36 DGAV, Large Size - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies 52570.011 - Jet Holder LARGE fits Weber 32/36 DGEV DGV DGAV DFEV DGES (carburetion.com) and Weber Performance in Australia still sell the larger jets to suit the 34ADM. DGAV DGAS ADM Weber Carburettor Idle Jet (larger primary) Weber Performance Carburettors Have a look down the carb barrels on a 34ADM, you will notice that even though both have 34mm butterflies the venturi sizes are very different between the primary and secondary. Insufficient air velocity through that big secondary venturi can be a problem on small engines unless they are fairly heavily modified and screaming. The carb is really designed for larger capacity engines (4.1L Falcon) but was a popular swap for modified engines with smaller displacement simply because they were cheap and plentiful back in the day. Mine works great on a 3.3L Holden 6. I have never tried one on anything smaller but I have heard of people having success with them on modified 4 cylinder engines.
  2. You are correct, not all 34ADM's have the 2-stage jet, only the ones that were equipped with emission control gear. The 34ADM has a very large secondary venturi and I think that is why it uses a very large secondary jet. Some small engines struggle with the Weber 34 because they simply can’t get enough airflow through the secondary venturi to make it work properly. For this reason, the 32/36 is often a better option for engines under 3.0L. I believe the secondary venturi is actually smaller on a 32/36. I have never actually worked out the fuel economy on the Holden, but I expect it is similar to the original Rochester carb (certainly no worse). I think the Weber is more responsive than the original carb but to be fair the original wasn’t working properly and that’s why I replaced it with the Weber. I simply couldn’t get a kit to overhaul the original carb so the Weber conversion was a good option. It’s been running trouble free with the Weber on for around 5 years now.
  3. Thanks for your kind words. The second link was for a special large jet holder that fits in place of the original 2 stage low speed jet solenoid assembly. They used to be available off the shelf but maybe there isn't enough demand anymore to keep making/selling them. It is possible to make a suitable jet holder if you measure up carefully and have acess to a lathe.
  4. Here is an example of a transmission with the Starion extension housing fitted. Between the N/A transmission that you already have and the wide block turbo version you should have everything you need to make it happen.
  5. A few pictures for you, looks to be in reasonable order You will need to swap over the extension housing from your N/A transmission to get the shifter position correct for the Starion.
  6. Nice, it's all yours. If you don't have a use for the N/A narrow block flywheel and clutch, I can give it a good home. I have a feeling @MaxPower may have the flywheel that you need for your wide block turbo engine. He has a fine stash of Mitsubishi goodies so it might be worth touching base with him.
  7. This might be helpful; you can measure across the bellhousing at the lower bolt location to see what you have. The photos below show the difference between the transmission found in a lot of N/A applications and the turbo version.
  8. Hey just a thought and maybe you have already thought of this but your N/A transmission may not work with the turbo engine. I believe that N/A engines are often a narrow block design (but not always) while the turbos are a wide block. The bellhousing may not bolt up to the turbo engine so it might pay to do some measuring to see what you actually have. The gear ratos are also diferent for the turbo engine. I have a transmission under my workbench that I believe is a wide block Turbo Starion item so let me know if you want to grab it. Free to a good home if you are willing to collect or ship it from Matata in the Bay of Plenty.
  9. When I first started following your build thread I have to admit I thought you were mad and there was no way the car would ever see the road. It seemed like a basket case. It looks like you are well on the way to proving me wrong so well done. This is going to be an awesome car!
  10. For what it's worth I like the Hotwires, I've never seen a Mustang with Cheviot wheels on it before and it makes me smile. Gives it a down under feel! Loving the car - well done so far!!
  11. Mate good score! I used to drive a Z32 2+0 T-Top back in the days before kids arrived. I want another and I am pretty sure in my case it is definitely a midlife crisis thing This was my one
  12. Yep I have certainly run it at WOT. I have my doubts about the accuracy of the gauge, you can see in the picture below that it doesn’t sit at zero without the engine running so it is probably under reading by a couple of pounds. The real number could easily be closer to 7.
  13. Well here it is the first run! I have to say I am impressed with the Holley throttle body fuel injection system, the set up was simple and the engine started first turn of the key. It drives pretty well and I expect it will only get better as the self-tuning software dials everything in. Currently only making about 5 pounds boost but is already a huge improvement over the N/A set up. I will run it for a while on low boost while I get the tune sorted and then install the 15% overdrive pulley to see what happens.
  14. On the final stretch now, I got the layshaft finished off and installed and finished off the belt drive. I also fitted up the electric fan to the radiator and refitted it to the car. Filled up the cooling system and amazingly had no leaks. Also as an extra little insurance policy I have installed a stand alone knock sensor to hopefully provide early warning if anything is going horribly wrong. It's a product made by Link and simply has an indicator light that is green when all is well and red when things are going pear shaped. I now have a nice little set of instruments in the centre console so I can keep an eye on what's going on. I think this will be running any day now.
  15. So here is the big news. When I started this project I had intended on modifying a Holley carburettor to run with the supercharger but I have decided to do something different. I started investigating options for EFI systems and landed on this. It's a Holley 2300 Super Sniper EFI system. It bolts up anywhere a 2 barrel Holley fits and is suitable for use with a draw through supercharger right out of the box. Got it bolted up to the manifold today and installed the throttle linkages etc. Got to do some wiring now. The last photo shows just how little real estate is left on the passengers side of the engine bay with everything installed. It took a bit of figuring out to make all of this fit.
  16. Updates are coming thick and fast at the moment. Got all of the manifolds installed and refitted the distributor. Also installed the last of the supercharger brackets so everything is nice and secure, you can now see how much fiddling around was involved in getting all of this to fit nicely in the passengers side of the engine bay. Now to get the fuel delivery system installed.
  17. Thanks, I dont have the air control vale as described in the Previa info that you supplied as my supercharger did not come with it included. I am wondering under what conditions the ECU activates this valve. It looks like it keeps the ports sealed when it is not energised and when the ECU energises the solenoid it vents the bearing housings to atmosphere.
  18. Quick question that I hope someone can answer for me. The Toyota SC14 supercharger has three hose fittings that I think are there to vent the gearbox and the forward bearing housings. Can these simply be vented to atmosphere or do they need to be plumbed into the manifold on the low pressure side of the supercharger? My supercharger is minus the factory pipework so I am not sure where these are connected on a factory set up.
  19. Now I am making real progress! I had all of the gasket faces on the manifolds machined flat because everything had distorted just a little through all the welding processes. I installed all of the fittings and hardware on the inlet manifold including a backfire valve (just in case). Made up some gaskets and installed the manifold and the supercharger on the engine for good this time.
  20. Once again, a while between updates but progress has been made. I set about building the lay shaft carrier assembly to replace my plywood mock-up and made the drive belt tensioner assembly. I very intentionally over engineered this stuff because I don’t want it to flex and kick the belts off randomly. Still got to get a steel shaft made up with keyways machined in it. It’s a bit of a creative way to drive the little blower but it looks like the belt drive system will all line up nicely and should be plenty noisy when running……….
  21. Been a while between updates due to other stupid life commitments but I am back into the Mitsi now. A little while ago @MaxPowerwas kind enough to let me scavenge a few odds and ends off an old Sigma shell that was heading for the metal recyclers. Among the treasure was a good battery tray. My car was once running on LPG and the battery tray was butchered to make way for LPG system components so it was good to find a new tray. I also installed a remote battery switch that can be operated from a push/pull rod under the bumper so I don't need to open and close the bonnet to disconnect the battery.
  22. I came across this fine example at an event over the weekend. It's a 1951 model so not quite the same as yours but I thought you might like it all the same.
  23. Hacking up the manifold resulted in the removal of some water fittings and I needed to reinstate the removed cooling system components. I had a nice piece of aluminium under the workbench so decided to make a custom fitting. The lathe is a fairly new addition to the workshop, a couple of friends very kindly offered the use of workshop lathes however I decided that I had enough work to do to justify buying my own. Also I haven't used a lathe in many years and I knew that everything would take forever. I have never tried to make anything like this before but I think came out pretty well.
  24. Now to figure out how to get drive from the crank to the supercharger. This was always going to be just a little Heath Robinson involving 2 belts and a lay shaft to bring the drive aft about 180mm. I mocked it up using thin plywood, hot glue and a piece of dowel and after a bit of mucking around I have the basic dimensions sorted. Now I can start fabricating something more substantial in steel. I also machined up a small pulley to accept bearings, this pulley will be the tensioner for the lower belt. The upper belt shouldn't require an additional tensioner as I can tension the belt when I position the lay shaft assembly. I am expecting this drive set up to be very noisy indeed!
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