Get it done

Be careful that the glycol in the anti freeze does not expand the seal and cause it to pop out etc

Also made a wind chime to annoy the missus. made from an old clutch disk , flutes are are from and old intake manifold project and the bell knocky thing in the middle is a yanmar digger piston . I will balance it a bit better later.

Made a bird house out of scrap wood from the old fence

We have had similar issues , couple of things to try and check are the guazes in the first banjo fitting at the lift pump for obstructions, also check the fittings on the filters between the tank and pump. might pay to chuck a clear hose between the tank and pump to check for air bubbles. the lift pumps can suck in air and I’ve found small pieces of wood stuck under the diaphragm allowing fuel to flow back to tank. check the tank breather is clear. Make sure the battery is fully charged to ensure the solinoid is seeing full voltage . nice project, it’s going to be a beast .

What has been said , the welding process will shrink the plug , an bar will allow you to turn it . just make sure you let it cool first

I removed the valve and left it upside down out side for about six months before I used it . i did drain the big bottles when I made a cannon, don’t get the dye or smelly stuff on ya or you will stink for weeks. then lots of hot soapy water and store upside down, lpg heavy than air etc

My boy loves checking the mail box every day so I surprised him with this. he thinks the coolest part it taking letters out of the arse. should rust up good.

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Are you guys open to peeps turning up with non Oldschool cars etc ? have been asked by a coupe of interested parties recently.

I bought a l28 years ago and this was the problem . after installation of taller valve caps it was all good . The cam had a really aggressive grind and was a lot smaller. my 2c

Convert a aircon pump to use as a compressor and use a fire extinguisher as a air tank , about a 1kg is compact enough. works mint in the winch truck.

Does anyone have plans for a home built car rotisserie please?

Transpecs or Bnt can get them , but talk to the brake Certifier guys or you will be talking to a brick wall. they come standard on there abs and ebs kits.

Cm trailers do a side mount brake line Master cylinder that will eliminate 90% of crushed line during loading and unloading, especially relevant when using a mini digger as the diper arm with clean up bucket attached sits on the drawbar.

Old trailer screw compressors are a viable option imo. they usually rust the trailer body rather quickly compared to the unit hours. so you may end up with a low houred unit with a rusted chassis for minimal outlay . I did this and scored a unit with 400 hrs for 700 bucks. Keep it for about 8 yrs then put it back on home built traile and sold for 7 k , then bought a cabinet screw compressor just for the quietness. a screw should be your end goal , once you screw there’s no going back.

With a blaster you need volume along with pressure , the less of both you have will result in more media being used with less of a result . ive used the set up your looking to use and trust me It won’t work as you will expect. i would recommend maybe looking into a hydro setup off a grunty water blaster to use for home blasting , less dust etc and set up costs are reduced , you can also use a water blaster for a hell of a lot more after the job is done. also less heat is generated so it equals less chance of warping . my two cents.

Dry air an lots of it ,a screw compressor is a must. a lot of people over look the dryness of the media which will cause blockages and freezing up of the intake . thats the beauty of a screw compressor , you will have a lot less water through out the system. you can hire screw compressors from lots of places that do fibre UFB . just temp them with beer

I have seen Simalar results to the timing of airbag faults in the past, a common alternative was to connect the wiring to the oil pressure this signaling the light to go out after a pre determined time .not ideal !

From memory the range rover ones are fomoco items found on the jag also . They tend to be unreliable due to water entering electronic parts.

Could this be caused by the metal still holding moisture? Warming the metal before applying it , in a bake oven or something similar to dry it out thoroughly would help surely?

You need the factory provided service tool.

Chase exausts , or wurth do a range also.

A good trick is to adjust the shoes , then pump brake pedal and adjust all over again to centralise the shoe. The smaller the drum generally the smaller the notches on the adjuster , so a couple of clicks out can mean heaps of imbalance. Standing the glazing off the drum with emery tape by hand can also help bed the new shoes.

If you require an extra set if hands or some help in general to get it done in time let me know