Gozza

All the bushings are superflex ones from Witors, and I can’t remember the name of the dynamite pack I got but I needed two of them and have some leftover if that helps narrow it down

It’s about time we went out for a couple of hydraulic sandwiches isn’t it?

And keen for Sunday all going well

I’m super keen now the trumpy can get a good thrashing!

You were supposed to be working on the ignition table not taking pictures of my ugly mug! Thanks so much for taking the time to answer all my stupid questions Alex, and for a reasonable amount of the inspiration to give it a crack after watching the viva build... I’m pretty stoked with how it goes so early on and really looking forward to getting it spot on. Cheers for the pics..

Al, I did it all the hard way with paint stripper, acid wash for the rust... never again... It took fucking ages and did my head in. If I ever do it again everything will go to the sandblasters. For paint I used Resene Industrial 440 etch primer and Acrathane 805 topcoat. Totally recommend this for anything... painted an engine with it too and it still looks mint after 5000 miles. Top stuff

Azzurro, I have salami fingers that shake like an out of balance helicopter so you’d probably be able to far exceed my standard by a reasonably healthy margin! You can probably do what I’ve done quite cheaply if you scavenge the parts and do all the machining yourself. I bought all the sensors, pump etc brand new and farmed out the machining to a good shop. All in I’ve dropped about 3k on the EFI which is a hell of a lot all things considered but I know it’s all new good quality stuff... I figured that I didn’t want to be questioning whether or not any of my inevitable problems were caused by my work or shit sensors/plugs etc. the bonus was that I’ve been collecting all the bits slowly over two years so I’ve hardly noticed it...

Hi Alex, yep caught up with Stuart and agree he’s a GC... Had my list of questions all written down and he clarified all quite well and steered me in the right direction. Will probably have to get a little more advise as I start getting closer to starting the thing but so far it’s all good. That bag of bits was pretty daunting but once the basics are understood it actually starts to make sense... kind of!

Then it was onto the computer... Dont know how many times I read the manual whilst getting myself more and more confused, but finally I just thought fuck it, and ripped into it. I’d learned enough to ask for a bit of help a couple of times to clarify some pretty simple shit that I just wasn’t understanding for some reason and once I’d got my head around the basics it was a simple matter of pouring myself a stiff drink and making a start... One bottle of whiskey later.... Moment of truth... Cant fucking believe it... I just made a computer and so far all the smoke is still inside it somewhere! Off out to the garage I went with my new toy, plugged it in, hooked up the laptop, opened another bottle of whiskey, took a swig, turned the key and... No smoke and everything seems to work, TPS, MAP, MAT, Coolant Temp, fuel pump started up and ran for a few seconds like it’s supposed to, etc... Early days yet but so far so good!

Starting the big job of figuring out where all the wires needed to go. I chose to use the relay board that DIYautotune sell as it seemed like a good idea... not really a fan of the screw terminals but time will tell I suppose... making progress And all finished and tucked away up under the dash...

So some of the tasks I still needed to do were to fit a trigger wheel to the front pulley, terminate all the wires from the engine sensors at the relay board, build the computer, and a hundred other small jobs including a few redos... I sent my pulley down to Grant Parker at GP Engineering, he’s done all the machining I’ve been unable to do and he does an absolutely primo job... I decided to mount the trigger wheel onto the damper despite knowing that it’ll fuck up my timing if the bonded rubber fails... I had a good look at the thing and it seems to be pretty mint so not too worried. Only reason I went this way was to make it look a bit neater... After fitting the trigger wheel I took the damper down to the guys who did the machining on the block to get it balanced. Feels good knowing you’ve done all you can to get a top quality job...

Fuck I’ve been useless at working on this thing most of winter... so much work related compliance bullshit that’s needed attending to plus all of life’s other tasks that I’ve not had much time left over... Time for a catch up. First off, cheers to Alex for the super 9kg gas bottle stove he and Hanna built me For the garage. If I had gotten round to fitting it in the garage already I might have made some more progress on the car through the long winter nights... But alas, not yet

Actually disregard that... just realised that's a no go

That's what I'm aiming to do Alex except that I plan to send the signal wire through the DB37 plug. This requires that I solder into SPR1,2,&3 on the board and I want to find out if the little traces on the board between those inputs and the plug itself are up to the job...

I'll try.... so, wasted spark, 6cyl, 3coils, each with two outputs. obviously need 3 BIP373 driver things. I was thinking of mounting the drivers remotely outside the megasquirt case and am using the relay board that came with the megasquirt and was going to mount the drivers on that, it just seemed cleaner. This way I can keep the high current switching out of the case and away from the brains... question basically is the re the signal wires that need to go to the BIP373 for spark A, B, and C that come off the top of the little resistors R26,R29,R27, I was going to jumper them into SPR 1,2,3. Is the little pcb trace between spr123 and the DB37 plug up to the task or do I need to strengthen it? sorry if it makes no sense, I'm a bit out of my depth at the moment... plentry more questions no doubt...