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About Ashkellybarr

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  1. Winner!
  2. Cheers for the suggestion, seems like that could work. Their cheap as well, $20-35 the only issue now is finding a 25t wheel made from steel. all the ones I've found are alloy or Ti
  3. Yeah I did think a push bike sprocket hanging out the side of the head would look pretty mad max haha im trying to be a Jew to get the thing done and in haha theres a place across from work that dose water/lazer and milling stuff on contract to manufacturing shops. 'Lmaybe I'll go over for a yarn at lunch
  4. Or trim the edge down of their spacer?? lips not that big
  5. I asked a couple onto it people about this. Using push bike sprocket. All said cause the teeth tapper to an almost point/curve their not ideal as hall sensors operate better and clearer with straight edges. i did wonder if you could get a moto sprocket and lathe the end of the teeth off to give a sparser edge
  6. Cheers! I'll have a look at them. Haven't actually got started yet so I'm open to suggestions still. it seems as though their trigger wheels are designed to fit only their alloy crank pulleys, so I'd need to buy their setup im not looking to spend much, think I can get it sorted with an off the shelf trigger wheel, and make a spacer for less then $100 if I get their pulley/spacer/trigger wheel it'all probably run over +$200
  7. After fluffing around with what to do about engine speed pickup I've scrapped the idea of running VR input in favour of hall sensor and crank trigger wheel. next was what hassle free bolt on were available. theres the t3 trigger wheel. Witch is cheap and looks nice. But it only fits on their alloy pulley, and worse part cause it fixes to the back you can't run the lower cam belt cover so I'd haft to fluf around and mark out new timing position reference points. decided I'll run it on the front instead. no cheap products off the shelf I'll haft to make something up. consistion of an alloy spacer/insert that mounts to the factory crank pulley using the tapped holes already. from there I can fix a trigger wheel to the front. see if I can lathe it up at work to save moollar
  8. Making progress slowly. picked up another new piston to replace the odd one witch is sweet. so just needs machine work and its good to go together! bought a mega squirt kit and made the most of the rainy weekend. pretty happy with it so far, more simple then I thought to get together. Although i jumped the gun and put the MAP input on the wrong side witch is amateur AF. with no solder sucker I can't get the bastard out either haha ah ffs Open to suggestions for that seems people have had trouble with the VR input of the CAS, I've been talking to quite a few people trying to get some solid info but I'm getting different answers from people with mixed results. Unsure if I should dodge the an of worms or persist with fingers crossed
  9. Back at it, silly season and other cars have seen this slow. Out with the old, in with the new. x3 new over size Pistons installed. x1 I've had trouble with tolerance, my rods top falling a tad to tight, and new piston/pin falling a bit over the threshold, I've got anouther on order so should be sweet. Heads nearly done, just need to go over the ex ports with the final grade to get a smooth surface and it'll be ready for assembly. as it stands with a TRD 0.8 HG it will sit at 10.11:1 comp. ideal for what I'm trying to acheave as its the daily beater, turning over on start up and sidies on a cold motor with any more comp might make for a pig of a daily. might be some taken off the head/block but that's up to the machinist. And doubt it'll go over 11:1 of need be
  10. Super lame factory option
  11. Then I'll get your other tank off you and do the same Thought about PWM on fuel pump for low rpm and idle? I know some powerful factory cars do it to extend pump life and stress on the system
  12. Ah yeah, and first time I've seen in the flesh too. Super clean man! Nice car
  13. I remember Barry Manon posting something about the pulleys and a possible solution so maybe flick through his page. He'll probably be able to sort brand new spankers too... $
  14. Couldn't sleep so jumped on the calculator. Writen it up so that it'll help others too Ratio's j160 (s15 6th gear) - F code diff J160-3.9 195/50/14 6500rpm 1st - 44.63kph 2nd - 79.49kph 3rd - 116.5kph 4th - 141.36kph 5th - 172.98kph 6th - 225.41kph 3000rpm 1st - 20.6kph 2nd - 36.69kph 3rd - 53.77kph 4th - 65.25kph 5th - 79.79kph 6th - 104.03kph 55kph 4th 2529rpm 95kph 6th 2739.4rpm J160-4.1 195/50/14 6500rpm 1st - 42.45kph 2nd - 75.65kph 3rd - 110.82kph 4th - 134.47kph 5th - 164.45kph 6th - 214.41kph 3000rpm 1st - 19.59kph 2nd - 34.9kph 3rd - 51.15kph 4th - 62.06kph 5th - 75.9kph 6th - 98.96kph J160-4.3 195/50/14 6500rpm 1st - 40.48kph 2nd - 72.09kph 3rd - 105.66kph 4th - 128.21kph 5th - 156.81kph 6th - 204.44kph 3000rpm 1st - 18.68kph 2nd - 33.27kph 3rd - 48.77kph 4th - 59.81kph 5th - 72.37kph 6th - 94.34kph J160-3.9 205/50/15 6500rpm 1st - 47.5kph 2nd - 84.6kph 3rd - 123.99kph 4th - 150.45kph 5th - 184kph 6th - 239.9kph 3000rpm 1st - 21.92kph 2nd - 39.05kph 3rd - 57.23kph 4th - 69.44kph 5th - 84.92kph 6th - 110.72kph 55kph 4th 2376rpm 95kph 6th 2438.5rpm I've go something cool turning up later this week, won't be in for ages (year or so) as that has its own head aches and things to figure out. But for the ultimate goal it looks like the altezza 3.9 ratio is the go As far as I'm aware the tezi CWP can swap into a solid axle case, the pinion just needs a spacer and to set..?? If so then that's all good and I'm on the look out for one of those. Since the new motor will be in for cert and I don't want to cert twice there's no point in turboing a 4A so all that stuff can get sold. And I'm possibly swapping the 4AGZE for a high comp bottom end, so at least I've got a cam'd small port with 11.5:1 to run around in for a year or so till I get all this gearbox, motor and diff jaz worked out, done and funned
  15. Oh and I won a DYO 19.6 with a 19.65 hahaha Epic day!