Ashkellybarr

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About Ashkellybarr

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  1. Ooo snazzy Couldn't fit the rubber cap with the offset of the cig lighter. ill see if I can mod it to fit the original cig lighter head to look oem. if your wondering why I'm pissing around with these little things it to keep me entertained while I wait for molar to roll in haha
  2. Even more shiny
  3. Also swapped out the cig lighter for a USB port. I stopped by PB tech and picked up a USB extension I'll cut the end off and solder to the USB panel mount fitting. means I won't have gay useb cables hanging out from under the glove box or trying to get my head under there to plug one in
  4. Started on wiring. friends building an e36 rally car Atm, never new but they run a quick release harness from factory. basiclly a kiddy lock squeeze and twist at the fire wall and then the engine loom comes undone. so if pulling the motor out, there's no unplugging things off the motor. scrored one off a shell he's wrecking so I'll build that into the loom. being carby there's really only Ign, timing trigger and o2 sensors feeding back to the ECU so not much to re-pin. main thing I'm concerned about if the extra wiring for the system, I'm on the hunt for a engine bay fuse box from a similar year yota with more fuse and relay outlets. probably from an EFI ta63 or ma60 or the likes. then repin it into my car and then I can add the added feeds and fuses into the factory loom. Will be a bit of work but I think it'll be worth it. ive pulled an Aw11 and ae111 loom apart so I've got plenty of spare parts and doing it for a job your think I could do a good job
  5. Been off the road for a wheel with a leaky wheel valve and an indicator relay that gave up. Relay is one that doesn't change flash speeds from jaycar, I'll pull it open and see why it gave up, wouldn't think it would be loading with only two lamps but maybe. other shit storm is the last place I haven't removed rust. you can see it's eating into the seem where the two layers meet, and has made a hole so waters getting into the drivers foot well. the masking tape is the area I'm thinking of cutting out to get at the rust and repair. My welding skills aren't great and I want a good job of it. i found a bloke by the name of chris grant that seems onto it so hopefully he's not to busy to help and I can get it sorted. after that it'all be rust free and sealed up and I can focus on getting that motor in
  6. Oh yeah, I'm not putting the 7AGTE into it anymore btw
  7. Little bit more progress. going threw what to retain and what won't need to be retained. couple differences like the preface lift engine lid catch is off set. witch is good as it needs to be to clear the intake manifold. nots: chrome button thing marks centre on red car http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=hnciv0xq.fdu.jpg facelift centred http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=acjwxqsi.dxj.jpg so I'll need to unstitch the mount on the white one and swap them over engine lid is facelift SC witch from factory are supercharged. as a pose to modding my mint one I'll make to with the one off the red car. Probably cut more out and re do the fibre glass to look factory and pretty Other thing is the rear fire wall between the rear boot and bay. would be nice to simply cut the one out of the red car and weld it into the white one but I'll run it pass the certifier as I'd hate to get caught out. http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=mhevydvu.rq2.jpg the rest is just time needing to be spent. Remove everything, clean the living shit out of it, paint is gloss black. Maybe some gold NASA looking heat foil shit on the engine side. i want to retain the evap and charcoal can as well so that will all go back on http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=hadhaoc2.uno.jpg
  8. Progress
  9. Chopped a bit more out the rear to get it sitting a bit flatter. picked up some 15" ssr meshies off a mate for peanuts sweet cause I can swap the centres over to my flashy 8.5" barrels too had a geez at yota fest at a couple trigger setups. photos from a 3tgte rina and look exactly like what I need. ill use the factory pulley as it's harm balanced etc etc. but for the spacer to sit flat I'll need to lathe the inside surface down and possibly tap the lip off. only needing water pump and alt I might be able to cut the front grooves off as well aaaand I was making coilovers but ended up finding some already made on AA60 stubs so should have those here I couple weeks too
  10. Winner!
  11. Cheers for the suggestion, seems like that could work. Their cheap as well, $20-35 the only issue now is finding a 25t wheel made from steel. all the ones I've found are alloy or Ti
  12. Yeah I did think a push bike sprocket hanging out the side of the head would look pretty mad max haha im trying to be a Jew to get the thing done and in haha theres a place across from work that dose water/lazer and milling stuff on contract to manufacturing shops. 'Lmaybe I'll go over for a yarn at lunch
  13. Or trim the edge down of their spacer?? lips not that big
  14. I asked a couple onto it people about this. Using push bike sprocket. All said cause the teeth tapper to an almost point/curve their not ideal as hall sensors operate better and clearer with straight edges. i did wonder if you could get a moto sprocket and lathe the end of the teeth off to give a sparser edge