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nickrock

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  1. I would research some type of glue or filler the aly will warp to hell Try some plastic steel you get it at repco i know a panel beater that used it to fill a hole in car roof where arial was he was very happy with the result
  2. Is some one doesnt grab it i could well be interested
  3. Thoes auger type log splitters suck they get stuck in a knotty bit of wood and can be a mission to get out the spear ones work well you just retract the ram and the wood falls off
  4. If i remember correctly super cheap used to sell the kit with the wire and the handles that grip the wire It was some years back
  5. nickrock

    PAINT THREAD

    If you just clean it up and por it the rust will be back soon only real way is to remove it and weld in new steel when you clean it up there will be several more holes Used to do that stuff on weekly basis
  6. I have set of footprint brand brought them in mid 70s and still cut nicely thin slivers of panel steel no folding on the edge
  7. Only if they are old school ones
  8. Mate of minethats a old school panel beater has a gun like thing that has a carbon rod and uses that to heat small spots to shrink them but tends tomake the spot quite hard ( iguess it tends to add carbon to the steel) worked well on mynose cone that was a bit streched in the front
  9. Pm me if you want it that way I will see it
  10. When your ready to change the front springs I have a porta power ram with a hollow ram you shove a screwed rod through the ram and the top shock mount to a plate ( lost the plate ) and compress the spring If you want to borrow it
  11. Cut the bits out section by section small tacks then cool with the air gun that will dramatically reduce the warping and small sections make it easier to fabricate at home the 3 tools I use the most are all air powered 3inch cut of blade its that thin that if I have to cut past where the patch will be its easy to weld up the cut , 20mm belt sander with 60 grit belt for cleaning up rusty steel removing paint around the weld and grinding up the weld it doesn't chew up good steel as much as a disc grinder and more like a scalpel than a machete and a small rotary burr to get in to the small radius that the belt sander won't get in to Patch more than just the obvious rusty bit as it will have crept along the seam When you clean up the rest of the screen area if you see small rust spots its more than likely just starting to come through from the inside get the burr and remove it if you go through so be it just patch it or a years time it will break out and piss you off I have done dozens of them mostly jap cars
  12. nickrock

    PAINT THREAD

    Depends on what paint you buy 2k has a harder and you don't use a clear coat it is your cheapest option , base coat clear coat is more expensive and requires more expertise in getting a good finish you will need the correct thinners , total body shop in lower hutt will sell you all the stuff mixed to match your car I have a super cheap gun I use for primer its ok
  13. having to recert isn't the end of the world. I think people are more scared of it than they should be. but maybe selling your 304 and buying a chev would not be all that different cost wise and less work to do. if you want to tweak things more later I would definitely be considering chev, more stuff available etc. but maybe you prefer the sound of the holden motor, or just would like to have a holden with a holden motor? basically you just have to decide what you want, neither is right or wrong. It w's more a case of I got the bits , I really don't need another project just a bolt in and go plus no where to park it but outside and its super tidy
  14. That a bigger cause I got a 304 and trans sitting under the bench It comes with a fully rebuilt auto that works like a AMT would a injected Chevy be ok with out a re cert
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