AALAWS

POST THREE of Three: I got some thicker heavy duty shrink wrap of a sparky mate to be the dust cover on my outer steering column - looks pretty noice. Fitted my new smaller brake booster and master, clutch master. It's pretty dang close to the strut tower, but a little manipulation of the firewall should pull it out a bit more. Fitted the steering column dust seat and the outer column along with the new hydraulic pedal box.......all fits very nice. Once the steering box is in it will be ready to roll/steer and the final panel touch ups/flare fitting can be done before I figure out my plan/$$ for paint.

POST TWO of Three: Also gave the dash area and inner firewall a coat of black - having it body colour means potentially having some orange showing through. So like the front headlight panels, having it black makes for a better finish IMO. It was then time to modify/recreate the firewall panel to account for the new hydraulic clutch and brake booster mounting holes. Took the old one and marked out a new one, added a few new holes, a lick of paint, reattached the insulated backing and we're away...

POST ONE of Three: I have two steering boxes so i stripped one to get the gist of it, cleaned it up, bought a few new seals etc, gave it a lick of paint and it'll be ready to go once I set the backlash and fill it with oil.

Now to list ALL the things I have done to this in the last 6 months......not much. I've struggled for motivation due to many things, but am starting again with a little by little approach. I've wasted too much time trying to figure out the perfect plan and what to do next, then second guess myself and think "oh this needs to happen before I can do that, but then I'll actually need to do this first" and so on and so on around in circles. I've avoided doing stuff because I don't want to do things twice, or keep taking bits on and off, but today I just said stuff it - just do some stuff, little by little and get moving. Today I simply fitted my doors and fenders and made a plan for a few other things. over the last few months I have achieved this: 1) Turns out the crossmember I purchased years ago with the modified mounts for a 4age were actually completely wrong! My reconditioned AE86 engine mounts and brand new cusco mounts will now be up for sale....so I cleaned up a factory crossmember I had and fitted it with the KE Conversions kit. 2) tyres kept going flat, fitted some inner tubes 3) cleaned up and primed the inside of my doors 4) bought a parts gearbox to swap the tail section onto my T50 - this is to maintain my factory shifter position and centre console. 5) cleaned up and painted a petrol tank 6) cleaned up some fuel lines next, I'll order my flares, get my steering box rebuilt and then start fitting the dummy engine etc to see what firewall holes/brackets are needing modified deleted etc.

Gave it it's first real shakedown a month or so back. Drove it fairly hard out to the coast, could have been harder but was wanting to be a bit conservative with her....... I got to 10 mins out of Kawhia and she spat all her water....bah!! Found some water and nursed her into town and then eventually back home. Diagnosis was a loose hose, not one I had touched previously, and a possible crack in the overflow tank which turned out to be nothing. On to the good stuff - picked up these mufflers cheap. A local oil rep had them for years and wanted rid of them - he bought a crashed Z to turn into a stock car and the previous owner had only just fitted them so score! Gave them a polish and fitted them - nice change to the sound right away, got that nice burble when you come off the gas. More Gran Turismo goodness.... Also fixed my rattles in the cabin......kind off.....decent stereo and speakers to drown them out. Out with the old. and in with the new Just need to figure out how to keep the sub from moving without doing any obvious damage.... Velcro doesn't get a decent grip/work on the carpet and the targa straps don't work......any solutions fellas?

I get a bit of this with the high idle when cruising through town and it feels like it drives a bit by itself...

This is how it sits at the back of the engine - I'm assuming air flow is from right to left so would you remove the hose between the air regulator and the IAA unit or bypass the everything from before the air regulator? The throttle cables across the plenum seem pretty good - the throttles were closing up nicely when disengaged if that's what you mean?

not sure...... and answered ha ha......could it be a timing thing?

I've been trying to fix the idle with varying success. It's been sitting at around 2000rpm, even at a warm idle, so I got a second hand IACV. I stripped it down and thoroughly cleaned it and fitted it on Friday. I let it run up to temperature, unplugged the ACC solenoid and tried to use the Idle adjust screw to drop it down to the recommended range - even done right up - nothing changed. If all things went to plan, the idle would have been around 650 and then raised to the reccomended base idle of 700 with the ACC reconnected. This not working suggests either an issue with the throttle bodies or a vacuum leak. From there I checked the angle of the TPS and managed to get it to drop to around 1000rpm, but once I got it home after it got a bit warmer it was idling back at 1500rpm - a overall drop of 500 from before so a small victory. Today, after some more reading, I checked the resistance across the solenoids on both the new and old IACV's and ran 12v across them to see if they clicked and engaged. They all ran about 2 Ohms above the recommended but still engaged so no major issues there? "First off, check the solenoid resistance (don’t forget to clean the connectors first, as your readings won’t be accurate on an old corroded connector). FICD => ~22 Ohm AAC => ~10 Ohm". Mine were about 24 and 12 ohms I then cleaned the throttle bodies and checked they were correctly aligned. The passenger side intake hose had a small crack, once everything was clean I smeared a little gasket goo over it just to be safe. And the result after all this? Idle is now down to 1200rpm and the radiator fan isn't kicking in as loud too which is a bonus. Still not 700rpm resting idle though..... next? clean out the air regulator? pressure test for a vacuum leak? If I'm going to fit a decent exhaust I don't want to have a loud drone on idle. I'm a total noob at this so learning as I go - any Z32 guru's out there with some answers?

New radiator and rear hatch stickers. Old radiator was a calsonic brand.......felt a bit bummed I've lost a piece of Nissan racing heritage from my car, but i've gained another 10hp with the turbo sticker

Months go by...... Car went to my mates workshop to replace the rocker cover gaskets, ignition plugs, Japanese manifold heater lines delete, and a few other bits and pieces. It sat there for months, getting a little progress, but between his fucked back, no staff, covid, workshop floods, roller doors falling off, trees over driveways........ it never got finished. So I took it to the local Nissan to finish up. New Wof and ready to go now. Gave the cam covers a clean up. These cars came with a heating system to keep the manifold warm in colder Japanese climates so we took the opportunity to delete these - thought about deleting the EGR too but left if just to avoid any future hassles. Tidied up the cowel panel and wipers and got it back to the workshop, but not after one other small scare....... Once Nissan assembled it all they noted a high idle so I have a new idle control valve on the way, and it had developed a water leak. The turbo coolant hard line had sprung a leak.......removing this means engine out.....FARRRRRRKK. Mechanic was able to sleeve it with some hose for now - so I'm planning a proper engine rebuild/refresh for sometime in the next few years, so until then its cruise and enjoy. Ordered a new radiator too so that'll go in soon, along with some good sounds hopefully. Just waiting for now before getting some wheels. Theres a few rattles and creaks I want to eliminate before I head out for a lower profile tyre.

Maybe I didn't fuck up the mounts on my diff then after all

Good spotting! funny thing is that it is neither that floor or diff that are in the current set up, but noted the positioning of the wheel! I'm just going to run with it until everything is built up and see where the dust lies..... who would have guessed an 40yr old car and swapping/bastardising parts would be problematic

went up home with the worker to measure everything up based of the repair manual..... Everything was square and nicely aligned etc BUT Leaf spring mounts are sitting 10mm forward based on factory specs.......which isn't cut and dried because the image of the chassis in the manual was of the 2 dr sedan so meh! Anyhoo - rear wheels (which had different profile tyres and exaggerated the issue) were swapped to the front to get her rolling - I'll sort the rear axle "issue" another day.

yeah - just went up to the house with my worker to measure everything up. From what I can tell, everything is centered and aligned re: the chassis and the mounts etc, if anything the floor has maybe been put in a few mm forward, but it is even. The tyres are different profile on each side so that is exaggerating the issue, but the axle is sitting a bit off centre........I think it'll come down to seeing what it looks like once all the weight is in the shell, maybe using a shorter shackle for the rear spring mount to pull it in a bit... worst case scenario I get some new springs made up?