BLIZZO

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About BLIZZO

  • Rank
    batteries charged
  • Birthday 06/11/87

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    Male
  • Interests
    Making beer, drinking beer, pouring oil into my triumph, cleaning oil off my garage floor

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    Manawatu

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  1. so direction changed so this a bit, i have been pining an ADV bike for a while, and after talking to a few barry's about how rare a genuine R80 G/S Paris Dakar is im going to bring this thing back up to its adventure orientated globe trotting glory, with a few modern twists. The Frame will get some HPN spec bracing, the front end will be swapped for a DRZ400 front end, i may go to a repro PD single seat and probably lower the stock footpegs a bit to make it a bit more comfortable to ride standing up, and i plan to take this thing where coffee shop dwelling ADV fag barry's wouldn't usually go. I have already picked up a nice stainless high exhaust for the bike, it goes up and then sits horizontal and goes back a bit further than what i think would look nice, so its gunna get chopped a bit so the muffler section is on about a 20 degree angle similar to the HPN rallye mufflers. This is the DRZ parts bike i picked up, the forks are still conventional so have the "classic" look but are 49mm as opposed to the measley 32mm BMW forks, they also have much better springs and valving. They will be shortened by using a 75mm spacer inside, i will use a DRZ / RM wheel with the suzuki brake and caliper, just with an aftermarket bigger 320mm disc. The only problem with this swap is the triple trees have 15mm offset, compared to the massive 32mm of the BMW triples. I am looking out for some RM250/125 triples which have 24.5mm which is about perfect, because they are USD triples they will just need spacers in the fork hole to pack them out so they clamp down on the 49mm stanchions. Apparently it makes them handle soooooo much better, so looking forward to that. At this stage im still just hoarding parts before i pull it down, need to get escort out of the shed which is going as i have realized its way too fucked an i CBF250 doing anything with it, then ill have some space to rip into this thing. looks like its going to be a fun winter project! cant wait to have it done and then smash out some awesome adventures with Action Waggy!!!!!!
  2. So the last thing i need right now is another project, but this came up for far to good of a deal to pass up on so i jumped on it. Its just parked in my parents shed and will stay like this for a while until i save up some money to throw at it / get other projects out of the way / have spare time. But keen to start hoarding some parts soon anyway. So as it is, its a 1986 BMW R80 G/S. Shes pretty rough, but runs mint. It was stolen and recovered and has a broken ignition and rattle can paint and has sat outside for a year or two and is pretty tatty. I went to the cop shop and verified the last registered owner and have a letter from him and the cops so hopefully revin shouldn't be too much drama. Does anyone have any experience revinning a modified bike? I love how its a GS as it has spoked wheels which i think is lush, im unsure if this is a genuine Paris Dakar model as they usually had a dirt bike type front guard and a single man seat with extra rack, this does however have a genuine Paris Dakar model 32l tank, under the paint it sill has the original decals which can be seen on the shitty facebook photo from the ad. anyway here is bike- At this stage i am totes unsure about which direction to go, at first a thought maybe restore to original adventure spec and do lush rides like this - but then i thought nahhhhh cos its missing a few original things like the pack racks, ignition, hi rise exhaust and that just does't look so coooool. At the moment im pretty sold on doing a scrambler build, but still road legal and comfy and complete enough so some awesome touring rides. Id like to keep stock airbox. At the moment im just unsure if ill keep the Paris Dakar tank (which is very large and may be hard to get the whole bike matching it when scrambler spec and actually look lush) or go down to a normal sized R80 tank. Id be pretty keen to keep the dakar colours with the white tank and orange seat. here is some inspiration anyway, also, please tell me all of the things, i am new to these airhead thingys / never built a bike before
  3. second event for the year smacked out on the weekend. This time a short 2km there and back shootout sprint similar in style to the ashley forest rally sprint. I was a bit hazed after 2 weeks of drinking baiju / soju in china / korea on a business trip so didnt think i would preform well, that all soon disappeared after a coffee and a redbull. I took the first run pretty casually and then started feeding it. the official results aren't out yet but looking at them on the end of the day I was fastes (only) A class car, i beat all B class (0-1600) cars other than a motorbike engined hillman imp. Which i was pretty stoked with as there was a very flash starlet with a 1300cc 2age and some pretty serious suspension mods (equal length 3 link with watts link, motor set right back into firewall etc. I was 3rd overall 2wd behind the imp and Peter in his BMW. I even managed to beat 2 imprezas. All because of the road really, the starlet loves tight twisty shit being light and short wheelbase, and with my 5.1 final drive it just loves second gear stuff and puts the power down really well, once to get to more open 3rd - 4th gear roads i drops right back in the pack. Anyway here's a video and some choice photos from Jeff wells and Gayle.
  4. unsure why dizzy would smash rotors, possibly whip it out and check that there isnt an abundance of shaft play, and yea make sure cap is sitting on properly, i have never had that problem before. Once that if you have spark and its still not doing anything it could possibly be that the metering unit has been timed incorrectly when re installed. its not hard to re time, there are good instructions in the lucas PI manuals.
  5. nice, i remember seeing this on the tard. Dont get rid of the mechanical injection, it is actually lush if set up right, unfortunately you will have to de barry that. The injection system is super easy to get your head around, i have a bunch of the old lucas manuals and can get copies if ya like. 99% of the time the problem with them is a blocked fuel filter or leaking injector seals that have caused the system to lose its prime. once you sort your spark issue out follow this process -remove all spark plugs - remove all injectors from the throttle body but still connected to metering unit, jam them all in a big glass jar or summin - jump the car to a running vehicle -crank for like 5 minutes to prime the injectors, they should all have a nice crisp fine conical spray them jam everything back in and do a phat skid
  6. in terms of sway bars i made brackets and welded to my lower arms, its better to do this than source stock ones as you can make them even stronger. And from when i did mine i think beaver is correct there, pretty sure i used an S engine cross member as they have the bits for it too all attach too.
  7. so had some more doorts on the weekend at the first round of the engine room automotive sprint series at millstream rd in Weber. Managed to take out a 4age ke25 and just about got a b16a civic. Also put 7 seconds on the other A class starlet that was there, but most importantly i had a huge grin on my face because the car is proper fun to drive now. Next round of the sprint series is on the 5th of march at Pattison rd in Waipukurau. If any hawkes bay peeps want to come down have a look on the "engine room automotive sprint series" page on facebook for details, if you can fit my spare set of overalls i can squeeze 1 or 2 people in for a ride also, just give me a PM if your keen.
  8. doooooorts were made https://www.instagram.com/p/BQRF_jhg-rM/ Cant be bothered putting it on youtube sorry. So had reasonable results at the dyno, motor (even tho its stock bottom end) is super super tight so just put a safe tune on it until it loosens up a bit. Pretty happy though as it has bucket loads (405nm) or torque (aided by the 5.1:1 diff) and it is a super flat torque curve and comes on pretty easy. There is a funny dip in the power curve at about 3500 so we are going to go up a choke size to 32mm next time its in, change the ETs to .6 from the current .7 which will then require the mains and airs to go down a bit. so hopefully there might be another 5-10hp in it i would say. but even if not im super happy with how it drives now, its fun on tarmac so should be a laugh on gravel. first event tomorrow, watch this space.
  9. TMac was a super generous guy and killed most of his saturday tigging these up for me, it took 11 rods! did not expect it to be such a monumental job but it certainly was Super stoked with how the tuned out, week of the 25th we are doing a full stainless exhaust to replace the rusted heap of shit thats in there.
  10. Yea man Tararua Rd, fordell road and that one by the Taihape car club will be the ones worth it. Nah no room in the budget for rallies this year, and I'm spannering for someone else in NZRC, bit will do a couple next year. Pretty keen to go do Ashley forest next year too
  11. Believe it or not it's only about 10mm more than the old motor, the position of the rear frame is a bit deceiving / looks like that with the stock motor etc
  12. ha i dunno, you will still have horsepower on me, and a close ratio box as opposed to my pooey standard k40, im sure we will have some great fun embarrassing some 1600 cars though. Gutted that i'm going to miss the otara rd tarmac round as it clashes with NZRC, might be another one i miss too, 7 rounds is quite an ask, especially with the mrs not working looking after the child thing.
  13. Yea I got it from repco was only $40 for a big sheet which did all of that and my starter motor shield. Yea mark def get your bum In the Willy seat again, there is 7 rounds this year so plenty of opportunity
  14. Yea two of the pipes only have one small tack on the flange and onto the secondary collector so they can be split in half super easy for welding
  15. so no posts for a while as i have been a busy boy with this. Motor machinists finished my head cos they are a bunch of GCs. I needed to get the rocker angles all bang on so Jase / ekezetec being the good bastard he is machined me up some spacers. head! The other thing that jase sorted out for me was some offset cam bushes. I drilled the cam gear locator pin to 8mm so it could be adjusted, got the timing bang on then reset with this wee bush . i then decided i wanted some good tuned 4-2-1 extractors to work well and be designed for the cam im using. Cue NZs resident K series expert Sheldon Rush who took a look at my cam card and gave me primary and secondary lengths / diamaters / collector angles etc. So i spent like $220 on mandrel bends and steel, made a wee jig on my bench of critical points of contact using an old head and then proceeded to spend a long time making these. For extra cool points all cutting is done using a 4" grinder with a cutting disc. They all matched up real nice and are within about 5mm of equal length with each other. They will be going to tmac on sunday who is going to Tig them up for me. would really like to have them HPC coated but im to ghetto at the moment so it might happen at a later date. Probs not haha. When we had the car on the dyno last it made an extra 5 hp (huge when you only have 75hp) by having the bonnet open. this showed she was getting too much hot air especially with the bigger primera radiator being in front of the inlet so i made some heat sheilding out of that fancy alloy corflute heat sheild type shit. Peter weir kindly hooked me up with his stealth mappable ignition system out of his escort after it blew up. Im currently installing this and just loaded up the map he had on it, going to do some more research on dwell (in degrees here) but hopefully i can make some more power having a reliable advance curve and will be good to have a rev limiter also also have my 5.1:1 diff in, so just a few things to tick off the list and then she should be good to run the cam in and get it on the dyno, yeow