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mailman

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  1. What do you mean flatten it sorry? Just flstten the profile of the needle? I don't plan on revving it really high all the time, I'm just trying to get the tune right for the full range as it should rev to about 6000rpm I believe. Though I could be wrong, and perhaps I'm being abusive?
  2. I have been testing with an AFR readout with the sensor up the tailpipe. It doesn't read accurately at idle, but with the BBB needle I get around 14-15 at cruise, and about 13-14 at full throttle until about 4500rpm. At that point it's about 15 and climbs to 16+ as the revs increase
  3. K-trips, I have a 266 cam, 12G940 head, +060 over bore, alloy inlet and maniflow exhaust. 9.75:1 comp ratio. It's quite nice but I'm not getting the most out of it with the leaning issues. I would rather stick with a single carb and with the HIF44 if it's feasible. Cost is the major thing right now. I don't really have any money left to tie up in it. Mjrstar, that sounds like a good plan. Would you recommend trying that with the light or heavier spring? Also, which needle should I try it with? The BBB I am getting close with, or the BDL that WinSU suggests? What was the solution for your 1300?
  4. Thanks, yea I am very strongly considering ordering a HIF38 as you say. My only concern is that WinSU recommends HIF44 and says that with HIF38 I'll be too lean. So hard to work out. I think that the reason for the heavier spring is as you say to reduce the max opening (similar effect to using a smaller choked carb?). I may need completely different needles with the lower opening. I may have to try and actually see how much the piston is lifting for different loads...
  5. Ok, I've spent the afternoon mucking around with the mini. I tried the yellow spring that Larry gave me, that seemed to help initially but meant that it was running quite lean at cruise. I removed the carb and stripped it down to make sure that the everything was working as it should. It all appeared to be in good nick. I am now debating whether I need to try a new needle with the new spring, or go back to the lighter spring. Does anyone know, does the piston go up (and the needle stages effect the fuelling) with throttle position or engine speed? i.e. if I am trying to get extra fuel in to prevent the excessive lean conditions at 5000rpm and up, does that use the same part of the needle as going full throttle lower in the rev range?
  6. Hmm, I see the potential in EFI with the tuneability. But I am not 100% convinced on the benefits vs cost/effort. In saying that though, getting a HIF38 in from the UK is looking like it's going to be around the $500-600 mark after shipping and GST. I've just been to see the mini guru here in Christchurch and he has given me a yellow (8oz I believe) spring, if I understand him right, this should be similar-ish in principle to having a smaller card as the piston will be open a smaller amount. I may have completely and utterly misunderstood/misquoted him there, but he definitely knew what he was talking about.
  7. I've got the paid for version of WinSU which suggested BDL. I'll go back and have another look.
  8. I'm concerned with the issues of setting up one carb, that trying to sort twins would be a step too far. I prefer the HIF series carbs, if I can track down a 38 I'm feeling like that may be worth a go.
  9. Ok, so I had a go at altering the BBB needle today. I didn't get it right and it ended up too rich in the mid range and at pick up without any huge improvement at high revs. I also tried a BBZ needle which seemed like it had a lot of potential but also provided too much fuel. I had kind of been hoping that I could use BBZ and just raise the jet to bring the thicknesses in the upper stages between BDL and BBB. No real luck though. One thing that came up again (among the idea of just going to EFI $$$) was that the HIF44 may be too big and that the 1000cc motor may not be able to suck enough air to get it to perform properly at those higher rev numbers. I find this a little bit hard to understand, has anyone had this experience, or success with using the HIF44 on a 1000? I am very tempted to order a HIF38 if it is likely to be a much better (and not reduce power) fit to my build. I just don't want to go melting things. I haven't given up yet, but it's a bit of a PITA.
  10. Would that battery be robust enough for use in a road car (classic mini, electrics = ignition, lights and err... not much else)? I see it has 540cca which is roughly what I have in my car at the moment.
  11. Sweet thanks. A task for Monday.
  12. Sweet, thanks. Did you find the 240 left a sufficiently polished finish? Or did you use some 1000 or 1200 grit to polish it up after?
  13. Thanks for this info!! I have been thinking over the last few days about what you've all said. I've got my BBB needle and am going to have go when I get some decent emery tape. Question for BigMatt though, did you make alterations to single stages between 6 and 10? Or make tiny changes to 6-10 at the same time? I.e. Taking 0.01mm off of each stage so that the profile remains the same but at a "richer" point? Thanks.
  14. Yea, using a wideband. Only a temporary install though, it's not a weld in kpb or anything.
  15. I have the standard carb spring in there at the moment, I assume that is the lightest? I do wonder if a thinner dashpot oil might help, but I would be concerned that might cause the carb to dump too much fuel in too quickly when first getting on the throttle. Would that be the case? I did wonder about an HIF38 but the HIF44 seemed a good fit based on what WinSU suggested and what I was hoping for power-wise. I would possibly have had a more responsive engine, but who knows, the HIF44 is close now I think/hope. Hopefully BBZ needle or a modified BBB will help. I definitely need to get my hands on Des Hammels book. For the guys who have flirted with needle modification, did your experiences line up with the guy from the website linked above regarding needle stage and throttle position etc?
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