shrike

No space for 3.5" then, considered Oval exhaust :p Keen to see what you come up with :0

What was the 4age successor? (According to Wiki it was the 3zz, then 1ZR) so guess 1NZ isn't close enough haha Thinking Single or dual exhaust? Thoughts on sizing, 3" is always the answer if single right?

@Romanis it going to get a @kprspecial exhaust?

Yeah I am more looking at track work then just drag strip and a pinned rear diff doesnt appeal to me :p, but yes the Landrover viscous is a good work around I'd rather get a custom gear or redo my rear diff mount for a proper 1.5/2way diff etc Might need to look into 2AR/AZ again but pretty sure the K motor was better option in stock form, oh the joys of oddball builds haha

Found some comments, the Alltrac (GT4) box won't work with the Rav/highlander (Kluger) transfercase so id need to possibly use a Rav box, Rav boxes are narrow gear e series and if I need to do another box I may as well go for a Honda setup "Unfortunately the alltrac box cant be utilised directly due to a number of major differences compared to the rav4 box. The biggest headache with using the alltrac box will be the drive arrangements from it into the highlander/lexusrx3300/rav4 type transfercase, unfortunately theyre incompatible. The alltrac has a castellated locking sleeve used to engage the diff-locking function on earlier pneumatic actuators thats locked out by a bolt and a quadrant type fitting. The Sleeve is a different diameter, different length and a different number of splines. Ive got some video i took when i had the alltrac and ravboxes apart that clearly show the differences plus multiple photos. In addition, you cant use the alltrac right hand driveshaft due to its construction being totally different to the rav4's, you have to use the ravs or the highlanders. Other problems; The oil feed for the outboard support bearing isnt even half close to its opposite number on the rav; The highlander transfer wont bolt up to the alltrac box directly due to major differences with the stud locations; and the aforementioned differences with driving arrangements. Basically it all adds up to a big fat headache."

The Ae115 Carib Has an E50F gearbox (also wide gears) I have one in my spares :p don't know if rear diff (also have one) is a different ratio or if the transfer case setup is different etc AWD Caldina had a similar but updated box, you can also use the MR2 Turbo E153 to mix and match parts there is an E153 adapter kit to K series motors

After looking around the net and discovering not a whole heap of info in the same place thought I would start this as a placeholder. Both for myself and for anyone looking at using this drive-train going forward as these cars get older Few write ups on what to use in the US but not really much for Australia/New Zealand Ozhonda seems to be dead, and NZhonda doesn't have much activity either and its hard to search I started looking into this as I am wanting to drop a K24A3 into my AE111, and with my E series AWD gearbox (wide gears) potentially not an option (TBC) as the transfer case may be too big I started looking into the CRV drivetrain There are kits for DSG conversion etc as well but I am specifically going to be talking about Manual gearboxes Ok so tech dump All the K series fitted cars manual gear boxes the gears etc seem to be interchangeable, the AWD diff is the main difference as it has the Transfer gear on it There is also guides on how to convert the 5speed to a 6speed (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VR-zCT0I54) FWD LSD can be used if spaced and Transfer gear is added, but specific AWD LSD's can be brought Factory gearboxes are meant to be 400-600hp capable but start to break at that power, there is upgraded gearset/syncro/hubsliders etc options to do 800hp and then dog box options above that Lots of Billet options too CRV shafts and CVs are small so may need upgrading as well Transfer gear ratios are 0.434 for the Manual and 0.393 for the Auto, the transfer case is the same between the two (transfer gear on the diff is the same between auto and manual, difference is the gear it connects too in the transfer case I had to look up the part numbers to confirm this) Factory CRV rear diff is 2.529 Ratio (USA) for reference the rear GT4 Celica (7.1" or 6.7" T series?) diff is 2.928 Below info, note this is USA sourced info and the CRV final drive is conflicting to other sources I need to find out what the OZ/NZ rear diffs and gearbox final drive ratios are so will update once I know, I would say New Zealand ratios would be JDM cars but will look for NZ delivered details Edit Australian Ratios 2007 CRV (http://m.australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Honda_CRV_RE4_Specifications_200702.pdf) 2011 is listed as the same Manual Transmission Synchronised 6-Speed Forward - 1 Reverse Gear Ratios 1st 3.642 2nd 1.88 3rd 1.212 4th 0.972 5th 0.78 6th 0.659 Reverse 3.583 Final Reduction Ratio 5.333 The Factory CRV is not all time AWD and doesn't have a center diff, it runs a viscous coupling, the factory one has overheating issues if run all the time and is designed for an 80/20 power split Note the GT4 Celica uses a center diff in the transfer case that is viscous but is designed for a 50/50 spilt The Rear CRV diff is not designed to be run all the time and mods (pinning) are required to make it reliable, you can get different viscous couplings to change how it runs or remove it and run AWD all the time. The viscous coupling helps to manage the different wheel speed between the front and the rear The issue with running it all the time is the front and rear ratios don't match and as its not a proper diff will cause binding (there are kits to swap phantom diffs etc in) but typically the best bet is to swap to a real LSD type diff Final Drive Transfer Gear Transfer Ratio Rear Diff Ratio Difference 4.389 0.434 0.904 2.529 4.355 0.0342 4.562 0.434 0.904 2.529 4.526 0.0355 4.764 0.434 0.904 2.529 4.727 0.0371 5.062 0.434 0.904 2.529 5.023 0.0394 Some people adjust tyres etc to fix this, or just live with it, if I wanted to use my GT4 rear diff I could either get a new rear diff ratio (Crown/Pinon) made at a ratio that lines everything up or a new Transfer gear made at the correct ratio (0.3778) or I could get my mounts remade and go to different drive shafts etc Using an Auto Transfer Gear in a manual gearbox would make it worse Final Drive Transfer Gear Transfer Ratio Rear Diff Ratio Difference 4.389 0.393 0.904 2.529 3.943 0.4456 4.562 0.393 0.904 2.529 4.099 0.4631 4.764 0.393 0.904 2.529 4.280 0.4836 5.062 0.393 0.904 2.529 4.548 0.5139 Using the GT4 Rear diff ratio is horrible Auto Transfer Final Drive Transfer Gear Transfer Ratio Rear Diff Ratio Difference 4.389 0.393 0.904 2.928 4.566 0.1766 4.562 0.393 0.904 2.928 4.746 0.1836 4.764 0.393 0.904 2.928 4.956 0.1917 5.062 0.393 0.904 2.928 5.266 0.2037 Manual Final Drive Transfer Gear Transfer Ratio Rear Diff Ratio Difference 4.389 0.434 0.904 2.928 5.042 0.6529 4.562 0.434 0.904 2.928 5.241 0.6786 4.764 0.434 0.904 2.928 5.473 0.7087 5.062 0.434 0.904 2.928 5.815 0.7530 Custom Transfer case Gear (or get a custom rear diff ratio of 2.549) Final Drive Transfer Gear Transfer Ratio Rear Diff Ratio Difference 4.389 0.3778 0.904 2.928 4.389 0.0000 4.562 0.3778 0.904 2.928 4.562 0.0000 4.764 0.3778 0.904 2.928 4.764 0.0000 5.062 0.3778 0.904 2.928 5.062 0.0000 Diffs with factory ratio to match the CRV are 2002 Jag X type Dana 35 BMW 2.56" 2014 Kia Sorento 2.0 (but has electric valve) Feel free to add anything if anyone has any more knowledge Good video on K series box rebuild for 800hp https://youtu.be/ABcZQhperYQ?si=DROL4nfoHEFEFczC

What do these come in locally? the newer Commodores? I could have a look at local wreckers here in Ozzie land

So looking at the DSG conversion Pic The output does look pretty close to the Block not sure how much further the GT4 Transfer case sits out but your right it may not fit or may need to see if shaving the block is an option (not ideal tho) The CRV AWD box doesn't have a center diff like the GT4 Box and after reading up it sounds like the front transfer case does run full time and the load to the rear is controlled by a clutch pack to the rear diff (rear diff can't handle full time AWD) Considering I spent 2.5k on a front LSD for the GT4 box not including install and bearings etc, I am hesitant to change boxes (I could always swap back to a Bellhousing to suit the 3S again rather then the 4a) and try move it on still keen to see if I can make it work Seems to be a 80:20 split to the rear which isn't great on the CRV box, few options for Transfer case upgrades to hold big power but also with a big price tag. Trying to track down info on what a factory transfer case will handle :s Edit, Can't get confirmation on what power the 5/6speed will handle (talk of 400hp) waiting to find out what power the transfer case can hold, though Humble performance claim 600hp on a K series Box Might have to go grab a box/motor from a wrecker here will see what the weather is like this weekend

Dam, will investigate either way, my E box has an aftermarket front LSD etc and works with my drive flanges and rear diff CRV gear isn't full time AWD and has other issues that im hoping to avoid Thanks for the heads up

Wreckers quoted me 1500, there is heaps on FB marketplace for 1k That's for the K24A3, obviously if I go to pickapart and roll the dice it's cheaper (but I'd need to be in NZ for that) Happy to have a chat if you have one come up im also open to a whole car depending on pricing

My Ae111 AWD Build that should have been finished long ago (blame moving to OZ and a no rush attitude) is now looking like itll get a K24 (turboed) for moderate power with options to turn the wick up later rather then going down the 9a route (stroked 7a/20v head etc) as the money I save on the motor can go to other things I did look at the 2AR as would have liked to go Toyota but the K24 is just a better engine, and tbh I may end up not having any markings on the valve cover so who would know as @Roman said 3S bellhousings for transverse engine are an option (shame ive swapped my GT4 Celica box to an A series housing :S) so would need an adapter plate either way As realistically im building the Ae111 for part availability and the K24 support is just nuts Adapter plates and custom flywheels are pretty easy to get these days, I had a look at Tilton twin plates for the E series wide gear AWD box with A series housing on it and I can get a K24 flywheel with all the 7.25" plates etc off the shelf (just need to work out input shaft engagement, and id ideally like to have the starter motor on the gearbox side rather then the engine side but thats not a big deal. I suspect once I get measurements there may already be a K24 Flywheel in a kit that will work or I can shave some bellhousing etc etc Once aftermarket ECUS with Direct injection come down in price/people work out how to use the factory ecu without other systems etc I'd really like to see some direct injection engines used, ideally with port injection for additional fuel delivery The below came out roughly 2017 so in 3 years they will be 10 year old cars and there is buckets of the cars they came in on the roads even ex rentals/fleet cars etc Toyota M20A-FKS 13:1 205hp to the crank 152kw after a tune etc and id say probably still decent fuel ecom factory they are meant to be around 140-150kw but do 4ish L per 100km Toyota M20A-FXS is the 14:1 option in the hybrid version Larger option is the A25A-FKS 13:1 A25A-FXS 14:1 The Subaru FA24 is also something that would be good for modernizing some of the older subarus for a restomod sort of setup Big thing with newer options is better tech and parts options Obviously the GR variants of Hot hatch have the 3cylinder G16E

Going with a stock 2zz? Or doing some tweaks? Curious to see how the 2zz goes in rwd few newer options around now, esp after seeing @Romanresults with his 1nz 2AR have been popular in MR2 etc I'd love to see the newer corolla M20A-FKB engines in one of these but the 14:1 M20A-FXS would be interesting (might be a bottom end swap sort of thing) direct injection, my partners corolla gets like 4L per 100km B1600 diff is an interesting option drum brake or is there a disc brake option. How heavy are they compared to the factory diff?

New garage looks the goods will be nice to have some new space I'm sure, not quite tall enough for a clear floor yeah?

So is it ready for a no exhaust start up? :p