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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/29/24 in Posts

  1. So I took the tank to get pressure tested and it had a crack where the motor plate is welded on. I decided to see what was available on the tard and a perfect (almost) tank was for sale for a price less than another pressure test and paint so I bought it. Is 300L, made in 2014 and comes with a pressure switch and some fittings I don't have. The only problem is the inlet port from the compressor to the tank is in the middle. I don't have a pipe long enough to plumb it. I need a new pipe for that, probably about 900 long. I'll try to mount everything into the tank today and get it running without the pipe. Let's see how far I get.
    6 points
  2. Interesting. A guy from my industry randomly decided to retrain as a primary school teacher, but he didn't last long in the field. I used to flat with a primary teacher years ago, and I remember her making strong vodka jellies to take to school and share around the staffroom at lunchtime - presumably those helped the teachers get through the day. I had David Jenkin assess my piano years ago. I found it interesting and I was sorely tempted to throw money away on a rebuild, but instead I bought a new piano for some reason. Now I have two pianos, because of course I can't get rid of the old one. More than a decade ago I was already finding it difficult to book piano tuners - they were busy, which meant they would tell me their one and only available time slot a month or two in the future, and I'd have to make that work. Then they'd decide to specialise in tuning expensive Steinway grands and stop accepting jobs for old British uprights. The piano tuner I use now is someone I was forcibly transferred to when my previous tuner basically said he was too busy. She's not the norm for the industry as she's about a decade younger than me. She was able to bring forward her return visit to finish the hammer bushing replacement to earlier this week. So that work is mostly done now, but it has an annoying short-term downside - as Tim Finn would say, what I need is a positive action, but there's a fraction too much friction. Ooo, and I noticed this written on the back of the action: I think it says "Palmer. 15th afternoon Recentre Ease Regulate". Palmer was my great grandfather's last name, and ironically he must have been getting the same work done to the action as I've just had done.
    5 points
  3. A clutch line. Bent by hand so not robot straight. I made it a little longer than required just in case I need to redo the flares. Hopefully having it go higher than the reservoir do not cause issues bleeding. The reservoir is just on a hose and bracket, so I could make it higher if I needed to. And the hose bracket I made. With the hose like this it keeps out of the way of the wheel and it doesn't get tight from lock to lock. The hardline originally went under the chassis rail, but it will be way too close to the exhaust, I'll run it through the inner wing.
    4 points
  4. Pulled the floor and tunnel panels off to change the detent springs last weekend. Didn’t know what to expect or if the old ones would be in bits/not even there. But they were all present but a bit more compressed than the new set. Turns out I didn’t need 3 seals, the top one had a recess in the nut: Tightened the gear selector grub screw as it had backed out slightly. It’s no short shift kit but it’s certainly better. Scored a genuine Land Rover tow ball with hitch pin on the tard for 80 bucks. Old one may have become compromised using it to pull tree stumps out a few years ago… Saw a neat trick on Instagram to keep the soft top sides tidy when rolled up. 3 wooden broom handles slipped into the hem of the soft top.
    3 points
  5. Yo, Long time no see, I figured that because im about to embark on phase 2 of this heap that I should probably make one of these. Anyway, I needed a new daily so I went shopping and found this sweet 82 long bed, I was after a long bed specifically as I needed/wanted it for my shop truck to haul choppers round with. The 350 had a sweet cam and gear drive so it sounded cool and had the requisite chop chop but the 4km/l fuel consumption meant that the daily part of the new car purchase didnt work quite so well. Luckily I had done my due diligence before the purchase and also bought a 2005 Mercedes Benz E320 cdi. Anyway @98cc hit me up and said he wanted to come visit so I put him to work and we pulled the 350 out and swung the OM648 in. Then at some point a @peteretep came and visited so we did some more work, anyway, I had a deadline, I made it, the truck got its maiden voyage with its new motor around Norway chasing a bunch of bikers, good times. Basically the rundown of the swap were: OM648 3.2l inline 6 diesel, the same one the Blacksmoke Racing dudes use. Baldurs Control Systems DID1 stand alone ECU 722.6 Mercedes 5 speed Auto with lockup OF Gear TCU 3 inch intercooler Built 10 Bolt with 30 spline axles, 9 inch housing ends and bearings, Eaton Trutrac and 3.08 gears. At this point it turned into my summertime daily and did truck things Then doing the usual facebook marketplace thing late at night I found a truck camper for sale, so of course I had to have that... At this point I found the limit of the 1/2 ton suspension so with the camper and the 6/8 drop that it has, so I had to do something, I made a bag over leaf setup in the back to help with load carrying capabillity. So about here is up to date, the engine swap is legit, it now gets 14 km/l and will happily cruise at 120 on the highway, because of the 8 foot bed it hauls all manner of things without asking, and does a skid. Discussion
    3 points
  6. Old man had a Kingswood wagon when I was 7 or 8. He swapped a Chevy big block in, not sure exactly what size but it was rowdy. I remember when he sold it, guy who bought it was in a wheelchair, had no legs, tried to pay in weed. So yeah the 90s were interesting
    2 points
  7. Other than schooling myself up on making new AN lines (I gonna have a few questions about that) , I been getting bits trickling in like Coils/injectors. Bigger news is I'm getting my very own Easter Keg this weekend.
    2 points
  8. I think the 1/24 scale aspect of this thread went away a long time ago lol
    2 points
  9. I’ve just started building USS Voyager. It’s not 1/24th scale but I’ll punish you all with my terrible slow progress anyway. You’ve been warned!
    2 points
  10. Rookie Daves diesel mobile doggin unit
    2 points
  11. Anything from 2000 onwards gets 1 year WOF, it's not a sliding scale.
    2 points
  12. On the way back the LF tyre was going flat fairly quickly, and needed some air every couple of hours. All good until Levin when the core of the valve blew out while I was putting the valve cap back on. Spare is an original 14" and doesn't fix over the discs. I think my plan for this situation was to put the spare on the back, and swap a back wheel to the front, but that would be a faff as the rear tyre needs to be deflated to get the Radir wheel off, then pumped up again from the air bag system. There happened to be a tyre shop nearby so I humped the wheel over there and got the valve replace (for free - thanks Advantage Tures Levin) Even thoug I just got a fresh WOF one of the mufflers gave up the ghost on our travels. It might have involved a bit of road contact but I'm not sure, these have been on the car since we got it in the USA in 2003, so notbad.jpg Got it off without too much effort, will replace both sides. After driving it a lot over 10 days I realised I have been ignoring a lot of small and not so small issues so I made a list.... have already ordered some bits off rockauto, so will pick away at this while we wait for a house sale.
    2 points
  13. in new zealand it always needs to be licenced/rego paid to be on the road at 40 years it becomes "classic". this means a slight change to "continuous licencing" in that it takes a little longer for it to be come deregistered if you forget to put it on hold
    2 points
  14. My Datsun has a haltech and running std tacho with inductive loop, i just ran the power wire for the coil, coil no1 in your case, through the inductive loop and it works mint.
    2 points
  15. Nope. Which is kind of weird as you can't read speedo at night without a light Has to have high beam light and something to tell you the indicators are on, that's it
    1 point
  16. I have updated the main meet thread. 7pm Wednesday 3rd April at Spitfire Square
    1 point
  17. I wish I had that sort of talent! There is a reason I'm going for a one wire hookup diesel and it's entirely skill based.
    1 point
  18. Always been curious of those standalone ECUs for the common rail Mercs, great to see someone using it for a conversion. @dmulally do this mate! There is one sitting at pickapart in np... Would love to know how simple these setups are if you have more details
    1 point
  19. Yep. I know a lot of folks airbrush using gloss paints and seal everything in with a coat of matte clear too. There's also a huge range of decal softening solutions available too that let them really conform to panel lines or details without tenting or tearing.
    1 point
  20. Oh yeah, I do intend to 'seal' it all with a clear coat, but just wanted to check if any were needed prior to decaling and weathering etc. Going by what i have seen online, it sounds like the idea of the clear coat is to lock it all in place and protect it down the line etc.
    1 point
  21. My other old Holden story is my (step) Uncle Gary is into them, and still has a pile of them (in northland) Me and my step bro learned to drive a rusty/mostly fibreglass HR? Ute that he must have given his brother (my step dad/old man) to use in the 5 acre paddock we had out the back of the house. It was good for chucking old farm crap (rubbish, fence posts, thistle, boxthorn etc) into to take to the bonfire pile and doing donuts in the paddock that couldnt be seen from the house. The problem was, that the donuts left marks in the grass that could be seen by the old man when he went on his walks around the place, so then we couldnt do that any more. I remember getting it stuck once and not being able to rock it out of the hole it had dug (i was like 12, the only thing i new which was giving it more jandal wasn't working - what to do???) and Gary saying, ill show ya, jumping in and rowing the column change and heavy clutch between 1st and reverse like a drift car driver, SKILLZ! From what i can recall the ute disappeared when we had tidied up most of the paddock and built some fences, Uncle Gary probably grabbed it back, and probably still has it. Less classic Holden yarns The old man also had a series of new two tone (maroon upper, silver lower) V8 Calais, i think VS, VSII and then maybe a VT, before changing tack to a V8 Cherokee (in the same colour) - i think he said the Holden salesman gave him some side eye or tried to stiff him on the trade in or something, and after buying 3 new top spec cars in 5ish years told them to shove it and must have gone to the Jeep place instead. The VS was the best one (IMO 12yo opinion) still love those flat rear arches. Mum also had a first gen Opel Vectra GT at the same time, that was pretty quick too (when the old man drove it!) and had a great sporty exhaust note The 90s were a good time.
    1 point
  22. H series Holdens, X series coons and V series Vals FTW...
    1 point
  23. I spent some time dicking round with the airbox as I didn't like the long studs coming up off the carbs, plus the carbs themselves seem to be mounted in a slightly different position and the airbox really didnt like sitting down in place. So I made a new baseplate that fitted nice and put some 16mm tube in there so the screws could clamp it directly through the baseplate. Its a bit cleaner looking too... Then I glued the windshield trim on with some extra and probably non standard fixing methodologies; I am missing the joiner bits but I might just poo the gap up for now once its cured in place. A new and marginally sexier fuel pump arrived and got placed; Ooh and here is my sexy top link what I made in place; So just the rear valance to make, plus probably a heat shield for the alternator as its still close regardless of the wrap. And the alternator light doesnt work for some reason. And I found another sneaky little rust hole in the drivers floor. I should have noticed it as there was a 20mm stalactite of bog hanging down underneath, but obviously I didnt up til now. There is an argument for step drilling it out to 25mm and calling it a drain hole, but I will make a closer investigation. Oh and I bolted most of the rest of the bits back on;
    1 point
  24. Could not find anything for three lines that was available... Left front caliper, clutch, line to rear. So... yeh? Or nah? They are a loose fit. 5mm drill for 3/16th pipe(4.6mm?)
    1 point
  25. Jesus! 2022 was my last progress on it! Well, after that update, we decided to sell our house. So I was frantically working on the house for about 6 months and then we moved, and the trailer doesn't fit in the new garage. So its been outside, in the grass since last June/July and its developed a bit of scale. Anyway @Duke Blackwood decided that he wanted it off his lawn, so he came up with a clever scheme that got it moved and forced me into working on it at his workshop. Yesterday I took a day off work, welded on some mounting points for a future removable tire rack and work bench, fabbed up a draw bar, and welded on the spring mounts. It was a pretty massive day in the workshop for myself, usually an office fairy... so today I'm pretty shot, to the point where my boss commented this morning on how tired I look Anyway, its finally going to be heading off to blast and paint, and then I will make it towable so I can at least move it around while I sell something to pay for the cladding.
    1 point
  26. A while back I spent quite some time making a sleeve to tidy up the gap between the steering column and the steering wheel. Problem was the top bearing just had too much play in it for my liking. When I pulled out the bearing I found it was a piece of pressed sheet metal rubbish that was close to impossible to replace. The solution was a trip to the local bearing supplier and the massive investment of $13.50 (and to think the “ever lovely Mrs. sr2” accuses me of being cheap!). I bought a large piece of mild steel round and chucked it in the Emco. I bored it for a firm fit to the OD of the new bearing. I flipped it over and cut it to size in the bandsaw… I then line bored it to fit the steering Column tube. That’s an end I cut off from an old column; you can see how light the original bearing was. I double checked everything still fitted…… …… and then turned down a piece of scrap water pipe to act as a cover between the bearing and the steering wheel. I then turned it down to the same OD……. …. Took the cover off and turned a taper at the other end…… All set to assemble……. (The tube on the left is just for setting it up). Checked it with the Triumph steering assembly…. …….some plug welding…… A bit of paint………… And I’m back to where I started, (story of my life!) but with no play in the steering wheel. The only thing I don’t like is the cheap, shiny, aftermarket “hotrod” indicator switch. To its credit it works well but looks very out of place - far too new and shiny for Rigamortice’s discerning taste. I’ll keep looking for something old and quirky to replace it with. Any suggestions gratefully accepted… https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49843-sr2%E2%80%99s-1947-vauxhall-%E2%80%9Crigamortice%E2%80%9D-discussion-thread/
    1 point
  27. Anyone else planning to attend the Waiau Pa Hop on the 7th April? held at the Clark’s Beach yatch club at the end of Torkar rd. register before midnight to have a entry sticker mailed out. entries close on the 6th April but must print out an entry number if entered after midnight tonight (27th March). approx 200 cars entered last year. Http://www.pahop.org
    1 point
  28. Now we know it runs, next step is to make it worth driving The interior was pretty good condition but there was a lot of evidence of rats eating and storing snail shells in the engine bay and mice droppings in the interior, but no evidence they lived there long, and the shed it was in wasnt water tight so it was all a bit smelly and musty Anyway, all needed to come out for a clean & deodorised the seats, throw away the original horsehair underlay and to make it easier to do a few other jobs, like... Improve the shifter opening, replaced the galv flashing and countersinks that dind really cover the hole with some alloy sheet (from the Sign of the Year! - now in 5 of 5 of our classic cars!) and a rubber boot - adding my first FIAT part Removed everything else and give it a good cleanup. Floor condition is excellent, no rust at all! 'New' Underlay (free second hand stuff) to replace the original horsehair stuff that was a bit smelly and flat. I think the front carpet might be ex-torana too, it doesn't quite meet up with what im pretty sure is the original HQ rear carpet. Both carpets are in nice nick, and we will cover the gap (which under the seats) with some cheap nylon outdoor carpet from m10 that we will also use for the parcel tray that is also unmolested by axe holes for 6x9s etc. Rear came up nice as well, car has a tan interior with dark brown headlining - class! Removed the steering wheel spayed the steering column black (was grey and still has the column change mech in it) and tidied the (omg its so janky!) dash up a touch, and the wiring behind it mainly by removing anything that has added in And then remove the dead weight out of the boot to make room for bodies and crates of DB Its easily 80kgs, empty Things will likley slow down a bit now, as from here its time to start spending money on parts, most likley starting with brakes which i have not even had a wheel off yet to even check what they are apart from being discs up front and drums out back) I suspect the weird too easy/dead stop half way pedal/no brake function issue is the piston is jammed halfway down the master cylinder, as there is no leaks from any soft lines, and lots of fluid in the MC.
    1 point
  29. Ma te wa to Bill and whanau, then we headed home, with our van loaded up with other treasure from the shed(s) Forgot to mention i got jealous of her getting new car, so I got me one the same colour as hers on the way up. Given i had to drive this, Kirsty was driving the van the whole way home, she was none too pleased about it (But, yes it is better than my current 2005 Forester X its replacing in every way, thanks for asking - 2002 XT, totally stock, sub 200k and after a few wee issues (MAF sensor, oily connectors, new spark plugs) it really kicks when the whirly boi winds up!) Good Day in Welly before overnight sailing Breaky fry up in Kaikoura a quick stop to rise the north island off And about 3 days after we got home, this turned up. Used Classic Towing - worked out fine, but lucky both Bill and myself are home most of the time because the communication around changes of plan was a bit lacking tbh. The man can sure back a trailer tho. Its a fricken whale compared to my 'big' Fiat, an easy foot wider. Time to poke the bear First thing, remove the CNG stuff from the engine bay. Not only is it unfillable, the electrics are one of the layers of fuckery (the least bad to be fair, but also totally redundant), the tees that loop into the factory heater coolant lines to stop the regulator freezing up were corroded apart, and the carb hat gas injector thing made the air cleaner butterfly nut rub on the underside of the hood. 'New' heater hoses (from the old CNG line) and a bit of a wiring tidy up Fuel pump clean (no go in Feilding, leaks like a sieve now, still no pumping action), now bypassed with a clicketyclack, needs a rebuild kit (diaphram and gaskets) Carb cleanup, was pretty clean inside the bowls etc, works ok now, needs a kit too (tore a gasket) Sitting clean on the still very oily 173 Dizzy removed, cleaned and oiled, gap reset, but all the points, cap, rotor, leads and sparkplugs all look relatively low miles Changed the oil and filter (black and smelled like petrol but no chunks), re-crimped a new loose connections, taped some twisted wires, removed some vampire taps and chock blocks as well Put it back in starting from first principles (ignoring the marks, get cylinder 1 on compression stroke at as close to tdc-ish you can with a long thing in the spark plug hole, rotor pointing to lead 1) and it was about 90 degrees off where it was before - dizzy couldnt be turned enough to get the right timing, so i wonder if it had been tutued with before and the hassle of it not running well was why it got parked. Bill did say it had several minor issues needed sorting out and they got a newer, better car and he just stopped driving it. Anyway, buttoned up and after some further fine tuning it starts on one pump of the pedal and idles smooth. Not smoky (any more) Still no coolant or brakes.
    1 point
  30. Made it up to Waihi Beach the Whangamata OK. Parked near the beach, and then in the slamfest on Saturday (bit damp that day). New paint is a big improvement.
    1 point
  31. Went for a decent blat into town tonight. A few things to note before I forget. Cruises at 2200rpm at 100kph and has buckets of power upwards from that so the gearing is spot on. Maybe because Im used to a shitty old slow chevy but it feels like a rocket. Makes a weird noise for a second on startup. The sump is too low. Either I have to put in stock springs or modify the sump. @cubastreet got any spare sump pans? The oil filler pipe is now hitting the firewall so I have to modify that again. Second is a bitch to find from 3rd but I'll get used to it. It has enough torque to take off in 4th but I'll leave the clutch alone. I might make the aux water pump booster linked to the ignition as I forgot to turn it on. It's criminal me having this car and living 10kms from a decent corner. It wants to corner.
    1 point
  32. Nah 20 years is a new car that only needs a wof once a year.
    1 point
  33. Took it in for a WOF, needed to replace an axle seal, front left brake line and repair a tear in the sill that looked like it’d been there for the last 20 years. Giving a rap to Tuakau Panelbeaters for doing the job on such short notice. Car is sold, I’m happy/sad.. time to focus on building my shed now.
    1 point
  34. Here is a wee update. The fist job was to sort out a couple of issues on the hydraulic clutch setup. I realized that the slave cylinder I had that came with the bellhousing fowls on the headers. After a bit of head scratching and hunting I found another slave cylinder that just fits. I heated the headers then tweaked them out about 15mm to give a bit more clearance, it is still very tight. I still only have about 10mm of clearance. I'll make a heat shield I think. That is the new one, only problem is that the bolt holes don't line up with the holes on the bellhousing. So I milled slots in it. I was going to TIG the bellhousing holes and tap them but I decided not to just incase this new slave cylinder doesn't end up working out. For the master cylinder I welded a backing plate to the fire wall and mounted it in the engine bay between the booster and the header. Tight fit but it works. That picture makes it look much closer to the header than it is. I couldn't have it directly behind the clutch pedal unfortunately, so it's off set from the pedal. I used some steel rod linking them all together and threaded the ends. It's nice and smooth, I'm hopeful it will work well. Engine in for hopefully the final time. I couldn't mount the gearbox as when I went to fit the fly wheel I realized I don't have any flywheel bolts. Doh. ARP ones are on the way. Next I'll start wiring her up and put the dash back together. Cheers guys. P.S. Pro tip... Don't spray a car in jandals. That was taken after 2 showers.
    1 point
  35. Aaaaaaannnnddd car is still in the weather outside. But i just found and paid for something i have been looking for since 2005ish..... AN INTERMITTENT WIPER SWITCH!! This may not seem like a big deal but only having a 2 speed wiper switch in rainy reporoa is a problem. And yes while i could have wired in an aftermarket timer that wouldn't have felt right. So long as david from gumtree doesn't let me down.....
    1 point
  36. I guess you could use something like this to drive the tacho if its analogue, https://spiyda.com/smiths-rvi-rvc-conversion-external-1.html You should be able to feed the tach signal from the ECU into the box, but as Goat says, there will be a few different makers of things like these now. Im running this version of it for the Smiths tacho in the Marina, which takes the signal from the negative of the coil, does some electronic wizardry and then the needle moves, https://tasteslikepetrol.net/2021/06/project-marina-tacho-conversion/
    1 point
  37. I was looking at this a few years ago with my 240z. Assuming Volvo is inductive loop setup like the Z. I found a few guides on how to do it (i just did a quick search but couldnt find any that still had current pics etc) There was a really good guide on a toyota forum of how to do it yourself. I ended up just getting a MSD tach adapter. There seem to be a few other players on the market for tach adapters these days, so the may be a cheap magic box you could use.
    1 point
  38. He’s quite right obviously. I’m pretty confident that this aspect is good and the initial measurements I did tended to prove it. Will re-measure more accurately before refitting and may even plot a graph….. Other thing is that I have had it working beautifully in the past ….. Even this particular collection of scrap worked very nicely when first installed. I’m coming to the idea that this failure was mostly due to crap parts.
    1 point
  39. Gah I don't want to diagnose something I just want to fit new parts and get on with my life.
    1 point
  40. All legal beagle, any cruises etc hmu,will head upto cars in coffee, few things to do still but that's any car really, needs gearbox badly and decide on a new engine, time to give her a beating
    1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. Cosmetic rebuild starting this weekend I think. The bubbling on the tank has got really bad. Got a few holes to weld up after Captain Harleys lowering job on the back guard. Might have a go at making a combined backrest/saddlebag mount out of aluminium
    1 point
  43. Bought this little thing yesterday from a proper English gentleman. He even agreed to take a cash deal (<$2000) and remove it from TM where I was top bidder but auction wasn't closing until 7pm Sunday night, by which time we'd be heading back south. Picking it up Sunday afternoon in Auckland after Kumeu, when the owner returns from a trip to Singapore. 125,xxx kms! 2 NZ owners, the first one imported it at 40,xxx kms and was apparently a millionaire antique dealer who used it to putter between his shops, and the second is the above mentioned gentleman who has used it to commute daily for the last 4 years. It is a 1984 Nissan Sunny Van (2 door = VB11) with a E13S 1.3L 4 cylinder and 4 speed manual floor shift, in a front tug arrangement. Hopefully the E13S is the Jap market one which claims 75 PS. Seller's pics will have to do for now, I'll update and replace these with better photo's next week. For now the only plan is to get it on the hoist and have a look over it, new fluids and filters, and start dailying the little gem. Cam belt, water pump, CV's, and brakes have been done in the last 20,000 km according to the seller. But you best believe I've already photochop dropped it with some little alloys. Simple yet effective, the rims are some Zona mesh that were on the 'tard recently. Chur
    1 point
  44. Yet. It is rumoured this will be introduced in the near future…
    0 points
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