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Showing most liked content since 23/05/17 in Posts

  1. 41 likes
    the good.the bad.the gun spat here on the left rear fender.so I stuck heaps of paint over it so I can hopefully polish it out so it sagged here.and when painting inside the air vent I made this mess, looks like I'll be learning to wet sand paint now!All in all I'm pretty stoked and glad it's over, heaps of runs and spots of over spray and areas of orange peel etc..but not bad for a noob in shed in west auckland.looking forward to assembly.
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    Made some brackets to mount the valves. For some reason the holes ended up too far out so had to slot them a little. They're held in with countersunk screws so it's all still flush underneath (not that anyone will be able to see underneath anyway haha). Played around a bit with the location for a while and decided this was the best. Wasn't really enough room for the compressor to fit in between. Will mount a compressor on each side of the bed, just above the exhaust area. Back to fitting and fixing the rust in the dash now. Cut out the good/un-butchered section of the dash that some idiot tried fitting a commodore cluster in. Glad to finally throw this shit out! Pic for motivation
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    Bought about a month or so ago. Old man's and wanted it in family so that was a yes from me Plans.. Cruise and Enjoy. Running 265 V8, New Edelbrock 500 carby.
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    Haven't done much more to the dash apart from fit it into the cab, as I am undecided how to approach the rusty holes under the gauges yet, a bit too many complex shapes! My Dad had a 55 Chevy steering column laying around, so we started to mock it up. The shaft out of that column had been welded in multiple places so we found another column that had a mint shaft and it was also longer so didn't need an extra universal joint added. The outer tube of the column was pretty average, had lots of extra holes, cutouts and had been shortened, so drew a new one up in Solidworks and got it put through the Tube laser at work. It's now made from 2 inch stainless tube.
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    The body is done! Just need to put some sealer on the underside of wheel arches then move onto the front guards and bonnet. Have a donor bonnet that's good apart from one back corner so will slice it off the blue one.
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    And the two crowns stashed away being friends in the all legal begal club.
  9. 24 likes
    Went to hamilton today to pick up this fine specimen. It's a 8.8 ford diff out of a 91-99 explorer. There are a few reasons for using this. They are cheap ish, have discs and a decent handbrake setup , lsd, 31 spline axles, same diff as a mustang so plenty of aftermarket parts available, and if you narrow one axle tube 3" and use 2 short axles it makes it just the right width and pinion offset for a valiant. I do have a 9" that I was going to use, but it has already been narrowed but not enough. New housing and axles was going to be 2k, plus rebuild the diff and get a lsd center, plus brake conversion, was probably the best part of 3.5- 4k. And yay, wheels fit over the brakes.
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    Finished another patch of rust. Hate trying to do them when you can't get in behind with a dolly, makes it difficult. Made up some strap sort of things to mount the fuel tank. Spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to mount it and decided that adding another bar between the chassis rails was the best. The straps pull the tank up against the top brackets, should hopefully hold it in place well enough. Made up a aluminium tray to mount the air tank and compressor in. Being able to draw stuff up in cad, program it, laser cut and use a CNC press-brake is pretty great! It's pretty tight but fits. Will swap the tank to the back as the tank will look better being visible through those holes than the compressor. I'm sure I'll paint it black so it's a bit more subtle. Got the rest of the exhaust tacked together as well. Not sure if I'll change where it exits, because at the moment it sort of comes out between the tailgate and bumper or just leave it as is. I think the whole exhaust has 10-12 u-bends in it now haha.
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    Grass has been getting a little long. so time to give it a trim in other news, just been making a few things stronger, chassis panhard mount. added some braces to lower chassis links on the rear. pedal box was flexing the firewall/wiper tray even tho i took in all 9 of the factory bolt holes. added another bracket back to the cross bar. and hung the brake light switch off it grass trails p/s cap is out in the paddock somewhere
  12. 20 likes
    Not really an update, but I've owned this old sausage for 8 years this month. I might do something about the front seat next, it's never been very comfortable. And do some rustproofing after seeing pics of bart's vg, ha
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    Managed to get myself a 1200 wagon body. Not in too bad of condition, has a small bit of rust in body but nothing serious that cant be fixed. Bonnet is the worst part but have a replacement sorted. Will slowly fix up. Need to find and engine and box for it, then will send it off to get the rust taken out of it.
  14. 19 likes
    Seems to be working pretty good so far. got some softer springs on the way for the front. as its sitting a bit high. Now the front works better than the rear, and has shown up a few issues back there. is a bit harsh going over stuff compared to the front. Have adjusted the top spring lock out, so it stays on the softer spring rate till later in the travel, which has made it a little better. have got a few more things i can tweak, but will likely have to remount the rears for bit more up travel and add hydro bumps, to work as well as the front. thats not gonna happen anytime soon.
  15. 19 likes
    Engine bayback of dash/trunkdoor jams and inside of doorsinner wheelwellsand back side of rear valance.Done.
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    This is the most racecar looking piece I have ever made.. When the car was last together (quite some time ago now) the throttle pedal feel was terrible. I tried different cables and spring rates etc but always felt like it should have been better..maybe I'm just used to more modern things....I dunno. So the goal here was to reduce the cable length significantly- the snake will now come through the firewall and start directly behind the carb rather than above the gas pedal. I was going to use an aluminium or stainless tube but then found a carbon tube cheap on AE. I bought bearings from AE too- the housings are self aligning and they are CHEAP. Next I measured up the factory gas pedal assembly, copied it's basic geometry, made some quick drawings and had these cut. And bent the pedal pad Then this morning I took some aluminium And made these ends up in aluminium. they have lots of drilled and tapped holes for mounting the arms. And here it is together with the ends pressed in. It looks totally badass and is pretty cool to hold and play with as it's SOOOOO light and rigid....a shame it will never be seen haha. The pad will be welded on when it's bolted into car and I know that angles etc are right.
  17. 18 likes
    Hi to all im new on here and have the privlidge to start a project on a 1972 Ke25 Corolla im at the early stages at the moment just stripped the car down complete and had it sand blasted the plan is to fully upgrade to a Te27 all bodystyling, so will the help of you profesionals on here.
  18. 18 likes
    The bike is pretty much ready for stripping down and painting now, just have to finalise a couple more details
  19. 18 likes
    Suck mother fucken cess. Have enough oil pressure now at hot idle that it should maintain enough pressure to keep things lubed. Not over whelming amounts but enough. Also forgot how fucken so much better this wagon is with the 2.8 in to. Can actually pull out at round abouts with out the fear of being t boned and can pull speed up hills. Much love. So happy. On to the next car mission I think.
  20. 17 likes
    Parent hood is slowing progress but im determined to get this done for the next toyota fest. motor came out and striped the firewall ready for paint.I ended up getting the car touched up as i had put a few scratches and stone chips in it .Ive since just got it back from the painters at it looks so fresh,the metallic paint just pops off the shiny clear coat. things to do now is reassemble the whole car and get it ready for cert.i need to either fix my flywheel or find an aftermarket one,if my factory one doesn't work out would a JUN lightened flywheel work for street use? its 1.6kg lighter. Only thing stopping the motor going back in is flywheel,bolts and a clutch setup. also found a good set of SSR F.5 that just need a repaint and widen out to 14x8 hopefully this Canterbury weather holds out for weekend work on the car
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    Spent last night masking up.used nearly two whole rolls of tape! Still need the final sanding down, a few small spots need fine filling but getting close!Looks like I messed up the over lap on the removable valance, I would like to have painted it in place as above, but I didn't lay enough red down when I painted the engine bay so I'll have to paint it off the car, and I still need to suss out a spot for the small bits to be painted. maybe once the shell is done.
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    Then I was doing a patch in the sill and RAN OUT OF GAS. Fucking rage. So I was left to make all the rest of the body patches and rust kill and seal seams. While feeding rust converter all around through a hole, the brush posed no resistance.. FUUUUUUCK. Most akward placement. like an archaeological dig in the rear guard, that's about 4 inches of dirt. found a bulb. Luckily the rust hasn't eaten through the inner yet so took a good clean and rust kill. made patches for the bottom of the guard x2, outer C pillar x2, another 4 in wheel arch and the ugly one for the inner guard, coaxed the frame off the other front guard then gave up for the day.
  24. 16 likes
    Well just when you thought i couldn't finish my current projects, i thought why not add another! Discussion click here So here is my 1972 Vauxhall Viva Estate. Last registered in 2012 and been off the road since. It use to have the stock 1259cc but that has since been removed. A bit of a special car too, being the first in NZ with plate number 1. The previous owner has spent a lot of time and effort in getting the new motor built up. Its a Blydenstein 1259cc (1.3L now) and lets just say its not stock anymore. Heres how the car sat when it was on the road: Stay tuned in the coming weeks
  25. 15 likes
    Here's the pics from making the seat 1/16 ally blocking the sheet to shape lots more hitting and shrinking around the edges A few passes through the wheel and its starting to look like something After final wheeling and trimming The base was made out of slightly thicker material, no blocking required though just a few passes through the wheel Mock up This is how the bike looked sometime in 2014, after this pic was taken progress pretty much stopped while i was working on other things
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    Not quite finished, but It goes
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    Hi Thought I'd share a couple of pics of my HQs Ute is all legal and running an angry 408 BBC. Statesman is a work in progress with a certed 350 in it. Original black plates and Rego on hold. Looking to rat rod this one. Just need front Carpet,wipers, paint and wheels.
  28. 15 likes
    Fuuuuuck. Was hopeful to smash it today but the more I dug the more was missing. Thats the firewall, so had go slow so as not to burn it with fire. while I was waiting for the rust converter to dry inside the sill I cut open the outer C pillar and the inner between drip rail and door shut. Not good news. Also hung the door back on without any issues, Stoked it even closes! wire wheeled, rust killed and etched the upper wheel arch where the guard bolts on. Soaked the captive nut clips in acid then converter ready to go back onto the area just etched
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    Time has been marching on, and I haven't touched the van for ages, as I have been so busy with other things.So I decided to book it in at work, as we have a new fabricator just started, and he is rather good! First job was to make the trans mount, and exhaust system. The trans crossmember is a tubular design, from 1 3/4" roll cage tubing. The exhaust is TIG welded 304 stainless, 2" primaries into 3" main pipe, and large muffler with side exit pipe. Next week will be a new engine crossmember and mounts, to a similar tubular design as the trans mount. Also a swirl pot for the fuel injection, weld in the battery tray on the RH side, wiring, fuel lines, air intake, etc.
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    This is a project i have had on the go for quite a while now, it always seems to get put aside when other projects come up but i am determined to have it finished this year, Famous last words haha. I wanted something a bit different from the standard bantam and seeing as the project was a basket case i didn't feel bad about making something different out of it, so racer it was! Anyway here is a pic as it stands today I got given a basket case bantam project in 2013, i did a fair bit of work to the bike 2013-14 and most of the pictures following are from that period The project.... Frame with reassembled forks and rear suspension I got the engine cleaned up and back together with new seals, bearings, clutch pates, sprockets and gaskets I had the engine running at this point but i have since fitted a big fin 125cc barrel and head which i had bored to fit a new piston. BSA only made the big fin 125 for 1 year before going to the 150cc motor so i was quite lucky to get it, pic below is the small fin barrel Next job was making up some clip on bars Tacked on found some levers at a swapmeet as the original bantam ones are part of the handlebars At this point i decided on a colour, Ceramco blue so got some bits painted up And Tom Morris made me some stainless spokes for the rear Rear wheel laced up
  32. 13 likes
    That brings us to a couple of months ago where i saw that the bike was starting to rust and corrode from sitting around so i got back into it. first off was getting the seat finished cut out and fitted welded and filed up
  33. 13 likes
    this is what she ended up looking like as i drove it round for 6 or so months, Untill all of the oil decided to exit via the dipstick So i searched for ages for a replacement, and found a 393 windsor that a few of you may have seen on trademe. Its a ford motorsport block with 4 bolt mains, edelbrock alloy heads, scat crank rods pistons, super victor intake and is dry sumped. Came with all lines, tank and pump etc. I also bough an LSD 9 Inch off the same guy. Should be good for about 550hp, Have started taking it apart to re paint the block and check over everything, such a cool pulley setup on the front. .
  34. 13 likes
    Got the tailgate painted (nothing special I must say) and the glass reinstalled with a new rubber and plenty of goo. Sore thumbs after that effort. Drove up to Ohakune for a weekend with the Morris Enthusiasts Club (yes there was a literal Barry in attendance). First stop on Saturday was Horopito. Last time I was there I didn't have this car, so wasn't looking for BMC Farina models. This time was different. Found a (shagged) wagon And others Grabbed a right rear door interior panel off this one, as I didn't have one at all. It's not quite a match, but better than nothing. We also visited the Chateau, and Te Porere Redoubt on that side of the mountain. Sunday we stopped at the Tangiwai memorial which has been upgraded quite a bit since last year. Turned off the main highway at the railway crossing near Tangiwai and headed down the Turakina Valley. Mostly dirt roads down this way. Stopped for a cup of tea, and then lunch on this route. Also at a waterfall. Exited the back roads at Hunterville and headed home via P North. Took quite a while to wash the mud out from under the car (first wash since Nats I think) Weather was actually quite good (especially compared to the forecast) so didn't get to test the water-tightness of the duct-taped front screen seal. That will be the next bit to be worked on I think.
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    Oh hey, an update, of pretty much the same old boring rinse and repeat sort of shit. Axuillery shaft bearings turned up and were correct. Deff feels alot nicer in there. Then all my work mates were on my case telling me its stripped down this much, why not pull the crank out and do a complete check over. So that was my Saturday. After a bunch of measuring found that number 1 main bearing was measuring up a bit odd diganoly across the oil holes and had a tad bit of extra clearance. So we worked some magic and got that sorted so it's within spec. So, hopefully, the combination of the main bearing and the Axuillery shaft bearing clearances now being a bit better will cure this oil pressure problem. Motor is now all buttoned back up, and with a bit of luck I will be swapping it over again this weekend, just depends on how packed with cars we are come Friday. Other option is I do at lock up, which will take 3 times as long most likely. Anyway. Exciting I know! Heres a picture of what looks like all the others of this motor lol. In other news I have been driving this with the 2l all this week. Has been nice using it, especially since the heater started actually making heat haha. But my god its slow with that engine.
  36. 13 likes
    Woo, more stuff. Good and bad.... So the good. Had the windows tinted. Has made it much cleaner looking. Excuse bad photos. Fitted up front lip. (Fitment isn't 100% due to slightly warped guard.) Looks so much coooolleerrr. Swapped factory engine mounts back in. No more vibrations through the car anymore. Note to self, for street driven car, do not put polyurethane engine mounts in. And the bad Took it for a drive to Tauranga last weekend. All good, or so I thought. Lifted it up on the hoist at work to do a quick check over on everything and oh good lord, fluid everywhere. Rear gearbox seal and front pinion seal on diff are leaking terribly. And I've blown the left rear shock. So, back home and on stands again. Seeing as I had to pull the diff out, I decided to replace the crown wheel and pinion so I can get my rev and speedo to more friendly. So managed to track down a 3.5 Hilux diff, bought that. I've got a drivetrain specialist swapping the crown wheel and pinion to my current LSD centre, tightening the LSD a bit more and giving it a freshen up with new bearings and seal/s. Should be perfect afterwards. While it's in pieces, I got the axles checked to make sure there was no runout as one of the brake rotors was grinding on the caliper. No issues there so I think my caliper is a few mm to close to the hub, so I'm getting new brackets cut out as well to improve that. So it's in pieces, random photo for the sake of another photo. I've still got to take a shock out to send to Autolign so they can match it with some damper adjustable Bilstein ones. Also had to go through and pull my drivers door apart to get the window out as one of the plastic guides for it had fallen off. Thankfully I had a complete parts door I was able to pull apart first to see how difficult it was. (Turns out it's easy as shit.) Factory plastic guide had a crack through it so it had come loose. Put the one from the parts door in, and it's perfect. And because we were working on it late one night, group photo at my work! Once the diff is back in, I'll take it somewhere nice to get a couple of decent photos of it. I haven't managed to take any proper ones since it's been road legal.
  37. 12 likes
    I'm back! had another jobs taking up all my spare time but that's out of the shed and I can forge on with Mine. in the interim, in no particular order I got some dobi springs and mk1 golf gas shocks, front of car bottoms out pretty bad when cornering and bumping. Probably doesn't have bump stops in there but may as well upgrade, they were cheap. Need to shorten the struts to accept the shorter golf shocks. nick the fab wizard at MFS has the manifolds and carbs to cobble together. I got Rob to spec up a cam and kelford ground it, gave stuff to ERS in tai tapu- head planed around a mil, he skimmed the block for free 'cause it looks good and the gasket will grip nice', and installed the cam bearings. brendon gave me a stack of rockers to go through and find a good one so I did, pulled it apart and cleaned up ready. picked engine up last nite so today I cleaned up the ports and casting marks, cleaned the head, lapped the valves, loaded the springs and put the rockers on. also cleaned and polished the crank, rehoned, cleaned out the block and galleries. i was in the mood to assemble it but a mate is keen to see how they go together so I'll hopefully do that this week.
  38. 12 likes
    Been doing a bit of work on the Corvair. I took it down to my brothers workshop and they've removed the rust in the floors. Its starting to look good... I got the fun job of cleaning the floor panels of any surface rust to keep the repair certifiers and vinning people happy. Now that the rust is pretty much done with sealing left to do we've been talking with the vinning people to figure out seat belts and what they want. Hopefully go with lap belts. I've been busy collecting 13" four spoke Cragar's. I've found another set; standard offset 5.5" that are in decent condition and have one more 13x7 on its way from America.
  39. 12 likes
    Here's what it looks like fresh out of the can. Horrible stuff to spray, comes out like glue and doesn't cover very well. I wish I'd used a darker/brown basecoat instead of just grey primer. Oh well! Still looks rad. Also two cans wasn't enough sp picked up a third from Takapuna Art Supplies. Looks browner/darker with the 2K Lyndar clear on it. Then came the reassembly. Easiest way to do this was to flip the bike upside down and work that way. Also gave the engine/exhaust a quick cover with silver high heat enamel. As mentioned earlier I trimmed the springs... Maybe too much. Looks ideal but rides terribly with lots of reverse rake. Will see what options AliExpress has to rectify this. That rim tuck though! Needs a final clean / chrome polish / tyre writing finishing and wiring tidy up but I'm really happy with the final look! Some of the paint isn't quite right with chips, not even coverage but the rest of the bike isn't perfect anyway. Also have to repair the cracks and paint the front guard. Here's a before/after. Finally - I need to repaint the rear swing arm chain side as the fuel tap leaks and has melted my paint. Will do this with a white engine enamel or somesuch. Anyone got other recommendations for solvent resistant spray cans? The Lyndar 2K clear was supposed to be but I might not have put enough on. Also the carb isn't right, won't idle slowly or rev smoothly. Any bike carb wizards around Auckland that can help me? Other than that super happy with how it looks - 3 years later!
  40. 12 likes
    I have just returned from an epic roadie to collect a new toy. Actually I arrived 4 minutes before midnight Sunday, but mentally it's taken til today to catch up. Awesome trip, but I am reminded that I'm not 20 anymore. Did the drive from Clevedon to Rangiora in one day with a loaded tandem. I booked a cabin on the Ferry. I highly recommend. Dragged this out of a damp rotting dirt floored cow shed from where it hasn't moved for 19 years. Back story, yarning to work colleague while on layover in LA and somehow got talking about this MG he got out of North Dakota in 1993. The conversation ended with an offer of said MG in return for a box of craft IPAs. So, big hammer to smash the brake drums, a shot of air in the cracked tyres and onto the trailer... Many hours and litres of diesel later... to wind up here That's apprentice No 3 looking very excited in my NEW SHED!!! Bought a 10 acre block with this beauty on it. Upshot, no time or money for cars because house building. Anyway, this thread is about my Fiat, so, Relevance? Picked up a 5 speed box for the Fiat on the way.
  41. 12 likes
    So I got around to compression testing this thing which didn't quite go as planned. Long story short I wasn't able to get enough juice to it (via jumper leads from a running car) so it was pretty sluggish to turn over and it wasn't cranking fast enough to build decent compression (Putting my finger over an open glow plug hole was enough to slow it down haha). Would get zero on a cylinder, then try again one same cylinder and get like 200 then try again and get zero again. One take out was that all cylinders seemed to behave the same and no obvious signs of one being worse than the others. So that said have decided to commit to chucking it in and hope for the best. Watch this space.
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    Be a good girl and wait here for awhile...
  44. 12 likes
    oh wicked! i own this now and its manual with a 1g-gteu twinturbo motor in it
  45. 11 likes
    Stupid update #3Thought I'd save Darrell the shit job of bolting up the front fenders as some dickhead (me) thought Stainless allen head bolts would be "cool" pointless photo. shitty photo.they do look pretty, I hope I never have to touch them again, the ones up behind the headlight buckets were pigs!Started cleaning up all the dash components, ignition switch came up awesome! love the solid old quality these old "economy" cars have. I got a new/old dip switch awhile ago, which I had also cleaned up and fitted.My original switch fucked out years ago and was replaced with a modern version which when used would make this hollow boing! sound. the lovely old one makes a very satisfying "click clack" like a small rifle being loaded. much better.had to test fit the tail lights. yeah.did a few other wee things like fitted the engine lid seal, polished up the dirty old fuel line and started to suss fitting that, also pulled the new wiring loom out of its box for the first time, would like to try and feed it through the roof before I stick the body back on the pan.
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    Darrell came over and gave me a hand last night, Cheers D.Progress was hampered by my dumbass misplacing the pivot bolts for the bonnet hinges. I did get the engine lid on at least.
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    Finally have a photo. And for the sake of it, a before (when I first got it) and after (today).
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