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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/11/17 in all areas

  1. so a bit of an update. Dave and Evan came to town today and got crazy with a grinder. they cut/cleaned the heater channels. after that we made some progress with bolting the engine in all in and hanging there buy it self now. pretty happy with tha i then shot to phils panel and paint (mates business) we then got crazy and sanded the body and ended up painting it in primer tomorrow will run pipes so i can have a radiator and will sort out a few other parts. exhaust and what ever some one has spare time to do. pretty exciting and amped to get it done now.
    13 points
  2. Been away for a few weeks camping, was supposed to take this as the tow vehicle but oh well. Next year maybe. Escort Van trailer went great, really miss having a van tho. Anywho, by the time we got back a few orders had showed up (ie not before xmans ), from LadaPower.com, Fiatparts.co.nz and WuM-Autotiele (ebay), main bits i was waiting on were the Starter bushes. No Shots of that but its all shiney in there new with new bushes and brushes. Still a bit intermittent tho :/ Will try better earthing. (I just realised what the red gear knob and rubber straps appear to be) A few parts are going to have to wait till the next rebuild like this adjustable cam sprocket: Anyway, with the starter installed and timing (finally!) set, it rolled under outside under its own steam for a wash and a drive. After a few more checks and tightening of varois clamps and nuts it was Family wagon outing in the the Familiare time And a bit of brum brum, this is after a few runs up and down my road and a blast up to the top of this hill: As mentioned the car seems to be getting better with some use (despite not having any advance at all) Engine so far has no oil leaks or majorly disturbing sounds, and seems to hold water fine. Ive since fiddled with some shakedown stuff: - ajusted the clutch - adjusted gear shift mechanism - swapped parts between 3 spare dizzies and new parts to heve one good dizzy with advance! just needed * advance weights * not ruined advance springs * not worn out pegs for weights and springs * working vacuum advance thinger * clean and lube, new dissy cap, rotor and points (already done before) - new oil light sender - actually a dud - dash out loose wires on some lights * also adjust choke on and handbrake on switches so they are not on all the time, and water temp guage wire so it works - changed out cheapo run in oil (no metallic flakes/poweder of any note) Tomorrow ill retorque the head bolts and adjust the tappets and take it for another blast. Feels good man!
    11 points
  3. W.o.f. time....... fail, soooooooooo nothing good enough in the spares pile, so lets see what change i get out've $1500. Need a tierod end, easy enough. blown one of the N.O.S front shocks hmmmmmm- find something better? Why the hell not.... custom Bilsteins!!!!!. All round Struts head away tomorrow to get new inserts, finish ripping the bits out check them over, a bush kit for the back to stop the diff doing the job the fronts supposed to do... steer!!!!! Better give it a bath in there too, scruitineers wont want to see that mess at its next appearance at teretonga
    5 points
  4. Ms112 disc brake diff pretty much mounted in place ( f series )
    4 points
  5. Okay after a long break of having no motivation to do anything I finially got my shit together and slapped the motor in!! I considered it a big deal because I've never swaped an engine out before but i finally got it in. All i have to do now is alot of stuff... and then try start it!! So i took it off the axle stands for a celebratory photo for more motivation
    4 points
  6. Thought I'd chuck this recent build up for those that are interested. I priced up getting a new trailer built but the costs where high looking around 140k For the spec we where after and the lead in times to get it built where about 5 months. So I hunted around and found a good starting trailer , was a ex farmers transport stock Unit out of Hastings , it was rough as with rusted out deck but had good bones. The trailers has SAF air bagged axles running low profile 19.5 alloca alloys. Trailer also had sliding drawbar with50mm toe eye which will be removed and new drawbar Built .we also wanted to retain the 29000kgs gvm So we done a deal and picked up the trailer and bought it back the workshop I started off by giving it a full steam clean then set about cutting off all the parts we would be not be Needing these included all the cross members , combing rails and deck Then made up ramps and rear off deck, next was to shorten the trailer so I braced the rails to make Sure nothing would move during the cut and rejoin process , I cut 1200mm out off the chassis rails Just in front of the 3rd axle suspension . After veeing out all sections to ensure a good even weld when we joined it back up , the chassis had to be fish plated top bottom and sides with grade 350 plate to ensure strength and also to pass LT400 certification We cut the old drip trays out and used sections of the old chassis to fill the graps Because we we cut more than 900mm out of the chassis this meant the we would have to bring the Braking up to the latest specifications this in included fitting abs ,ebs and had to qualifie for static roll threshold. Next step was to take out the entire braking system and throw away all except the hand brake control valve , I ground back and cleaned up all welds and paint of the inside and outside of the chassis rails then cut out panels of grade 350 plate and plate over all existing cross member holes To give strength to the new channel that would welded in , each new cross member was made individual to make sure the fit was perfect the centre cross members are flush with top of chassis and side cross members sit 40mm Lower to allow for decking timber. With all members and rails on inproflie cut 36 tie down points to fitted in side the channel out of 20mm grade 350 ,I did this to ensure we get a 6000kg tie down at each cross member . Then a new drawbar was made and fitted just enough to give clearance when tight turning. Next was the braking system, I went with a wabco setup so axles had to have wheel sensors and Trigger wheel hub caps fitted. Mount the ECU's and run all the pipe work I also upsized the air bag piping to half inch .i mounted a power pack and 24v battery supply to run the Hydralic ramps to Make the ramp set up work independently from the truck , we run a out out of the ecu to trickle charge the batteries we the abs is plugged in. We also fitted a dump valve on the air bags so when the trailer is being loaded it won't try and wheel stand , but will also automatically raise when the hand brake is released. Next we run all new wiring for the led lights fitted tool box and made oversize sign holders. Lined the trailer with new timber and tread plates, made a mesh holder for chains and twitches at front of trailer ,painted entire trailer inside and out. Fitted new shocks and mounting pins, new 24/30 brake chambers , refined 3rd and 4th axles with new drums and shoes etc. Then to the weigh bridge it come in at 6000kgs All signed of with LT400 for new drawbar , chassis modification,change of purpose Braking system all signed off including SRT and heavy brake coding. Run it through for compliance for a measure up and braking etc then cof time Probably things I've missed , it was a big job but very satisfying.
    3 points
  7. About 65k all done had I valued for insurance purposes and came in at 92k so was a good result. I kept the low ramps and approach angles because we also have a road paving machine among other machine we cart around When combined with our hook loader setup we can drive machines straight though to the truck also
    2 points
  8. Cheers guys and girls. This is a pretty great response! I have tried many times to contact the curator of the Pine Harbour Motorsport Museum but to no avail. BUT, the museum is completely glass sided so we can park up at the Marina and take a good look around as the children wonder why Daddy and his friends are getting excited over cars with funny paint jobs. I am aware of how busy it gets out Maraetai way on weekends but we can always cruise a little bit further if required. Either way, it's a pretty relaxed affair so no stress. I need to put this diff into the police car asap so I can attend in it. Otherwise I may have to bring the Triumph. I'm going to cruise out to the Pine Harbour area tonight for a bit of a looksie.
    2 points
  9. Project_KP61_4AGE_2017-10 by Richard Opie, on Flickr CLEAR WINKER! Anyway it's 2017 so I better try and do a little bit more on it this year. Edit: I can't seem to hot link any more from Flickr to the new forum, nevermind
    2 points
  10. 2 points
  11. Yeap Soooooo I caved and tidied up my pedal box - passivated bits, paint and new rubbers…. The door window mechanisms got some lovin also The door felt metal trim got a spruce up also - good old black paint anti rust I painted the rusty door frame, as I am a firm believer of black door frames on RX2 coupes - as much as I liked the patina Glass in and all rubbers excl the door card Suspension is done any day now. S5 13bt box has had another mod with MX5 remote shifter, so it should fit in the tunnel hole now. Mazda 24 spline LSD rebuilt with 4:4 gear and new bearings etc New rad and cooler coming up this week http://www.iforce.co.nz/
    2 points
  12. I've done a bit of fucking around with the front end to get it to handle better. i had about a 15mm gap between the rim and the strut on the inside so i decided it would be good to decrease the scrub radius as much as i could to stop it feeling all twitchy at speed. by a combo of different length LCA's, narrower spacer and a couple of other things i managed to get the wheel within 3mm of the strut. the difference is night and day. the caster, camber and toe are all over the show and basically set up by eye but its millions better than it was. ill get the front end setup properly next week but its already a massive win.
    2 points
  13. Went to the Oldschool Drags and it was farkin sweet Best run was a 13.583@108.63mph(174kmh) which I was pretty happy with for the first time out. Cheers to Simon for suggesting some of my nuganuga engine noise could be VVT pulley, gave the solenoid 12v at idle and 70% of the noise went away so I haven't had working VVT for a while it would seem, new pulley ordered anyway. Tried to flick across to high boost on one run in 3rd but motor was pretty warm and coils may have been to hot as it seemed to break up a little and didn't go any faster. So yeah traction, high boost, some vvt and me not being a shit driver should get me into 12's ezpz. Pics from the day from Dorian, always good shots! Right before Sheepers freight-trained me in the top end And a little video Ricardo snapped between his tower duties! Cheers to all who made it a neat as day. Can't wait to do more drags & trackdays now that I've broken the hymen of properly giving this thing the beans!
    2 points
  14. Project_KP61_4AGE_2016 -1317 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Flare from header to 2.5" pipe Project_KP61_4AGE_2016 -1315 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Braced to gearbox after join to header. Project_KP61_4AGE_2016 -1289 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Then it doorts off down the middle of the car. Project_KP61_4AGE_2016 -1307 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Resonator all snugged up beneath the factory heatshield. Project_KP61_4AGE_2016 -1318 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Looking down the guts (yes the driveshaft is going to fit!).
    2 points
  15. Hey guys bought camels C10 because it's the one that sold me on one when down for chopped, so when there was rumor he might be moving it on I pounced and owned it about 3 days later. Took a couple months to get down there and grab it but jumped on a plane Saturday morning and began driving it up. I'll put a better write up when I get home but for now. A couple pics. was a few good photo ops but when you've been driving all day there's little enthusiasm to do such things.
    1 point
  16. I put the water pump on the churbo motor and then put on and took off the timing belt 3 times because I forgot stuff. First time I forgot the engine mount bracket, Second time I had forgotten the plastic stone/dust shield and 3rd because I hadnt torqued any of the cam cap/bearing bolts
    1 point
  17. Or maybe I should get the scoot together Why is nothing together?
    1 point
  18. I have some live Triumph plates you can use puhuhuhu. /slam some dealer plates on it and drive there.
    1 point
  19. fixed! apparently can't change a private event to public. lesson learnt.
    1 point
  20. Man came out awesome, looks really good, far better than it sitting in my shed
    1 point
  21. Fair enough, you should consider trying to find a replacement for that oil pressure brass tee in stainless. Vibration plus brass can = crack.
    1 point
  22. Okay so who wants to try explain this one for me? Orange line is engine temp. Red line is oil temp before the oil cooler. Blue line is oil temp after the cooler. At a certain point of track day run, my oil cooler appears to be heating the oil hahaha. I am wondering if exhaust heat is influencing the reading of the "After cooler" sensor, as it's line of sight to exhaust manifold. The "before" sensor isnt line of sight to exhaust as it's on far side of oil cooler adaptor.
    1 point
  23. so yeah this is sweet as. this is the war-rig in gissy on the way back. never did end up travelling light! 3 bikes, 3 surfboards, wetties and towels, 2 foam mattresses, 4 pillows and blankets, 20l water, 15kg gas bottle, 2 tents & one ezyup, 2 folding tables, 4 chairs, 3 dozen beers and ciders, 2 tool boxes, jack and spare tyre, cooker, pots pans cups pegs dishwash... loaded up it doesnt need lowering. could do with a sway bar to even it up off kerbs, but it tows really well. Had to roll the guards with a stick from the beach in the campground, lewl now on the look out for a late model high top lwb van...
    1 point
  24. Bit overdue an update on this. JDM tyte. Finished the seat, not got any pictures of the underside but it fits up pretty well now. Just need to put the strap and buckles back on (ooh err). Popped the front end back together just to see how it would look, then back apart to get the bastard engine back in. Engine got a bit of a spruce while it was out, but nothing drastic. Back end will go together this week (hopefully). Waiting on carb diaphragms before they go back on. Started tapping a thread into my new right hand control yesterday to thread the throttle cable sleeve into, but the bastard aluminium cracked. Not particularly pleased about that, but have managed to transplant the internals into the old hand control housing for now. Pretty pleased with progress overall.
    1 point
  25. As promised! this is no diff, no front springs, but 100mm in rear (sitting on 100mm wooden blocks) and held up by the jack in the front (run out of blocks, but a little higher) so achievable ride height on springs in a 50 series crown. its purely for mockup, the wheels are so fucking shit, but came free with my hilux so will do for jobs like this. Definitely got me leaning towards 18's for the finished product though, but will be something a lot more traditional looking, billets would be nice but the stout taught me that I hate polishing wheels comparison height pic cheers Matt
    1 point
  26. Done some more fings, finished the back side of the tubs and cut off extra un needed brackets in the boot.
    1 point
  27. Can i get a sparkplug brad, fo my twennydebt
    1 point
  28. Well has been a busy few weeks for the MRWEST 64, Have got it back from the Dyno after a few hickups but shes all tuned and running better than ever, The misses, pops and cackles and hesitation has all gone now we have the Link G3+ with G4 Extreme firmware wired in and tuned! Runs a heap better. Have also added balance pipe and it sounds a shiiiittt load better, less 2 hondas drag racing and more v8! Stoked on that one as wasnt overly stoked on its sound before. Has a nice idle now everythings been tuned up and adjusted and sounds decent enough with the hammer down, List of shit to do before xmas is long enough ill be busy but nothing major, Bring on some summer cruising!! Pic for fred Yarning down here http://oldschool.co....estpala/page-10
    1 point
  29. Drove to Timaru. Entered a show. Had a good time.
    1 point
  30. Ended up picking up a three legged hone on the way home from work on Friday and spent a sunny weekend putting this back together between surfs. A flex-hone was preferred but they are not existent in NZ on short notice, but are readily avalaible on Ebay, but aint nobody got time fo dat. I honed it just enough to remove the glazing, so a few bits saved for a future proper rebore, "one day" The rust spots in Cylinder 4: Ring wear marks at the top of cyl 6. The flat hone stones makes them look much worse than they are (flex hone would have hidden them), as I can barely see any variation with a straight edge (you can aslo see the hone 'just' scratching them in a couple of spots, so only a couple of thou) but they are there all the same. Just hope they dont 'catch' the new rings too bad. I used the Geotze expander rings of my choice of two sets (the other a more 'normal' set of Grant rings) - i figured with the wear on the cylinders + a hone, that all the expansion i could get would be appreciated. Ring gaps were also slightly above spec meaning the engine is a bit more worn than STD, but the blow by cant be any worse than it was! Made a small dowel from a brass barb from a busted fuel pump to help line up the head on the block and keep the head gasket in place (headless twin cam head bolts I use for the 125 also used in the bigger diameter head bolt holes when dropping the head on) And ended Sunday with the thing back in the hole after resetting the tappets etc. Much easier with the engine out (there is no crank nut to turn on the crank nose due to the centrifugal oil filter) While its out Im also working on a few improvements The 2300 Starter is a bit hit and miss even with a 'new' (ex 125) solenoid - the Delta GTI (might be Croma) starter will 'bolt up' but the pinion has 10 teeth to the 2300s 9, and the teeth will foul on the flywheel without a 5mm spacer, which will also need shaping to fit in the slightly larger diameter hole to help the 2 bolts hold it in place. Alternatively looks like the motor mounting diameter in the aluminium 'nose' is the same, so might be able to swap the bodies over, and maybe the pinions/teeth too? Anyway, something to keep in mind for the future.
    1 point
  31. So she got a tune the other day. Vvt not activated due to solinoid issue an time constraints. Still made 367hp and 450nm. Going for cert next week then back for vvt tune https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HaLmpLiUPUI
    1 point
  32. Started on a new inlet/trumpet setup, to get the extra 50mm runner length as tested with the mdf spacers. will be setup so i can add some extra injectors at a later date, like in this choice drawing: had a burn on the old boys lathe yesterday. machined ends off the existing trumpets and made some new ends. To get max room for extra runner length and new filter, have also modified the inlet manifold. tweaking it up so the trumpets aim at the cut out in the strut tower better. filter is just sitting there not mounted yet.
    1 point
  33. So i'm really slack at updating this. I basically just raced this all season, didn't really make any changes other than subtle suspension tweaks. On the very last meet when the air was quite a bit colder that it had been it seemed to pick up power and grip and i was very suprised for the times top drop quite a bit eventually doing a 11.34@121mph. I was also a bit slack at pressing play on my camera, best in car I got was of a 11.69, I pulled this off facebook so quality is average but I couldnt be bothered going searching for the original file. So the issues I faced over the offseason were the fact that the body had not liked all the abuse, mainly around the triangulated top link mounts of the body, cracks etc had started to appear and I wasnt really that suprised to be honest. So I set about welding up the seams around that area and also welding in some plates above the link mounts and running a brace each side from the roll cage down to the plates. This should hopefully stop the area around there flexing, I also added some welds to the mounts underneath the car just in case. Other problem was in the pics below, the car squats hard on the right rear side and picks up in the front left meaning its always hitting the left rear tire harder, to compensate i wound the right rear coilover up heaps which got the car going straight but theres definately still improvements to be had. So to stop that happening, and to also stop the car ever going around a corner ever again i ordered one of these http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Drag-Race-Anti-Roll-Bars/3125600/10002/-1 a drag specific solid sway bar. These seem to be standard equipment in any decently setup drag car and in theory will stop any twist in the body and hopefully if setup right will improve 60 fts. Ive pretty much finished putting it in, it was an absolute mission to fit due to the lack of space and it wasnt the funnest of jobs but you get the gist of whats going on with it in the pics. Ive also bought some convo pro 15x4 and some mickey thompson front runners as Ive also bought some 24.5x8 Mickey thompson ET Drag for the rear. The plan is to drill the rims for bead screws to stop them spinning on the rim as the radials were moving a little bit on the rim last season. Thats a job thats still yet to be done and im not really looking forward to it as it will be fiddly. Finally ive just had it on the dyno yesterday, Ive made the switch to E85 and also changed the turbo to a newer tech Turbonetics TNX30/52 which I sourced through Barry. Along with a billet compressor wheel it also has a V band exhaust housing which is just a hundred time better than the nissan flanged housing that was on it. Was hoping for more power and better spool and it did not disappoint. Old setup went 280hp on 18 psi and the turbo was clearly not happy running out of puff at 7k rpm. New turbo and e85 combo yesterday made 297hp at 14 psi! and 345hp on the final power run at 20 psi, its also on boost around 500rpm sooner so is a massive improvement. If it can hook up and stay together on the high boost setting it will be rather rapid, should make for an interesting drive thats for sure. Red line is the old setup.
    1 point
  34. Bonus update: over last week quite a bit of progress was made. I had windscreens installed. the brakes which had been giving me grief were diagnosed and resolved. benno diagnosed some wiring faults and then finished some wiring that was beyond me. rear struts were modified to make springs captive, then 10kms of driving later the shocks died so I ended up borrowing some struts for wof. Front bumper mounts were modified so bumper could finally go on. And an array of other small things. Car needs some trims and badges fitted, bonnet finished off and final cut/polish to be readyish to take to timaru in December.
    1 point
  35. Does anyone else think this logo looks uncomfortably similar to a certain famous movie franchise set "a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away"? Picked up the spare Starion radiator from the shop yesterday morning ready to go. It was 70% sludged up, and had a bunch of badly bent cooling fins, but cleaned up quite well and the guys even re-attached the mounting bracket running down the middle. Here it is all shiny with the OEM fans. This will help greatly when I get around to re-fitting the factory air conditioning - the smaller fan on the left is controlled by the HVAC system and engages with the A/C compressor. Trevor French Radiators - look them up, they do a good jerb. I failed to get a photo of the Skyline one but it was even more impressively clean. I should probably throw these fucked tyres in the garbage, and refurbish the standard 5-stud narrowbody wheels. As if I didn't already have a thousand other things to do Also, if people paid more attention to the caution label back in the day, we probably wouldn't have all the old barrys today still whinging "mayte, those turbo Jappas mayte, they're god damn unreliable pieces of junk, mayte. Get a FORD/HOLDEN mayte," before jumping into their Great Wall utes and peeling off in a plume of oil smoke. Finally, to round out this blabbering update of not much usefulness, here's a neat little time capsule of NZDM goodness that the previous owner generously included with the purchase of the car: the factory MMNZ first aid kit. I showed it to Ant and he reckons it's from 1989, as the logo on the top post-dates the Todd era. The kit comes complete with these glorious late '80s versions of Pamol and "Curity" brand bandage tape, along with a bunch of bandages, plasters and other triage-related items, all similarly decades-old and a bit dog-eared. One of the previous owners must have had the lurgy (or a hangover) at some point, because one of the capsules is gone The rest of the packet is still there, but given the expiry date on the side it's most likely all turned toxic by now, so I doubt anyone will want some to cure their headache in any great hurry! I'll inventorize the contents of the kit and pop down to St. John to have it all updated. If we assume a five-year expiry on all the items in the kit then the 1989 production date makes sense. Wow, this newfangled phone of mine actually takes a decent shot. Too used to shitty budget phones with potato quality output! (compare the photo in the second post above) Now that I've got the radiator back, and daylight savings has kicked in, the plan for this coming week is to spend time in the shed after work doing some investigation on the cooling system. Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54171-ted-huangs-starorion-0r10ns-1988-mitsuhishi-starion/
    1 point
  36. Tried on the bumper guard that my parent's bought back from the USA a few years ago. Might need some slight modifications if I want to use it, as it already sits on the ground even though it's not as it's lowest. Started stripping some of the inside. Pulled out the seat and fuel tank which still had about 10 litres of petrol in it. Had some decent lumps of something in there and the outlet was blocked up, which is probably why it never ran anymore. 65 year old sound deadening is the worst to try and remove! Also some steel that surprisingly doesn't have any rust on it. Re-mounted the airbag mounts in the correct place and did some tests.
    1 point
  37. Dropped the moulds off in the morning and had the parts by lunch time! Thats service. The first one had a bit of shrinkage going on in the thicker parts so they dropped the temp a bit on this pore and it worked mint! This is only the right hand side. Left hand side is pretty much the same just doesnt have the cutout.
    1 point
  38. Been talking a bit with the guy that owns the Hamilton car museum. He bought the T57 from the Baillon collection in France. His engine is essentially the same as what im building. Hes given me access to any parts I want when hes got it in bits. To copy and 3D scan etc. So Ive got some pretty cool parts sitting around the living room now. The sump is a beast First ali bit cast! Right hand cam gear cover. Using a David 3D light scanner. Sort of useful to help with drawing in CAD More 3D printed moulds. Perfect for part this big with this detail. Would of taken me days to machine it. Still have to do a lot of sanding and paint to get a good finish. Playing with different filter runner designs. Think im getting a better idea of how to do it. 2016 on the left and 1938 on the right! 70hours from start to finish. But only bout 3 hours to make another one. So I plan to make atleast 3 of each part.
    1 point
  39. Righteo, today had a bit of motivation to do a couple mroe things on the truc, went for a drive to get coffee and ended up swinging past supercheap to pick up a couple things: Dash bulbs,Ciggy lighter/usb thing and also a windscreen washer motor. Ended up with a different model of ciggy combo as the narva one was just going to be too big to fit in the little draw. so grabbed a smaller (and half the price) supercheap item. and a washer bottle kit ( was $7 more then just the motor and came with a bottle, motor,hose, nozzles etc.) I also decided to mount the mirrors/mirror. \ I then moved onto the washer bottle, had to drill a couple more hole to fit, but they hide behind the new bottle and i got use reuse the old screws so thats cool. Took a bit of faffing about as i was getting confused with what wires did what, turns out the washer motor is actually mechnical and runs on a camm with ramped teeth. what a shit setup, so i over rode that and wired in the washer motor to give full noise electrical pump power, not some weird shitty spit spit spit carryon the mech one does. Then i routed the wires into the loom and tidied everything up. Working After this I decided that while not important , may aswell install the ciggy lighter because the dash was apart,i had a new part and it was easy. So i went about finding a feed, luck would have it that the fuseboard had a spare fused acc pin , yay! it also had a spare ground so made things super easy to wire up legit. i was going to epoxy it down but found it came with some sweet 3m sticky pads that hold it in place just fine. so now i have power in the cab. yay! Not the prettiest but it will work well. And all hidden away
    1 point
  40. Okey dokey, so today is a public holiday in Brissy so after a late wake up and walk i decided to get another couple jobs done. Started by removing the dash cluster to check the lights and lube up the gear selector needle a bit (the track was a touch warped which didnt help things. While thats out i decided to check the lights, they seem to work but ill throw new ones at it while it is apart to save dramas later on. I also decided to replace the speedo cable, Camel had purchased one but never got round to fitting, so i did. with the cluster out i could check the old one, seemed to work but could see it was winding up and you could hear scuffing noises, so i replaced it and wow, much quiet and the speedo dont bounce anymore (with a drill driving it anyhow). The cable is also 200mm longer , which is good as i can route it to have a more gentle curve in it. I then quickly dummied up one of the mirrors to see how they look. joined a facebook page for squarebody chevys and saw a couple trucks with these mirros on them albiet chrome, I reckon they are pretty sweet so will mount them and remove the garbage tiny ones that dont do anything. I was rumming around in the cab picking up parts and seeing what else i could add to the list when i found this in the glovebox, pretty sweet spec sheet, o.g too. this truck is awesome. This lead me to finding out the glovebox is held in with two screws pretty much, so thats on the list now too. Diddy and i had a yarn about what else we can do in regaurd to aircon, engine,carb etc but all of those are down the list after getting it legal. i want to hoon around in it!
    1 point
  41. Ok, so took some slightly more shit but closer photos today, still no light when home though so only took a couple. Theres the rear suspension setup , the front is dropped spindles if i remember right. The tray! its soo big and the wellside has cutouts on the edge for some box section to slide right into . So many possibilties Shots of the interior And the engine bay, 350 looks tiny in there hah Even has an o.g jack and linkages.
    1 point
  42. Heres a heap of assembly photos that i didnt put up during the build due to the colour being under wraps haha Final paint prep Out of the booth and first time in the sun! Off to fit up the chassis to the body Freshly painted underside Body going back on chassis
    1 point
  43. front suspension has all been inspected, crack tested and OK'ed. its painted and re-assembled for the last time on the car. ive done the left flare and im doing the right flare now but this is how it will sit. 15x7 on the front but the 15x8's will fit no worries and 15 x 10's on the back. im going to notch the chassis about 30mm at the back to get it this low but thats no biggie. im very happy with how its looking. . sheepers.
    1 point
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