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Showing most liked content on 31/12/16 in all areas

  1. 79 likes
    Discussion Thread - http://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53921-bugatti-t5759-engine/ Ive been lurking on Oldschool for ages. Been told to chuck my project on here because theres a few people interested. Background; Ive always wanted a Lotus 7 and a Bugatti Type 59. Some of you probably know I have done the 7 thing and that turned out ok. So my next job is to build a T59! There were only 6-8 ever built and the last one sold for $6million. Ralph Lauran bought his for $25million so there is no way I could ever buy one. This is bit of a copy paste from another forum so apologies if its all over the show. I wont bore you with a novel so I will get straight into the photos. This is what they look like. Started with collecting every drawing and image I could find. Then made good contacts with restorers in Germany, Poland and France and The Bugatti Trust in the UK who have gone miles out of their way to help.
  2. 38 likes
    All reged wofed and certed! Secondtune with vvti turned on. Made 6hp more but moved all the previous power to instant. Time to start using and abusing
  3. 36 likes
    Dropped the second half on with no drama. So its all bolted up now and ready to go to the foundry at the end of the week. Nailed it Thats like 1000hrs work right there!
  4. 32 likes
    All the outer moulds made with runner/sprue etc. Time to work on the inner core patterns and hopefully pour one early new year. Working out runner system Lower half of the mould Upper half with sprue and filter
  5. 25 likes
    Making patterns for the spring hanger. Got a 3D printer! Does work for you while youre at work! So good.
  6. 22 likes
    Been talking a bit with the guy that owns the Hamilton car museum. He bought the T57 from the Baillon collection in France. His engine is essentially the same as what im building. Hes given me access to any parts I want when hes got it in bits. To copy and 3D scan etc. So Ive got some pretty cool parts sitting around the living room now. The sump is a beast First ali bit cast! Right hand cam gear cover. Using a David 3D light scanner. Sort of useful to help with drawing in CAD More 3D printed moulds. Perfect for part this big with this detail. Would of taken me days to machine it. Still have to do a lot of sanding and paint to get a good finish. Playing with different filter runner designs. Think im getting a better idea of how to do it. 2016 on the left and 1938 on the right! 70hours from start to finish. But only bout 3 hours to make another one. So I plan to make atleast 3 of each part.
  7. 20 likes
    done some more stuff. Mounting the front of the springs was a bit more of a head scratcher because there was a few different ways to do it, was thinking about another rhs crossmember like the back but would get in the way of exhaust etc, another was to put a crush tube in the rail and just bolt the spring to the rail. Ended up doing this though make 4 plates the same 2 are 5mm, need a thinner bit where it sits over a double skin, so put some new 'tooling' in the 'stone mill' and do that make a gusset and weld it all in spring on other side of rail and welded in the rear crossmember, with a jacking point thing that my jack plugs into have made the other side so just have to stick it all together. Because ive put the springs inside the rails I will fit a decent rear swaybar to stop it falling on its doorhandles when it goes around a corner. most people who shift the springs put them directly on the rail so they end up all jacked up which is obviously will probably get another leaf added to stiffen it up as well. The other plates go on the top of the floor, then i can weld something that ties the upper plates into the roll bar.
  8. 19 likes
  9. 17 likes
    picked up most of a 9" diff for it today, I was thinking about using a 28 spline BW or possibly an 8.8 out of an explorer, but this came up for $200. Its missing a few bolts, no axles, and it is way too wide, but narrowing was going to have to be done regardless of what diff I use, can get axles for 9'' easily, same with parts for the center, can get any ratio, etc. its huugemungus and weighs a million heavys, but should be strong enough for what im doing.
  10. 15 likes
    Front shock mounts are nearly done. Spun up some sleeves and spacers for them, since the hole in the rubber bushes was 3/4" and wasn't keen to use bolts that size. Modified the lower mount, needed to be wider to fit the larger shock eyes. Shock at full extension. Slammed. Just need to weld a plate of some sort between the two upper mounts for some extra strength.
  11. 14 likes
    Took the cab outside for the first time in 6 and a half years to sand blast the firewall. Look at all the holes!! Right hand side floor and lower firewall are getting replaced with some new panels that are on the way from the USA. Have filled about a third of the holes so far, out of about 50 holes in total!
  12. 13 likes
    Bit of CAD. Slowly slowly getting there. Most major parts are detailed. A lot to go.
  13. 12 likes
    One front bit of sill done. I decided brown valiants don't need that bit to look the same any more so that made it easier. Any strength lost (I cant see it doing fuck all) by it not being there will be made up for by the cage anyway
  14. 11 likes
    Done some more fings, finished the back side of the tubs and cut off extra un needed brackets in the boot.
  15. 11 likes
    The wagon has received some love lately.I managed to find a series 1 wagon getting wreaked in OZ .He had everything i was missing so the wagon is now complete.I will probably look into getting the badges scanned and 3d printed as they're pretty brittle.He also had a spoiler which looks to be period aftermarket,whats your guys thoughts on it? nothing/roof racks/spoiler? ( spoiler sits a little further out the back) .Also got a NOS grille from Thailand and a bunch of ms112 parts from Seedy AL that will improve the wagons braking. took it for a spin round the block goes well considering stale fuel,no brakes and 20 year old engine oil front to back is filling up with parts
  16. 9 likes
    Finished off the front shock mounts. Made some driveshaft hoops.
  17. 8 likes
    So this isn't an issue anymore... Went for a short wee drive last night. And then this happened about 45 mins from home. Cable ties only melted once on the southern motorway 5k's from home.
  18. 8 likes
    With holidays comes actually time to get stuck in and work on this thing.Its been nothing but problems lately but i have been working though them.I had notched the JZ rear sump and made the engine/gearbox mounts but i wasn't happy with how it was sitting,the steering was only mills away from hitting.I tracked down a crown JZ mid sump,notched the front corners.Everything misses but needed to make another set of mounts.happy with the result ,so now i can get onto making the exhaust,alternator bracket and do all the other small fiddly bits.I hope to go into work tomorrow and push in the new Superpro polyurethane bushes for the ms112 front suspension arms and give it all a nice coat of paint.
  19. 7 likes
    Working away on the tailgate. Pretty fiddly stuff. Have finished repairing the inner braces and the 'inside' structure at both corners. Started with the channel for the seal. I'm doing this in pieces to suit my folder (i.e. bench vise and angle iron). It needs to be curved to match the tailgate opening. Taking the rest of the day off to go to the beach (even though its cold and damp, the beer will be good)
  20. 6 likes
    As promised! this is no diff, no front springs, but 100mm in rear (sitting on 100mm wooden blocks) and held up by the jack in the front (run out of blocks, but a little higher) so achievable ride height on springs in a 50 series crown. its purely for mockup, the wheels are so fucking shit, but came free with my hilux so will do for jobs like this. Definitely got me leaning towards 18's for the finished product though, but will be something a lot more traditional looking, billets would be nice but the stout taught me that I hate polishing wheels comparison height pic cheers Matt
  21. 5 likes
    Back on the panel bashing. There were some dents in the panel below the tailgate, so I used a clamp and some bits and pieces to push them out before a slapper session flattened things out to a reasonable level. Spent money on new tools (18v brushless drill and a spot weld drill) and attacked the tailgate. Between the inner and outer rust, and dents in the outer skin it seemed best to split the two parts. Came apart without too much trouble. Inner frame is in pretty good shape, apart from the lower edges. I'm going to repair it in sections, so first patch is for the worst of the inner section. This piece will repair the shaped area at the inner bottom of the tailgate Also made a start on the hinge brace. Probably the hardest part of this will be the channel section that I guess retains the seal. What's left of it is still attached to the outer skin. A challenge for tomorrow.
  22. 3 likes
    1 month in of driving. The gearbox is making bad noises, the carb is not working properly but running in a reasonable AFR range so its ok, all the door and heater vent seals leak and it fills up water, IT IS SLOOOOOOOOOOOOW. 45kw makes it no rocket ship. Time to change that. Watch This Space...
  23. 2 likes
    Have also made a start on the rear quarter outer part. I found that it had been leaded the past (I stopped and put a proper mask on quick smart) so I cut out the leaded part as I didn't want to deal with it in welding and grinding. Turns out there was quite a big dent there that had been lead filled. As on the other side the vertical closing piece is mostly gone so I've ground that off. Patched the rear panel extension And patterns ready for tomorrow. The spare wheel goes into the compartment which is surprising in at least 3 ways. 1. Good packaging design. 2. The lower screw still works 3. It's not rusted out. It did have some dents which have been roughly bashed out now with a big hammer and piece of steel bar.
  24. 2 likes
    When the pattern fits closely to the metal then you are about there. I panished it as much as I can using a rounded panel hammer on the inside against a steel block, and also bent the flange along one edge. It's not perfect but will do for now. The pipe did a bit of damage to the surface finish but a filler skim should hide that. It's mostly behind the bumper anyway. I need to make the other half too.
  25. 2 likes
    Messed about with the new pit for a while, fine tuning the fit. Hopefully it works out OK. Point of no return passed. The side shape is off here as it isn't on the inner frame. I'm trying a different approach to the welding, more like the StreetNeat bloke on FB. Welding about 20mm at a time then grinding/sanding it flat followed by a hammer/dolly session to get it to the correct shape. Seems to be going OK-ish. It's nice to have access to both sides of the panel for a change. Slow process though, I'm only about 30% of the way across so far.
  26. 1 like
    Yeah should be an improvement, will raise the shift point a fair few RPMs. The way to do it is buy an assortment of cheap rollers in various weights (eBay ftw) and try different combos until you get it how you want it, then once you find what works swap the cheap ones out for a decent set. You can mix 2 different weights too, I'm running 3X 3.5 and 3X 3.75 weights which has put my shift point at 10,750rpm/need to go slightly heavier as my peak power is at about 10,250rpm.
  27. 1 like
    New metal No Metal Always a bit distressing to see the outside from the inside. Have also run new brake lines from the M/C to the rear, including the diff lines and flex hoses (except the passenger front).
  28. 1 like
    This back corner has been smacked at some point and not really repaired at all. A replacement bumper must have been fitted as it would have been damaged as well. Off with it. It's made in two pieces (luckily I guess), and has a lot of shape in it. I made a pattern from some low-tack tape and masking tape on the good side, then turned it inside out to use for this side. Started beating on it with a heavy ball pien hammer over a short bit of exhaust pipe (a sandbag would be better but I don't have one) Not pretty, but effective
  29. 1 like
    Who else is doing rust repairs these holidays? Luckily the weather has been fairly crappy. With the tailgate split, and the rust holding it together removed, the profile (even when assembled together) is way off. This should be flush, not have room to sit a socket. I zapped some spacing tabs to the inner and got it close again.
  30. 1 like
    Yes, quite a few years ago now. Upper wheel is a crane castor of some sort. Frame is all scrap steel bits. Lowers were machined from a hydraulic ram piston rod. Design was based on wheelmachines.com in the early days. Pretty easy to do, mostly from steel plate.
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