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great success. car ran really well and made good power, 375RWKS to be exact and 520lbft of torque. which is a lot. the poor little turbo just couldn't flow any more air. it tried its best but thats the absolute max it will do. I'm happy with that. the car is going really really well, not that i could give it the jandels in the rain, but its running faultlessly. 2016-11-25_12-31-05 by sheepers, on Flickr this is old 2.5L vs new 3L 2016-11-25_12-31-19 by sheepers, on Flickr

So she got a tune the other day. Vvt not activated due to solinoid issue an time constraints. Still made 367hp and 450nm. Going for cert next week then back for vvt tune https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HaLmpLiUPUI

I pulled that radiator out, it was pretty rotten. It is currently getting a recore at Richmond Radiators for an eye bleeding amount of money. I tried to find a replacement but there are very few of this model bus lying around. While I was there I pulled the thermostat lid off to see what things looked like and found not one but two thermostats! both were 88 degrees and fucked. Naturally the many places I rang to find correct replacements for it could tell me literally nothing. Thus I fully owned the internet and discovered that the space they each fit into is exactly the same sizes as a Nissan TD42. Hence from the links and info in a thread I found, I could make a call on what to stick in there, which is an 82 deg that will open first during normal running, then a 90 degree which will open when things get hot going over the Takaka hill. There will be a 5mm gap to the bypass poppet on both. Tell me if that sounds wrong, but holy shit i am now the worlds foremost authority on specifying thermostats on early ED33 motors, so basically you can fuck off. Actually no, please give many opinions. Here we have a radiator sized hole; After all that some exciting things arrived and i got to installing, firstly the 130Ah 12v AGM Batteries that actually fitted in the hole i made for them; The battery meter and chunkier switch for the fridge with a separate feed, as it is the biggest consumer of Ah's; The charge controller; A super tight, pro wiring job using many types of stuff; A fucking enormous 310W solar panel; Also a gas man came and sorted the hob, I can now die of CO poisoning in supreme comfort.

Swapped the old commodore driveshaft for a station wagon one which is slightly longer and pretty much the perfect length. So then picked up a new yoke and universal joint to mate up to the transmission. Even clears the floor by ~2mm! Made a driveshaft mount to dummy it up, which worked alright but the driveshaft angled quite a lot when the bags are right down. Need to make another that's about 30mm higher. Running gear basically complete!

Hey ya. So recently I picked up a new project now my 52 Buick is complete – a 1949 Hudson Super. Story goes I was browsing auctions with no intention of buying anything just cyber tire kicking so to speak. “Hey a cool old barn find car has surfaced 45 mins away. Want go take a look?” i ask my better half. With a promise that we would go get something tasty for lunch we pile in the old 52. Walking up to it & seeing the fastback shape and roof that looks chopped straight from the factory the better half mutters “I wont say no if you want to buy it” ^^ what more can i say… talked the price down for cash & shook hands with plans to pick it up the following day. Next day swapped the fat wad of bills for the original registration papers, original ownership papers showing two owners (father then son), a few old photos from 1962 and a set of keys to a car that hadn’t been started for 47 years. Now I already have a Straight 8 in the Buick and not really interested in another inline. Fabulous Hudson Hornet NASCAR history or not. Saying this im not into chevy swaps. I do like Buick Nailheads… rare here in New Zealand and always catch my attention when dressed up. I look at the Husdon, scratch the ol chin and go “yus sir that would be mighty fine”. Nailheads have an old school look that would suit that engine bay mighty fine. Images from the Auction & First Look. So what the old timer said was wrong with it: Fuel tank out as he has had it patched n cleaned cus had a few small leaks. trunk floor has a split where fuel tank mounts. guessing due to weight & old NZ roads being not the best etc small patch rust on left rear skirt. patch rust on right front panel. front right door pillar has a split at bottom. apparently he use to chat to people leaning on the open door and thinks this might of been the issue. brake Master cylinder needs put back in as it and all the drums have been redone. Water pump is at a shop getting redone. Rats have nested in seats. All easy stuff really. the splits are clean stress splits with no rust or nasty stuff to be seen. Still trying to figure out my build. Any help or ideas are most welcome. I do know the history of Hudson and NASCAR etc but I already have a hotrod looking restored car and dont want another. im after a more custom look. I haven’t been in a Hudson moving under its own power so im unsure of many things like suspension etc. Plan so far: worked 401 Nailhead. (hard to get here so may need import) Worked 700R4 trans rewire using American Autowire highway 22kit. Wilwood disks all around. Media blast. Shave the handles. French the lights. and do all the normal custom shiz Change up the grill. Lower it. new interior. Thinking 9 inch in the rear to handle the Nailheads torque and power. Not sure what ratio. Not sure for front end. I read how great the near 70 year old front end was. Maybe new hubs for disk brakes and a thicker swaybar. But then i think why not just throw in a jag IFS. comes with disks, power steering etc and is cheap here in New Zealand (cheaper than reworking the old hudsons setup) Driveshaft – unsure. one or 2 piece… So ideas? Suggestions? This will be an expensive project for me. Being at the bottom of the world/New Zealand means expensive shipping. We have a lot of Holdens here and a fair few Euro cars. after a old school look & sound with if possible a more modern handling. Thanks guys Alex

thanks fullahs! i got to give it one low boost "semi jandle" just before it started raining proper and it fucked off in a big hurry so I'm looking forward to giving it some dry weather jandle with all the boosts. that might be later next week because i accidentally cut a hole in it with an angle grinder this afternoon so ill have to do something about that……...

might have got 380 if you used the triumph head

thinking i'll be getting 185/60/13's. I've got some old 205/60/13's that i'll get them to test fit and see. Gonna be tight!

Hey Guys. I'm so new it's not even funny to old school. I thought id start a thread on a shed project that started out as something simple and has turned into a thing that is now taking over. All I wanted to do was test fuel injectors. I'm a mechanic by trade so I have the basics. I get that you can touch a injector on a 12v battery and get it to click. But what if we need to find out things about our injectors? I could out source them for a quick service and drop $30 per injector for a quick buzz in a ultrasonic bath.... But I think we are only scratching the surface. What if we need to find out some data? I think these little clicking givers of fuel are more important than you think. for a start: Battery offset standard dynamic service of injectors deviation vs pulse width injector latency injector linearity This will get us started. I am going to build a injector test rig that will do far more than a injector test machine. Im at a total loss why a quality test bench like a ASNU costs $12.000 kiwi. It's just out of control and will give no control over injector voltage. So with that for a intro i'll just leave a few pics and come back in the weekend. This is the pic that started this all off. It's a big dollar bench that is run on a haltech. It has the grunt to handle injectors of 5000cc it's the balls if you run methanol or if you want to know about injectors. What I will build will be first of all the prototype and a proof of concept that I can develop out. many more pics to come.

Angle grinder? So you doing full tub for Micky T drag slicks then! Good job sheepers

Well, have sold the KE20 and the guy wanted the original running gear in it. Removed the hilux rear end and coil over front end (from a starlet I think originally). Had some TA63 LCA's lying around and though I would try them with the struts I had, they are about 25mm longer than standard and mated up the the struts so chuffed about that! Now as you can see the tie rods don't really reach that far... would wind them out if they weren't rusted and acually let me to turn them out. ah well. Looks quite staunch for the time being. On the list over the coming weeks #Rebuild 4A-GE Small port. have bought heaps of OEM bolts and a few things from Bazza at MRP and also some TODA gear in from Japan. Should be a beautiful engine bay somewhere down the line **Spin a yarn** //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/

Made the extension parts on the front end for where the sway bar mounts to. Cut out old piece that looked like this: Fabricate a new piece that fits in nicely. And another piece for strength. Weld, weld, weld Mounts like so, just waiting until I get some sway bar link bushes first before drilling the holes, as the current ones are pretty stuffed and pull it over to one side.

Could be keen if you dont want to be lonely and shit?

Awesome result! That's a hefty stack of power, and I admire your persistence to turn this around so quickly from the fault with the other engine. I'll buy you a pie for your efforts, top work Dave.

Always wanted one of these... http://www.internationalmotorgroups.com/imgmagazine1.html

I wouldn't consider it cured until you've performed a stationary full load cooling system test. I can come up and do this for you if you like.

Just bought a factory thermostat myself, ain't got time for the Tridon shuffle you put the tridon part in, you take the tridon part out you put the tridon part in and shake your fist all about

Pretty excited to get these on the car!!!! tyre choice is gonna be interesting

I have thrown a few more hours at the old fruit since the last update. Finished the interior insulation/lining/wiring, the lining was very time consuming... My eldest daughter is on a massive sewing malarky at the moment making pillows and such, so once the mattresses arrived I trimmed them down to suit the space and together we re-sewed the covers. She did a bloody good job too. The main bed width is 40mm shy of super king size, it is a lush and spacious area, I am looking forward to the first kip I have on this. We took it to the speedway on the weekend and lounged about while everyone else sat in their cars waiting to get out, it was mint. You can also see the start of the control panel for all the stuff that will be connected to the solar power. You can also just see those two black dots above the main bed - those are usb ports for night time phone charging etc. Must remember to install the bilge blower eh.

Spun up some shock mounts for the rear. Top ones got welded through the RHS that goes between the C-notch. Bottom pair got welded to a plate which was then welded to the lower 4-link brackets. Added the commodore sway bar as well. Once everything was fitted we tested it and worked well. Fully welded all the diff and airbag mounts etc so is pretty done for now. Started on the front end again. Test fitted the sway bar and it only just fits in between the chassis and front end. Need to make up some mounts and maybe scallop a bit out for more clearance. Front shock mounts will look something like this. Drew them up and now just waiting for them to be laser cut.

Tried on the bumper guard that my parent's bought back from the USA a few years ago. Might need some slight modifications if I want to use it, as it already sits on the ground even though it's not as it's lowest. Started stripping some of the inside. Pulled out the seat and fuel tank which still had about 10 litres of petrol in it. Had some decent lumps of something in there and the outlet was blocked up, which is probably why it never ran anymore. 65 year old sound deadening is the worst to try and remove! Also some steel that surprisingly doesn't have any rust on it. Re-mounted the airbag mounts in the correct place and did some tests.

Discuss : //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49000-stylez-gx61-mkii-hardtop-couch-spec-disc/?p=1544979 Righto. So I sold the Wolseley, as we have our first wee one on the way in about a month! This will be a second err... Family? Car. Gx61 mk2 hardtop Couch spec. Factory Manual. Oh, and I had some change for these Work Equip 01s. Flying up to Chch Sunday and driving home. Stoked. Discuss : //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49000-stylez-gx61-mkii-hardtop-couch-spec-disc/?p=1544979

Banter here, //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54510-kelvins-1985-rover-sd1-banter/ Hi everyone. Long time reader, first time poster. I have this thread posted on a couple of others, and thought it might be of interest to some members here. This thread will begin at the start, way back in.... November, last year and end at current day. So, about 10 years ago I had an SD1, an 85 Vanden Plas EFI in Cashmere Gold. Sadly i sold it because i couldnt afford to run it as my daily back then, and have regretted selling it since. Anyway, yesterday i picked the new toy up. Its a 1985 Rover SD1 Vanden Plas EFI (again), but in Zircon Blue. It needs some love, but its got good bones. It runs and drives, and actually drives really well. The powerhouse So the plan is to give it a really good tidy up, get it in as good condition as i can, but also build a new engine wiring harness and install my Speeduino ECU. Early next year i intend to use the car as my wedding car, so the clock is ticking! Theres more info on the car on my website too. http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/cars/rover-sd1-two/

Hey Aim of this thread is to try and get us to get together as a community and hang out more often/meet each other and get our junk going! This thread can be used to organise help/working bees ect. Firstly I think it would be great for those of you who have a scooter or a bike that doesn't run or needs work to try get it going before our ride next year. (As I know there's a few of you out there) I understand it's a super busy/expensive time of year to do this. But where's the harm in trying?

So did the 6 or so hour round trip with the trailer to collect my new found treasures. Sun was shining, my bird was looking top shelf and i do believe i had a grin on my stupid face the whole way. felt likeChristmas from when i was knee high to a grasshopper. Eager dosnt begin to describe the feeling. As the three pallets got loaded up we had the pleasure of checking out a number of old cars that people are bringing in from around the world. One being this sweet 54 Buick convertible. So loaded we head back home. constantly catching my self speeding in my eagerness to arrive home and unload. Have i mentioned the feeling of Christmas day when i was a kid yet? Throw a few brews to the neighbor to get his tractor with forks out to help unload and im golden. Popped of the engines crate – will note here that my cordless drill died recently and i had to undo all the screws by hand. Frustrating to say the least. LET ME IN! <insert xmas day remark> Pictured is most of whats needed to get the car updated and running. Some things like drive shaft, rad, steering column etc i need to wait to get measurements. Other things like ignition system, 2×4 intake etc are still on there way. But new front end by Rods by Reid, New rare from Moser, Ridetech 4-Link along with air system, Wilwood, worked 700R4 Trans and of course the worked 401 nailhead along with other bits are sitting there ready to find there new home in the Crudson. Missing one package from Ridetech. Have images of it packed in the crate from Kiwi Shipping USA. But wasnt included on pickup in Christchurch New Zealand. Need those airbags for the rare and Kiwi Shipping are looking into it as i type. <Insert excited Christmas quote here> So its time to finish ripping the car apart. How it sits currently: Exhaust system, driveshaft, fuel cell, engine & trans etc all out. Time to get those front panels off so we have easy access to the front chassis rails so Flockie can do his measurements and then cut em off and make up a new set. Got a few good vids of the missus hard at work on the car. Think she would kill me (or worse deprive me) if i was to post them. Still funny stuff to look back on. To the garage and general mayhem i go.

Forgot to add: Got it home & got the trunk welded up. Hooked up the gas tank. Put the brake system back together. Changed the oil, plugs and battery. Suck through some gas and spat the left overs into the carb. Took a mighty sip of my favorite brew- just to wash out my mouth honest. Turned the key. Started right up!!! Soon noticed the exhaust pipe ended a few feet from the headers. Hard to miss once its turned on. Not that concerned as its all coming out anyway. Turned it off after 10 seconds or so due to no water pump but feeling confident that once i get the pump the old thing might move under its own power. Have read about the clutches can get stuck after long periods of not being used so might have to check that to i guess. Looking at the concoctions people list for Hudson clutch fluid makes me think of some demented witches brew. Then its just get a vid of it turned on and if possible moving and stopping under its own power. then rip it all out and flick it off to the restoration guys

Running so far behind due to Akl wet weather traffic

Nice work! This thing would be a handful in today's weather!

Cool. Cheers. Just thinking.. if one was to wire up a relay to the oil pressure switch it would have to be a 'normally on' or two way relay eh. I think.. (from early morning sleepy time electrical circuit planning) Or with a timer just wire it to ignition circuit? No good if someone leaves ignition on though.

Could possibly do a BBQ at mine in the arvo if peeps are keen depending on attendance/weirdos?

That was a fun fang back to Hamilton.

How was it driving you're hiace out there brent? I think our 1st order of fush nd chups was 68 and we went threw to 112 I remember another mate ordering. Bloody good night. Ready for Januarys one now.

if you space the sensor out so only the very tip is in the exhaust flow, will help if you have over temp issues. and can put piece of copper plate or something between the sensor and bung to pull a little more heat away from it.

I can do not alot but can change tyres do polishing etc etc also have access to random tools through work dynadrill taps welding stuff give us a bell if you need some assistance.

I'm good at making cups of tea and shit coffee so if you need that give me a shout

Long time no post. Just got back from Hamilton via rotorua. Still going strong. Have picked up some kind of vibration. Hoping it's a wheel bearing. Also, next stop.... Zu tutu tutu tutu! !!!!!!

32/36 weber?

I have an alternative west aucks shed with assorted tools and shit that GC's are semi-welcome to use - ONly prob is the bay with cars that intermittently run parked in it, depending on whether i've started something and not got the right part to finish it, or too broke to finish, or too many beers, you know the drill, but yeah, if I have notice can usually move a car and create a west auck option with a light duty welder, compressor and fluff like that. No hondas. Well, maybe.

.

Great idea Mayte, I'm happy to volunteer my shed in Ardmore as a venue for working on things together. It has power, lighting, water and a bunch of tools etc. Also, I'll be needing a hand to make some modifications to the shed in the near future, consisting of: - Building a small wall in one corner (dynabolted bottom plates and a basic frame) - Chipping out part of the entry ramp into the shed (it's just hardfill and rocks) - Trimming the weeds with a line trimmer - Sealing some of the minor roof leaks - Replacing the old chicken wire with a solid barrier - Possibly removing a wall between my two sheds - Installing lights and powerpoints in one shed (just a hand to run the cables would be swell) Happy to provide beers/Sharns/music/a BBQ and get a few blokes 'round to chip in.

maybe check the tree tops and high up in the lamp posts for crumpled blue celicas.

horsepower? no,no. not 400 horsepower. 400 killerwasps.

Friday took the day off and painted it... prob should have posted this before the last post but meh!

By a happy coincidence I has a stack of 25mm polystyrene sheet and the roof frame was 25mm box section, so the interior fitout has proceeded thus; This is more for sound deadening than anything as the special poo seems to do the trick, an hour in direct sunlight and the inside metal is blood warm, not egg frying hot. This all took a lot of time, each sheet needed at least 5 mount/dismounts before the fit was ok. The sheets then got a coat of polyurethane before final fitment. The lower sides have polystyrene behind them as well. And plumbing, and wiring. There are now some functional lights; Then I did a whole lot of tweaking to the stuff I had made for the inside to tidy it up/make it fit better, then I fitted it. Beds in place; The front mezzanine bed folds away so there is way more floorspace. I also made it removable so it can be a shelf if one of the brats decides tenting is a better option, here is hoping; Then the main bed stowed, this give a shitload of extra space. All the folding beds have space so the mattress can stay there. I will need to set up restraint straps when the mattresses arrive.; I also modded the rear hatch today so it closes tighter/does not leak. I also resealed the upper windows with thicker foam tape, silicone and some drain holes so water can get out if it does make it in. We took it to Rabbit Island again for the day, the best thing was lack of tyre rub going around corners, it is truly a GTR racing bus now.

So had a little shopping spree while I was off work for two weeks. Got a LSD, thanks to Gnarlydude to bringing it up from Palmerston North to Hamilton! It's a 26 spline, but will look into getting some 24 spline side gears from Australia and getting them installed, then it'll be a bolt in upgrade. Saw the wheels on trademe and couldn't resist, not often you see these in 4x110! The wheels will eventually get widened to 7" and 8" i'm thinking, rear guards have a fair bit of space; hopefully being only 13" they wont look too funny or small on such a large car. Couldn't help to see what they look like

Alas, after waiting a little while for the Stacked/ML Racing container to come to NZ I have received my KE20 Hi-Deluxe bonnet Little dented but car will be getting fully stripped repainted so not overly concerned. That is what the panel beater will have to worry about. Will be rebuilding the small port over the coming wee while and get some mounts made up for it. Once that's all done it'll be panel and paint time. Now time to find a good condition valance...

Steering wheel & dice dice baby. Also just purchased this badboy to keep the theme. Motivate me here : //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49000-stylez-gx61-mkii-hardtop-couch-spec-disc/?p=1544979

Arrived in Christchurch early Sunday morning, maccas brekkie and cruised on home. Fuel up in Balclutha Got home safe and sound, goes really well. A lot of power for a single slammer. So wheels are currently these : Celica/supra/soarer ones. Decided against the works, due to being 13s and some advice given. But I picked up these, on the way to me now. They are Bridgestone Potenza tr3 stage 1s. Now if you flip the centre, this happens. Stupid dish & stupid offset. Now I've read a thousand arguments on this being fine, and the same again on it being a stupid/retarded/unsafe idea. So I don't know, maybe I'll give it a shot. Pressure on wheel bearings, tyres coming off, and others I've heard running them with no worries. I'll try it for shits and giggles and take some pics, but I think I'm going to end up running them normally for a while anyway before looking into some lips. Feel free to post your opinions I suppose. Discuss here : //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49000-stylez-gx61-mkii-hardtop-couch-spec-disc/?p=1544979

Went for a boys weekend up to Auckland last weekend and did a Car wreckers crawl. I came across an NZ new KE70 with an 'auto roof' sunroof at Zebra, $45 later she was in my car! Some of you may dis-like sunroofs, I somewhat have a fetish for them although I was concerned as to how it would effect the cars structural integrity. Since I had a spare shell I test fitted the sunroof to see how well it fit, turned out to be a bit of a fail cutting the hole to big. On the upside I used the piece i cut out as a template after trimming to suit. With the help of the old man & 4 tin snips I nervously cut the hole out in the good shell. Took another good hour carefully trimming/filing the hole till the sunroof frame slotted in perfectly. 4 hours later.. Really happy with the way it turned out & really enjoyed fitting it, quite a cool feeling knowing that this would have been one of the jobs to be done at Toyota 30 years ago, similar to what I do today. Structurally the roof Is actually more rigid due to the fact the bottom half clamps the sunroof down from the inside. I also like this design better as the glass is sealed from underneath rather than on the sides & whether the glass is in or out there is always a frame securing the roof. TRD Big end bearings, main bearings & 0.8mm Headgasket literally arrived overnight from Japan! +1 for the 'JDM' newspaper. My wheel collection so far 4 x Advan ADA's 14 x 6" +15 4 x Advan A3A's 14 x 6" +6 4 x Toyota Cressida factory wheels 15 x ? 2 X SSR MKIII 14 x 6.5" +9.5 Can never have enough wheels