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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/07/16 in all areas

  1. Dropped the moulds off in the morning and had the parts by lunch time! Thats service. The first one had a bit of shrinkage going on in the thicker parts so they dropped the temp a bit on this pore and it worked mint! This is only the right hand side. Left hand side is pretty much the same just doesnt have the cutout.
    11 points
  2. You will have to swap out your 20" Simmons for modgies when it arrives
    9 points
  3. Have done quite a bit of work on this in the past week, been doing a few hours each day after work. Made the engine and gearbox mounts, just need to weld them in, but that can wait until the front guards and cab are test fitted. Headers just clear the chassis rails on either side. Gusseted the front end brackets Holes No more holes Started on the rear end again. Trying to position the lower 4-link arms first and then will figure which way to mount the top ones later.
    7 points
  4. And we're pretty much up to current day. The car is now in primer thanks to Chaz Allen (pinstriper, custom painter and highly recommended) Will get it painted shortly and reassembled and back on the road for summer. Maybe with some fresh chrome via a contra deal. And that'll be phase 2 done. Phase 3 is 2017 and that's to bag it and mess with the wheel/tyre combo (again). Not worried about laying frame but without notching we've got 3" to play with out back and lots up front, still running stock Jag springs. Santa needs to bring me some of those Coker bias look radials in a 3 1/4 whitewall and you might have spotted the sets of ponty full wheel covers on the wall earlier. Will run the Caddy Sombrero style ones. After that I'll probably break something and start over. Talky bits here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53947-shifters-51-pontiac-chieftain-talky-stuff/
    7 points
  5. On closer inspection the decision was made that the pitted exhaust valve stem was not going to be an issue, (Holden 6’s are not known for loosing valve heads) and that for the time being we’d run with the existing original Yella Terra valves. A light skim……. Valves & seats faced and lapped……… The Y/T Double valve springs were within spec so it was reassemble with new frost plugs and valve seals. I even shouted the old girl a new set of stainless manifold studs and brass nuts, the obligatory yellow paint will come later. And one more job is ticked off the list…...
    6 points
  6. Luckily these wernt roller bearing crank. They are babbitt/white metal bearings. So I will just use shell bearings. The T35 is the one with the roller bearing crank. And yeah they last 10000miles and cost 10s of thousands to rebuild so ive heard. The T57 is the saloon car. Lots a variants and would be the most common bugatti engine/car. Ralph Laurens $40m Atlantic has this engine. Crank is 2-4-2 with 1, 6, 2, 5, 8, 3, 7, 4 firing order. The T59 is the GP car which essentially took the 57 engine and hotted it up. 3.3L fixedhead, twin cam, supercharged, drysump, straight 8. 230Hp (i find it strangely satisfying saying that sentence!) Big difference was the crank was 4-4 with a different firing order. These ran really rough, didnt rev very high, broke cranks and didnt make any more power. So im going for a T57 engine since there is a lot more info on it. More likely to get hold of genuine parts (which ive got now) and a higher chance of someone wanting to buy some parts.
    6 points
  7. Customer decided on the new engine. 3800 V6 with 5 speed manual. We had debated for quite a while what engine to fit bt the choice has been made. Engine placed in engine bay to sort out shifter location.
    5 points
  8. I'm pretty excited, I have done enough work on the house to keep the mrs happy for a little while so I got stuck into the work shop over the last few weeks. It is now water tight and I've moved my gear in. Time to get working on the kart again! The house was in a bit of a state buying "as is" but it's pretty awesome and 85% sorted now. It's insured! Hopefully some sweet kart updates to come.
    5 points
  9. Will upload some more progress shots in this enthralling series a bit later. Cheers. Here's the link to the other page where you can leave all necessary insults and mockery: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53947-shifters-51-pontiac-chieftain-talky-stuff/
    4 points
  10. Getting it back looking like a car again after a few years off the road. As you'd expect lots of stuff that takes time and money but isn't too exciting for highlights purposes like custom driveshaft, new exhaust, Rebel wire kit, 6 x seat belts (required due to power increase). Blah blah.
    4 points
  11. And here's a few randoms from the more successful second attempt. Changed plan to use a HQ diff instead of the Jag rear for $ reasons. Changed headers to Camaro for steering column clearance and engine colour just because.
    4 points
  12. Dropped the second half on with no drama. So its all bolted up now and ready to go to the foundry at the end of the week. Nailed it Thats like 1000hrs work right there!
    4 points
  13. Finally have all the grubby bits needed for the 2.8 stroker This includes (from bottom) a M52B28 2.8ltr crank from a 328i, 130mm conrods from a M20B20, clutch, flywheel, M20B25 pistons and 885 head as well as a 5 speed Getrag 245. Not pictured is the M20B25 block and other boring stuff the engine needs to go. I also have the crank oil seal that needs to be machined to suit this build. Will get to that in a future post. The 130mm conrods are a perfect fit for the 2.8ltr crank as they're 5mm shorter than the rods from the M20B25 and means they're a perfect length for the top of the piston to meet the top of the block, like so Piston on the left is connected with the 2.5ltr rod and is 5mm taller than the top of the block. The piston on the right uses the 130mm rod and will be perfect after it's all cleaned up. Now I can take this stuff to a good bugger and get it tested, machined, cleaned up and then work out what to do next. Stay tuned
    3 points
  14. Also in FA50 news... some dust got into the paint....
    3 points
  15. I've now finished the twin wastegate returns, which kind of looks like a mini downpipe of its own. It is two 40mm wastegates merging into a 2.25" pipe which then joins the main 3.5" downpipe at a good angle for flow: Downpipe is 3.5" made from pie cuts and wrapped in titanium heat wrap. Spent a lot of time making the wastegate return enter the main downpipe at a good spot while still being possible to fit it all. I originally wanted to fit a 2.25" ID flexi into the wastegate return but the one I had was too long. I know you can get short ones but I just made it with out, while having a straight section that I can cut out and replace with a short flexi if needed. But with the bends and v-band joints I am hoping there is enough room for expansion to not crack. There will be a 3.5" flexi right after the v-band on the end of the downpipe. Thats next up.
    3 points
  16. Anyway, hope this isn't getting too boring but the next problem was this: I don't mind patina and this car had the good version in places, but the variations between panels just annoyed me - so this happened. It is actually a real solid old beast so it was a case of tidying it up rather than back to bare metal. Unfortunately the rear guard didn't get that message...sigh. Was a rather poor mud job done previously, but hidden by chrome. Better to catch it sooner rather than later though. And fortunately the rest of the car was good.
    3 points
  17. Here it is on the trailer leaving one home. This was Monday early afternoon. Clear all morning, got the petrol station next to Hirepool to fill up and it started pissing down. Rain stopped once the car was on the trailer. Here we are at the other end off loading. See my wife's response to it will be finished for the beach hop. And it's finally home, 12 years after purchase.
    3 points
  18. More progress made! Now has BC Golds for a S13 all round, S14 front hubs and carriers. still running standard R30 bottom arms but have the longer S14 ones there as well. Front lip going back on this week after the new turbo back exhaust is made. Got a couple more small things to tidy up and then should be set for cert!
    3 points
  19. Cheers for the comments. Hours and hours of work there! A lot more to go! Yesterdays work. Two more cam gear covers, off to the foundry tomorrow.
    3 points
  20. I'm an idiot aren't I? Oh well, guess you learn new things every day.
    2 points
  21. dont they required shank nuts?
    2 points
  22. Right, so we got it legal and drove it round for a couple years. Kept losing the full wheel covers so changed them out to Chev dog dish and most recently baby moons with beauty rings. Stuck a visor on and started collecting more bits and trim.
    2 points
  23. Sometimes I forget that I can fix things and dont always have to buy new parts to fix a problem. After ringing suzuki and getting told the price of a new ignition switch and nearly spitting out my drink/it's still two weeks away Spent some time today at work printing off multiple copies of wiring diagrams and highlighting stuff, Then tonight dismantled the switch, Wrote notes of what has continuity to where in which position. unsoldered all the wires, Disposed of one and re assembled with connections in the right positions So now I have one correctly functioning ten wire switch. Total cost: 3x Coronas
    2 points
  24. I have never felt more Estranged from you! Don't November Rain on Tim's parade. I won't Cry Tonight, but I suppose if you want get away from the Paradise City for the night than that's your gig. Maybe GnR lovers could get on the Night Train and go to both? Enough puns, I'm out.
    2 points
  25. Been talking a bit with the guy that owns the Hamilton car museum. He bought the T57 from the Baillon collection in France. His engine is essentially the same as what im building. Hes given me access to any parts I want when hes got it in bits. To copy and 3D scan etc. So Ive got some pretty cool parts sitting around the living room now. The sump is a beast First ali bit cast! Right hand cam gear cover. Using a David 3D light scanner. Sort of useful to help with drawing in CAD More 3D printed moulds. Perfect for part this big with this detail. Would of taken me days to machine it. Still have to do a lot of sanding and paint to get a good finish. Playing with different filter runner designs. Think im getting a better idea of how to do it. 2016 on the left and 1938 on the right! 70hours from start to finish. But only bout 3 hours to make another one. So I plan to make atleast 3 of each part.
    2 points
  26. Went over to watch my car being dynoed today, after sorting a miss under boost and a couple other minor complacations it made 147.8hp atw at 5700rpm at 5lb boost and 196.6hp atw at 5850rpm at 10lb boost, super stoked with these results. Drove it for the first time for a road tune and you couldn't wipe the smile off my face! Even at 5lb boost! Ended up blowing an exhaust gasket which Is a easy fix and drove it home...all was going well till about 10k from home it developed a pretty bad miss, like it's running on 3? Thought it was going too good to be true lol. Will have a look at it tomorrow and see what I find I'll say it's either a injector or possibly the coil which is pretty makeshift atm
    2 points
  27. Long a waited revial So after a few years and three motors. This old chook runs again. Now sporting a 4m out of a ms85 with a very agressive cam grind Have tracked down the orginal circuit diagrams for the eletric overdrive trans mission so will be chipping away over the next few weeks. Cheers josh
    2 points
  28. Sprayed the grille with rattle can wheel paint. No idea how this'll go, but it's the right colour and it should be fairly hardy? We'll see how it goes. Scored bonus danger points by spraying near a load of bras and things someone had stuck on my rotary parts holder... Colour looks ok, hopefully just a few clips etc to bang it all back together... And took girls for a spin today. Found this pic from last time it was going... And today - a few changes... I didn't notice but my youngest pointed out she was wearing the same top the older one wore in the first pic. They're funny little buggers, they call it the 'noisy car' and as I started it they ran off and came back with their earmuffs for the ride...
    2 points
  29. Guns N Roses in Auckland is the best ever reason to leave the city and go somewhere like Leadfoot tbh.
    2 points
  30. nah man dont kick yourself too hard you're not born knowing everything and unless you've played with them before its not obvious
    1 point
  31. if they have rust when you take them to get zinced they come back shitty, I have used a wire wheel on a bench grinder with very good results. and I have done a LOT of nuts and bolts this way in bright zinc. I saw 3 motorcycles witch had all the bits done in gold zinc and it looked like shit,
    1 point
  32. Been meaning to take pics lol (no point updating without pics, right?). I have been slowly chipping away at it when the weather is good. I'll try get some pics up in the next couple of weeks
    1 point
  33. A few weeks ago I managed to score a red top 1gge out of a gx81 on Facebook. Ive been looking for quite a while for one, not posting anything but always searching just in case one came up. This one happened to come up at the same time I got a tax refund so there was no way I was going to miss it. It got delivered last night but it will be a while until I put it in I still need to do a whole lot of work before I can take it to vtnz so it'll be some time after that
    1 point
  34. Will pull gang signs Where you based man? Much to do on it? Ectect
    1 point
  35. I'm gonna just go full rolling shots if I can't get my bike sorted by then. Whack the mrs in the drivers seat and hang a lens out the window, so to speak.
    1 point
  36. MAF might charge you to clean it. They did for me and it was already clean. When I looked in the places where they said they cleaned it there was no change. I paid around 800 for Vin inspection including 1 year rego and a new wof. Easiest way is to get it on the road there and then de-register it there. Then you will get a receipt thing from the w.a transport dept and you will have no hassles here. Make sure you tell the shipping agent you are going to register it here and you need a border inspection or whatever it is called. That is where your chassis number gets entered into the system.
    1 point
  37. Bad arse bro! Very cool. Murray and Chris at VC are good guys and know there shit! Used Chris as a sounding board for a bit of stuff on the 64 dude knows his stuff!
    1 point
  38. Cert ranges from 500-1000 depending on the level of modifications and the certifier. Compliance is only about $500 If you need a repair cert for structural repairs (which you probably will by the sounds) theres another $400 odd as well.
    1 point
  39. hey man! good to see you got your car up on here. im sure i speak for all of us when i say keep updating your thread. im keen to see it in new paint.
    1 point
  40. I believe as a expat you can bring a personal vehicle back with you. Can't exactly remember the regs with the vehicle standards
    1 point
  41. Its cast iron so dont really need hardened seats. Your crossflow lasts 100,000+ miles without them. So thats like 100 years bugatti driving! Crank would break before the seats woreout anyway! You use a reverse seat cutter. Valve guides are really big diameter, so you feed the cutter in through the bore, push the guide in from the outside and then cut back with a spacer to the base of the guide. If that makes sense . Assemble the valves like that too and the valve springs hold the guide in. This gives you a better idea. A lot of plane engines are like this.
    1 point
  42. Shit man. You really are going balls deep. Looking fucken good tho. Loved you're description of grinder noises that we all know to well.
    1 point
  43. Took the first side of the base and glued up some rimu sections(3-4boards already glued together) together and to the base, clamped them all down and put some weight on them. I have realized how slow and painful this build is going to be, clamping time with a lack of space and clamps is killing me. While waiting for this to dry I went out and purchased some more mdf 18x600x1800, this is going to be used for the pieces you won't see eg the base of the unit and the horizontal pieces between the top and bottom half of the cabinet, this mdf is near perfect as the bottom half I'm going to use the 600 as the width between the two side so it's already cut perfectly square for me. I also went shopping around for a good screw while I didn't find exactly what I was after I found these reasonably sweet torx head screws.
    1 point
  44. Crankcase. Then once I knew the CAD was right it was time to make the negative CAD for cores and pattern making. Then take those parts and make patterns. Making just 1 of the 8 cylinders first. Just to get the casting right.
    1 point
  45. ...further to this, it's started spooling noticeably earlier and the Pitch of the turbo is a bit more piercing.
    1 point
  46. Laid a bit of colour down today. Bit shiny for my taste but hopefully will dull a bit. Keeping all the dents in it too.
    1 point
  47. Finally started rubbing this back. Going for an original looking clean up in the style of an old garage/workshop ute. White with some 70s Mazda decals etc. sounds shit but will look the business
    1 point
  48. As with any project that involves old cars you spend a disproportionate amount of your time dealing with rust! I’d try been meaning to give electrolysis a go for quite a while and thought now would be as good a time as any. All you need is some sort of tank, an old school battery charger, some washing soda and water…… Connect the -ve to the rusty car part and the +ve to a few bits of scrap steel and throw the lot into water with a little washing soda added, turn on the power and watch the fascinating yet friendly little bubbles forming ……… And more friendly bubbles…………… After a period of time you’ll discover that despite your initial burst of enthusiasm watching friendly bubbles forming becomes very, very, very boring and you’ll feel a strong urge to drink heavily! The following morning you end up with a fuzzy head and rust soup………. An interesting by-product of the exercise is that you will also end up with the rust gone from your car part. Before and after shot….. A bit of paint and the results speak for themselves… Can’t help but wonder if you could de-rust a whole car body in the neighbour’s swimming pool with an arc welder, (while he was away on holiday of course!).
    1 point
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