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How old are they? Could you bring them?

Kennel

I'd be inclined to find some stock cams and chuck em in. Maybe the cheapest and easiest way you'll get cruising.

I lifted the rear subframe off. Feels like one of those photos showing off the big fish I caught... With the car like this it made it really easy to measure between the front and rear lower ball joints to find the wheelbase on the drivers side was longer than the passenger side. I suspect it's because I built the alignment jig for the two front mounts on the yellow car, not this one. I had oversized the holes that the studs come through to allow some wiggle room, but I need to take a further 4mm off both sides. Once I can get it on a wheel alignment machine to make sure it's straight the studs will get welded in solid. I've started cleaning off the last of the underseal. I've got to also remove the remains of the original spring seat reinforcement.

Ive been making good progress on getting everything wired into the fusebox and controlled by ECU rather than hardwired. I bought 2x 500mm coby hotdog mufflers which are currently just sitting pushed over the ends of the pipes on each bank. Quieter than just open manifolds but should be better once welded. Have wired up ECT, wideband, fuel pressure sensor. The motor was still idling really high (like 4200rpm...) with fully closed throttles, even after setting everything to fully closed. I couldnt figure out why until I noticed that my 2x lower intake manifolds dont quite cover the edge of the circular holes which must be an idle air bypass. It was only by a smidge, so gooed the gap with some silicone and solved that problem. My current issue is that the cam angle triggers arent being picked up properly. This motor uses hall effect sensors on the cam angle sensors, and the voltage they output is too low for this ECU to register correctly. So pullup resistors are needed, which I have wired in. But stilk not working it seems. Some people have suggested wiring them to the 8v power supply rather than 5v supply, and this boosts the output voltage. But this stuffs up my loom a bit, as the 5v supply on that plug branches to a few other things as well as the triggers. So, another annoying problem, but not insurmountable. Just soaking up more time on little bits and pieces than expected. But thats always the way I guess!

AIDS, I’m out now. Kids cockblocking the fun again

DIdn't say they have to be current?

Sovereign citizen Sungai? Take a chance, you might get away with it. I towed a rusty trailer from Whangarei to Bluff in '94 without getting pulled up.

registered and will pay shortly. "all cars must have a wof and reg" feels a bit fascist

Keen.

So last night we decided next meet will be at Fishermans Table in Paekak. Going for that classy atmosphere. Will be on Thursday 16th May. Let me know if here if you'd like to attend so I can make a booking.

soon as you go cams, most cases its to much for the factory ecu to deal with. unless its an ecu that can be tuned. really need an aftermarket ecu and a good tune to get it all running nice.

Hello Alfalfa, what was the final speed you achieved with the main jet #210?

I might have a driveway spot in whangarei if you get desperate

Hi all, I've got a my car stored at a family friend's place in Whangarei while I'm overseas. Unfortunately (for me) her situation has changed and she's had to sell the house. I need to move my car out by the 12/5 at the latest. Has anyone got a lead or suggestion on affordable, covered storage options between Auckland and Whangarei? It doesn't need to be workshop space or anything, but it would be great if a mate could check on it every few months. It wouldn't need to be moved (doesn't really run, anyway). It's insured, incase that matters. Cheers, Sam

Stopped for a burger on the way home and came across a Nissan type meet. If I’d brought my other car tonight we would have pretty much been a Toyota* meet.

Stand down osgc couriers. It’s small enough to put in an envelope for NZ Post haha

Sure, who needs a heater.

Made it home. Heater tap was the culprit. When I turned it to cold it stopped leaking. Fixed?

Autopilot stuff. Gave it a lot of thought and decided that the main use I have for an autopilot is keeping us vaguely on course in light winds while I go make a cup of tea or steer the boat with the engine on which is boring if you have to do it for more than 5 minutes. The fancy expensive autopilots can be trusted to probably not kill you if you go down below to get some sleep while sailing through the night across the middle of the Atlantic. They react to wind gusts better and manage rolling nasty sea states under sail without getting confused as easily. Even then, some of the long distance sailors just carry 2 or 3 of the crappy cheap ones and throw them over the side when they stop working. Since I don't plan on doing long passages - and in challenging conditions I'd rather be steering myself or have another meat bag driving....I bought a cheap crappy autopilot second hand. The big brother to the one on Nice Try - the Raymarine ST2000+ Principle of operation is simple. The built in compass keeps track of your heading. When activated, it tries to maintain that heading by extending or retracting the ram to move the tiller and turn the boat. The bigger the boat, the more force you might need to use so the gruntier the autopilot needs to be. The ST2000 has a brass recirculating ball drive for the ram rather than a plastic nut on an acme screw as found on the ST1000. It also seems to have some bigger fets driving a slightly bigger motor? Not quite an apples to apples comparison since the ST1000 I have is from 1999 and the ST2000 is from 2012. Still rips my undies how simple these things are inside. Autohelm designs it then Raytheon buys them out and milks the design for a few decades. Minimal changes in nearly 30 years of production. No limit switches or position feedback. No conformal coatings on the board, glass reinforcement in the plastic or silastic schmoo on the connectors. AvE would be disgusted. Will install it maybe next week and see how it goes.

More chamce of the ferry fucking out tbh. Do you have room for a Lawnmower catcher from VG @MaxPower?

Flights booked home, sigma may or may not make the journey. Place bets now

Golebys over here is doing a few things with these platforms now maybe have a look https://golebysparts.au/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5v2wBhBrEiwAXDDoJa8CAaxiaw9yXt82jZsUpJY1uVzC0sWrZj-Th8_q52rQkl29DPoa8hoCm_MQAvD_BwE

Hey guys i have a 1992 jzx81 project with a 1jz-ge novvti. I'm after some advice for tuning, the previous owner had got a stage 3 camgrind from Auckland cams and didn't do anything about the tuning. anyone have any idea what would need done to make it run good I.e. install a piggyback, adjustable cam gears Ect I don't wanna sped too much and I don't wanna go the turbo rout just yet would like the car running good so I can cruse around and ideas would be great cheers, Terry

I actually have a massive boner for early Jimny 2-strokes. An old guy that comes into work has one, I'm trying to get put into his will so I can get my mits on it. Anyways, I have done a bit more on this thing. Don't laugh at my lack of wood working skills, I fucking hate working with wood. So I made the front guards, bit of a weird shape to try and make out of wood, mostly because of my being a tard and all. A bit of fiberglass & resin, a hint of bog, and they should come out pretty good. Then I got started on the bonnet, which is probably the most complicated shape on the thing. Added some wooden ribs, and a couple of dowels as reference marks, then put real thin MDF under them to keep the foam in, then filled the gaps up with foam, then carved the foam with a hacksaw blade and Stanley knife, then chucked a couple of layers of fiberglass over it, to give me a firm base to work with. It actually came out really close to correct, so will need very minimal amounts of filler. Next was lights. My B-I-L used OG dolphin torch reflectors/lens' on his Jeep, that he cut down to the correct size. New dolphin torches have four round LED bulbs in them, so don't look anything like a head light. The only torch I could find that was roughly the correct size, and also sort of looked like a real headlight was some budget items from Bunnings. I pulled them to bits, linished & sanded the OD of the lens down as small as I could, but so that the reflector still fit into it. I then cut the holes in the body to suit these. The front grill will hold the lights in, and also down size them to roughly the right scale size. I also found a Toyota badge that used to be on my 86 (before I got a legit one) that's pretty damn close to the correct size for this, but not sure if I will use it or not. The back lights were way easier, I found some LED lights on Ali that were the right shape and scale for this thing. They are meant to be in corners of the bumper IRL, which seems silly, as they would get smashed real easy. I added in a bit of wood roughly the same shape as the real bumper, and set them into this, so they are a bit more protected. There will be a steel bumper under them mounted to the tow bar in the future, so it should be quite a challenge for the kids to smash them. That's pretty much where I'm up to. Regards, VG. xoxox