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  1. Today
  2. Bled the brakes again tonight using the Kyteler Hemi method and followed the books advice and did slow pedal strokes. Pedal seems better. I will drive it over the Rimutakas tomorrow to put it in the new shed. Taking a fire extinguisher..... not positive the fuel leak is completely fixed. Looking forward to having it on the flat and dry.
  3. Done a little bit more. Tried the x-flow underneath but there wasn't really enough room. Move it back to here and looks pretty good. Can be dropped out from here as well. Resonators go somewhere around here. Ran out of stuff to do on the exhaust since I don't have the pipe or flanges yet, so went and filled in some more holes in the floor.
  4. I'll put the jug on. I'm in Chch, and daily mine to work. Typically 100 miles a week.
  5. Gotta keep it on 13's.. super slamage.. +0 traction
  6. Things wernt begin captive in the rear since I swapped out the diff so nabbed the shocks to match top set had been in it since I bought it & had never been an issue til now shorter (proper) shock on the bottom i out of an 80's Chrysler Avenger but noticeably an improvement straight away also nah could not be arsed tidying them up, she'll be right : or I'll buy actual new shocks next time
  7. Wow that is amazing number in NZ I don;t think there are anything like that here in Australia. I am coming to NZ in September and would love to look up any Dai-hards of the 360cc variety! I wil be in Sth Island and as far north as Christchurch only.
  8. Got my home boi home and onto putting it back together. Kayne has done an awesome job, so many details have been put into the car its becoming a pleasure to put back together. My personal favorite is the color between dash pad and windscreen being a paint match to what was factory tan instead of the colour of the car.
  9. One we spotted in Miami few yeas back. Full hydro set up
  10. Good buying. Being a two door post car the body should deform less than a hardtop when you're applying full jandal out of the hole. Defo going to be one to watch!
  11. Yesterday
  12. Like you I usually use the Kyteler/Hemi method which works 95% of the time - when something being a bit of a cunt (usually the jag where the rear pipes has lots of ups and down or if a systems been completely drained) and still has a small amount of air somewhere in the system bleed as per above and then go around each corner again this time get someone to pump the brake pedal a few times and then hold it down while you crack open your bleed nipple and then tighten it before they release then pedal you should only need to do this once or twice at each corner. This pressurizes the brake fluid and makes the air into larger bubbles rather than lots of tiny ones which sometimes can't be seen you should get a few bubbles at the affected corners (no way of knowing which ones they are so do them all).
  13. This car is still impossible to take photos of that accurately show the colour but this vid is probably the best so far... Out in the sun...
  14. I thought i would have this going by Christmas but did absolutely nothing over the holiday period. Have got back into the swing of things now with the engine and gearbox back in place Ive removed the severely damaged dash in favour of one with only one crack in it, still keen to have that repaired at some point however ill leave it for now I have undertaken most of the wiring, this has taken me a bit longer than expected as ive tried to use the 1geu engine loom as a kind of adapter plug to the 2jzge engine loom plugs so have been slowly identifying each wire, a great tip i discovered regarding a ma61 ecu which turned out to be same on my 1geu ecu is if you pop the cover off the board is actually marked with the ecu pin out with labels that are relevant to the wilbo666 jza80 2jzge wiring diagrams, this drastically sped the process up as i was able to eliminate everything i didnt need from the plugs. You will see I've taken apart way more of the dash than i would need to, this was due to literally every piece of plastic being cracked from mistreatment, most of it i have undamaged replacements for but i feel there will be a few bits ill need to pickup or try repair in the mean time. I also noticed all of the plastic pipes for the heater have been removed and outlets taped up, not too sure what this is about but i have a spare heater and ac unit in stock so ill look at checking these out and restoring that! I thought i had struck gold with some monsoon sheilds listed on yahoo auctions japan as gx61 that were chaser specific with a small decal printed on them and came with all the clips and even the bonnet emblem which i was missing and the avante and chaser boot badges However it appears they were for a gx71 hardtop Luckily i was able to pass them on to someone locally who could use them and still use the emblem for the bonnet and the boot badges so not a complete loss Next mission has been the front bumper support. The face lift iron was rusted very badly but upon inspection the pre-face lift has the same core with a few additions of indicator brackets and a top piece spot welded on. These bits aren't too badly rusted on the toasted FL support so I've drilled the spot welds and removed them to weld on my PFL support which actually seems to be pretty good condition. Whilst all of this is going on ill fix the number plate holder tabs that always brake off on these too Ill get a friend to weld this up today and then strip it all back and treat rust before painting in a flat black Ive just got the mx83 alloy radiator to mount and plumb in the engine bay, connect the electric fans, finish wiring behind glove box, reinstate dash, finish aligning headlights and fit the facelift front bumper and then off to toyota festival at hampton downs on april the 1st hopefully!
  15. Right rear is furtherest away from the master in this case. The line to the back goes down the left of the car to a 3 way union, then over to the right wheel. I have a one man bleed kit, I think there is a one way valve in it. The bottle is laughably small, a few pumps will overflow it, so I use an old brake fluid bottle. But I will try the open nipple, pedal down, close nipple, pedal up, repeat method. I would normally use the method kyteler and hemi use.
  16. Got some new parts yesterday. I picked up a set of mint RA65 Celica seats for $50, ordered up the flat front headlight conversion from ebay, received my first box of parts for the car which included new drums for the rear and my carb rebuild kit. Still waiting on my drum hardware kit and replacement carpet. The collection of seats that will be going in the car at some point. The Tommy Kaira Recaro needs to have it's nylon bushings replaced, there's a bit too much movement back and forth. The Celica seats are in great shape, just needed a good vacuuming. The grey just doesn't cut it. I'm going to be doing a full black interior conversion on the car, so the grey had to go. Much better! Still needs a few more coats of dye before it's done. Biggest piece of the puzzle to get this thing on the road. Going to be rebuilding the carb sometime mid week and hopefully have it good to go for next weekend.
  17. ^^ as long as you get that piece of paperwork signed off by a licence technician, you can do what ever you want. There is no annual safety inspection out here.
  18. it is indeed, 'Experienced' is putting it nicely, poor thing was hit in the middle of the night not long after I got it road legal which really killed the motivation to tidy it up, your paint work is quite motivational
  19. Also, look how tiny the carb is
  20. Yeah what nominal said. Open nipple, get assistant to push pedal down and hold it down, do up nipple and then assistant lets pedal up. Repeat. If the system is completely new then bench bleed the master first. If its in the car then crack open both outlets at the master, push pedal down, hold, tighten outlets, release pedal. Repeat until its just fluid. Usually only a few strokes. Otherwise it can be an arse trying to get the master to push anything. When bleeding the wheel cylinders/calipers watch the clear tube you've put on on the nipple. It takes a second or two for the master cylinder to 'refill' after a push. If you're hasty and crack open the nipple straight after the assistant has let the pedal up you'll see the fluid getting drawn back a little. So just wait a couple of seconds before opening the nipple. Yeah as others said- start at the furtherest away wheel and work in. (having bled the master first if needed)
  21. Brought this home today, it's the reason for selling the hardtop. It's a 68 Plymouth Valiant, has a 'leaning tower of power' 225, auto, has power steer, 13" wheels hah, drums all round. Most of the paint is original, it has a couple of bits where it's been repaired that need touching up. I'll probably get it repainted in the same colour at some point. It belonged to a mate of mine that died in 2015. It's a bit special to me because of that, I went with him to have a look at it, had one of the sketchiest rides I've ever experienced when we went for a drive after he got out of hospital and was still on something. He always wanted to put a V8 etc in it but he ran out of time. His family kept it since but decided to sell it, and his mum rang me to give me first option on buying it. They are keen to see it get an 8 so it will get the turbo 318, 727 and 9" I was going to put in the hardtop. I'll drive it for a while till I've got everything ready then bolt it all in. Obviously this one will need a brake upgrade as well and I'll put some 15" wheels of some sort on it
  22. Holy lol! I forgot that was there!
  23. This. I did the brakes on a club sport today with some 5mm hose from Bunnings and a Powerade bottle with a hole drilled in the lid, hose down to the bottom of the bottle and a bit of fluid and your set. It'll pull back a little bit for the first couple pumps but once up to the bottle it's sweet, and you use clear hose your can tell when all the bubbles are gone/ fluid is clean.
  24. That's a pretty intense earthquake that flips the house while you're doing the brakes.
  25. If you do it anything like me, you might as well just let it run out on the floor as that's where most of it will end up when the house flips out of the container or I knock it over.
  26. Also also, you don't need a valve, a bottle or container with the hose reaching to the base of the bottle with a level of fluid higher than the end of the hose and you'll be fine.
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