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  2. I don't remember. I removed it because it had both heater hoses Going in and out. So I got no flow through the heater. Being cold su ks worse than a flat spot.
  3. Today
  4. Did it have any positive effect? I have been told that a lot of inline 6's with a carburetor actually benefit from having a functional heat riser.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Two different tyre codes?
  7. It does, barely feel a bump.
  8. Goddam i bet that rides lush on those balloons
  9. mayte cheaper if you fry them at home in a bit of dex 3, dont need the paper then
  10. Turns out I was lying about it being a treefiddy. I had a look at the build plate and figured out all the codes. It looks like its a povo pack with a few extras. 305? TBI explains why it started and drove so nicely. A01- WINDOW, TINTED, ALL SHADED, W/S A12- WINDOW, RR, STA BACK DR A51- SEAT, FRT BKT PASS, DRIVER A57- SEAT PASSENGER AUXILIARY, ONE, FLDG B3W -TIRE ALL P205/50R 15/N BL RIPE ST TL KW4 C5S-GVW RATING, 6600 LBS C60- HVAC SYSTEM, AIR CONDITIONER FRT MAN CONTROLS D1V- GEAR, SPEEDO DRIVEN D20-: SUNSHADE, WINDSHIELD, PASS SIDE D45- MIRROR O/S, SST E24-WWR SIDE, CARGO, HINGED E5Z-SPEEDOMETER ADAPTER (DELETE) E60-?? E9Z-SPEEDOMETER KEY (DELETE) F59- STABILIZER SHAFT FR, GU6- AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO G50- SPRING REAR, HEAVY DUTY, VAR 1 JB5- BRAKE, POWER, DISC/DRUM, 6400 LBS K19- REACTOR SYSTEM, AIR INJECTION K60- GENERATOR, 100 AMP LOD- ?? L03-5.0 LITER V-8 TBI ENGINE MX81-?? M40- Turbo Hydra-matic Transmission NA5-EMISSION SYSTEM, FEDERAL, TIER O NL7-FUEL TANK,I25L, 33 GAL N33-STEERING COLUMN, TILT TYPE N40 - STEERING, POWER, NON-VARIABLE RATIO SLM - ?? V37 - BUUPER, FRT & RR, CHROME V73 - ANTENNA, FIXED XET - TIRE FRONT, P245/75R16-109S BW R/PE ST TL AT YD3 - FRONT AXLE, BASE EQUIPMENT FOR SCHEDULING, GVW PLATE YD5- ?? ZET- ?? ZW9-B0DY EQUIPMENT, BASE BODY OR CHASSIS ZY1 - COLOR COMBINATION, SOLID Z53 CLUSTER, INST, OIL, COOL, TEMP, VOLTS 12U-?? 62I- INTERIOR TRIM, LT SADDLE (I) 62V-TRIM COMBINATION, VINYL, LT SADDLE (V)
  11. And wrapping up ya fish and chips m9
  12. fair point, but in nz we aren't likely to have big arse fires I guess we are likely to have a flood etc but if the weather is that shit you shouldn't be camping anyway arguably. and its all digital now and wont get reception I barely watch tv at home tbh, once a week maybe when we got to the mrs family for dinner so its not something I feel the need to take camping. Bloody newspapers are only good for starting fires.
  13. I actually tried this. I still have the block somewhere. Iirc the hotbox flange on the bottom of the intake had to be milled flat before it would seal.
  14. Good excuse for a cb radio
  15. Each to their own. But no. Not always you can drive away. Years ago on a trip we got caught up in huge bushfires. Exits sealed etc. Had no idea where to go what to do etc. Stuck at camp site we managed to get the local news on the tv. It showed aerial shots of everything and talked about where it was and where the emergency evac points were. From that we made our way out of trouble. So the tv actually saved our ass.
  16. It’s taken a bit of working to get the motivation to write this post. Work on the bike has kinda slowed to a crawl, but I stripped the carbs and have started putting them together again. So I removed the carbs and took the float bowls off them in the last post, to discover that carb one had a lot of gunk in it, and the other three were a little crusty from sitting. The next day I started to strip down carb one, to see how bad it was. I took the floats and jet housings off first These are the jets from carb two. You can see the difference in size between the two jets. The pilot jet lives down the deep recess between the two other jets. Speaking of pilot jets, the pilot jet for carb one was completely blocked solid, and took a lot of soaking in carb cleaner and poking with a thick strand of wire to clear it. The other two jets on carb one also had debris in their holes, but the pilot was the worst. Remember, this is what the jets looked like. It’s no surprise. I then started separating the carbs, as they are all linked together The seals on the main fuel feed were in very bad shape with multiple cracks in the rubber. Thankfully I ordered replacements from Litetek. I pulled the cap off carb one, removed the spring and needle And removed the slide. Under the diaphragm was this black stuff. Its been on all the carbs of the carbs so far. It’s almost like powered plastic shavings? Theres no obvious wear on the slides. I cleaned all the black stuff out and removed the choke needle Organisation is key This first carb was a bit of an experiment on following the instructions to a tee. I’ll soon learn not to do that. Following the instructions I removed the throttle plate and shaft This was to replace the shaft seal, which wasnt worn or hard anyway Next up I removed the pilot mixture screw. This was covered in some sort of oily mixture. Just FYI too, all my carbs had this screw set at 2 full turns from fully in. I purchased a small 2.5L ultrasonic cleaner, so gave it a shot with the carb body since it was stripped. It started out like this I filled it with about 50:50 water:simple green, got the mix to 65c, and dropped the body in. I soaked it for about an hour and it came out like this, with no scrubbing. It was pretty effective, although im sure if I just used some brake clean I would have got the same results in minutes; and I did, on the other carbs (I scrubbed with a tooth-brush and brake clean whilst I waited on the cleaner to finish). At least I know the ultrasonic cleans out all the tiny little holes and channels in the carb. My makeshift parts washer You can see I didn’t remove the slide housing. I tried to pull it out earlier and it wouldn’t budge, so I left it. Now, that’s where I left the carbs that day. The next day I finally had my syphon arrive (thanks to a run-around by the useless couriers), so I could drain the Evapo-Rust from the tank. It had done a pretty decent job of stripping the surface rust. The inside is mostly clean, but unfortunately it did spring a small leak at the back of the tank where there is a seam. This was the nail in the coffin, I had to do it properly. I used the syphon to drain the tank back into the bottles. The liquid came out pretty dark, but I should be able to get a little more use from the solution. I also had some small bits just chilling in the bottom of the tub the tank was sitting on (to catch leaking liquid, which it did well), sitting in the fluid that had leaked out. All of these bits were really rusty, including the idle adjustment screw (which I thought was a write off). The idle screw came up really well Its pitted, but no longer rusty. Compared to how it was, it’s a miracle. All the screws and hose clamps that I left in the solution came out well too. It’s quite powerful stuff. Once its taken out of the solution I rinse in water and then coat in WD40 to stop it rusting again. Since the tank was now leaky, I couldn’t just stop here and put it back on the bike. Looking around, I decided to purchase a tank refurb kit which comes with a cleaner, rust remover and a tank sealer. The sealer should stop it rusting again, and will block the tiny leak. I was trying to avoid having to seal the tank as it is likely messy to do, but this should mean it lasts a lot longer. It should arrive in a couple of days. I was feeling a bit unmotivated so left the bike for a bit. A couple of days ago I decided to get back into the carbs and see if I could get one back together again. I tried a bit harder and got the slide housing out of carb one This is where I should have gone off script and just left it alone, but I didn’t. I had the seals, so decided to do them. I removed the seal at the top and the square seal The top seal was quite flat, but in decent condition really (not hard and no cracks). I fit the new seals and slotted the housing back into the carb body And then it all turned to custard. The instructions say to push the housing down and to nip up the screw, but don’t rely on using just the screw to pull it together…. clearly I didn’t push hard enough. The first screw went ping, and snapped into two pieces. Nuts. Because im a muppet though I forgot to use the washer under the screw, so I thought “hmm, maybe thats why it snapped”. So I grabbed the screw from carb two… and snapped that too. Good thing I purchased a set of Easy Outs a while back. They are little hollow brass screws, so very little structural integrity. I rage quit and went back into the house and left it there. I ordered three new screws out of the states for a few bucks each, so they should be here in a week or so. Sigh. Yesterday I couldn’t be bothered with the carbs but wanted to do something to feel useful, so I bled the brakes. Both brakes had really bad feel. The front lever was really soft and spongy, and the rear wasnt much better. I had figured I was probably up for a rebuild of the cylinders and calipers anyway, so what harm is there in bleeding it and seeing what happens? It’s funny how much easier bike brakes are to bleed than a car. I can lean on the lever whilst closing the valve to do the front, and pump the rear with my foot whilst working the valve. No need for a second person. The res was full of slime when I got it, but I flushed that all through And both calipers played nice and bled well. Minimal air, but foul fluid Now both brakes actually have solid feel and feel pretty good. I don’t know if the calipers are still sticking as the bike can’t move, but at least I might be able to put off spending too much on the brakes immediately. All the hoses look visually good with no cracking. Whoever the bloody sadist is that designed where the rear brake fluid res is located should be slapped hard. Its located in such a way that to get the cap off you have to remove a side panel, unbolt the res and have it hanging in the air, otherwise the cap doesnt clear the frame, and there is no way you could pour fluid in it. Moving along; This morning I was considering just selling the damn bike for parts as it was pissing me off and I was getting pretty demotivated with it all. So much work to do, and nothing going right, but at the end of the day that’s not how I work. So having a short day at work today, I shot home and went straight into the garage. I swapped the O-ring on the slide housing back the old one, and using the screw from carb THREE, I managed to get it nipped up nicely without snapping it. All the jets also went back in after a thorough cleaning. The float needle seat went in next, with its new O-ring And then the needle, float and bowl Finally it was the slide, needle, springs and cap, to top it off That’s carb one, done and ready to go. I then stripped, cleaned and assembled carb two Now I have a pair of carbs. Just need the screws to arrive and I can do the other two and then bench sync them. I’m hoping to have the carbs ready to go when the tank is ready, so that I can assemble and fire it up on my stand and see what the gearbox is like. After that, it’s a full tear down to do the frame. Oh yeah, I think I forgot to mention that I got a rear stand. No room to use it where the bike is at the moment, but once the car is living outside and I’m stripping the bike it will have all the room for activities.
  17. Also +1 on te no tv while camping. Kinda defeats the point... But so does a van lol. you can always drive off/away so its not the end of the world
  18. Woo, more stuff. Good and bad.... So the good. Had the windows tinted. Has made it much cleaner looking. Excuse bad photos. Fitted up front lip. (Fitment isn't 100% due to slightly warped guard.) Looks so much coooolleerrr. Swapped factory engine mounts back in. No more vibrations through the car anymore. Note to self, for street driven car, do not put polyurethane engine mounts in. And the bad Took it for a drive to Tauranga last weekend. All good, or so I thought. Lifted it up on the hoist at work to do a quick check over on everything and oh good lord, fluid everywhere. Rear gearbox seal and front pinion seal on diff are leaking terribly. And I've blown the left rear shock. So, back home and on stands again. Seeing as I had to pull the diff out, I decided to replace the crown wheel and pinion so I can get my rev and speedo to more friendly. So managed to track down a 3.5 Hilux diff, bought that. I've got a drivetrain specialist swapping the crown wheel and pinion to my current LSD centre, tightening the LSD a bit more and giving it a freshen up with new bearings and seal/s. Should be perfect afterwards. While it's in pieces, I got the axles checked to make sure there was no runout as one of the brake rotors was grinding on the caliper. No issues there so I think my caliper is a few mm to close to the hub, so I'm getting new brackets cut out as well to improve that. So it's in pieces, random photo for the sake of another photo. I've still got to take a shock out to send to Autolign so they can match it with some damper adjustable Bilstein ones. Also had to go through and pull my drivers door apart to get the window out as one of the plastic guides for it had fallen off. Thankfully I had a complete parts door I was able to pull apart first to see how difficult it was. (Turns out it's easy as shit.) Factory plastic guide had a crack through it so it had come loose. Put the one from the parts door in, and it's perfect. And because we were working on it late one night, group photo at my work! Once the diff is back in, I'll take it somewhere nice to get a couple of decent photos of it. I haven't managed to take any proper ones since it's been road legal.
  19. Thread is 10 years old. She hasn't posted for 8 years or been online for at least 3. So chance of an answer is minimal sorry.
  20. WOF time and one problem I hadn't fixed is the gauge light didn't work. Upon spending an hour removing the gauge cluster I was reminded some pratt had glued the gauge lights in with RTV. So the fix was to reinstate the original poverty spec gauge cluster and repair it with parts from the diesel one. I realized that of the wires that were cooked only 2 needed connecting up. A few hours work and I had my MPH gauge cluster with functional illumination installed in the car. Leaving mums place the first bump I went over the speedo light went out... bugger. The second bump set off lights and sirens in the car. turns out the oil pressure sender wire came off and grounded on the engine making the car think there was no oil pressure. The car got a wof and is now ready for another 6 months of driving and breaking down.
  21. Awesome job! I really need to learn to weld
  22. hey man choice work good to see how pros do this work. was in an old guys shed the other day and he had a pretty mint early 50's studebaker 4 door straight 8 for $4500 de-reg, looked real similar to your beast, they ant made by the same umbrella are they? shame i have too much shit.
  23. When I bought my 110 it had an isuzu c230 engine fitted, cleared everything, could be an option if you are wanting another diesel. Also have seen 200tdi engines fitted, they pretty much bolt up, people run them without the turbo as well
  24. Hey thanks man. Thats wicked what you said. Im also a fan of the pickups. Like the grill how it curves in the center behind the fog lights. Have seen a few that had been used back in the day at race tracks with modified decks. The center section of the tray opened up like two big door and folded flat to reveal a collapsed beam that you rise up, add the supports and BAM you had a tow truck. Cant find the pics of them at the moment but here is a similar modified 1950 Buick wrecker. link with more info for those wanting to see more here. "Nailhead" came about due to the fact the engines valves kinda look like nails. they are that small. So the old donks have troubles breathing. Factory 2x4 setups used two 600s. These days with pros and the guys who are in the know all recommend two 650s. More so when used with the top intakes like i have coupled in with porting etc. I have had alot of guys go WTF over carbed and point out there worked 350 chev or 351 ford uses half or less of my total CFM. Different strokes for different folks. Yeah im pretty stoked with how the Cnotch turned out. Flockie did an awesome job on it. For breaks im using a Hydroboost setup with 1.125 in master cylinder and proportioning valve. Was wanting to keep the engine bay clean as possible and vacuum units can get rather large. Then the more I read about Hydroboost the more I wanted one. The old 401s dont make much vacuum and if i do the cam will be even less. With the hydro boost running off the PSC pro touring PS pump & external reservoir it will be better for me. The thing will have three full powered breaks worth of compression with engine off and decline from there to normal unpowered breaks. Better yet they sent me TWO full units when i only ordered one. Hydroboost info here. Tell the truth alot of the reason i went with Wilwood was its just easy and simple. the Rods by Reid front end was made for em. John gave me the part numbers needed. Hubs included. No messing about and I was able to get them from summit on special then with my other junk via Kiwi Shipping to NZ considerably cheaper than buying in NZ. Again thanks for the words of encouragement man. Alex
  25. Then you won't mind being outside in the rain
  26. That's why you bring the Mrs
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