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  2. If it's all standard steering, and just roll center spacers, bump steer check is not required
  3. Today
  4. My Datsun has a haltech and running std tacho with inductive loop, i just ran the power wire for the coil, coil no1 in your case, through the inductive loop and it works mint.
  5. So it turns out when... your daily/operational fun car breaks down and you decide to take on a huge DIY job to fix it that you know eff all about you specifically lay out your mortgage repayment strategy in front of you and truly understand the ramifications of paying off even tiny amounts of principle early in the loan and decide to restructure to get every little spare cent going into it that you can scrounge up you pick up a second job the remaining work on your project car kind of hinges on either a stupid amount of unappealing and tricky skilled labour, or collar-tuggingly large amounts of money to pay for said tricky skilled labour ...things on your project car tend to slow down. But I figured I should post something because otherwise I'll totally forget everything that I've done and I don't want this project to fade away. Before I put all the fuel tank stuff back, I was messing with panels. One of the pre-reqs for the panel work is obviously that it needs to be all stripped back, and I decided (with panelboi's blessing) to do it myself rather than mess around with the local acid dipper or with transport to a more reputable one hours away. The idea is to just pick some reasonable panels, strip them, fit them, and then I've got a clean no-surprises job I can show around and get some better quotes and info on. I test-fit the rear bumper from the original black car and it didn't quite sit right - the panel gap was inconsistent no matter how I fudged the fastenings - no pix unfortunately, so I went with the red's bumper. It fits a whole lot better! Next up is all the front panellage. The two bonnets have their issues so it's really a toss-up, but I opted for the red one as it seemed to be a bit more contained in its damage. Both nose panels are totally fucked so... not sure what I'm doing there just yet. But fitting the nose panel reveals some fun. Uh-oh. Fitting the bonnet and popups makes the problem a bit more obvious. The black ones are just as bad - no pix soz - so it's not just a "different donor car" thing. The frame repairs were done with the fenders and bonnet available, though not the other panels. I need to get in contact with the panelbois to sort out a warranty claim, but the last couple times I tried they didn't pick up or reply. Hopefully this doesn't become a struggle :\ Anyway, forging on. Key and clean. Apply stripper and keep wet with plastic. Create murder scene. Scrape. I probably should have applied more stripper here but newb. The fenders are all pretty crap. The one I've already lightly beaten into shape and stripped and durepox'd is the one that had a minor collision, so you'd think it'd be the worst, but it's actually probably the best one. There's no rust and it's otherwise totally straight. All other fenders... well... So I decided to just keep the fender I've already epoxied, because it's probably easier to bang it into shape than any of the others. The red driver's side fender seemed marginally better than the black one so I went forward with stripping that. I busted out the paint stripping wheel for the grinder to finish it up. I'm not really sure this was a good move - it's nice and shiny, but possibly a bit tricky to spot the imperfections in the panel now? Then the nose panel and popups.. Everything back on. You can see here what I mean about the swirlies making it hard to gauge if things are okay. I'd already taken a sanding block to the driver's side fender in this pic to try and make the flat bits even. As you might be able to tell, there's a fair bit of damage to it... there was quite a bit of bog at the front and the rear of the fender. I think it worked, so I did the rest as well. As you can see, there's a few low spots and dents, but I think they'll hammer flatter without any major headaches, and even if they weren't, they could probably just be straight filler'd without failing. The chunky spot is the part I already knew about - the front corner which had a giant slab of filler applied and has subsequently received a lot of pitting. There's also a spot on the front edge of the bonnet that has numerous rust holes, hidden under a small but deep patch of bog. Honestly, it seems saveable - though I'm also far from an expert here! The pop-ups are fine, no dents. As expected, the nose panel is worse than the surface of the moon. It's probably not worth trying to save and I should just find another one. It's also super easy to dent these to begin with; they're the most natural place to push the car from, and there's almost no structure to them. If I do get a new one I'll try mod some gussets into the back of it. Side quest to put the very first thing I restored on this car back onto it: the fuel pump access panel, which a few years ago was extremely rusty. The CRC black zinc has held up strong . Spot the fasteners and grommets stolen from the red car... Speaking of the red car. It's door time. On both cars, passenger sides have a couple of dings but nothing crazy. Also on both cars, the driver's side is absolute dent and bog city. I have pix but they suck so just hold on till the strippy bit to see what I mean. All the doors also fucking suck at the bottom. So I just went with the black doors since they're both right there, already half-stripped, and the red car is currently sealed from the elements. There's a few holes at the top as well. Annoying, but the rust seems fixable. I completely stripped the doors - which was a massive PITA when it came to the door latch, only removable via black magic / the completely wrong method. The mirror blanking was just gooped in place to fix a broken bracket. Also there was a little protective metal edging strip along the open edge of... just one of the doors? The red doesn't have these. Japanese mod + replaced door? Anyway, it's strippytime. This time I put it on thicker, and did several passes. It made the job a bit easier. The starion makes for a decent workbench... <.< I haven't finished these yet, there's still some bog to remove and then get it all nice and flat. And that's where I'm at. If the panelbois are kind with their warrantying, and the lack of surprises makes the price right, then I might be able to eek something out in this space before we pay off the mortgage :P. If not, I'm buying a welder and the scope of the project shrinks from "like new" to "guy in a garage job but the engine bay looks sweet"...
  6. I'm waiting on a battery tester to arrive so I can test the battery, but being it's from 2019 and spent some time on the docks/ships before i pressed it into regular service, it's probably not living its best life. Looks like the alt is ECU controlled and it's acting "normal" currently. I am not too worried about it, I'm 99% convinced it was my fault for crawling along in second gear with the revs real low.
  7. I think gsxr1000 and busa itbs are 48mm at throttle plate You might find Ducati around that size but you need 2 sets Early fuel injected crf450r had a 50mm throttle body
  8. When we imported the wifes vitz from Japan it would do weird shit. Turns out the fuse for the Alternator "sense" circuit was missing so ECU wasnt able to tell alternator to output anything Can only assume another vehicle nearby on the wharf or ship needed a fuse so they grabbed on from the vitz
  9. Thanks Clint, that makes sense. Yeah I'll go with a wrecker if it's a last resort
  10. I went on a barry rabbit hole and found out pretty much all 92-2001 small hondas (b and d series motors) all have the same ac compressor. I noticed the orthia has a nicer shaped discharge (heh) hose, the crv has the same shaped hose so I grabed one from pick a part. It brings the line closer to the chassis rail and away from potential turbo stuff. Found a service port adapter and valve removal tool on rock auto for cheap so got them with some other stuff I had coming. Now low side has a R134 service port, it took me a few attempts to realise I needed to remove the old valve before screwing that fitting on I also grabbed a high pressure line off a ba Falcon so I can use the service port off that or just use the line as sleeve. I also figured out the self install or diy ac line kits use oetiker or double ear clamps on their lines. Once the condenser arrives I plan to chop the crv condenser end off and use the ear clamps on one of the fittings I got off AliExpress. If it doesn't work it was a $30 experiment and I can still use the crv alloy shaped hose and braze a mior fitting onto it
  11. It's the low pressure ac line. Was $250 all said and done. From memory the last power steer hose I had made up was a similar amount
  12. Hi all, I’m currently looking at getting some itb’s for a new project, I’m needing something around 50-51mm in diameter needing in a set of 4 ideally. does anyone know of any motorcycle itb’s, or something off a random car that are around this? I know there is aftermarket options but I have short arms and deep pockets. I’m aware bmw s54 etc but again, spendy… has anyone delved into this hard and come out with any good options?
  13. Out with the old, In with the nucleus.
  14. @KKtrips and or @cletus Just read Chris' comments in the dodgy cert advice Facebook group around the bump steer swing test. On a ke70/ae86 with Techno Toy Tuning roll center adjusters between the strut and steering knuckle is a swing test required for Cert if the car doesn't have adjustable height tie-rod ends? I know @advokit had trouble getting a cert because he had bump steer adjustable tie-rod ends and ended up reverting to factory as he couldn't get his bump steer within spec. Will I need a swing test with just the RCAs? From my understanding the factory bump steer in a corolla is pretty bad to begin with?
  15. Can you draw a diagram showing how the K11 surge tank pump box thing works? I need to make a custom tank for my Triumph, to fit between the strut towers it has now. I'll need to figure out some kind of arrangement to prevent surge. I was thinking of putting in curved partitions so the fuel gets trapped in the 'dam' rather than going all the way to the end of the tank. I don't really have the space to make a well in the bottom.
  16. Better give this an update... Yes I did find some genuine replacement parts, and so back together it goes with new bearings/syncros etc.... While I have a transfer box I rebuilt for the back end of the conversion I thought it best to rebuild the one I had here. Needed a new set of main bearings (which cost a few $$$) but everything else was in fair condition. Its way easier to assemble vertically on the bench. Though I havent yet gone to the effort to move it off yet.... With that done I need to give the engine a good clean up and external refresh, more soon.
  17. Yesterday
  18. I tried removing separating the test sample at local engineers yesterday. Got to 12 ton pressure and it wasn't moving and the shaft we were using to push with started bending. We called it quits before it spat out (had put a shroud around the lot but still...) I'm going back with a beefier press tool. I want to see and hear the bang No way it's gonna shift in my setup that's for sure.
  19. Sprint car and midget full width axles simply have a shrunk on flange for the final drive. It'd be easy enough to scotch key your setup if you wanted belt and braces.
  20. Rear shock, needs a new top hat, im assuming this is just factory stuff, hit me up if you have one!
  21. Peak Engineering textbook and probably one of the best books ever written Shrink fit the axles is a brilliant idea, love it!
  22. With space in the nose cone so tight the only way to wire the headlights and fan was to take the front off for the umpteenth bloody time….grrr….! So much easier to wire on the bench. Found some heavy connectors to make disassembly easier in the future. Love using the old school fabric wrap. I’d bought a big box of connectors off Banggood for a price that was too good to be true…….. … so I wired up the headlights. I refitted the front………. I refitted the front………. I installed the gorgeous over-priced P700 headlights…. ……..and started blowing fuses whenever I powered them up! After an evening of uttering nasty horrible words and throwing thinly veiled insults at Rigamortice re the marital status of her parents at her time of inception, while going round and round in circles with a variety of test lights, test probes and multi meters - I discovered the f****** “too good to be true” Bangood connectors were………. You guessed it ‘too good to be F****** true’! After a quick trip to Jaycar the following day, I paid through the nose for the right connectors…and we now have head lights. And as an added bonus they even worked in the dark! So I stuck the bonnet on and discovered it didn’t fit…. I loosened it off and started pulling things into line before re-tightening. Finally, it all fits, (sort of).
  23. Exhaust box....An empty tube - say 4inOD 1.6mm wall. Across the back of the car. Your two sides discharging into it straight in 90deg to CL. Discharge pipes from each end. 1 1/2in OD. Length inside box to be perf tube same 1 1/2in OD. Close/blank off the inner ends of this and make them overlap with a figure 8 support in the center of the box. 90 deg bends outside the main tube for the discharge pipes to point them out the back. This will work - and not be too noisy.
  24. Thanks man. I'm glad to have sorted that bit out ok. Now scratching my head on exhaust box design.
  25. Loving the fuel tank shenanigans proper design and thought out... not that you do anything less than awesome
  26. Well I don't think this dudes earlier 1800 has the same troubles. It just keeps bouncing back! ( I reckon a 1500 would have had its cam belt housing/pulleys smashed) This fella Matt has some cool vids inc a nice offroad trip in Idaho back country on this bike.
  27. Toyota wreckers are thieves especially van/prado/hilux ones. Buy every single wreck at top dollar, corner market, print money. Around here anyway. Good luck
  28. That's a pretensioner belt Should replace it with the same thing so the airbag system still functions If the belt is changed to a non pretensioner type the air bag light will probably stay on
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