86 replies to this topic

[Fliboi]

build thread - viewtopic.php?f=17&t=31473&p=771867#p771867



chat some shit

[Valiant]

I wouldn't worry about race bearings. If it has run a bearing fitting bearings with more clearance would be a bad idea.
When you say spun do you mean they have turned in the big end of the rod?
Hopefuly it will take a set of shells and be a-OK again.

[Fliboi]

yep its spun the the bearing in the big end of the conrod (may have done the same in the main bearings too, but ill see)

are you sure race bearings are a waste? they cost me about $10 extra.


also, since ive read alot of stuff about metal particals being all through the engine. how would the best way to flush this be with the engine still in the car?

[DJZ]

It would probably be best to get the rod checked and resized if necessary, you may just end up with more trouble if it's not round.

[Fliboi]

how easy is it to mess up the rod? the crank journal looks the same on all 4 leading me to believe that next to no damage has been done. edit: and by same i mean nice and pollished. some signs that its had rotating parts if that makes. ill try and find a picture.

i know most to all of the theory for this kind of work but this is my first time actually carying it out, not including the vw engine i rebuilt in a controlled education environment,

[Fliboi]

my crank looks a great deal like the journal labelled '5'

[Valiant]

Yeah If it's spun the bearing in the rod it is messed up and needs to be resized. It's unlikely to have spun a main bearing but not impossible.
I would avoid the race bearings if they have more clearance than standard. If you reuse your crank it will be a bit worn so you will not want to add any more clearance.

[DJZ]

What does the inside of the rod look like with the bearing shells removed?

[Fliboi]

i can get race (and standard) bearings in standard, several undersized versions and standard with .001" oil clearance.

im not even sure what it means by the extra oil clearance. but i assume the ring is slightly smaller than standard, and this strikes me as bad because its more likley to spin.

and sweet as, ill wip the piston and rod out and get it sorted. would it be best to take it out the top. because im in two minds. if the main bearings havnt spun then im inclined to leave them be, the whole dont fix what aint broke deal. and if i can id like to leave the crank in situ.

[Simon]

Want a 3SGTE conversion?

lol

[Fliboi]

djz - from what ive seen so far, it looks the same as that crank picture i posted, but i wasa getting cold and packed up shortly after i got all the bearings out, so i havnt had a really close look.

[Fliboi]

Want a 3SGTE conversion?

lol

HA! i was literally expecting this question days ago. however no. as awesome as that would be. im straining myself not to buy shit i dont really need as it is.

[Valiant]

It has to come out the top. The piston/rod won't clear the main bearing saddles etc.
Do take the whole thing apart though if one bearing is dead the others are very likely to be dying.
Get that crank polished , the rod resized, a good clean, and a new set of bearings. You'll be racing.

[Fliboi]

if i have the rod resized, how do i go about bearings? do i need to buy 2 sets, one oversized and one standard?

[DJZ]

You can occasionally get bearings that are oversized on the outside diameter but not very often. I think what they normally do is machine a little bit off the faces where the two end pieces meet which makes the hole in the middle smaller and then machine that hole back to original size, but don't quote me on that.

If you had something accurate enough you could try measuring it to see if it's out of round first?

[Valiant]

I think what they normally do is machine a little bit off the faces where the two end pieces meet which makes the hole in the middle smaller and then machine that hole back to original size.

If you had something accurate enough you could try measuring it to see if it's out of round first?

Thats how it's done.
If the bearing has spun in the rod, the rod needs to be resized.

[4AG_Addict]

My workmate Steve originally carried out the 20Valve conversion on this car, back in 2004 or 2005, after another workmate had blown the original Bluetop 4AGE.

He was a bit sad when I showed him your photos, looks like it has seen plenty of abuse since then.

[Fliboi]

you can tell him i bought it with the sole intention of bringing it back up to standard

it does look a little better in person than the photos though.

[Truenotch]

When you say the bearing "spun", do you mean it actually rotated within the journal or did it just wear out and run the bearing?

If the bearing hasn't spun inside the rod I'd be inclined to fit the bearings in place - you can do big ends and mains without removing the engine. It takes about an hour (on a hoist) and you use the new main bearing to push the old one around and out (if that makes sense?). Did it one afternoon in my AW for a trip to Wellington.


Sing out if there's anything you need too. Me and simon have way too much AW11 stuff lying around and no cars to use it on.

[Fliboi]

i dont actually know if the bearings spun. but they are quite worn down. its just usually i would expect groves or nicks in the crank and rod but they look to be in quite good condition. ill go and grab some photos now, since this thread is basically in vain without them.