667 replies to this topic

[yoeddynz]

My first question is- I will have to mount my seats in following the LVVTA rules thingee.

I will use the right sized surface area steel plate on top of the floor but on the underside can I use big washers between floor skin and nuts or will I have to sandwich the floor with two plates of the same size?

And it mentions that welding of seat brackets must be done by a certified welder or the certifier has to be shown relevant proof that I can weld to those standards? Come again?

Photos of certed seat mounts would be great to get some ideas. The seats are like most Recaro style rails- just 4 bolts straight down. Rails sit flat on floor at front but I need to build something about 50mm high at back as floor is that much lower.

[UTERUS]

Have a chat to your local certifier about the seats and being certified welder, i know people in the past who have done all their own welding without the required paperwork and the certifier was ok with this.
I think some welds may be crack tested.


For a 90 degree brake line, i've used pre made brake lines from BNT with banjo fittings on one end.
I'm not sure if you can get banjo fittings to go straight to solid brake line, but it's worth asking around.

[yoeddynz]

Cool- oh by brake line I mean the vacuum hose going into the servo/booster. I need it to come off at 90 degree as the turbo heat shield is in the way now so it cant come straight out.

[eke_zetec_RWD]

whats the hole above the exhaust port on the housings? factory pp? haha some water gallery??

[yoeddynz]

Yeah its water ways for inlet manifold.

[RUNAMUCK]

Shit, I like your work mate.
It seems your skills at building a sweet project are only surpassed by your ability to meticulusly documnet everything. I even had a browse of your rotorvette build. You make fitting a rotor look as easy as just swapping over one 1256 to another, when compared to fitting say a G200. lol

[spanners]

Engine bay looks so tidy!

You mentioned a 10a e shaft in your first post - whats that about? Is the motor in the viva a 12a or a 10a?

[yoeddynz]

Cheers Mr Muck. And mr Spanners- the 10A shaft was just an example of what an aladins cave my friend has in his Mazda dealership. He sold the e-shaft to another kiwi who lives south of london- he is rebuilding the old 10A that was in my rx3. We did a run in both cars to Belgium and my old 10A managed to get him there and back with two buggered tips..

[rot808]

shit im loving the look of the sweet su setup, super tidy looking so far also, accolades

[avengertiger]

lookin good alex nice bit of progress made so when is it comin to mapua brap brap!!!!

[yoeddynz]

Yeah its coming along nice eh- now I am starting to plumb/wire in the donkey and I hate it as the nice clean look slowly goes with every pipe/wire. Trying to hide as much crap as possible. I have friend in Blighty who has loads of infor on elfords as he has just fitted one into his rx7. Wiring is quite simple- one solenoid to retard ignition as the boost comes on- roughly.

Does anyone know what the 12A turbo dizzys are like as they have some sort of anti detonation thing?

[RUNAMUCK]

DId they have a boost retard style diaphram on the dizzy?

[yoeddynz]

i'm not sure. The elford setup uses a boost activated pressure switch. This switches on a solenoid which blocks the vacuum pipe to the dizzy. But i'm trying confirm all this before i put it in.

[CUL8R]

Coming along nicely alex!

Looking really really good! Have you had any luck with wheels yet? Step brother now has a full set of superlites on the Blue HC estate - I think you've seen it?

[yoeddynz]

cheers chris.
Yeah i know- wagon parked at bunnings. Yeah its rude.
I'm hoping to get some wheels from a fella in wellington. Widened steels. They should be spot on for the look i want.
I need to find a really subtle small chin spoiler - to hopefully hide the bottom of the oil cooler. I'd have to cut holes for air flow. I cant move rad or cooler up any higher. Do you think it sticks out like a sore thumb or not too bad? Cause i think a spoiler might look out of place.

[RUNAMUCK]

Another way you could set up your vac advance, (Which nis how I plan to try mine when I ditch my locked dizzy, and go to my new old stock one) is run the feed to the diaphram from after the turbo. Then static time your engine with the hose connected. (At idle) I don't know about a turbo engine, But I have loads of vaccuum at idle on my supercharged engine. So It stands to reason the Vac mechanism will provide decent advance. Then once the turbo begins to spool, this "Initial" advance will fall way. Hopefully leaving the total advance at a safe number of degrees. I'm not a huge fan of locked dizzy's, but thats what I've been forced to run myself thus far.

[yoeddynz]

cheers for that. There are two pressure switches on the elford setup....



One switches on at anything over 0.5psi boost reduces the advance by switching on a solenoid valve that blocks the vacuum line to the dizzy from the carb- apparently it retards the timing by 1.25 degrees every 1000 rpm... the way I see it though is that it doesn't actually retard the ignition but actually just stops the ignition advancing.

The second pressure switch activates at 8 psi- this one is linked to the very simple Elford designed ECU and cuts every second spark till the boost drops back below 8psi. Apparently when they changed to the later type of waste gate which I have they lost this- but mine still has the switch. I wont fit the ecu as it is desigbned to piggy back into the rx7 loom. But I like the idea of the safety cutoff at 8 psi given my engine is high compression. So I thought I would get a relay that is always 'on' and run the ignition feed to the coils through it. Then when the 8psi switch is activated it powers the relay and that switchs off so cutting the ignition. Great idea or what?.... go on...burst my bubble. Go easy though... I lost a lot of sleep last night thinking about my carefully planned ACU (alex control unit)

[Dell'orto]

DId they have a boost retard style diaphram on the dizzy?

Pretty sure they did, had a customer with a carby 12AT who was after one.

[mikuni]

Are you always going to be running it at a pressure lower than 8psi?

[yoeddynz]

Yeah- I think the wastegate is set to open at 5psi. But there have been a few overseas who have played with the elford setup and running a bit more boost. This fella from dutchy land emailed me this...

'The 2 dashpot on the rail are indeed for the ignition. You can remove them, just only make sure you have something to deal with the ignition in case the boost goes too high.
The only extra electrical bit on the Elford were a interior light dimmer, so there are no electrical culprits. All is mechanical.

My engine is a stock 12A engine , out of a stock european SA. I’ve done a lot of modifications on the ignition, intake, SU carb, wastegate and exhaust.
With all the modifications I get 230 HP instead of the 160 HP. I’m running slightly higher boost as normal, 0.6 bar maximum.

For ignition I run a DirectFire setup with a old-schoolJacobs rotary Ignition system with NGK Racing sparkplugs (B9EGV)
The SU carb and intake manifold has been internally polisched to get the best airflow possible. The wastegate has been milled out to the max.
I run a own design custom made 3” open exhaust system with 3x 3” freeflow mufflers.
The SU is fed with cold air from the intakefilter wich sits in front of the radiator (so inside the nose, direct in the driving air)'



I'm just thinking of setting the 8psi switch as a fail safe device incase say the wastegate sticks or something- i figured if its easy to do then might as well?