sheepers 1976 RA23
Posted 27 April 2007 - 03:17 PM
this is my other money pit.
i built the car in melbourne and bought it back with me when i came back.
its running a 1JZ with a W55. it has a comminwhore LSD, coilovers, nolithane and all the other bits.
then i decided to bend it.
its currently in a million bits. the front has been straightened and ive got most of the bits i need to re-build it.
the next stage is to get the paint done then ill put it back together.
Posted 30 August 2007 - 08:36 AM
at this point im not trying to build a show car, i just want the thing back on the road.
ive changed the front crossmember so i can move the radiator forward.
a custom alloy radiator is being made now, this will allow me to put the fan behind the radiator and clean up the whole front layout.
this is a trial fit of the pannels to make sure everything fits and will line up. so far so good.
and this is my two most prized possessions sitting in the shed collecting dust and not being driven.
the next thing im have to do is get the bonnet,and gards dipped. then its trial fit the motor and get all the bits and pipeces in the right place, then paint the bay....
Posted 19 October 2007 - 06:42 AM
i have made a new exhaust and sorted out the intercooler/ radiator mounting.
the engine bay is going to be painted on the 27th of this month so ive been busy getting the bay ready for paint.
looks very weird with no front to speak of and basically complete from the fire wall back. i can lift the front off the stands, it weighs nothing.....
next week will be priming/sanding spot priming etc, then paint.
then i can put the motor back in propperly and start it. i might have to do some little skids just to make sure all is cool before we paint the rest of the car
Posted 27 October 2007 - 08:03 PM
Sam and Peter talking shit when Peter should be painting my car...
check out old school garage sheepers
next is put the motor back in, get it running again, then paint the rest of it. i have to spend next in brisbane so that will suck a bit, but you cant have everything...
Posted 08 November 2007 - 09:05 PM
still got heaps of bits to make/buy but its getting pretty close now!!
Posted 17 November 2007 - 07:42 PM
today i drove it!!!
its minus a few bits, like a paint job and a bonnet, but it goes fine, its really powerful compared to how it was!! it put the shits up me, might have plenty to do with the front end being all over the place, no wheel alignment and such. but on the whole its sweet. goes well and no hickups yet....
im going to a track day next monday which will be totally cool.
il let you know how i get on....
p.s, check out my racing boots!
Posted 06 April 2008 - 01:17 PM
it has taken me ages to finish the prep work because ive never done a whole car before and it takes a bit of time when your usless.
ive just put the etch primer over the bare steel, ready for two pack primer.
the front guards and bonnet are being file finished by my pannel beater mate.
but im pretty happy with how its looking so far.
ill be back on the road soon and im pretty happy about that.
Posted 18 July 2008 - 11:34 AM
the mods will growl you.........
Posted 28 August 2008 - 11:05 AM
anyway, there has been some talk about height adjustable rear suspension so i thought i would post what i had done.
really not a difficult job. i now have a completely height adjustable rear, and i can change spring rates with straight off the shelf parts. and because i have a good relationship with my suspension parts supplier i can try any spring i like and if its no good i can give them back with no charge! sweet.
there's more than one way to skin a cat, but this is how i did it.....
first you have to remove the old spring cone/bump stop. just drill out the spots.
then get some 2 1/2" pipe (63mm OD) and cut two lengths about 20mm long. make two disks from 2mm plate about 90mm in diamater and weld an M8 nut in the center.
then weld the bits of 2 1/2" tube onto the disks somewhere near the middle.
i don't have a picture of these before i welded them to the car but this is one welded to the car.
you cant see it in the photo very well but 90mm is about the same diameter as the spot welds that held the original cone in place so it makes it easier to line up the new plate when your tacking it into place.
NOTE, once i had welded the plates into the car i then used the nut as a guide and drilled and tapped an M8 thread right through the body of the car. and this photo shows the stock bump stop in place.
next i got some standard coilover sleeves and welded them onto the original spring perches.
this takes a bit of fucking around and you'll probably have to put the diff in and take it out a few times to get the angles right.
as the diff doesn't move directly up and down (especially as it gets to the top of its travel) you need to compromise with the fore and aft angle of the adjuster sleeve.
these two photos show how much the top of the sleeve moves back as the diff goes down.
in the "up" photo the bump stop is inside the top of the sleeve, i intend to make a tube with a solid top to go inside the sleeve for the bump stop to push on. the bump stop will not go into the sleeve when its all finished.
then all you need is to adjust you height till it suits what you want and once your happy with the height and spring rate get your shocks shortened to keep it all captive.
i have koni shocks that have enough travel to allow the drop in height at the back of the car with out binding but you'll need to check what you can get away with.
oh, i also made some extensions for my bump stops so they would have some support rather than just the nut. all i did was cut some lengths of tube about the same diameter as the backing plate on the bump stop and extended the M8 stud that sticks out of the back of the bump stop.
you can kind of see it in this pic.
i have dropped the back of the car by 65mm and i lowered the front by 20mm. it has made a huge difference to how the car handles and ive only had it back on the road for a week, cant wait for the next track day....
ill post some pics of the car if it ever stops raining.
if you have any questions just ask.
it stopped raining.
Posted 15 December 2008 - 08:08 PM
these are the only pics i have with it clean, still not polished yet so the paint is straight off the gun.
in other news, the car now has LN130 front calipers, new ball joints and pitman arm and a full black interior.
its going really well and never misses a beat. i drive it to work every day.
also, i have a set of semi slicks and im going to a track day on sunday at Taupo, track two. very cant wait for that!! will be big fun.
Posted 23 December 2008 - 01:33 PM
Toyo R888's are my new beast friend, i had the best time and went quicker all day and there is heaps of inprovement i could make to go faster. (all with my driving, car was willing me to go faster)
car couldn't have been better, brakes were excellent (i never had the balls to push them further than they would go) and the tyres!! i would marry them if i could, as i say, i drove about 750k's on them, got through a whole tank of gas on the track so plenty of track time was had, and they still look good, they look better than when i bought them!
the new rear setup worked so well, could chose between over steer or under steer when i wanted, lost it a couple of times (it rained at one point) and was easily able to get it back on track.
realistically this just means i wasn't going fast enough but that will come, im yet to drive the same track twice so plenty of learning to go.
some pics, not the best but you get the idea.
with some luck my friend has shot some video from his car (followed me for a bit) and it will be on you tube. ill link it if it comes about.
i started to get a missfire at full load. fairly common for higher boosted 1JZ's so im going to look at plugs and coils first (they havent been out since i built the car 6 years ago)
no in-car yet but heres hoping, the guy in the yellow starlet had the camera so hopefully some good footage....
Posted 06 January 2009 - 06:23 PM
i used 1200 dry on a palm orbital, followed by 3000 diamond pads that are used wet on the orbital. then a cut with a standard foam pad/polisher and cutting/polishing compound. then finally a wax with mothers something or other step two stuff for the swurls.
as per usual the pics dont show how good it looks in real life but these will give you an idea.
Posted 04 March 2009 - 06:15 AM
\anyway, check out the link to my RA28 in my signature. it should point you in the right direction with the 1UZ. the R&P conversion is not to difficult and well worth the space. i reckon you'd be pretty tight trying to get the exhaust past the steering box....
Posted 05 June 2009 - 07:42 PM
after the incident my and KK checked the car over and decided all as well, a little bent on the outside but the important bits were ok, so i went back out and raced for the rest of the day. the car was fine (except for the radiator fan falling off) i did a 1.25.1 before the crash and i did the same time latter in the day. the car felt fine so im sure nothing fundamental was bent.
skip forward a few months and im now back from holiday and getting stuck into fixing the damage.
ive pretty much fixed all the little bits that were bent, my great friend Peter is going to fix the gard and the bonnet but the rest is done and ready to go back together.
if i really needed to i could drive it to work on monday so all in all, not to bad. ill hold off re-spraying the gard/bonnet for the meantime. i want to concentrate my time (and more importantly my money) on getting my RA28 going. its been waaaaaaaaaayyy to long since that car has moved under its own power.
my only regret is nothing. i built this car to race, and race i shall!!
Posted 10 June 2009 - 07:47 PM
ive made new mounts for the fan and reassembled the front. radiator and intercooler are in, headlights are on and everything lines up fairly well.
need new fan belt and glycol and were back in business.
oh, and i need to get my backup bumper to fit, its rusty as and bent to fuck but not as bad as the one spencer modified for me
plan is to drive to work on monday.
plans have been known to change.....
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