yeah you would wanna get rid of that oaint pretty fast huh..
how much ya get it for? if ya ever wanna sell it im your man! i want a full paneled windowless van! and someone took the buynow on the one i was looking at
matthews mk2 panelvan
Started by
atropine
, 06 Sep 2005 11:05 AM
23 replies to this topic
#1
atropine
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Posted 06 September 2005 - 11:05 AM
awesomeness
yeah you would wanna get rid of that oaint pretty fast huh..
how much ya get it for? if ya ever wanna sell it im your man! i want a full paneled windowless van! and someone took the buynow on the one i was looking at
yeah you would wanna get rid of that oaint pretty fast huh..
how much ya get it for? if ya ever wanna sell it im your man! i want a full paneled windowless van! and someone took the buynow on the one i was looking at
#2
durty
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Posted 06 September 2005 - 11:27 AM
loving the coulour. its pretty
#3
Guest_WESTCORT_*
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Posted 07 September 2005 - 01:55 PM
did you get this from omaha ?? im pretty sure ive seen this at a house up there... unless theres another van out there with paint like that!
#4
Guest_matthew.hague_*
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Posted 07 September 2005 - 06:58 PM
Yeah omaha! I was lucky, I put a wanted ad in the t&e for a panelwagon, and this guy rang the day it came out. I was after a mk1, but the one he was selling had the motor I wanted (1600), and was pretty stright so I went for it.
It was $800, I was happy with this cause it came with a few parts as well. I put the major ones on trade me, my user name is matthew.hague if you want a look.
Colours ok, took it to the rugby and got a few comments! still ringing round panelbeaters, R J Don in Wairau Park is good, ive been there before and they have a bakeoven and things.
Had a look at yours atropine - not bad! The windows are good, just one more thing to go wrong I guess! Be grateful when your reversing though - its a nightmare trying to see whats comeing down the road in mine!
Are you going to keep the same motor? I saw you picked up that sierra gearbox, im still on the lookout for one.
Still looking round for that garage, if any of you out there have any within the North Auckland area, I would be very interested!
If anyone out there can help me with:
-Garages
-Quality places to get a bare-metal spray
-Quality places to get a engine recondition
I would be grateful!
Heres a link to my trademe listings:
http://www.trademe.c...?member=1205381
I will lower the prices if you want them through this website. One thing Ive noticed - good sort of "Ill hook you up mate" attitude on this site. Keep it up!
It was $800, I was happy with this cause it came with a few parts as well. I put the major ones on trade me, my user name is matthew.hague if you want a look.
Colours ok, took it to the rugby and got a few comments! still ringing round panelbeaters, R J Don in Wairau Park is good, ive been there before and they have a bakeoven and things.
Had a look at yours atropine - not bad! The windows are good, just one more thing to go wrong I guess! Be grateful when your reversing though - its a nightmare trying to see whats comeing down the road in mine!
Are you going to keep the same motor? I saw you picked up that sierra gearbox, im still on the lookout for one.
Still looking round for that garage, if any of you out there have any within the North Auckland area, I would be very interested!
If anyone out there can help me with:
-Garages
-Quality places to get a bare-metal spray
-Quality places to get a engine recondition
I would be grateful!
Heres a link to my trademe listings:
http://www.trademe.c...?member=1205381
I will lower the prices if you want them through this website. One thing Ive noticed - good sort of "Ill hook you up mate" attitude on this site. Keep it up!
#5
Pushrod
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Posted 07 September 2005 - 08:03 PM
Im on the shore too and im on the look out for some gagage space also so if I find something ill let you know
looks like a good project too keeps us updated
looks like a good project too keeps us updated
#6
atropine
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Posted 07 September 2005 - 08:24 PM
my project van is getting the 1600 out of my sport and the 5spd
leaving my red panelvan with its 1300 for now.. might leave it for good..
well, if ya wanna sell, gimme a bell.. would give ya a grand without hesitation
leaving my red panelvan with its 1300 for now.. might leave it for good..
well, if ya wanna sell, gimme a bell.. would give ya a grand without hesitation
#7
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Posted 07 September 2005 - 08:55 PM
Ill keep looking, if I find something commercial we may be able to get a discount or something.
Atropine, I made the mistake of selling the last car I was going to do up, Ive seen it since, its awesome, and im jealous! If I do sell it in the future, ill give you first option.
Atropine, I made the mistake of selling the last car I was going to do up, Ive seen it since, its awesome, and im jealous! If I do sell it in the future, ill give you first option.
#8
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Posted 12 September 2005 - 08:41 PM
found that garage, only a single sorry...
I NEED GUARDS!!!!
If you look my project forum, youll see why! any help appreciated.
I NEED GUARDS!!!!
If you look my project forum, youll see why! any help appreciated.
#9
rs2000escort
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Posted 12 September 2005 - 09:11 PM
your guard aint to bac they could weld that really, its hard to find van guards im getting new ones from england but there pricey as so you prob want be keen it would be easier to just to get them fixed up and cheaper unless there is more rust your not showing us 
#10
rs2000escort
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Posted 12 September 2005 - 09:12 PM
is it dented to below the rust like pushed out ??
#11
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Posted 12 September 2005 - 09:23 PM
You mean had the rust been pushed in to below flush? It had been sanded and bogged by the previous owner - not very well, and I smacked it round with a spanner a bit. Percusion tuning, works a treat. Its to fiddly to weld, ill just get new ones.
#12
atropine
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Posted 12 September 2005 - 09:29 PM
good jobs on the sanding..
might have to check it out when i get up to aucks..
keep looking for prices.. i got quotes of over 3500.. just for random jobs in town.. got mine painted (and helped sanding) for 600.. just look as much as possible
might have to check it out when i get up to aucks..
keep looking for prices.. i got quotes of over 3500.. just for random jobs in town.. got mine painted (and helped sanding) for 600.. just look as much as possible
#13
Guest_matthew.hague_*
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Posted 12 September 2005 - 09:33 PM
600 sounds good! your welcome to see it, my numbers 021 374426, you may have a few suggestions for me!
#14
Gaz
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Posted 12 September 2005 - 11:50 PM
2g is real cheap for a bare metal spray. I paid round $2200 and when we added all the shit up like paint, primer, welding and estimated his sandpaper usage he only made shit all. He said that half way through the job tho. Thats why it took 6months.
Panel was $900
Paint was >$450
Primer was >$200
Clear >$200 maybe
Sandpaper >$100
Masking and other >$100
So thats $1750 without taking labour or power or bog into count.
So that means he made round $400 for 6 months of cunty work. Bugger that for a joke.
Maybe go for a little more expensive one.
Panel was $900
Paint was >$450
Primer was >$200
Clear >$200 maybe
Sandpaper >$100
Masking and other >$100
So thats $1750 without taking labour or power or bog into count.
So that means he made round $400 for 6 months of cunty work. Bugger that for a joke.
Maybe go for a little more expensive one.
#15
atropine
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Posted 13 September 2005 - 10:26 AM
yeah when it adds up it aint cheap..
it was a mate doing it.. kinda.. shoulda seen his mini.. it was fucken nuts..
it was a mate doing it.. kinda.. shoulda seen his mini.. it was fucken nuts..
#16
oldrx7
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Posted 16 September 2005 - 04:37 PM
you had any luck finding guards yet?
i have a mk2 wagon (same guards) and it took me ages just to find 1 guard, as they are different to sedan guards.
no place had them, you found anywhere?
i have a mk2 wagon (same guards) and it took me ages just to find 1 guard, as they are different to sedan guards.
no place had them, you found anywhere?
#18
oldrx7
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Posted 17 September 2005 - 10:20 AM
http://www.steelpanels.co.uk/product_index.html for all your old ford needs lol
cheers mate, will look into that,
im in the (long) process of doing up a mk2 estate, owned it for about 6 years now and has been off the road for about 4 years now
need some time and money for it
#19
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Posted 21 September 2005 - 06:21 PM
Still sanding, looks like the guy who had it before me hammered in the panel behind the rear wheels and then bogged it up! That'll take a bit of panel beating.
I will try and get it as stright as possible, and then fill it with something. I could go for bog, or lead.
I saw someone using lead on the discovery channel ages ago, they were restoring a Jaguar E type 2+2, and were using lead for body filler. They would just heat up the lead, melt it into the cavity, and then smooth it over with a file.
Anyone used this method? Know pros & cons?
I will try and get it as stright as possible, and then fill it with something. I could go for bog, or lead.
I saw someone using lead on the discovery channel ages ago, they were restoring a Jaguar E type 2+2, and were using lead for body filler. They would just heat up the lead, melt it into the cavity, and then smooth it over with a file.
Anyone used this method? Know pros & cons?
#20
retep130
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Posted 21 September 2005 - 09:27 PM
Getting the Lead On
Applying metal body fillers
by Harold Pace
Customizing with lead body filler was so popular in the 1950s that it gave us a new term, Lead Sled, to describe a radically customized sedan slathered and smoothed with the soft, pliable metal. Today the advent of high-quality, easily applied plastic (polyester) fillers has reduced the number of experienced lead workers to a minimum, but lead still has benefits other fillers do not. In fact, "lead" doesn't even have to be lead any more!
What It Is
Lead was the first popular body filler, used by auto factories and repair shops alike. It was melted into gaps and along seams, but if improperly applied it would crack and fall out just like the cheap plastic fillers of the 1960s. However, a good lead man was much in demand by premium body shops and customizers.
The technical term for "lead" is "body solder." For auto bodywork, it is actually a mix of lead and tin, usually a 30-percent tin/70-percent lead alloy. This is different from solder used for electronic repairs, and the two are not interchangeable. Although handling lead-based body solder is not harmful, breathing lead dust is dangerous, so hand filing (instead of power grinding) and the use of a respirator is recommended. Even better, a number of companies are now selling body solders that substitute copper and zinc for lead (still combined with tin) to form safer filler materials.
But why use lead at all? There are some instances where metal body fillers are better than plastic. Joints that are subject to stress and warping are more likely to crack plastic than metal (although lead is not a cure-all for improper engineering or assembly). And plastic easily cracks away from the thin edges of fenders or doors. Lead is also considered more appropriate for high-end repairs and restoration on collector cars.
How It's Done
Working with lead is simple, but like all crafts it requires continual practice to do it well. The basic materials can be bought in kit form or purchased separately. First, the metal area where the lead will be applied must be cleaned of all paint, corrosion, dirt and grease. A sanding disc or wire brush is used to work the metal until it is clean and bright.
Next the area must be "tinned" to provide maximum adhesion for the lead. There are various tinning compounds, but most are in paste form. The area is heated using a torch (propane or acetylene) set for a soft, cool flame (a blue flame with no yellow is best). The tinning compound is then applied with an acid brush. The compound is heated until it melts and "tins" an area slightly larger than the repair area (to allow smoothing-in later).
Now it's time to apply the lead. The torch is played over the surface to keep it warm while the lead, which is in round or square stick form, is touched to the area and the end heated as well. The solder will stick to the surface, and the stick is twisted to break it off. Lead is applied until there is enough to fill the work area. Experienced bodymen know not to overheat the panel, which can cause warping, so they stop and allow everything to cool from time to time. They use just enough heat to do the job, and work slowly.
Once the lead is on the panel, it is kept just warm enough to maintain a semi-solid (plastic-like) state. Now it's time for a new tool, a wooden paddle to shape the lead (a combination of flat and round paddles allow for easier shaping). The paddles are dipped in tallow or beeswax to keep the lead from sticking to them. While the lead is soft, it is shaped and smoothed as close as possible to the final shape. Excess lead can be removed and reused if kept clean. Taking time to get the lead smooth will save finishing time later. The area is allowed to cool naturally (do not quench with water), and residue is removed with a scrub brush and water.
Now it's time to finish out the repair. Vixen files are best for hand work (and ideal for beginners), but if you are using lead-free body solder and have lots of experience you can use a grinding wheel. Although professionals sometimes brag about not using any plastic filler, most of the time a small amount is needed to fill tiny pinholes and imperfections.
If done properly, leaded repairs or customizing should last longer than those done with plastic fillers. However, if the surface is not cleaned properly it is possible for contaminants to get trapped in the lead and attack your paint job down the road. The importance of cleanliness cannot be overstressed. As with all such projects, practice on an old body panel before you turn the torch on your pride and joy!!
Applying metal body fillers
by Harold Pace
Customizing with lead body filler was so popular in the 1950s that it gave us a new term, Lead Sled, to describe a radically customized sedan slathered and smoothed with the soft, pliable metal. Today the advent of high-quality, easily applied plastic (polyester) fillers has reduced the number of experienced lead workers to a minimum, but lead still has benefits other fillers do not. In fact, "lead" doesn't even have to be lead any more!
What It Is
Lead was the first popular body filler, used by auto factories and repair shops alike. It was melted into gaps and along seams, but if improperly applied it would crack and fall out just like the cheap plastic fillers of the 1960s. However, a good lead man was much in demand by premium body shops and customizers.
The technical term for "lead" is "body solder." For auto bodywork, it is actually a mix of lead and tin, usually a 30-percent tin/70-percent lead alloy. This is different from solder used for electronic repairs, and the two are not interchangeable. Although handling lead-based body solder is not harmful, breathing lead dust is dangerous, so hand filing (instead of power grinding) and the use of a respirator is recommended. Even better, a number of companies are now selling body solders that substitute copper and zinc for lead (still combined with tin) to form safer filler materials.
But why use lead at all? There are some instances where metal body fillers are better than plastic. Joints that are subject to stress and warping are more likely to crack plastic than metal (although lead is not a cure-all for improper engineering or assembly). And plastic easily cracks away from the thin edges of fenders or doors. Lead is also considered more appropriate for high-end repairs and restoration on collector cars.
How It's Done
Working with lead is simple, but like all crafts it requires continual practice to do it well. The basic materials can be bought in kit form or purchased separately. First, the metal area where the lead will be applied must be cleaned of all paint, corrosion, dirt and grease. A sanding disc or wire brush is used to work the metal until it is clean and bright.
Next the area must be "tinned" to provide maximum adhesion for the lead. There are various tinning compounds, but most are in paste form. The area is heated using a torch (propane or acetylene) set for a soft, cool flame (a blue flame with no yellow is best). The tinning compound is then applied with an acid brush. The compound is heated until it melts and "tins" an area slightly larger than the repair area (to allow smoothing-in later).
Now it's time to apply the lead. The torch is played over the surface to keep it warm while the lead, which is in round or square stick form, is touched to the area and the end heated as well. The solder will stick to the surface, and the stick is twisted to break it off. Lead is applied until there is enough to fill the work area. Experienced bodymen know not to overheat the panel, which can cause warping, so they stop and allow everything to cool from time to time. They use just enough heat to do the job, and work slowly.
Once the lead is on the panel, it is kept just warm enough to maintain a semi-solid (plastic-like) state. Now it's time for a new tool, a wooden paddle to shape the lead (a combination of flat and round paddles allow for easier shaping). The paddles are dipped in tallow or beeswax to keep the lead from sticking to them. While the lead is soft, it is shaped and smoothed as close as possible to the final shape. Excess lead can be removed and reused if kept clean. Taking time to get the lead smooth will save finishing time later. The area is allowed to cool naturally (do not quench with water), and residue is removed with a scrub brush and water.
Now it's time to finish out the repair. Vixen files are best for hand work (and ideal for beginners), but if you are using lead-free body solder and have lots of experience you can use a grinding wheel. Although professionals sometimes brag about not using any plastic filler, most of the time a small amount is needed to fill tiny pinholes and imperfections.
If done properly, leaded repairs or customizing should last longer than those done with plastic fillers. However, if the surface is not cleaned properly it is possible for contaminants to get trapped in the lead and attack your paint job down the road. The importance of cleanliness cannot be overstressed. As with all such projects, practice on an old body panel before you turn the torch on your pride and joy!!
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