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drftnmaz

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About drftnmaz

  • Birthday October 26

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  1. Probably no help but ~14years ago when i messed with Delco tuning stuff I remember being stuck and couldn't get the live tuning bit working. Turned out I had to load 2 different files into the program before it would work, was a very simple thing that took me ages before someone pointed it out, (like a Bin file and a xps file or somthing) because everyone else did this without thinking about it so it wasn't ever mentioned, lol. Unfortunately this was so long ago i can't remember the excat details sorry
  2. I don't have the equipment for surfacing the flywheel. To drill, tap, surface and check finger heights was $250, also was worried I may order the wrong part, so i figured it wasn't worth the hassle, and this gearbox is so heavy I don't want to risk having to pull it out again if I got anything wrong. Sent flywheel to MPautoparts, so was quoted $1100, (2700lb clutch kit $700, machining $250, $150 upgrade to ceramic disk) Once they received (sent nzpost, $60 for 25kg flywheel and $24 for 9kg other bits) I choose the Ceramic disc(which they didn't recommend for diesels due to dampening of springs on disc, but suited the torque loads I wanted) Once they inspected they informed me there was a slightly cheaper 3000lb p/plate(to suit ceramic disc) so I went with that. Making the new total $1030inc gst but plus freight($40) (included new release and spigot bearings) Freight back was next day for the flywheel but clutch got lost for a few extra days, Now is all in the vehicle, now more fab work before I can test it out. Greg was knowledgeable, helpful and good to deal with, a little hard to get a hold of, but what busy man isn't! Thanks for the recommendations guys!
  3. Thanks heaps guys! I've been in contact with Greg at Mp and also Drews automotive, both have recommended the same upgrade of drilling and tapping flywheel to fit a more commonly available diesel pressure plate (from D40 best i can tell) and both are in the $1200-1300 range so more what I'd expect. Only minor problem is freight, flywheel on it's own is 25kg(before packaging), but most places won't take over 25kg and I need to send pressure plate aswell, so i'll have to use mainfreight or some such, this freight issue put me off going even further to Christchurch but do really appreciate the info and i'm sure others will see this one day and use them.
  4. Is there any NZ companies that still make custom clutch's? I used to use Autoclutch but he closed down ages ago, unsure who does this sort of work in nz these days? I'm building a tow wagon using QD32 engine with added turbos so need to upgrade the clutch to handle but got quoted $1930 from BNT at trade price for one from xtremeclutch in aus (full face cermic plate rated for 560nm, KNI25004-1C) Maybe i'm getting too old(and inflation is crazier than I thought) but $2k for a clutch seems over the top?
  5. 1uz is around 70mm, used one on a2jz build a few years ago, had some ulgy piping off it that i had to weld up tho.
  6. How about triangle trumpets?
  7. Nice, the bigger the dump pipe the better for spool/transient response, this helps with pressure drop across the turbine, it can step down to smaller down the line with next to no losses (ie 4" dump to 3" system, it's cheaper, easier to get, clears ground better etc) And don't go too big on the exhaust crossover pipes, you need to keep velocity high pre-turbine, so close to factory ID and a nice merge where they meet. Being a V motor I'd also consider using a slip join or maybe flexi between the two sides to help with expansion etc (i've never played with flexi's on high temp/pressure side so unsure which one you'd use)
  8. If you want to run low pressure at some point then you want a large gate, if you were only ever running high boost then you'd get away with a small gate... Being over 3L and that big compressor inducer, I'd run a 60mm if it was me, but you'd probably get away with a 50mm if positioned perfectly (this is called wastegate priority)
  9. 1600cc n/a shouldn't make too much heat! get your old core modified, so the bottom hose swaps sides and they add a divider plate half way up to make it twin pass, Trevor French Radiators in Otahuhu are real good for this type of work, old school processes and old school prices
  10. I don't think the chinaGTX3582R with .82 turbine would be terrible, just maybe a tad laggy because the compressor will take alot of engery to get spinning fast enough to start making torque, once it does it will be a beast tho! I'd go external gate then you know it will flow enough if you wish to run low boost at some point, it sucks paying for dyno time only to find out gate hole is too small I've had alot of turbo's glowing red hot over the years and the bush bearing ones always lasted longer, I believe its because they have a much higher oil flow so it's better when pushing their limits. (ballbearing you only drip the oil in with 1mm restrictor) auto's put up with bigger turbos because the torque converter will eat up what you give it and load the motor, so this with a 2step to get spooling should give good results at the drag strip once you iron it all out The GT45 is abit bigge, usually has ~68mm comp inducer, but it has the supercharger to spool it so you want a bigger turbo, I haven't watched any vids on it yet tho
  11. Personally I don't think that's too bad of a turbo for the V6 motor (comp inducer is too big IMO). Because it's got the smaller .82 turbine housing (normally has 1.06 on the 4L) then I think It'll probably drive good, but i haven't messed with china replacements so really don't know what it's like or how it will last... Internal gates are great IF it's big enough to bypass enough gas... which is something the genuine 3582's can struggle with when a bigger compressor is added, so most of the time it's safer to go with a bigger external gate and then you know(if installed correctly) it won't ever boost creep and you can change springs to change boost level, personally I'd only run v-band externals, 2-bolt style is asking for trouble one day down the track. The genuine ford turbo would be more suited, but sometimes you gotta work with what you can get... The 30 series turbine is way too small IMO, The 35 turbine wheel flows sooo much more(actually flows amazing amounts for a 68mm size wheel) well on the garrett's it does anyway As for Ballbearing Vs Bush, I'd take bush bearings if available because they last better and are simpler, if going BB then you'd probably want to look at a genuine garrett.
  12. I think I'd make a plate with holes drilled to suit inlet manifold threads on block, have this standing ~2"? off the flange with some long bolts, then add a threaded hole in line with where the frost plug needs to go, then put bolt with lots of thread thru this hole and a socket on the end with the frost plug, turning the block into a press... long winded way to get there, but ya gotta do it the long way somtimes!
  13. yup because vtnz charge $70? per wof so have already factored the constant audit costs into it, most garages only charge ~half that so have to play the balancing game in order to stay in business... and a 18month audit saves you alot compared to a 12month audit! Each to their own, I hope you all drive safe cars and personally don't mind where or how you get your wofs, there is good and bad stories wherever you go! I'm just trying to share some incites
  14. yup I fail 95% of my wofs first time, on purpose... the only car that passes first time is my 2018 corolla, because it should. Having worked at a wof place as a young fulla I learnt how the system worked and how the audits went, and once you get in the bad books with them then the audits get super picky and more frequent, then it costs you lots more to undertake these audits than rechecks ever would. It's a numbers game, and it's played by computers and controlled by bureaucrats, not mechanics, so you gotta play along if you want to be part of it.
  15. For actual damage yes... but any smart wof place will fail you first time every time because it makes them look better in the review system (looks dodgy if you pass everyone first time, but looks good if you are failing 95%), so leaving a obvious fail is the smartest move, like a bulb etc that doesn't work, or they will fail you on something silly to make up for it like wiper blades
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