spiderwebfx Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Whats your preference and why? It's for the S12. I've currently got a two piece S13 driveshaft to go in it. But because of the Hilux diff I have to change the flange yoke (if that's the right name) to suit. It is also has to be shortened slightly as well. So I've gotta get it modified, and then rebalanced, so I thought about going one piece instead. It'll cost a little more, (not much) but are the benefits worth it? Obviously it means that I only need one driveshaft hoop, and I can eliminate the hanger bearing (which would give me mounts for driveshaft hoop possibly? Depending on rules.) So, thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Is an S12 IRS? Edit - just read the bit about Hilux diffs. How long is the driveshaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 The longer the driveshaft, the lower it's rpm is that it wants to vibrate itself to death at. Hence two piece.A few guys here have had issues with 1 piece shafts doing exactly that, so went to 2 piece in the end.Why are you fitting a hilux diff/what engine are you running? If you're wanting to take your car to the track and go 150+ then two piece is likely the better option. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 2 piece has the advantage of tucking the rear of the shaft under the car more so if you are slammed out then judder bars ain't no thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 as others said, need to figure out max rpm the drive shaft will be doing. so engine rpm, diff ratios, wheel size and max speed. from what i hear they, explode pretty good when they are driven into critical rpm speeds. or just stick with the 2 piece 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I seem to recall another thread about this on here somewhere too. There was even a table of lengths, and death speeds for those lengths. I recall Clint saying it was mostly an issue with cars that run mega low diffs, (High number) where the driveshaft gets it's boogie on hard. Cars like old falcons and valiants ran hugely long tailshafts. Although none had overdrive in those days. So max speed would have probably stayed under 6k. I've been thinking or going one piece on a project I'm about to undertake too. I like to think less moving parts, less to fuck out. But a steet car with a 3.9 diff, and 195/60/15 wont likely see mega top end revs in O/drive anyway. (Just my example) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Is an S12 IRS? Edit - just read the bit about Hilux diffs. How long is the driveshaft? S12's come both IRS and SRA. My project is SRA, my parts car is IRS I haven't actually measured to be honest, just sat the S13 driveshaft in and looked at it. The longer the driveshaft, the lower it's rpm is that it wants to vibrate itself to death at. Hence two piece. A few guys here have had issues with 1 piece shafts doing exactly that, so went to 2 piece in the end. Why are you fitting a hilux diff/what engine are you running? If you're wanting to take your car to the track and go 150+ then two piece is likely the better option. Cheers for that, Hilux diff because 5 stud, LSD and disc brakes (converted to discs before I bought it). It will be a daily driver car, but will likely see the race track once or twice a year also. 2 piece has the advantage of tucking the rear of the shaft under the car more so if you are slammed out then judder bars ain't no thing. I think I'll be more worried about the exhaust then anything. There's bugger all room to tuck that up high in. as others said, need to figure out max rpm the drive shaft will be doing. so engine rpm, diff ratios, wheel size and max speed. from what i hear they, explode pretty good when they are driven into critical rpm speeds. or just stick with the 2 piece S14 SR20DE motor, S14 5 speed box, diff ratio I think is 4.1. 225/45R16 tyres. Probably speed cut at 180kph. I seem to recall another thread about this on here somewhere too. There was even a table of lengths, and death speeds for those lengths. I recall Clint saying it was mostly an issue with cars that run mega low diffs, (High number) where the driveshaft gets it's boogie on hard. Cars like old falcons and valiants ran hugely long tailshafts. Although none had overdrive in those days. So max speed would have probably stayed under 6k. I've been thinking or going one piece on a project I'm about to undertake too. I like to think less moving parts, less to fuck out. But a steet car with a 3.9 diff, and 195/60/15 wont likely see mega top end revs in O/drive anyway. (Just my example) Cheers for that, my thoughts were the same with the "less moving parts, less to fuck out". But if the trade off is a major failure, then I'm not to keen. Thanks for the responses so far, based on what you guys have said so far two piece is the most likely option. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Especially with a driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 If the hanger mount is already there then go 2 piece. It's better in all respects except you need 2 driveshaft loops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 If the hanger mount is already there then go 2 piece. It's better in all respects except you need 2 driveshaft loops. Do the driveshaft hoops have to be bought premade? I know they have certain dimensions and what not, but can I make it myself out of steel plates/lengths/whatever? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 yeah make it yourself. generic ones are awful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Do the driveshaft hoops have to be bought premade? I know they have certain dimensions and what not, but can I make it myself out of steel plates/lengths/whatever? Make them yourself if you want. Premade ones are really good for supplying you with the basic hardware you need, ie a full enclosed hoop, heaps of bolts and a reasonable amount of strap to make them fit. But I highly doubt they would be a "bolt in" into any car that didn't have an RHS chassis made using a string line and square.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Those kits often require just as much work as starting from scratch. They don't seem to come with spring washers either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Sweet, I asked because the last one I saw on Trademe was $180 for one. (Was a looonng time ago) No way was I going to pay that much for some basic steel and nuts and bolts. Looking now you can get two for $112, so it's not as bad. And probably worth it for the $ vs. time to make them myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Those kits often require just as much work as starting from scratch. They don't seem to come with spring washers either. Ah right, maybe I will make them then. Whats the requirements for mounting the driveshaft loops? I see the material requirements but can't find any specifications for washers/reinforcing the floor pan, if there is any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73crownwagon Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I think hoops are 40$ from segedins auto dominion road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 You need 50mm strap x 6mm thick with at least 4x M10 bolts bolted through the floor with 50 x 6mm strap on the other side of the floor as a mounting plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ja1lb8 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Have made few drive shafts up and had few different ones made. 1 and 2 piece for different reasons. Talking to the pro/old guy that made shit loads of them for ever. He showed me the graphs for resonent frequency, when the driveshaft gets it wobble on. Took into account length, diameter of tube and wall thickness. As well as it been balanced correctly and the ujoints needing to be aligned properly. Showed me a carbonfibre dshaft out of a 350z I think? Definatly wasnt carbon for the weight saving. Was heavy as if not heavier then a steel one.wall thickness was about 12mm, used because its much stiffer and the resonant frequeny was much higher. So what I decovered is theres a whole lot of things to take into account when designing a driveshaft but Ive found most times ive just bodged something together its worked anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 theres a whole lot of things to take into account when designing a driveshaft but Ive found most times ive just bodged something together its worked anyway Hahaha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I've rolled with a few home shortened dshafts, and never had one balanced. It adds to the thrill when pulling over 200 clicks. But that's only a bit over 7k at the shaft. And it ain't that long either. I'd quite like to see that chart again, if anyone remembers where it was? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 those generic drive shaft loops are junk. just make your own. have done a couple and end up just using them for the steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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