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anyone ever fabbed up there own bell housing adapter before?


Seedy Al

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Whats this?

I have a small project running round in my head. And it requires me to some how adapt an auto onto an engine that I dont have a trans for.

So was thinking about making an adapter that bolts to the engine and theb the trans bell housing onto that.

Anyone tried this before? Looking for some first hand experience. Tips. Tricks etc. I have a decent idea of how im going to do it....

Cheers chaps

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I would make it in wood first then get someone to laser cut/CNC it in alloy.

The trick would be making it thick enough to fit bolts and threads both ways yet not so thick that it moves the release bearing/torque converter away from the clutch/flexplate.

Didn't MJR make something like this for his EVO powered MX5.

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I'm not sure any bolt on template would be truely accurate enough to gurantee alignment, it wouldn't need to be far out to damage gearbox bearings... (could be wring though)

 

Use the template to get the external and internal profile correct leave the centre in your final laser cut flange (like the cardboard cut-out) then survey and drill /tap the mounting positions ...

 

 

Jig below is to centralise the input shaft so it's not loaded in any direction

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Cardboard template next to the almost finished 10mm steel plate. (cut out the cross brace by this stage)

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P1010925_zps062745f5.jpg
 

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You have to move the converter away unless you make it like 0.5mm thick? any movement away from the box means you engage the pump less/not at all.

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People run these all the time so they can use Chevy pattern boxes on BOP shit. They come with spacers for the Torque Converter which are equal size to whatever plate you use. They are normally 1/8"thick steel

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I'm not sure any bolt on template would be truely accurate enough to gurantee alignment, it wouldn't need to be far out to damage gearbox bearings... (could be wring though)

Pretty sure you have a tiny bit leeway on the centre, there are tonnes of bolt on adapters in the market. Most will use existing dowels to locate it correctly.

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Yeah spence it's probably going to be fine if it's within .2mm of centre, but this is not that easy to measure hence the centralisation of the input shaft and close tolerance locating hole which gets cut off later..

 

heh, no need too space the flywheel back..

Flywheel is from a nissan GTR (Same PCD as the mitsi crank but don't tell anyone) and now has no ring gear on it, the starter engagement is courtesy of a toyota corolla flexi plate.

 

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/ enough of this spam

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I watched one made before I did my trade-my mind exploded with how awesome it was.

Mr VVega was the culprit.

take two bellhousings. One for motor and one for Trans.

give to a machinist and have them chopped in a lathe to the correct lengths and with locating spigots to keep them aligned.

weld the two halfs together.

boom.

Only works if the bellhousings have areas of the correct diameters to allow mating surfaces to spigot together.

Easy if you have a lathe

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Lets just say the motor is hard enough to get parts for, so I don't even have a proper bell housing to start with. Only one hacked up manual conversation that uses ans adapter plate and cut up bell housing. Have considered trying to find an auto that suited the same bell housing so I could use the same adapter plate. But fuck knows what its off....

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I have talked to a friend of mine in some depth about this, all he did was spin up an extended bronze bush for the crank spigot, and bolted a bit of 12mm steel plate onto the block, which he had vertically in an engine stand, then then plonked the gearbox onto it and marked the holes, drilled and tapped and away he went. I think it has been in his car for 10 years now and he hasn't had any trouble.

 

This was to put a w50 behind a turbo 4age.

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