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Looseunits 1983 5efte KP60


Looseunit

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Discussion - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43112-looseunits-1983-5efte-kp60/

 

So after toiling away with my EP82 for many years trying to go quicker and quicker down the strip eventually getting stuck at 12.1 seconds, I finally gave in to KPRs harassment and decided that doing a Kp drag car was the way to go.  Since I had already spent oodles on my 5e which was already 231kw atw on and old g1 v4 link and only 17 psi of boost I was always going to keep that engine and somehow make it work in a north south config.

 

I spotted a kp60 on Trademe and it fitted the bill.  Already had a 4efte in it with w55 box and a spare w55, homologated cage and a pretty tidy looking body.  Looked to be a good base for what i wanted so went and had a look, was happy with it so snapped it up.

 

This is how it looked when i first got it.  Engine bay was rugged but functional, couldnt find any rust anywhere, bonus.

 

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Original plan was to bung the 5e in and build a setup around it, jam in a hilux diff and go racing.  But as with all projects it has kind of gotten out of hand and there is pretty much nothing left of the original setup bar the bellhousing, rollcage and seats.

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First thing I decided/realised was that the engine was way too far forwards and also wasnt aligned properly as you can see in the pic.  I soon found out why it was so far forwards for a couple of reasons.  Dizzy cap was already pretty close to the firewall, that wasnt an issue as I was going to be using coil packs anyway and the sump was pretty much hard up against the crossmember.  The bellhousing would have also been fouling on the steering rack and they had taken a big notch out of the bottom of the bellhousing for it to clear.

 

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So i had to get very creative.  First thing was grabbing a late model ep91 sump from pickapart.  They have a deeper but shorter bowl which was going to help but not solve the problem.  Next was to take a notch out of both the sump and the crossmember.  Worried I may have weakened the crossmember, I welded a 5mm plate across the back of it inbetween the rack mounts.  My engine mounts went through about 3 versions before i was happy with them.  I chopped up the ones that came with the car and tidied up the dodgy stuff on them.  The ones in the pics are the final version.  Basically solid but with a little bit of give in the safari shackle bushes.  Also chopped up and modded the gearbox crossmember while i was at it.

 

Got the engine sitting about 2 inches further back.

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Was a bit scary chopping the sump but got there in the end

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Crossmember notch and plate

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Engine mount to house the shackle bushes

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And engine mounts modded to suit

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Final weldup and paint before going back in

IMG_20140313_074120_zpsl6vc8irr.jpg

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And then it was diff and suspension time, which other than the turbo manifold has been the most time consuming part of the build.  I bought a mid 80's 4wd hilux diff ages ago which is 1405mm overall length which was effectively the same length as the t series that was already in there.

 

Dropped it down to Howat engineering who machined the axles for the s13 rotors and adapted the ae101 calipers on there for me.

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Bought some shiny Techno toy Trailing arms

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Decided that I wanted to use the tein coilvers that came out of the ep82 because they were there pretty much so went about turreting the rear and modifying the ep82 top hats to suit.

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Then just had to sort the mounts for the diff.  Wanted them to be adjustable so that I could dial the car in properly so made all the mounts from scratch.  5 adjustment levels on the bottom and 2 on the top.  Many many hours and many nights in the shed measuring, test fitting, swearing etc before it was all done.

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It bent quite a bit after being welded so will straighten it up sometime before final assembely and setting it all up etc.  had 6mm toe before welding and 25mm after.

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The inlet was trying to have a fight with the booster and if i had tried to add a clutch master in there too....well it really just wasnt going to fit.  So I forked out some dosh and bought a reverse mount willwood pedal box.  With some feedback from Kpr I went for 5/8 brake cylinders and a 3/4 clutch.  I also based my bracket on his design as seemed the easiest/best that I could see.

 

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Have since gotten braided lines all installed from cylinders to bulkhead fittings in an aluminium blanking plate that goes over the existing booster hole in the firewall.  Tidies it all up and is very easy to just run braided lines to the front, rear and clutch slave.  Have also got a line lock to go in the rear brake line but will need to wait for inlet to be finished so I can figure out where to mount it.

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Since because drag car, a fuel cell setup was called for.  Went for a Jaz 20L fuel cell mounted in the spare tyre well and a bosch 044 pump mounted underneath the car.  The previous owner/s had run a new 8mm fuel line through the car so I have retained this setup for now along with the 6mm OE feed retained as the return.  The return will get replaced if it it found to be a restriction.  Although it is the same size setup as in the ep82 and that didnt seem to have any fueling issues so may end up being ok.

 

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I have to add, good quality braided line and fittings cost a fortune, but i have been warned off the cheap trademe stuff by more than one person.

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The front brakes needed downsizing.  It came with some random rotors, were told the were bmw and nissan 4 pots.  They looked huge and rediculous and needed 25mm spacers and some angle grinder treatment to the calipers by the looks just to fit some wheels on it.  Since I only really need to stop once ive down sized it to a more simple street setup.  Some corona calipers and some new adapters to make them fit.  Was able to remove the spacers and the wheels fit alot better in the guards.

 

yuck!

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Much better

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Made a sweet engine and gearbox stand with the leftover angle steel from the pedal box bracket as i could find any offcuts and had to buy 6m of the stuff.  But it has been so handy for making up the slave cylinder mount and oil return and feed etc.  Also test fitting the flywheel and clutch was a breeze.

 

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Barry made me a flywheel and sorted me out a twin plate clutch.  So much bling!

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Slave cylinder mount, way overkill but i dont want that thing flexing.  Using a ep82 slave as im trying to keep some of the bits the same across the 2 cars the same.

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Oil return welded onto sump and braided oil drain.

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And thats about where Im up to at the moment.  Still got quite a way to go but can start to see the light at the end of the tunnel.  Hope to get it finished in the next 2-3 months and then get it tuned etc.  Then ill hope to get it to some sort of test day to get used to driving the thing.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Put the engine back in so I can test fit everything i had made and it all fits!  Then went about finishing the intercooler piping and then dropped the piping off to be welded up and also dropped the rocker cover off as well to have the -10 fittings welded on for the breathers.

 

Ill call the engine bay stuff about 90% finished now.  Just gotta mount the line lock and do the brake and clutch lines and mount the throttle cable.  Also make up the braided lines for the breathers.

 

IMG_20140620_165111_zpso6ygquwa.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Been a while since I last updated, but have been pottering away at this thing.  Had a bit of a setback when the engine went in for a refresh, long story short, I need new pistons and they are being custom made by CP.  They shouldnt be too much longer however but have been getting some other stuff done in the meantime so that the engine can be chucked straight back in when i get it back.

 

Tidied up engine bay, welded up the factory holes in the firewall and painted it.  Very time consuming job.  Whole car will eventually be this colour.

 

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Finally purchased a link.  A G4+ Storm.  Drew up some rough diagrams and started on the huge task of wiring the car up from scratch.  Have been working on this for a couple weeks but heres some pics of the progress.

 

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The setup is very drag rule book specific.  Kill switch in the back bumper which cuts of power and also the main relay and alternator switch so that the car will shut off when the kill switch is turned off.

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All the in car wiring is now pretty much done so it was time to start on the engine bay side of things.  I have my junk old buggered 4efte sitting in the shed so am using that to dummy stuff up.  I spaced the coils up 20mm to allow for the extra height of the 5e block. Spent all day working on it today and pretty much finished the charge circuit side of things.  Next is the link loom and a few small things and the wiring will pretty much be done.

 

Todays efforts

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

All the wiring is pretty much done now, got the odd sensor to hook up but need to wait until I get the engine back and in place to finish those off.  Which should be next week by the sounds!  The whole thing turned into a nightmare, multiple errors during the original build, the worst of which being the head, when machined was machined 1mm on the piss length ways meaning I had around 10:1 at one end and 9:1 at the other end.  With all the problems found and now hopefully fixed, its a suprise the engine even ran, let alone made 231kw.

 

Not hugely exciting, but radiator now has a fan mounted on it.

 

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Slightly more exciting is the line lock is now mounted and plumbed up.  Will be able to use this in the burnout and also as a way to stop the car rolling forward when I stage.

 

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  • 2 months later...
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Car went on the dyno yesterday!  And it survived.  Car tuned up well with no dramas.  As i suspected, the turbo is not really up the task, pretty old tech t04b.  Its completely maxed out at 18 psi.  The refreshed motor with the issues sorted now brings boost on about 700rpm sooner than before and has a much fatter powerband, and sounds way more crisp.  Should be way easier to drive, and keep it on song down the strip.  Limiter is set at 8000rpm so it doesnt need to rev out quite as hard as it did before.  Power figures were 234hp at wastegate boost which is 11 psi, 264hp at 15 psi and 281hp at 18 psi.  Not really going to try and compare it to previous dyno figures as it was previously run up on dynapak hub dynos.

 

Really happy with Gareth at Pulse performance, knew was he was doing and overall was very good to deal with.

 

Here is one of the dyno run pulls. Car is crazy loud, video doesnt really do it justice.

 

 

Dyno Sheet

 

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